最后的阿拉斯加（2015）

It's nice to all be here together as a family.
我和我的姐妹和妈妈要进城了
me and my sisters and mom are gonna be going into town.
这是我们最后一次在树林里作为一个家庭
This is our last time out here in the woods as a family.
所以，是的，我们只是想享受
so, yeah, we're just trying to enjoy
我们离开这里的每一刻
every moment that we have left here.
姑娘们现在年纪长大了，
The girls are getting older now,
他们会自己离开
and they're gonna be going off on their own.
我们并不急于让他们离开家
We're not real anxious to get them out of the house.
他们不在的时候肯定会想念它，
definitely gonna miss it when they're not there,
但他们急于继续
but they're anxious to get on,
追求自己的道路
pursue their own path.
年轻，有些悲伤 看看这雪
Young wo good grief. look at this snow.
没有什么可以天长地久
nothing lasts forever.
当我在 1975 年第一次在这里起床时，我知道我会很遥远
When I first got up here in '75, I knew I was gonna be remote.
我将独自一人，应付生活
I was gonna be alone, and I coped with it.
我了解了自己
I learned about myself.
我得知我的欲望、我的恐惧、我的欲望、我的需要
I learned my desires, my fears, my wants, my needs.
我期待着离开小镇来到这里
I look forward to leaving town to come out here.
这就是我的心所在，而且永远都在
This is where my heart is, and it always will be.
是的，我很高兴回来
yeah, I'm glad to be back.
我一到这里就开始我的部分了
I am in my element as soon as I land up here.
[螺旋桨呼呼]
[ propellers whirring ]
每个人都认为这很难
everybody thinks it's hard
--住在树林中间
to live out in the middle of the woods
--在荒蛮之地之地
in the middle of nowhere.
那是学究
That's b.s.
木头、水和肉--这就是我需要的
wood and water and meat -- that's what I need out here.
早上，如果我能看到一点踪迹，我就会去
in the morning, if I can see a track, I go.
带我进来的飞行员知道我没有肉
The pilot that brought me in knew I was meatless.
我在吃松鼠、兔子、松鸡--任何我能吃的东西，
I was eating squirrels, rabbits, grouse -- anything I could,
他给了我一些他有的老驼鹿肉
and he gave me some old moose meat he had.
我一直在吃，尽我所能
I'm eating all the time, as much as I can.
我正在努力增加体重以增强我的力量
I'm trying to gain weight to build up my strength.
冬天带来了短暂的白昼，寒冷的天气
the winter brings short days, cold weather.
如果我不能增加体重，我就不能保持温暖
If I can't gain weight, I can't stay warm.
我必须坚强
I have to be strong.
我今天要在河上巡游寻找驯鹿
I'm gonna cruise the river today looking for caribou.
我们有一层淡淡的雪花，
We have a light Dusting of snow,
我将能够看到我们在这个地区有什么，
and I'm gonna be able to see what we have in this country,
昨晚的任何新鲜踪迹，也许是今天
any fresh tracks from last night, maybe today.
希望，我会 - 我想准备好射杀驯鹿
hopefully, I'll -- I want to be ready to take a caribou down.
所以我把我的 点30-06 带了进去，
so I brought my .30-06 inside,
确保没有水分，
make sure that there's no moisture,
上面没有积雪
no buildup of snow on it.
我喜欢做的是有一个热枪栓
What I like to do is have a hot bolt.
如果这个枪栓中有任何湿气，它就不会着火
If there's any humidity in this bolt, it won't fire.
如果我用这支步♥枪♥射击，就会出事
If I shoot this rifle, something's going down.
我不会错过的，期间内
I don't miss, period.
这是女孩的陷阱路线
This is the girls' trapline trail.
海狸套装就在这边的弯道附近，所以...
got beaver sets just right around the bend over here, so...
他们很高兴为我打破它
It was nice of them to break it out for me.
在海狸屋里，通常有一个家庭团体
in the beaver houses, there's usually a family group.
大人，
the adults,
然后那里有前一年的幼崽
and then there's the previous year's kittens in there.
你试着把它们留在每个房♥子的每个聚居地
You try and leave those in each colony of each house.
一旦你拿了两个成年的，你就带上它
once you take the two adults, then you pull it.
海狸真的很有力
beavers are really strong.
通常如果你有一个，他们会打架，
usually if you got one, they'll fight,
这东西会被打滚一点
and this thing will be wallowed out a little bit.
看起来不像
doesn't look like it.
哇 水从洞里冒出来
wow. water's coming up in the hole.
现在冰冻
freezing now.
哦，有一个 好的
oh, there's one. all right.
好事
good deal.
那里有杂货 香肠
There's groceries right there. sausage.
