最后的阿拉斯加（2015）

The Last Alaskans S04E07

Part 3 Nov. 4, 2022, 9:35 a.m.

crazy. I didn't think I was gonna find it.
在这一点上没有什么可兴奋的，
I mean, it's nothing to be excited about at this point,
因为我可能会马上再次失去它，但是...
'cause I'll just probably lose it again right away, but...
谁知道？
who knows?
我会尽量遵循它
I'll try and follow it as far as I can.
我知道我来到这里有一丝希望
I know I got a little glimmer of hope going here
也许它不会那么糟糕
that maybe it isn't gonna be so bad.
只是一点点希望
just a little bit of hope.
只是用雪垫住帐篷的两边--
just banking the sides of the tent with snow --
把所有的冷空气都封住
seal all the cold air out.
这有点像你家的裂缝
It's kind of like the chinking in your house.
不希望地板和墙壁之间有一堆缝隙
Don't want a bunch of gaps between the floor and the walls.
我离鲍勃·哈特的登山口只有几英里
I'm a couple miles from Bob Harte's trailheads.
我将在这个季节的大部分时间，待在这个帐篷里
I'll be based out of this tent the majority of the season
我实际上是在诱捕
that I'm actually trapping.
现在是 -25以下，-30以下
It's 25 below, 30 below right now.
这些帐篷的地板不会超过冰点，
and floor of these tents don't get much above freezing,
所以我把雪压实，然后放下一床云杉树枝
so I compact the snow and then put a bed of spruce boughs down.
有更多的支持性处理墙帐篷营地
There's a lot more logistics dealing with a wall-tent camp.
一个好的柴火炉什么都有
a good wood stove has everything to do
你在墙上的帐篷里有多舒服
with how comfortable you are in a wall tent.
帐篷显然没有隔热，所以...
tent's obviously not insulated, so...
这火一灭，
soon as this fire goes out,
很快就可以达到外面的温度
It doesn't take long to reach the temperature it is outside.
这些是驯鹿皮
these are caribou hides.
它们没有鞣革
They're not tanned.
它们只是风干，捕兽者干燥
They're just air-dried, trapper-dried.
这是我们一直用于墙帐篷营地的东西
It's what we always used for our wall-tent camps.
它们很轻而且超级温暖，所以我用它们作为床垫
They're light and super warm, so I use these as bed mats.
这是一年中的黑暗时期
It's a dark time of year.
黑暗而寒冷
dark and cold.
现在是下午1:00左右
It's about 1:00 in the afternoon.
太阳几乎没有从地平线升起，
sun barely comes above the horizon,
很快，它就不会了
and pretty soon, it won't.
这能达到这样的光线
You know, this is about as light as it gets.
它只保持这样大约四个小时
and it only stays like this about four hours.
但如果你打算以陷阱为生，
but if you're gonna make your living trapping,
你习惯了黑暗
You get used to the dark.
我很想看看能不能找到陷阱线
I'm anxious to see if I can find the trapline.
天哪
golly.
我确实看到了驼鹿，但它在苔原上
I see moose for sure, but it's out in that tundra.
很难到达那里
It's pretty hard to get to there.
好吧，看看我们能不能过去
Well, see if we can go over there.
我没有在秋天打驼鹿，因为我在帮助科林
I didn't hunt moose in the fall because I was helping Krin.
所以我决定在这个冬季猎杀我们的驼鹿
so then I decided to hunt our moose during this winter season.
这很好，因为我可以使用雪橇机
It's good because I can use a snow machine.
用雪橇机，我可以杀死一头驼鹿
with a snow machine, I can kill a moose
20英里外，把它带回木屋
20 miles away and bring it back to the cabin.
就在小径上
right there is the track.
小径就这样过去了
the trail goes over that way.
这只驼鹿，它过河了
This moose, he crossed the river.
它大约一个小时前来过
He came by maybe hour ago or so.
那是薄冰
That's thin ice.
你不想在这里突破，
You don't want to break through here,
因为它很深
'cause it's deep.
去检查那块冰，这样我就可以越过它
gonna check that ice so I can cross it.
不想沉没机器
Don't want to sink the machine
然后被吸进冰里然后死去
and get sucked under the ice and die.
某些河流比其他河流更糟糕
certain rivers are worse than other rivers
当结冰时
When it comes to ice formation.
