英国铁路纪行（2010）

Great British Railway Journeys S01E20

Part 3 Aug. 24, 2025, 4:25 p.m.

我三点半就起床了，因为我们住在肯特郡。
I got up at half three, because we live in Kent.
三点半...？是的。哇哦。
Half past...? Yes. Wow.
"最终，我找到了一位真正在这里工作的女性。"
'Eventually, I find a woman who actually works here.'
早上好！早上好。
Good morning! Morning.
看来你是管钱的女士！是的。
I can see you're the money lady! Yes.
你早上几点起床？
What time do you have to get up in the morning?
我大约一点二十分起床。
I get up about twenty past one.
早上十点左右回家。
And I get home about ten o'clock in the morning.
在市场里看到女性面孔真是太好了，
It's just so nice to see a lady's face in the market,
因为这里女性不多，对吧？
because there aren't so many, are there?
是的，这里以男性为主。
No, it's very male orientated.
你觉得为什么这样？
Why do you think that is?
现在我们有女火车司机、出租车司机，
Now we have a lady train drivers, but drivers, taxi drivers.
为什么不能在肉类市场工作？
Why not work in the meat market?
我觉得这里一直是男性主导，以后也会是。
I think it's always been male and it is always going to be.
我觉得也和体力有关。
I think it's a strength thing as well.
他们觉得你可能搬不动那些箱子，
They think that you probably can't lift up the boxes,
因为它们很重。
because they're quite heavy.
他们对你有礼貌吗？
Do they behave nicely with you?
注意言行举止？
Watch their Ps and Qs?
有时候。不总是，没有。
Sometimes. Not always, no.
如果你是单身，你会过得很开心。
If you were single, you could have a good time.
好吧，我承认下班后
Well, I confess that when I finish work
去某个地方喝一杯挺不错的。
it's quite nice to go somewhere and have a drink.
即使你凌晨两三点开始工作，
And just because you begin work at two or three in the morning,
也没理由改变这个习惯。
no reason why it should be different.
所以史密斯菲尔德这里有特殊的许可法，
And so here, for Smithfield, there are special licensing laws
允许人们在早上六点下班后喝一杯！
to allow people to have a tipple when they knock off work at 6am!
真早啊！
That's early!
（迈克尔笑声）
MICHAEL LAUGHS
当漫长的工作夜晚结束后，
When the long night's work is done,
市场商贩们会来到公鸡酒馆，
the market traders come to the Cock Tavern,
这家酒馆已经存在约150年了。
which has been here for around 150 years.
谢谢。看起来很棒。谢谢。
Thank you. That looks lovely. Thank you.
你就是著名的卡门吗？
Are you the famous Carmen?
我是。不知道算不算著名，但我是卡门。
I am. I don't know about famous, but I'm Carmen.
有时间坐下来聊聊吗...
Have you got time to sit down...
"卡门·莱斯利是这家酒馆的厨师，天不亮就开始工作，"
'Carmen Leslie is a chef at the pub and works from before dawn,
"为饥饿的市场商贩准备食物。"
'feeding hungry market traders.
你在这里工作多久了？大概43年。
How long have you worked here? I would say 43 years.
43年在一家酒馆工作真是很长的时间。
43 years is a very long time in one pub.
是的，但这是家著名的酒馆。
Yeah, but it's a famous pub.
以前我可能不被允许进来，因为我不是市场的人。
At one time I wouldn't have been allowed to come in here because I wasn't part of the market.
不行。没人能进。不过你不一样。
No. Nobody. Well, you are different.
他们可能会让你进来，因为查尔斯王子来过...
They'd probably let you in because Prince Charles was here...
王太后也来过。
The Queen Mother was here.
其实有不少名人来过。
Quite a few famous people actually.
你给我准备了一份很棒的早餐。
You've brought me a very nice breakfast.
你觉得这些食材都来自市场吗？
Do you think this all comes from the market, one way or another?
都来自市场，所有东西都是。
They're all from the market, everything.
连鸡蛋也是？连鸡蛋也是？
Even the eggs. Even the eggs?
鸡又没在这里下蛋。
The hens didn't lay the eggs here.
但都来自市场，所有东西都是。
But it comes from the market, everything.
我通常不会在这个时间喝啤酒，
I don't normally have a pint at this time of the morning
但我在想，反正我也没睡觉。
but I'm kind of thinking, well, it's like I didn't go to bed.
我整晚都在狂欢。你呢？
I've been partying all night. Have you?
没有！
No!
吃完商贩早餐后，
After my trader's breakfast,
是时候离开市场，开始我旅程的最后一段了。
it's time to leave the market for the final part of my journey.
跟随布拉德肖的脚步，
Following in Bradshaw's footsteps,
我将开始他在首都的徒步之旅，
I'm heading off on his walking tour of the capital,
欣赏最美的风景。
to take in the best sights.
我从最令人印象深刻的建筑开始。
And I'm starting with one of the most impressive.
你知道圣保罗大教堂最棒的是什么吗？
You know the great thing about St Paul's?
它宏伟而优雅。
It's huge but it's elegant.
精致无比。
It's sophisticated.
这是克里斯托弗·雷恩爵士一个人的构想。
It's the idea of a single man, Sir Christopher Wren.
我喜欢站在这里，因为你能感受到它的规模。
And I love standing here because you realise its size.
