最后的阿拉斯加（2015）

这是 Ed Owens 的木屋位置
This is ed owens' cabin site.
它建于 1914 年，它是--
It was built in 1914, and It's --
这是历史，时期
It's history, period.
我每年都来这里看看发生了什么
I come here every year just to see what went on.
这是木屋位置
This Here's the cabin site.
和旧的燃木炉
and old wood-burning stove.
金属床
metal bed.
是的，森林正在接管
yeah, the woods are taking over.
这些是旧燃料桶
these are old fuel buckets.
如果这个地方被挖了，
If this place was dug up,
你会在这里找到一些宝藏
You'd find some treasures in here.
有一个茶壶
There's a teapot.
他在这里度过了他一生的61年...
He spent 61 years of his life right here...
因为某种原因
for a reason.
91岁时，他在林场被发现，冻死了
at 91 years old, he was found in the woodyard, froze to death.
他穿着靴子死去
He died with his boots on.
在这里 61 年--很酷
61 years here -- cool.
幸运儿
lucky man.
北极避难所的面♥积♥大致等同于
The arctic refuge is roughly the size
南卡罗来纳州
of the state of South Carolina.
你可以走数百、数千英里
You can go for hundreds, thousands of miles
没有道路，什么都没有
without roads, nothing.
我们的许可证只会在我们最后一个孩子去世之前到期
our permits only go up until the death of our last child.
100年内，将没有人
within 100 years, there's gonna be nobody.
我们是最后一个
We are the last.
秋季到冬季的过渡通常非常快
The fall-to-winter transition is usually pretty fast.
有点措手不及的...
You wouldn't want to be caught unprepared...
当冬天来临时
When winter's upon you.
当你在秋天离开时，
When you leave in the fall,
你必须拥有你需要的一切
You have to have everything you need.
大自然母亲在这里是核心部分
mother nature is hardcore up here.
在北极圈以北这么远的地方，
This far north of the arctic circle,
在这种寒冷中，你需要肉，你需要脂肪
in this cold, you need the meat, and you need the fat.
你必须在冬天之前出去得到它
You have to go out and get it before the winter.
现在，在秋天，我早上的例行公事是起床，
right now, in the fall, my morning routine is get up,
启动柴炉
start the wood stove.
爱德娜 喜欢多睡一会儿
Edna likes to sleep in a little bit more.
她不喜欢睡到很晚，
She doesn't like to sleep in till late-late,
但她喜欢再有半个小时
but she likes to have another half hour.
她不喜欢在屋子冷的时候起床
She doesn't like to get up when the house is cold.
所以 - 所以我得到了一切温暖
and so -- so I get it all warm.
然后她就可以摆脱漂亮温暖的毯子了，
then she can get out of nice, warm blankets,
走进一座温暖的建筑
into a warm building.
你要叉子吗？ 是的，请
You want a fork? yeah, please.
如果埃德娜和我出了什么事--
If something happened to Edna and I --
假设我是个鳏夫，我不会一个人出来
let's say I was a widower, I wouldn't come out alone.
只是不会这样做
just wouldn't do it.
即使过了这么多年，我也不会这样做
even after all these years, I wouldn't do it.
吃饱
eat up.
住在这里很难，但最重要的事情之一
living up here is hard, but one of the major things
这让我对这种生活方式感到高兴
That makes me happy about living this lifestyle
是我为自己提供一切
is I'm providing everything for myself.
我什么都自己做
I'm doing everything by myself.
嗯，当然，埃德娜是其中很大一部分--
well, of course, Edna's a huge part of it --
我的意思是，它的主要部分
I mean, major part of it.
配给在这里很重要
rationing is important out here.
如果我们用完了这些东西，
If we ran out of any of these stuff,
我们不能像大多数人那样跑到商店
We can't run to the store like most people do.
在这个桶里，我们有通心粉，
in this drum, we have the macaroni,
这是面粉
and this is the flour.
我们已经把大米放在底部了
and we've got the rices way down in the bottom.
你必须尝试配给一切，
You got to try to ration everything,
因为这些笨重的东西我们通过的速度要快得多
because these bulky stuff we go through a lot faster
如果我们的肉用完了
If we ran out of meat.
