最后的阿拉斯加（2015）

北极国家野生动物保护区是美国最大的受保护荒野
北极保护区面♥积♥大致等同于
The arctic refuge is roughly the size
南卡罗来纳州
of the state of South Carolina.
你走了数百、数千英里
You go for hundreds, thousands of miles
没有道路--什么都没有
without roads -- nothing.
1980 年，美国政♥府♥禁止在保护区进行新的人类占领 只剩有七张木屋许可证
我们的许可证，会在我们最后一个孩子去世之前到期
our permits only go up until the death of our last child.
100年内，将没有人
within 100 years, there's gonna be nobody.
我们是最后一个
We are the last.
木屋的位置被隐藏，以保护这些家庭的隐私
这可能是你能过的最自♥由♥的生活
This is probably the most free life you could live.
这是一次冒险
This is an adventure.
有些喜悦
This is joy.
你与自然息息相关 自然指引你的道路
You're bound to nature. nature directs your path.
这就是人类 300 万年来的样子
I mean, that's the way man has been for 3 million years.
在我们生活的土地上，你是食物链的一部分，
in the land we live in, you are part of the food chain,
你和这里的所有动物唯一的压力是
and the only pressure you and all the animals here have is,
让自己活下去
You know, keeping yourself alive.
这里有熊的踪迹
Here's a bear track.
你可以看到他的垫子和脚趾
You can see his pad right there and his cla -- his toes.
所以，现在我们知道这里有一只熊
so, now we know there's a bear hanging around here.
现在，我正在寻找驯鹿，
right now, I'm hunting for caribou,
而且，很明显，这里也有一只熊
and, uh, obviously, a bear's up here too.
这里是他的家，也是我的家，
It's just as much his home as it is mine,
所以我们俩住在一起
So we both live here together.
对我们来说，得到这只驯鹿，非常重要
for us to get this caribou, very important.
驯鹿正处于迁徙的尾声
caribou are at their tail end of the migration.
直到明年春天才会再来
There's not going to be any until next spring.
我在这里已经40年了，
I've been here 40 years,
所以你应很清楚，如果驯鹿来了，
So you know exactly, if the caribou come,
什么地方最适合他们通过
What place is the best for them to come through.
成为一名优秀的猎人真的很重要
It's really important to be a good hunter out here
因为如果你不优秀，
because if you're not,
你将如何养活自己和家人？
How are you going to provide for yourself and your family?
我们所有的女儿都出生在这里，而且，
all of our daughters were born out here, and, you know,
他们一直和我一起打猎，
They came hunting with me all the time,
我喜欢它的每一秒
and I loved every second of it.
早在 1985 年，我的继女梅琳达和我，
back in 1985, my stepdaughter, Melinda, and me,
我们走到这里，我们进入了这里的云层模糊带
We walked up here, and we got into the clouds up here.
突然间，云开了
all of a sudden, the clouds opened up
我们周围有成千上万的驯鹿，
and we had thousands of caribou all around us,
我们就像这样
and we were like, like this.
突然之间，它就这样关闭了
and all of a sudden, it just closed back in like this.
就像...
and it was like...
“他们在哪里？”
"where are they?"
而今天，晴空万里，没有驯鹿
and today, clear, blue sky and no caribou.
我们尝试寻找了这座山，但它没有
I mean, We tried the mountain, and it didn't produce.
所以，如果我今天没有驯鹿，
so, if I don't get a caribou today,
我会继续前进
I'll just keep going and going.
你还能做什么？
What else can you do?
嗯，来吧
mm, come on.
是的，当我今年第一次来到这里时，
yeah, when I got here first time this year,
门大开着
the door was wide open.
木屋里的每一扇窗户都被打开了
every window in the cabin was gone through.
一只灰熊穿过窗户，破坏了木屋
A grizzly went through the windows, wrecking the cabin.
灯坏了，炉灶被撞坏，
the lamps were broken. stoves were knocked apart,
两年的干粮满地都是
two years' worth of dried food was all over the floor.
这是我 40 年来的第二次闯入，
This is the second break-in I've had in 40 years,
所以这并不常见，但这是最糟糕的
So It's not common, but this one was the worst.
后面的房♥间还不干净
the back room isn't clean yet.
这曾经是一扇门
This used to be a door.
哦，天哪，这是我的业余无线电
oh, geez, there's my ham radio.
好神
good god.
我这里有一袋东西
I've got a bag of something here.
