最后的阿拉斯加（2015）

他是谁？
Who's he?
小Tim？
oh, tiny Tim?
有腿 他的腿有点跛行
There's the leg. he's only got the gimp leg.
他的腿不好
He's got a bad leg.
所以我们有点同情他
so we've kind of taken compassion on him
有点--那是甜甜圈吗？
and kind of --is that a doughnut?
我以为他拿出一块肉
I thought he took out a piece of meat.
我猜他正在吃我们的奶粉块
He's eating one of our maple bars, I guess.
雷给它喂了一根奶粉块
Ray's feeding it a maple bar.
他喜欢你的奶粉块
He likes your maple bars.
北极保护区
The arctic refuge
大约是南卡罗来纳州的大小
is roughly the size of the state of south Carolina.
你走了数百、数千英里
You go for hundreds of -- thousands of miles
没有道路，什么都没有
without roads, nothing.
我们的许可证只会到期
our permits only go up
直到我们最后一个孩子死去
until the death of our last child.
100年内，将没有人
within 100 years, there's gonna be nobody.
我们是最后一个
We are the last.
冬天很美...
in the wintertime there's beauty...
...城里人看不到的美丽
...a beauty that nobody in town sees.
小溪和河流，它们变成了公路
The creeks and the river, they become highways.
一切都在移♥动♥， 一切都在努力生存
everything's moving. everything's trying to survive.
一切都饿了
everything's hungry.
一切都在吃其他东西
everything is eating everything else.
今天20以下左右，
It's about 20 below today,
这是这些靴子的完美天气
and it's perfect weather for these boots.
埃德娜做这些 这些都是驼鹿皮毛
Edna makes these. these are all moose.
我使用这些靴子的原因是，
the reason that I work these boots is,
因为如果你不这样做
because if you don't do that
你日复一日地走在这些路上，
and you walk on these day after day after day,
然后在底部，它变得非常光滑和滑溜
then on the bottom, it becomes very slick and slippery.
这会松开纤维，
This loosens up the fibers,
这种行为就像 - 它抓住了雪
which kind of acts as like -- it grips the snow.
你必须每天早上都这样做
and you got to do this every morning.
像这样的一双靴子，其中包含着关怀
to a pair of boots like this, there's care involved in it.
这对我来说是一个相当大的过程，
and this is quite a process for me,
但是，嘿，我的脚很暖和，这才是最重要的
but, hey, my feet are warm, and that's all that counts.
有一次我在打扫房♥子，
one time I was cleaning the house,
我找到了单只的袜子
I found one side sock.
我说：“另一只去哪儿了？”
I said, "where did the other side go?"
他回到家，一侧脚冰凉
He came home, his foot was cold on one side.
我穿了三只袜子，两只在一边，一只在另一边
I had three socks on, two on side, one on the other.
我忘了穿一只
I forgot to put one on.
我想，如果我能活到 90 岁，
You know, I figure, if I live to be 90,
我不知道我是否还能做到这一切
I don't know if I'll still be able to do all this.
但如果我有选择，
but if I had my choice,
我不可能进城去
tHere'd be no way that I would go in town.
一方面，我从来--如果我能决定的话--
for one thing, I do not ever -- if I can help it --
不想死在医院里
want to die in a hospital.
--这个世界上所有可怕的地方死亡
of all the horrible places in this world to die.
我宁愿死在这里
I'd rather die out here.
这已经是过去 40 年的家了
I mean, this has been home for the past 40 years.
所以，我今天的计划是，我要去河边，
so, my plan today is, I'm gonna head out to the river,
我要检查一下冰面，确保我能越过它
and I'm gonna check on the ice to make sure I can cross it.
现在，我很有限
right now, I'm pretty limited.
我只能在河的这一边设置几条线，
I can only set out a couple lines on this side of the river,
而这些线路总共可能只有 25 英里
and these lines are only maybe a total of 25 miles.
所以如果我能越过冰层，
so if I can cross the ice,
那是我真正开始诱捕的时候
That's when trapping really starts for me.
一旦我能过河，
once I can cross the river,
然后我会到达 150 到可能 200 英里的线路
then I'll get to 150 to possibly 200 miles of line.
我更喜欢徒步设陷阱捕捉（动物），这样简单，
I prefer the simplicity of trapping on foot,
只是平和、安静和细致
just the peace and quiet and the detail.
这更亲密
It's more intimate.
我只是享受那种纽带
I just enjoy that bond
你得到的，介于两者之间的任何东西
That you get without, you know, anything in between.