整个冬天都不够用
It's not gonna be enough for the whole winter.
我们需要得到驼鹿肉，驼鹿
We need to get moose meat, moose.
当我打猎时，我的感官处于巅峰状态
When I'm hunting, my senses are at their peak.
我的耳朵是张开的
my ears are open.
我的眼睛正在扫描
my eyes are scanning.
甚至我的鼻子也是
even my nose, too.
一切都经过微调并随时准备就绪
everything is just fine-tuned and ready on the go.
一些...一些驼鹿的排泄物在这里
some...some moose crap here.
那是--它不是真正新鲜的，但它是--
That's -- It's not real fresh, but It's --
这是，我不知道，一对夫妇，两三天大，
It's, I don't know, a couple, two, three days old,
这很好，至少有一些迹象
and that's good, that at least there's some sign
这有点新鲜
That's somewhat fresh.
这意味着他们在这里
That means that they're here.
驼鹿就在这里吃了这棵年轻的白杨木
moose ate this young cottonwood right here.
然后另一个就在那里--驼鹿吃了它
and then another one right there -- moose ate it.
痕迹看起来就在这里
and the track looked like right here.
当你在这里住了很长时间，
When you live out here for a long time,
你会注意到这样的事情
You notice stuff like this.
海狸屋就在那儿，
the beaver house is right there,
他们通常喜欢海狸池塘
and they usually like beaver ponds.
海狸在那里咀嚼一棵树，
where a beaver chews down a tree in that,
然后有年轻的成长从它的侧面出来，
and then there's young growth coming out from the side of it,
他们喜欢吃那个
They like to eat that.
驼鹿来了 我只是要找到他们
the moose are here. I just got to find them.
这是完美的驼鹿栖息地
This is perfect moose habitat.
他们得到了水，他们得到了柳树
They got water, and they got the willows.
一切都在为冬天做准备
everything's getting ready for winter.
海狸是 ，我们也是
the beaver are. you know, we are.
大多数鸟都走了
most of the birds have gone.
驼鹿发♥情♥了
the moose are rutting.
熊正在暴风雨般地吃，因为它们必须冬眠
the bears are eating up a storm, 'cause they got to hibernate.
这一切都预示着冬天的到来，
This is all an indication winter's coming,
所以我想和海狸一样做好准备
So I want to be prepared just as much as the beaver do.
在阿♥拉♥斯加的这一部分，
in this part of Alaska,
真正的北极国家野生动物保护区，
the real arctic national wildlife refuge,
这里的食物没有那么丰富
food is not as abundant out here
因为它会低于 -48度
as it would be down in the lower 48.
我和埃德娜还有掠食者，
me and Edna and the predators,
我们都在为驼鹿、驯鹿而竞争
We're all in competition for the moose, for the caribou.
我们的步♥枪♥--这是一个非常重要的部分
our rifle -- It's a pretty important part
我们的工具库
of our arsenal of tools.
这是一个可以获取食物的游戏枪，
It's a game gun that gets food,
但它也是，防御熊
but It's also, you know, defense for bears.
这是一个 0.35 的温彻斯特
It's a .35 Winchester.
它刚问世时很受欢迎，因为它的力量
It was popular when it first came out 'cause of its power.
泰迪·罗斯福在非洲携带了一只
Teddy Roosevelt carried one in africa.
我喜欢老枪
I like old guns.
我想这与过去有某种联♥系♥，
I guess It's kind of a connection with the past,
你知道？
You know?
它完成了它的工作
It's done its job.
它从来没有--从来没有让我失望过
It's never -- never let me down.
有垫子吗？
got the cushions?
是的 得到了一切
yeah. got everything.
刀？ 和你的包？
knife? and your pack?
我得到了我的带刀
I got my belt knife.
是的，我得到了一切
yeah, I got everything.
得到了我的日用包
got my day pack.
这是一个清爽的早晨--
It's a nice crisp morning --
完美，完美的一天
perfect, perfect day for it.
所以...
so...
好的
all right.
我会在晚餐时间回来
I'll be back around dinnertime.
好的 再见
okay. see ya.
注意保暖
stay warm.
它很脆 这个很酷 这是湿的 很潮湿
It's crisp. It's cool. It's wet. It's damp.
这是这样的天气