哦，一袋豆子 好的
oh, a bag of beans. good.
他没有拿走一切
He didn't get everything.
他进进出出，至少三遍
He came in and out, I don't know, at least three times
因为他出去了三个窗户
because there's three windows he went out.
我为我的三个孩子建造了这间卧室
I built this bedroom for my three kids.
我这里有一张双层床，这里有一张床
I had a bunk bed here and a bed right here.
那是我一生中最美好的时光之一，
It was one of the best times in my life,
带着孩子和妻子在这里
with the kids and the wife out here.
三四年，
three or four years,
然后我的妻子不想再出来了，
and then my wife didn't want to come out again,
这就是终结的开始
and that was the beginning of the end.
很遗憾，但这是这里生活的一部分--
It's a shame, but that's part of the life up here --
熊
bears.
这只熊，他会回来的
This bear, He'll be back.
保证他会来
guaranteed He'll be in.
他被邀请了
He's invited.
他会邀请自己，我们会谈谈
He'll invite himself, and we're gonna have a talk.
女王来了
Here comes the queen.
没有道路 这里不能访问
There's no trails. there's no access out here.
它是你能到达的最遥远的地方
I mean, It's about as remote as you can get.
你的所有乘客都热切地想离机吗？
are all your passengers that eager to get out?
一年四季都住在树林里，是的，那太理想了
living in the woods year 'round, yeah, that'd be ideal.
但是，现实
but, you know, reality
甚至住在树林里，
and even in living in the woods, you know,
这样做需要钱
It takes money to do that.
在这里，我明白了
Here, I got it.
所以，我们夏天在城里工作
so, We spend the summer in town working.
保重，桑迪
take care, Sandy.
你也是，雷 有一个美好的冬天
You too, Ray. have a good winter.
那是本季节的最后一架飞机
That's the last plane for the season.
直到我们在即将到来的二月春天被接走，
until we get picked up in this coming spring in february,
那将是我们看到的最后一架飞机
That'll be the last plane we see.
女孩们，她们有很多
the girls, they've pretty much
和我们一起在树林里长大
grown up out in the woods with us.
他们长大了
I mean, they were raised
他们从出生就参与其中
and they've been part of that from birth.
哦，不错
ooh, nice.
走开，本尼 来吧，伙计
go away, Benny. come on, man.
嘿，取来
Hey, fetch.
本尼 好孩子 继续
Benny. good boy. good boy. go on.
哦，看看他
aw, look at him.
他们的社交生活可能不是常态
I mean, their social life wasn't probably the norm
对于成长中的孩子，但这是他们的生活
for kids growing up, but It's their life.
这是他们所知道的，所以他们喜欢树林
It's what they know, and so they enjoy the woods.
他们喜欢树林
They love the woods.
雷不太关心城镇，
Ray doesn't care for town too much,
所以我通常做镇上的事情
So I usually do the town things.
然后，当我们在这里时，雷会很好地照顾我们
and then, when we're out here, Ray takes good care of us.
本季节的第一部分，
first part of the season,
你非常关注动物群体和标志
You're pretty focused on animal populations and sign.
看看有多少熊和驼鹿经过
see how many bears and moose are passing through.
你会担心，动物群体是否良好，
You're worried if the game population looks good.
大约三年前发生了一场火灾
There was a fire about three years ago.
渐渐产生，它的小部分烧到了我们的区域
crept in, little fingers of it burned into our area.
只是一团缓慢的、蠕动的、阴燃的火焰
just a slow, creeping, smoldering fire.
火灾的直接影响，它几乎是一个死区
the immediate effect of a fire, It's pretty much a dead zone.
它破坏了任何东西的栖息地
It destroys habitat for anything.
所以，我们去年没有出来
so, we didn't come out last year.
但随后，树木将开始长大
but then, the trees will start growing up.
它会重新开始，这就是你在这里看到的
It'll start all over again, which is what you see here.
生命的轮回，就是这样
the circle of life, that's it.
获得驼鹿有点压力
There's a bit of pressure to get a moose
因为驼鹿够大
because moose are big enough
驼鹿身上的可食用肉够吃一年
That there's enough edible meat on a moose to last a year.
狩猎，不是，
hunting, It's not, you know,
对动物的追逐或猎杀，让我快乐
the pursuit or the killing of the game that makes me happy.
它只是给你一个宽泛的视角
It just gives you a perspective