纽约客再现（2015）

The New Yorker Presents S01E05

Part 1 Sept. 1, 2020, 10:14 a.m.

美食特辑
放点这个
There's the...
哈莱姆的炸鸡大王
现在很多住在附近的人都负担不起了
A lot of the people in the neighborhood can't afford it now,
所以很多人都搬走了
so a lot of them are moving out.
主厨/店主
所以很多人都搬走了
so a lot of them are moving out.
主厨/店主
大部分的房♥子都建成合作公♥寓♥或者高级公♥寓♥
Most of the houses is going co-op or going condos.
他们改变了这个社区以前不是这样的
They changed the neighborhood. It wasn't like that before.
我在哈莱姆区住了50年了
I've been in Harlem 50 years,
在这家餐馆就待了20年
20 years in this restaurant.
所有在这地区的小孩
All the kids you see on that corner,
我都是看着他们长大的
I watched them grow up from 2 years old.
你得弄清楚
You got to figure I do
我一天大概做1500块鸡块
about 1,500 pieces of chicken a day.
这只是周一和周二的量
That's, like, Monday and Tuesday.
在周末或许大概3000块吧
And then on the weekend, I do, like, 3.000, maybe.
我在北卡罗来纳州长大的
I grew up in North Carolina,
我有一个大家庭十二个兄弟和八个姐妹
and I have a large family of 12 brothers and eight sisters.
我们自己养鸡自己种菜还有所有东西
We grew our own chickens, our own vegetables and everything.
我从没去任何学校学习如何做菜
I never went to no school to learn how to cook.
我是从我母亲那里学来的
I learned it all from my mother.
调味料吗这个我不能告诉你
The seasonings? I can't tell you that.
我不能把这秘方告诉你
I can't give you that secret.
我母亲告诉我如果我要开餐厅
My mother, she told me if I ever opened up a restaurant,
不要用油炸锅始终得用平底锅煎炸你的鸡肉
do not use deep fryer. Always pan fry your chicken.
所以我回家搬来了我的大平底锅
And so I came back down south to get my big frying pan.
我一锅至少能煎炸25块鸡肉
I can fry at least 25 pieces of chicken in it.
油炸很简单但用平底锅炸就没那么容易了
Deep fry is easy, but pan fry is not easy.
你要花更多心机在平底锅上
You put more love into a... A pan...
用平底锅炸鸡你得待在那看着
Pan fried chicken because you got to stay there with it.
你懂的你必须时不时翻一下它煎熟它
You know, you got to continue to turn it and cook it
掌握好出锅的时间
and make it come out right.
美国南方黑人的传统食物，如小肠、玉米面包等
哈莱姆区没多少黑人传统食物的餐厅了
There's not a lot of what we call soul food places left
还有很多人喜欢吃这种食物
in Harlem. And there's a lot of people looking for soul food.
-你今天怎么样 -很好你想要点什么
- How are you today? - Real good. What would you like?
嘿 Cookie
Hey, Cookie.
-嘿查尔斯 -你最喜欢的菜式是什么
- Hey, Charles. - What's your favorite?
所有都爱
Everything.
特别是这些炸鸡
Especially the fried chicken,
还有烧烤鸡火鸡翅
the barbecued chicken, the turkey wings,
羽衣甘蓝叶豆角还有番薯
the collard greens, the string beans, and, can I say, the yams.
如果你还没去过查尔斯餐厅
If you have not been to Charlie's,
你压根没吃到真正的鸡肉
you just really haven't had any chicken.
-照顾好自己 -好的亲爱的
- Take care. - All right, baby.
奶酪通心粉烤红薯
Macaroni and cheese, candied yams,
羽衣甘蓝叶哇
collard greens. Whoo!
让你吃到妈妈的味道如果你差几毛钱
Makes you smack your mama. If you're a couple of cents short,
查尔斯也会确保你有得吃
Charlie makes sure you eat. Yeah.
他是好人在这社区住了很久了
He's a good guy. Been in the neighborhood for years.
我们去任何地方大家都认识他
We can go anyplace, and a lot of people know him.
这是查尔斯
"There's Charles!"
他煮的东西像我妈妈做的
He cooks just like my mother.
所有大餐厅都跑到哈莱姆区了
All the big restaurants is coming to Harlem now.
他们或许晚上九点就关门
They might close at 9:00.
我凌晨四五点才关门
I close at 4 or 5:00 in the morning.
晚上九点后停止
供应儿童套餐
五年前我退休了
Five years ago I retired.
但我没觉得我真的退休了
But I don't feel like I retired.
我一天大概工作十八个小时