必须把他滚到这里的雪地里
got to roll him in the snow here
所以他不会冻得--吸干所有的水
so he don't freeze getting -- sucking up all the water.
你在雪地里滚动它们，它会吸收所有多余的水
You roll them in the snow, and it absorbs all the excess water.
是的，他是个小胖子 滚滚聚
yeah, he's a fat little bugger. roly-poly.
我们总是会有几个篝火
We always would have a couple bonfires.
这是女孩们回家前的最后一次篝火晚会
This is our last bonfire before the girls go home.
我有一个真正的杀手海狸香肠食谱，我们制定的
I got a really killer beaver link-sausage recipe we worked up
里面有墨西哥辣椒
with chipotle in it.
只是在那里养活家里的其他人？
just feeding the rest of the family there?
他们赢得了这些 他们可以拥有它们
They earned these. they can have them.
我只是把它们塞在那里
I'm just stuffing them down there.
剩下的海狸会吃掉它们--
the rest of the beaver will eat them --
让他们保持肥胖和快乐
keep them fat and happy.
这将是我们需要的所有海狸
That will be all the beaver we need.
我看到那里有一条狼迹
I see a wolf trail there
我想在这里设置一个圈套
That I want to set a snare on up in here.
他们在河岸上下有两个地方，
There's two places they went up and down the bank,
所以我想设置好
so I want to set that out.
这是这里的狼踪迹
This here is the wolf trail right here.
他们沿着河岸往下走
They followed this bank and went down.
狼，他们真的很狡猾，
the wolves, they're really cunning,
这就是你要小心你的气味的地方
and this is where you got to be careful of your scent.
就个人而言，我认为狼是顶级掠食者--顶级
personally, I think wolves are the top predators -- top.
他真是个聪明的动物
He's such a smart animal.
在这棵树上系上网罗，
attached a snare to this tree,
然后那里就像一个夹点
and then there's like a pinch point in there
他们的踪迹进入了那个灌木状区域
where their trail went into that brushlike area.
肉食者总是比草食动物聪明，
meat-eaters are always smarter than an herbivore,
因为他们必须是这样
because they have to be.
他们必须学习如何获得有大脑的猎物
They have to learn how to get something that has a brain.
我拿了一些像这样的云杉树枝
I take some spruce branches like this
把树上的气味带到圈套上，
and get the scent on there from the tree onto the snare,
然后我会把它压下来
and then I'll squeeze it down
像这样擦过这里
and rub it through here like this.
放上圈套--就这样把它包起来
put the snare -- just wrap it around like this.
我们都在为同一件事而竞争--
We're both in competition for the same thing --
驼鹿和驯鹿--
for moose and caribou --
但是，我们一年只需要一只驼鹿
but, you know, we only need one moose a year.
一头狼一年需要很多驼鹿--很多
a wolf needs a lot of moose a year -- a lot.
当我诱捕狼群时，
When I trap wolves,
我觉得我在帮助其他动物
I feel like I'm helping out the other animals.
我不想看到他们被消灭，
I don't want to see them wiped out,
你知道--狼
You know -- the wolves.
我总是想在这里见到他们
I always want to see them here.
当我像这样离开困境时，我担心埃德娜
When I'm out trapping like this, I worry about Edna.
我愿意，因为，如果她受伤了，她--
I do, because, you know, if she gets hurt, you know, she --
我确信她担心我
I'm sure she worries about me
用同样的东西，
with the same exact thing, you know.
所以，我担心她会受伤
so, I worry about her getting hurt.
有一次，我出去检查陷阱，
at one time, I was out checking traps,
我们有一只冬天的熊来到木屋，
and we had a winter bear come to the cabin,
这是罕见的，但它发生了
which is rare, but it happens.
阿♥拉♥斯加大部分地区都有熊
most of Alaska has bears.
如果不是灰熊，就是黑熊
If it's not a grizzly bear, it's a black bear.
如果不是黑熊，是北极熊，
If it's not a black bear, it's a polar bear, you know.
但冬熊则完全不同
but the winter bears are totally different.
冬天的灰熊非常危险
a winter grizzly bear is very dangerous.
它在冬天从巢穴里出来
It comes out of its den in the middle of winter.
它很瘦 它正饿着
It's skinny. it's starving.
他会吃掉你的
He'll eat you.
这只冬天的灰熊发现了我们的踪迹
This winter grizzly bear got on our trail
并跟着直奔房♥子
and followed it right to the house.
我听到我们的狗开始吠叫...
I heard our dog start barking...
...所以我出去了
...so I went out.
我和狗之间有木桩
I had the wood pile between me and the dog.
我正要告诉她保持安静