最后的阿拉斯加（2015）

今天是日出的第一天
Today is the first day of sunrise.
一年中的第一个日出是一种美妙的感觉
the first sunrise of the year is a wonderful feeling.
越来越亮了--你看到了吗？
It's getting brighter -- you see that?
我觉得很幸运，我们能在这里看到这个
I feel like I'm lucky that we're out here to see this.
如果我能活到 80 岁，而且我快 60 岁了，
If I live to 80, and I'm almost 60,
我还有20岁这样的，就是这样
I got 20 more of these, and that's it.
就是这样，
That's all, you know?
你不想把每一刻都视为理所当然
You don't want to take every moment for granted.
我只想尽我所能享受它，
I just want to enjoy it while I can,
所以它就在这里--太阳
and so here it is -- the sun.
北极地区野生动物保护区是美国最大的受保护荒野
北极保护区的面♥积♥大致等同于如同--
the arctic refuge is roughly the size
南卡罗来纳州
of the state of South Carolina.
你走了数百、数千英里
You go for hundreds, thousands of miles
没有道路--什么都没有
without roads -- nothing.
1980 年，美国政♥府♥禁止在保护区进行新的人类占领
只剩有 七张木屋许可证
我们的许可证只会到期
our permits only go up
直到我们最后一个孩子故去
until the death of our last child.
100年内，将没有人
within 100 years, there's gonna be nobody.
我们是最后一个
We are the last.
木屋的位置被隐藏，以保护这些家庭的隐私
像这样在北极，这是为数不多的地方之一
up in the arctic like this, this is one of the few places
一个人可以这样生活--这样的生活方式
That a person can live like this -- this kind of lifestyle.
你看着星星，
You look at the stars,
你看你有多渺小
and you see how small you are
和你在哪里
and where you are.
我爱孤独
I love the solitude.
这是家
This is home.
它给了我生命
It gives me life.
我见过你从未见过的东西
I've seen stuff that you never see.
这种生活方式--我希望它永远不会消失，
This lifestyle -- I hope it never gets extinct,
但它接近路的尽头
but it's close to the end of the road.
这些日子越来越多，
more and more these days,
人们退出这种生活，
people just aren't doing this kind of thing,
如果每个人都放弃它，它就会消失
and if everybody gives it up, it's just gonna go away.
50-以下，还有一点点风，
50-below, and there's a little tiny of bit of a wind, you know,
所以在狂野以外，
so it's -- out in the open,
寒风凛冽，可能
the windchill is pretty brutal, probably.
在这样的天气里，
in this kind of weather,
我真的不能出去检查陷阱
I can't really go out checking traps.
我不能做什么
I can't do stuff.
我不能下到另一间木屋
I can't go down to the other cabin.
一切都很难
It's hard on everything.
这对我来说很难 在雪橇机上也很难
It's hard on me. it's hard on the machine.
而且，而且总是有少量的风险，
and, you know, and there's always a slight risk of,
受伤和冻死
You know, of getting hurt and freezing to death.
现在，我们每年都会搬进三个木屋，
Right now, we have three cabins that we move to every year,
这样我们就可以轮换捕集陷阱的压力
and that way we rotate the trapping pressure
在该地区，以便动物可以回来
in the area so the animals can come back.
我们的一间木屋被淹了很多次，
one of our cabins flooded so many times,
里面有很多霉菌，你甚至无法呼吸，
There's so much mold in there, you can't even breathe in there,
这是不适合居住的
and it's unlivable.
它有毒，所以我们必须建造一个新的
It's toxic, so we have to build a new one.
希望它会暖和起来
hopefully it'll warm up
所以我可以到那个木屋的地方
so I can get down to that cabin site
并在那里做一些工作
and do some work there.
看到那里的死鼩鼱了吗？
see that dead shrew there?
它冻在了行走的道路上
It froze in its tracks is what it did.
这太残酷了--这个温度
I mean, it's pretty brutal -- this temperature.
我在他们出来的地方见过很多
I've seen this quite a bit where they come out
他们试图穿过小路，
and they try to cross the trail,
但 50-度会杀了他们
but the 50-below will kill them
在他们进入雪地之前
before they get down into the snow.