你可以使用的设备越少，
the less equipment you can get by with,
你过得越好
the better off you are.
永远不要相信任何有电池的东西
never trust anything with a battery.
我从来没有失望过，-
I've never been let down by, you know, the --
像，斧头或雪鞋
like, an axe or snowshoes.
今年我们没有得到一头驼鹿
We didn't get a moose this year
并且有点用猞猁来扩展我们的肉类供应
and kind of stretched out our meat supply with a lynx.
这是我放第一组的地方，就在这里
This is where I put my first set, right here.
这个地方在泥沼的尽头，
This spot here is on the end of a slough,
泥沼对猞猁来说几乎是一块磁铁
and the sloughs are pretty much a magnet for lynx.
主要是在晚上
It's mostly at night.
他们只是走着走着，他们只会伸入他们的头
They'll just be walking along, and they'll just poke their head
穿过任何有开口的地方，
through wherever there's an opening,
所以你给他们的脑袋留了一个足够大的开口
so you leave an opening big enough for their head.
猞猁是真的温柔和醇厚，所以真的没有侵略性
lynx are real gentle and mellow, so real unaggressive.
他们会坐在那里然后把它收紧，
and they'll just sit there and then tighten it up,
然后--他们基本上只是去睡觉了
and then there -- they just basically go to sleep.
捕猎者不喜欢看到--和其他人一样--
trappers don't like to see -- you know, like anybody else --
你不想看到任何不必要的痛苦
You don't want to see anything suffer needlessly.
那是猞猁套装
That's a lynx set.
准备好我的装备
getting my gear ready.
这是一年中的那个时候--十一月初
It's that time of year -- early november.
我要走了
I got to go.
不，这个冬天我还没准备好
no, I'm not prepared this winter.
一只灰熊钻进了我的木屋
a grizzly bear got into my cabin.
我在这里吃了两年的干粮
I had two years of dried food in here.
灰熊摧毁了这一切
He destroyed it all.
这个季节我没有看到驼鹿
I didn't see a moose this season.
这个季节我没有看到驯鹿
I didn't see a caribou this season.
但最糟糕的是--一周前，我的飞机坠毁了
but the worst thing -- a week ago, my plane went down.
我从这里起飞...
I took off out of here...
...只是为了做一次加油
...just to do a gas run.
我飞得很低，因为风太大了...
I'm flying low because it was so windy...
...但随后飞机失速了
...but then the plane stalled out.
死一般的寂静，只有空气
dead quiet, with just the air.
我当时就在那里向上帝祈祷
I prayed to god right then and there.
我在茫茫荒野中，没有食物
I was in the middle of nowhere with no food.
我吃了一把坚果和咖啡
I had a handful of nuts and coffee.
我生了火 我有一条太空毯
I made a fire. I had a space blanket.
有几次我差点掉进火里
several times I almost fell into the fire
因为我睡着了
because I was falling asleep.
我不想让那火熄灭
I didn't want that fire to go out.
如果那场火熄灭了，我的生命就没有了
If that fire went out, there goes my life.
这架飞机将成为我坟墓的标志
the plane would have been a marker for my grave.
第四天，听说有飞机
the fourth day, I heard a plane.
我已经准备好了照明弹...
and I had my flare ready...
...他看到了我
...and he saw me.
那时我知道我会活着出去
That's when I knew I was gonna get out alive.
那时我才知道
That's when I knew.
如果我被困在没有飞机的地方 或者我死在水里了
I'm stuck without the plane. I'm dead in the water.
我不能延长我的陷阱线 我无法自我补给
I can't extend my trapping. I can't resupply myself.
我有一个机械师和乔·玛蒂----我的皮草买♥♥家
I have a mechanic and Joe mattie -- my fur buyer.
他们会飞进来，
They're gonna fly in,
将机身带往费尔班克斯，
bring the fuselage into Fairbanks,
到要固定的衣架
to the hanger to be fixed.
我想要那架飞机 我需要那架飞机
I want that plane. I need that plane.
玛蒂：你可以看到狐狸很大，
mattie: you can see the hussocks are quite big,
相当崎岖不平的地形
pretty rough-and-tumbly-type terrain.
这是几张航拍照片
You know, this a couple of aerial shots
鲍勃·哈特的飞机，他把她放下的地方
of Bob harte's airplane, where he put her down.
在阿♥拉♥斯加这里，
up here in Alaska,
我们倾向于互相帮助
We tend to try to help each other out
当我们彼此需要时，
When we need each other,
所以我们要坐直升机飞出去