一旦在一两周内降到 -40、-50度以下，
once it gets like 40, 50 below over a week or two,
那么它是相当不错的
then it's pretty good.
但在初冬，这可能真的很棘手，
but early in the winter, it can be really tricky,
在这里穿过冰
You know, crossing the ice here.
大部分河流都结冰了，
the vast majority of the river is frozen,
但是它下面有水--在冰下面
but there's water running under it -under the ice.
如果你打破了冰
If you broke through the ice
因为水流，你会被吸进了冰里，
and you got sucked under that ice because of the current,
他们可能永远找不到你的尸体
They'll probably never find your body.
它很薄
It's thin.
只需要加快速度
just gonna have to go fast speeds.
速度是唯一让我无法突破的东西
the speed is the only thing that keeps me from breaking through.
如果引擎在一个坏的地方退出，我们会进去
If the engine quits in a bad spot, we're gonna go in.
不是开玩笑
not a joke.
在雪橇机里，重量都是分布的
in a snow machine, the weight's all distributed
而不是像脚印一样，
instead of like in a footprint,
这都是一个点
where it's all one spot, you know.
只是得快些
just gonna have to go fast.
所以，抓住
so, just hold on.
这只驼鹿，它过河了
This moose, he crossed the river.
只是得快些
just gonna have to go fast.
速度是唯一让我无法突破的东西
speed is the only thing that keeps me from breaking through.
所以，抓住
so, just hold on.
那不是好冰，但我-我做到了
that is not good ice, but i-I made it.
我不太喜欢这样做--
I don't like to do that a lot --
只是偶尔--但这里就是这样
just once in a while -- but that's the way it is here.
有时，你必须，
sometimes, you got to, you know.
必须得到那只驼鹿
got to get that moose.
来吧你能行的
come on. you can do it.
你可以咬
You can bite.
我能感觉到它们在那里
I could feel them down there.
黑莫出去打驼鹿了
Heimo's out hunting moose.
我们需要肉过冬
We need meat for the winter.
我们有一些肉，但我们需要的比我们拥有的要多得多
We got some meat, but we need a lot more than what we have.
希望，他会得到一头
hopefully, he'll get one.
我正在帮忙 - 得到河鳟
I am helping out -- getting grayling.
你看到了吗？！
You see that?!
好的
good.
它们咬得不很紧
They don't bite hard.
对不起，伙计
sorry, buddy.
那是河鳟
That's the -the grayling.
我只是希望我们能得到更多，因为我们需要四五条鱼
I just hope we get more 'cause we need four or five fish.
我喜欢捕鱼，尤其是冰捕
I love fishing, especially ice fishing.
冬天，这里真的很安静
in wintertime, out here, it's really quiet.
它清空了我的脑海
It clears my mind.
有一个
there goes one.
它在下面来吧
He's down there. come on.
你可以咬
You can bite.
我们得到了另一个
We got another one.
是的
yeah.
我喜欢在捕鱼时，想起我的家人
I like to think about my family when I'm fishing.
当我在萨翁加长大时，我的爸爸妈妈--
When I was growing up in Savoonga, my mom and dad --
当他们像这样去捕鱼时，他们总是说，
When they go fishing like this, they always say,
“唱给他们听，你就会抓到一些”
"sing to 'em and you'll catch some."
我们只是编曲
We'd just make up songs
我们根本不知道有什么不同
and we didn't know any different at all.
当我们得到它时，就像圣诞节一样
When we get it, it's like christmas.
啊啊啊
Ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah.
这就是河鳟的样子
That's how a grayling looks.
哎呀可怜的家伙
oops. poor guy.
今晚我们要煮鱼
We're gonna cook fish tonight.
雪鞋是最可靠的出行方式，
snowshoes are the most reliable means of travel,
但它低于-40度，所以它们很僵硬
but it's 40 below, so they're stiff.
我要寻找鲍勃的小径
I'm gonna look for Bob's trails.
它在哪里，不是很乐观
not positive where it is,
所以会有一点点刷过去，
so there'll be a little bit of brush whacking,
我敢肯定，一路走来
I'm sure, along the way.
鲍勃经常谈论现代诱捕技术有多好
Bob always talked about how good the modern trapping
在这个营地，
was at this camp,
所以对我来说，作为一个捕手，这是一个很大的吸引力
so for me, as a trapper, that was a pretty big appeal.
而且，去一个新的地区有很大的吸引力