最后的阿拉斯加（2015）

一切是如何连接在一起的
of how everything's connected together.
你必须研究地形，这个地区
You've got to study the terrain, the country.
你真的必须研究动物的习性
You really have to study the habits of the animals.
你到了那个地步，你是其中的一部分
You get to the point where, you know, you're a part of it.
是的，这里有一些痕迹
yeah, Here's some tracks coming down.
是的，他刚刚砍断了树木
yeah, he just cut through the trees.
他要下来这里
He's coming down here.
它看起来像一头公鹿
It looks like a single bull.
他通过了，是的，我会说四五天前
He came through, yeah, I'd say four or five days ago.
附近肯定有驼鹿
There's definitely moose in the neighborhood.
但这里有一些狼的踪迹
but Here's some wolf tracks here.
很多时候，狼，他们会有点犹豫
a lot of times, the wolves, they'll kind of hesitate
他们会稍微改变步伐
and they'll, you know, change stride a little bit.
但你可以看到他甚至没有改变步伐或任何东西的地方，
but you can see where he didn't even change stride or anything,
所以狼首先通过了
and so the wolf came through first.
驼鹿随后经过
the moose came through after the wolf.
这一定是最艰难的生活方式，
That's got to be the toughest way to live,
不得不把你的食物打倒地上
is having to fight your food to the ground
每次你需要吃饭
every time you need to eat.
这不是，就像，华特迪士尼的东西，
You know, It's not, like, a Walt Disney thing where,
他们只是在清理那些
You know, they're just cleaning up the ones
那无论如何都会死的
That were gonna die anyway.
他们可以杀死一个完全健康的成年鹿
They can take down a fully healthy adult.
狼也得谋生，所以你就...
a wolf got to make a living, too, so you just...
希望，你打败了他
hopefully, you beat him to it.
[模糊的无线电聊天]
[ indistinct radio chatter ]
我必须得到好天气
I have to get the good weather
确保当我乘飞机起飞时，
to make sure that when I take off by plane,
我不会被恶劣的恶劣天气所困扰
I'm not waylaid by bad, inclement weather.
我得去育空的环城
I got to go to circle city on the yukon.
这只熊破坏了两加仑的二冲程循环油
This bear busted two gallons of two-cycle oil.
我需要这艘船用发动机的油
I need the oil for this boat engine.
我可以在营地附近打猎，但如果我想出去 10 英里，
I can hunt around camp, but if I want to go 10 miles out,
我需要--船
I need the -- the boat.
无线电中的女人：今天周围，大部分时间都是晴天，
woman over radio: In the surrounding outposts today, mostly sunny,
气温高至 50，
highs in the lower to mid-50s,
西南风每小时 5 到 15 英里
southwest wind 5 to 15 miles per hour.
今天中部内陆，部分多云，50 ...
central interior today, partly cloudy, high/mid-50s...
这对我们有好处
That's good for us.
来吧，我们走吧
come on, let's go.
哦哦
ooh
熊
bear
昨天有一只熊在这里
There was a bear yesterday that was here.
看那个！
look at that!
哦，我的飞机
aw, my plane.
我的飞机，周围有食物
My plane, there's food all around it.
里面有食物
There's food in it.
啊
ah
他也是一只大熊
and He's a big bear, too.
这是一个三射枪
This is a three-shot pump.
这是可用的最小的霰弹枪
It's the smallest shotgun available.
对于近距离，我想做好准备
for close range, I want to be ready.
我不需要另一个惊喜
I don't need another surprise.
我正在做藜麦面包，它是--
I'm making quinoa bread, and It's --
我不是一直都做，但味道很好
I don't make it all the time, but It's got a nice flavor.
它实际上是具有蛋白质价值的秘鲁种子
It's actually peruvian seed that has a protein value in it.
所以...
so...
我想这可能是一个好处
and I suppose it could be a benefit
或者是一件好事，
or a good thing now that, you know,
我们没有吃很多肉，是的
We're not eating a whole lot of meat, but, um, yeah.
就是这样了
so, that's it.
我们要让它发酵一会
and we're gonna let it raise for a little bit.
听起来可能是驼鹿在折断树枝
sounded like that might have been a moose cracking a branch
或者鹿角架什么的，
or an antler racking or something,
所以就去看看吧
So just gonna go check it out.
他们喜欢这样的长草的泥
They like these grassy sloughs like this.