这只地鼠的遭遇和我一样
What happened to this shrew would be the same as me
脱掉我所有的衣服，试着走路
taking off all my clothes and trying to walk
这里有几百码
a couple hundred yards here.
你做不到 你就是做不到
You couldn't do it. you just couldn't do it.
寒冷只会杀了你
I mean, it would just kill you.
这些只是向你展示了北极的残酷程度
It just shows you how brutal the arctic can be
对动物，对人也是如此
to animals and man, too.
我有东西要给你看
Here I got something to show you.
“很高兴来到这里，门在哪里？
"good to be here, where's the door?
Twitch，91 年 9 月 4 日”
Twitch, 9/4/91."
那是我的继子
That's my stepson.
我们刚从北极圈乘船到达这里
We just arrived here by boat from circle.
没有门
There was no door.
熊钻进木屋，把它扯下来
the bear got into the cabin and ripped it off
并破坏了整个地方
and wrecked the whole place.
这些是我想保留的语录
those are quotes I want to keep.
我放下了好的，这样我就可以记住它们
the good ones I put down so I can remember them.
“爸爸，我心里有很多你
"dad, you know, I have a lot of you in me.
塔利西亚，8/93”
Talicia, 8/93."
她大约10岁，
She was about 10 years old,
说起来很可爱，
and that was a cute thing to say,
所以我也不得不把它写下来
so I had to write that down, too.
这间木屋就是我的生活
This cabin's my life.
这些是我想永远记住的笔记--
those are notes that I want to always remember --
这里发生的事情
things that happened here.
我在这里已经 40 年了
I've been here 40 years.
我在家
I'm home.
这是我的家
This is my home.
这是女儿科林的“希尔顿大酒店”
This is the Hilton on the Coleen.
该州一角最好的木屋--
the best cabin at this corner of the state --
我不知道有更好的木屋
I don't know of a better cabin.
我建造了整个东西
and I built the whole thing.
但你想知道你是否在正确的地方
but you wonder if you're in the right place
做正确的事
doing the right thing.
这个冬天现在弄得有点可怜
This winter's pathetic right now.
动物都走了
the animals are all gone.
这里什么都没有
There's nothing here.
我只看到一只狐狸
all I saw was one fox.
自从我来到这里以来，唯一的动物
since I been here, the only animal
除了松鸡和松鼠之外，还有一只狐狸
besides the grouse and squirrels was a fox.
饥饿的地区
hungry country.
我不知道我是否可以做更长的时间
I don't know if I can do this much longer.
所以，我们现在一直在路上工作
so, we've been working on a trail now
估计有五，六个星期
for, I don't know, five, six weeks.
我们正在砍掉它们，前往另一个新木屋
We're cutting it to get up to a cabin
我兄弟和叔叔和我今年秋天建造的
That my brother and uncle and I built this fall.
我要把这棵树推向你那边
I'm gonna push this tree towards you.
这个木屋将连接两个木屋
This cabin will link the two cabins
我们目前正在使用的，
That we currently are using,
我们希望那里的栖息地更好
and we're hoping that the habitat is just better up there.
看到这里的貂足迹了吗？
see the marten tracks out here?
不，我还没有注意到
no, I haven't noticed yet.
是的
yeah.
在这里进入北部更好的貂区域
getting into a little bit better marten country up north here.
这是我们一直在谈论的事情
This is something we always talked about
并梦想着，
and dreamed about,
我们在这里，开辟通往我们新木屋的道路，
and here we are, cutting trail to our new cabin,
所以这对我们来说非常令人兴奋
so it's pretty exciting for us.
我周围有荒野，
There's wilderness surrounding me,
从字面上看，向各个方向行驶 100 英里
literally, for 100 miles in every direction.
如果我想去某个地方，我必须开辟一条小路
and if I want to go somewhere, I have to cut a trail.
这有很多工作，很辛苦，
It's a lot of work and hard on my body,
但我认为这是值得的
but I think it's worth it.
捕手一直在开辟道路
trappers have been blazing trails
这些设备使用了数百年
with these devices for hundreds of years.
不，这是一点技术
no, this is a little bit of technology
这真的很有帮助--GPS
That really helps out -- GPS.
从我们现在的位置，