但现在有了这么多摩天大楼，我们可能会忘记
But now with all the skyscrapers, we're in danger of forgetting
这座大教堂在各方面都是多么伟大的成就。
just what a massive achievement this cathedral is in every sense.
布拉德肖的指南建议你站在
Bradshaw's guide recommends that you stand
滑铁卢桥的中♥央♥，
in the middle of Waterloo Bridge
眺望圣保罗大教堂、萨默塞特宫和议会大厦。
and pick out St Paul's, Somerset House and the Houses of Parliament.
令我惊讶的是，150年过去了，
It's striking to me that we've had 150 years of development since
至少在我看来，这三座建筑
and, to me at least, those three buildings
依然是这条河岸线上最突出的景观。
are still the outstanding features of this riverscape.
河流将我带到了我非常熟悉的伦敦区域。
The river takes me to a part of London I know extremely well.
所以从巴克斯顿到伦敦的铁路旅程，某种意义上
So my rail journey from Buxton to London has brought me home,
真的让我回家了。
in a rather literal way.
这里是白厅，曾经
This is Whitehall and at one time,
我住在海军部大楼的公♥寓♥里。
I used to live in a flat up there in Admiralty House.
再往前走几步就是我最熟悉的地方，
But just a few yards further on is a place I know better than most,
我在那里度过了20年。
having spent 20 years here.
新议会大厦开放时，
The new Houses of Parliament were opened
我的指南书即将出版。
just as my guidebook was going to press.
书中称这是自圣保罗大教堂以来伦敦最重要的建筑，
And it refers to this as the most important building in London since St Paul's
并称其为有史以来最完美的设计。
and talks about it as the most perfect thing ever planned.
最引人注目的是钟楼。
The most striking thing of all was the clock tower.
根据我上次作为议员时的记忆，
And from what I remember from my last visit there
在我议员任期的最后几天，
during my last days as an MP,
这座钟与铁路有着重要的联♥系♥。
there's an important link between the clock and the railways.
钟楼通常不对公众开放。
The clock tower isn't generally open to the public.
一、二、三、四、五、六、七......
One, two, three, four, five, six, seven...
23、24、25、26......
23, 24, 25, 26...
但作为前议员的一项特权
But a great privilege of being a former MP
是我可以爬上去。
is that I'm allowed to climb up it.
271、272......
271, 272...
我知道你为什么来这儿。
I know why you're here.
273......
273...
"爬完334级台阶后，"
'And with 334 steps,
"我很庆幸在史密斯菲尔德吃了早餐。"
'I'm glad I had that breakfast back at Smithfield's.'
啊，这段楼梯可真够长的。
Ah, that's quite a flight of stairs you've got there.
"终于到达顶部后，"
'Finally, I've reached the top
"我见到了伊恩·韦斯特沃斯和保罗·罗伯森，"
'where I'm meeting Ian Westworth and Paul Roberson,'
他们负责维护威斯敏斯特宫的时钟。
who maintain the Palace of Westminster's clocks.
他们的工作自布拉德肖时代以来就没有改变过。
They're doing a job that hasn't changed since Bradshaw's day.
我们必须将时钟误差控制在两秒以内。
We've got to keep the clock within two seconds of time.
我们通过调整来实现这一点。
And we do this by adjusting.
放一枚硬币可以让24小时内时钟快五分之二秒。
By putting one penny on speeds the clock up by two-fifths of a second over 24 hours.
拿走一枚则会让时钟慢同样的时间。
If you take it off, it slows the clock down by the same amount.
它的作用是抬高重心，
What it does, it actually lifts the centre of gravity,
实际上缩短了钟摆的长度，
and that effectively shortens the pendulum itself,
只需放一枚或拿走一枚硬币。
just by putting a penny on or taking it off.
这样我们就能保持极高的精确度。
That's how we can keep it in with the so-accurate of timekeepers.
这些都是十进制前的硬币。是的。
Those are pre-decimal pennies. Yes.
目前放了大约11枚硬币来保持时间准确。
We have about 11 pennies on there at the moment just to keep it in time.
为什么精确的时钟如此重要？
Why was it so important to have an accurate clock?
基本上是因为铁路。
It is because of the railways, basically.
英国各地有不同的时区，
Britain had time zones all over the place,
普利茅斯的时间最多相差16分钟。
up to 16 minutes away, down in Plymouth.
所以他们想要统一时间。
So they wanted to standardise the time.
如果这里有一个非常精确的时钟，
So if they had one very accurate timekeeper here
格林尼治也有一个，
and one at Greenwich,
他们就能确定格林尼治标准时间，
and that was the way they could come about Greenwich Mean Time,
统一整个英国的时间。
and standardising the whole of the time for Britain.
统一时间让铁路运营
Standardised time made the whole business of running railways
和赶火车变得容易多了。
and catching trains very much easier.
钟摆有15英尺长。
The pendulum is 15ft long.
每两秒摆动一次。
And it ticks every two seconds.
两秒一次的滴答声真是令人放松。太美妙了。
It's such a relaxing sort of sound, the two-second tick. It's fantastic.