如果你能听到，
If you can hear it,
那么你很有可能得到它，得到一只驼鹿
then there's a good chance you can get it, get a moose.
从镇上出来的最初几周，
for the first few weeks coming out from town,
我耳朵里嗡嗡作响
I got a buzzing in my ears.
就跟平常一样--
It's just like a normal --
只是像，低嗡嗡声，像背景噪音
just, like, a low hum, like background noise.
嗡嗡声需要几个星期才能清除
and it takes a couple weeks for the buzzing to clear out.
然后，声音变得更加不同，更加清晰
and then, things become more distinct, crisper.
你可以拾取较小的声音...
You're able to pick up smaller sounds...
...有点像你的眼睛适应黑暗
...kind of like your eyes adjusting to the dark.
只是没有看到它，一只可能在任何地方的驼鹿
just not seeing it, a moose that could be anywhere.
我正在步行下飞机
I'm taking a walk down to the plane
以确保熊没有打扰任何事情
to make sure that bear didn't bother anything.
我有，好几箱食物
I have, uh, several caches of food.
我的一个隐藏物
and there's one of my caches.
那是食物，发电机
That's food, a generator.
有气雾罐挂着
There's aerosol cans hanging.
熊通常会咬一切
A bear usually bites everything.
如果他咬那个，它会给他一个胡扯
If he bites that, It'll give him a shot of crap.
这架飞机值相当多的钱
the plane is worth a considerable bit of money.
好吧，什么都没碰 一切都很好
well, nothing's touched. everything's good.
发动机发热
got heat on the engine.
我要加热一个小时左右
I'm gonna to warm it up for about an hour
在我尝试启动它之前
before I try to start it.
所以，我现在正在紧急运行
so, I'm making an emergency run right now.
这很好
This is good.
如果出了问题，我想要一根绳子
If something goes wrong, I want a piece of rope.
你永远不知道会发生什么
You never know what's gonna happen.
我在飞机上有弓锯
I've got a bow saw in the plane.
我有咖啡，我有一个壶
I've got coffee, I got a pot.
我可以煮咖啡，我可以让自己暖和起来
I can make coffee, I can warm myself up.
如果需要，我可以求生到帮助到来
I can survive till help comes if I need to.
我以前也遇到过这种情况
I've been in them situations before.
我们一年有高水位--三、四年前
We had high water a year -- three, four years ago.
我倒♥退♥到尽可能多的空间，然后我起飞了
I backed up to as much room as I had, and I had took off.
我获得了升力，可能是 6、8 英尺
I gained lift, maybe 6, 8 feet.
我没有足够的空间
I didn't have enough room.
我掉在了河中♥央♥
I dropped in the middle of the river.
挡风玻璃，碎了
the windshield, it shattered.
水进入驾驶舱，
water's coming in the cockpit,
飞机在水流中旋转
and the plane is rotating in the current.
我不得不游泳出去，到岸边，
I had to swim out, get to shore,
我用套索套住机尾，
and I lassoed the tail,
把那架飞机绞到干地上
winched that plane on to dry ground.
我很幸运我经历了那一次
I'm lucky I lived through that one.
这个极端的土地，你总是在边缘
This extreme country, you're always on the edge.
用我的智慧对抗极端，
match my wits against the extreme,
这就是我喜欢的
and that's what I love.
我在威斯康星长大
I was raised in Wisconsin.
我曾经年轻 我是19 或 20岁，什么的
I was young. I was, what, 19 or 20, something that.
我的梦想是来到北极
my dream was to come up to the arctic.
我想，就像，“伙计，这很整洁，
I thought, like, "man, that's neat," you know?
“我必须这样做，”
"I got to do this."
我想要自♥由♥和荒野，真正的荒野
I wanted freedom and wilderness, true wilderness.
当你在一个地方生活了 40 年，
When you live in a place 40 years,
你变得依附于它
You become attached to it.
它只是成为你的一部分
It just becomes part of you.
我们在这里养育了四个女孩，
We raised four girls here,
其中一个死在这里
and one of them passed away out here.
甚至让我更加依恋，
That even makes me more attached,
比如，我不想离开她
like, I don't want to leave her.
我们在科林河捕河鳟鱼
We're fishing for gayling at the Coleen river.
科林，她是，她死时只有 2 岁
Coleen, She was, you know, She was 2 when She died.
事实上，她刚满 2 岁
She just turned 2, in fact.