英国铁路纪行（2010）

"礼宾主管马克·汉克斯已在这家酒店工作22年。"
'Head concierge, Mark Hanks, has worked at the hotel for the last 22 years.'
这真是约克大公爵的宅邸？是的。
And is this really the Grand Old Duke of York's? Yes.
约克大公爵常来巴斯，确实在这栋房♥子住过一段时间。
The Grand Old Duke of York frequented Bath and actually stayed in this house for some time.
就是那个"率领士兵上山"的公爵？
The one who marched his men to the top of the hill?
是的，从您房♥间就能看到那座山。
Yes, the hill that we can see from your room.
哦！太棒了，谢谢。非常荣幸。
Oh! It's really lovely, thank you. Absolute pleasure.
我帮您放好行李。
I'll just place the case for you.
谢谢。祝您入住愉快，有任何需要请随时呼叫我们。
Thank you. Do enjoy your stay and if there's anything else you need, please give us a call, sir.
非常感谢。荣幸之至。
Thank you very much. Pleasure.
我中头彩了。
I've hit the jackpot.
在国王级（至少是公爵级）的床榻安睡一夜后，
After a night's sleep in a bed fit for a king, or a duke at least,
我继续第三段旅程。
I'm off on the third leg of my journey.
今天我将跟随布拉德肖铁路指南从巴斯前往12英里外的布里斯托尔。
Today I'm following my Bradshaw's Railway Guide from Bath to Bristol, just 12 miles away.
如今规划火车路线很容易，
These days, it's easy to plan your route by train,
但布拉德肖最初编写指南时却面临实际困难。
but when Bradshaw was first writing, there was a real difficulty.
若是在1840年前，我现在就该调表了，
If this were before 1840, I would now be resetting my watch,
因为布里斯托尔时间比伦敦晚10分钟——它位于更西边。
because the time in Bristol is 10 minutes different from London, being that much further west.
对设计高速蒸汽机车的布鲁内尔而言，这成了一大难题。
For Brunel, with his fast-moving steam trains, this was a real problem.
当每个城市时间都不同时，如何制定时刻表？
How do you create a timetable when every city is on a different time?
于是他引入了标准化时间——铁路时间，
And so he introduced a standardised time, railway time,
理论上布里斯托尔与伦敦时间就此统一。
so that notionally the time in Bristol and London would be the same.
现代时区的起源。
The origins of the time zones that we have today.
19世纪40年代编写时刻表时，
Bradshaw used railway time, also known as London time,
布拉德肖采用的就是铁路时间（又称伦敦时间）。
when compiling his timetables in the 1840s.
他说服所有铁路公♥司♥效仿这一做法。
He convinced all the other railway companies to follow suit.
不出十年，全国就统一了时区。
Within 10 years, the whole country was in a single time zone.
布里斯托尔圣殿草地站令人叹为观止。
Bristol Temple Meads is a fantastic station.
巨大的拱顶跨度，典型的维多利亚式铁路建筑。
It's got this enormous span. It's classic Victorian railway architecture.
在全英国都能见到，实际上全世界都是。
You see it all over Britain. You see it all over the world, really.
但这并非布里斯托尔最初的站台。
But this isn't the original station at Bristol.
布鲁内尔设计的终点站——布拉德肖当年抵达的站台
Brunel's terminus, the one Bradshaw would have arrived at
以及后世诸多设计的范本，就在隔壁。
and the model for many future designs, is just next door.
真难以置信。
I can't believe this.
铁路建筑史上的伟大奇迹之一，历史性铁路建筑的瑰宝，
One of the great wonders of railway architecture, of historic railway architecture,
竟藏在这扇平平无奇的门后。
is behind this really unimpressive door.
看看这个。
And just look at this.
建于1830年代。如此巨大的跨度。
Built in the 1830s. This enormous span.
建造这样的结构在当时是难以置信的技术。
This was technology beyond belief, to build a span like this.
这是首次将乘客与列车
The first time that passengers and trains had been
共同容纳在单一屋顶下的设计。
put together under a single roof, under a single shed.
"这种锤梁式设计由两侧横梁而非立柱支撑，
'The design, known as hammer beam, is supported by beams on each side rather than pillars.
"从而留出开阔地面空间便于人流（在这里还包括火车）自♥由♥通行。"
'That leaves the floor space clear to allow for the free flow of crowds and, in this case, trains.'
有趣的是，据说这是世界上最宽的锤梁式屋顶。
It's quite funny for me, because apparently this is the widest hammer-beamed roof in the world.