I work, like, 18 hours a day.
我从小就认真工作
I grew up working hard.
我爱它
I love it.
如果客人高兴我也开心
If the customers are happy, that make me happy.
南方风味
炸鸡
情侣的第一次六人晚宴
一对情侣里总是有一个迟到的人
一对间歇性分分合合的情侣
一个单身朋友
一个女主人极力证明她新男朋友是和她认真交往的
30分都不是6:30的意思了吗
30 not even mean 6:30 anymore?
难道7就是7:30吗
Does it mean 7, 7:30?
-不是 -你需要什么吗
- No. - Do you need anything?
藏红花
Saffron.
搅匀干的原料
我们在圣塔芭芭拉叫的出租车
It's a cab we picked up in Santa Barbara.
你们和解了吗
You ever make it up there?
我把车停到两个街口外可以么
I parked two blocks away. Is that okay?
我无法理解那些路标
I couldn't understand the street signs.
他们有意这么做的
They do that deliberately.
这就是市政♥府♥的挣钱法子
That's how the city makes money.
她来自西部
She's coming from the West Side...
-苏珊 -我搞定
- Susan. - I got it.
嗨我们来晚了保罗非要去他心水的那家红酒店
Hi. We're late. Paul insisted on going to his wine shop
证明下店铺还开门惊喜不人家就没开
to prove that it was still open. Surprise. It was not.
如果她不是花了十分钟找她的包包
It would have been if she
那店还会开门的
hadn't taken ten minutes to find her purse.
加点香料尝尝
这社区非常酷
This neighborhood is really cool.
嗯你可以走着去买♥♥咖啡
Yeah, you can walk to get coffee.
-我知道超赞的 -超真实超多元化的
- I know. It's fantastic. - So authentic, so diverse.
那位头顶被开花的女人
That woman who got shot in the head,
就是发生在一个街区外好不
that was just a block away, right?
就像...大概两三个街口
It was, like... It was, like, two or three blocks.
从烤箱中拿出来放凉
-太好吃了 -我爱卤汁
- It's delicious. - I love the marinade.
-从没见过像这样的东西 -噢这超级简单的
- Never seen anything like it. - Oh, no, it's super-simple.
就是欧芹和醋
It's just parsley and vinegar,
牛至百里香五香粉
oregano, thyme, allspice,
大蒜
garlic...
橄榄油
olive oil,
青柠汁
lime juice,
青柠皮
lime zest,
柠檬皮还有生姜
lemon rind, and, uh, ginger.
嗯
Yeah.
我觉得我们要给苏珊留一点
I feel like we should save some for Susan.
不加酱汁直接烤
我们爱盛夏的欧洲
We love Europe in the summer.
我们在马略卡岛上待了一个月
We spent a month in Majorca.
我们在伊比沙岛有朋友
We have friends in Ibiza.
我们花了一个暑假在那为动物们做义工
We spent our summer volunteering with animals...
-为了动物 -我们大多数时间都浸在水里了
- Uh, for animals. - We spend most of ours on the water.
嗯就玩帆船和跳伞
Yeah, just sailing and parasailing.
搅拌至起泡
从历史观点上说一夫一妻制也是另一种
Monogamy was historically another way
男人控制女人的方式这是事实
for men to exert their control over women. Fact.
它同时哄骗我们去认为
Uh, it also deludes us into thinking
我们注定只能上一个人
that we're meant to fuck just one person.
保罗谢啦真是个成年人说的话
Thank you for that, Paul. That was very adult.
-不完全是我的观点 -是我的观点看看露丝
- Not exactly my point. - It's my point. Look at Ruth.
她是美女非常迷人身材又好
She's a beautiful woman, very attractive, great body.
她不像我们她不想被任何人拥有
She's not like us. She doesn't want to be owned.
她不需要婚姻她也不随大流
She doesn't need marriage. She doesn't subscribe
走异性恋路线
to hetero normative convention.
嗯
Yay.
说得好保罗说得好
Bravo, Paul, bravo.
你们知道保罗是狗屁学硕士吗
Did you know that Paul got his Masters in bullshit?
苏珊说很抱歉她不能来了
Susan's sorry. She can't come.
小火慢炖
我们在停车场碰到的
We meet in a parking lot.
她邀请我过去她还没请我喝一杯
She invites me over. She doesn't offer me a drink.
她就直接对我动手动脚了
Her hand is up my skirt right away,
还有只狗狗一只非常老的狗
and there's a dog, a very old dog.
公的狗还是母的呢
Was it a girl dog or a boy dog?
我不知道就是那种
I don't know. It was one of those kind that has,
像有呼吸困难症的
like, a hard time breathing,
-你懂的就像 -一只哈巴狗
- you know, like... - A pug.