但我一直以为最宽的在议会大厦，
But I'd always been told the widest one was in Parliament,
实际上它确实很像议会大厦威斯敏斯特厅的屋顶。
and actually it does look like the roof in the Westminster Hall in Parliament.
建造方式相同。
It's built in the same manner.
可以看到火车进站的位置和乘客站立的月台。
You can see where the trains would come in and where people would stand on the platform.
他们得从月台爬下去穿过其他轨道。
They had to climb down from the platform and wander across to the other lines.
并非每条轨道都有专属月台。
You didn't get a platform for every train.
这绝对是建筑史上的杰作。
It's an absolutely fantastic piece of architecture.
却无人得见。
But nobody gets to see it.
布鲁内尔设计的客运棚是现存最古老的
Brunel's passenger shed is the oldest surviving
铁路终点站，如今却可悲地被荒废了。
railway terminus in the world, but now it's sadly neglected.
我正在看布鲁内尔机车♥库♥的正面
I'm looking at the front of Brunel's engine shed
它显然曾有过宏伟的外观。
and it was clearly once a terrific facade.
当然，是伪哥特式的。
It's, of course, fake Gothic.
但这栋建筑已完全破败。
But the building has completely gone to pot.
就像在养老院见到年迈的亲人
It's like seeing an old relative in an old people's home or something
令人痛心，被遗弃，被忽视。
It's really sad, abandoned, neglected.
恐怕没人会多看它一眼。
I don't suppose anybody ever gives it a second look.
然而它却是国家遗产的重要组成部分。
And yet it's a really important piece of national heritage.
非常令人难过。
Very upsetting.
我手中1860年代的指南记载的布里斯托尔，是座通过贸易连接整个帝国的全球都市。
The Bristol of my 1860s guidebook was a global city with trade links throughout the Empire.
这里制♥造♥的货物从人工内陆码头出口到
Goods made here were exported from the man-made inland docks
遥远的北美和西印度群岛等地。
as far afield as North America and the West Indies.
显然布里斯托尔曾是非常重要的港口
So, Bristol was clearly a very important port
但布拉德肖照例也列出了城市的主要产业
but Bradshaw also lists, as he always does for cities,
布里斯托尔显然在制♥造♥业方面
what was made here.
相当重要
And Bristol, obviously, was quite important in manufacturing
"主要制♥造♥业有...发动机、玻璃、帽子、陶器、肥皂和刷子。"
"The chief manufacturers..." it says, "..are engines, glass, hats, pottery, soap and brushes."
如今这些产业大多已消失。早已不复存在。
Well, most of those industries have gone by now. Long since gone.
不过有个行业得到了复兴。
One trade, though, has been revived.
布里斯托尔蓝玻璃。
Bristol blue glass.
詹姆斯？你好，我是迈克尔。
James? Hello. I'm Michael.
"詹姆斯·阿德林顿家族20年前创立了这家蓝玻璃公♥司♥，
'James Adlington and his family started their blue glass company 20 years ago
"试图复兴这门失传的技艺。"
'in a bid to bring back the lost art.'
为什么布里斯托尔与蓝玻璃联♥系♥在一起？
Why is Bristol associated with blue glass?
威廉·库克沃西在德国发现了钴矿，
William Cookworthy discovered cobalt in Germany,
布里斯托尔商业冒险家垄断了钴矿贸易。
and the Bristol Merchant Venturers bought the monopoly on the cobalt.
有位玻璃匠人取了些钴矿
And one of the class makers grabbed some cobalt and
加入铅玻璃中。效果惊艳。
threw it into the lead glass. With a great result.
效果惊艳——呈现出鲜艳的蓝色。
With a great result - a really vibrant blue.
这些是什么？是擀面杖。属于"福利品"。
And these are what? These are rolling pins. They're friggers.
卖♥♥给即将出海的水手
They'd sell them to the sailors who were going off in the ships
水手会送给妻子挂在窗前
They would give them to their wives who would hang them in the window.
护身符？保佑平安归来的护身符。
A lucky charm? A lucky charm to make sure they'd come back safely.
现在还是人工吹制吗？是的。
And this stuff is still blown, is it? Yes.
能参观下吗？当然。
Do you mind if I have a look? Of course.
"要像维多利亚时代那样制♥作♥玻璃，学习期可长达七年，
'It can take up to seven years to learn how to make glass as the Victorians did,
"所以詹姆斯将教我制♥作♥简单的平底杯。"
'so James is showing me how to make a simple tumbler.'
您坐下，我把这个拿过来。再拿起工具。
You go and sit down and I'll bring that back to you. Pick up your tools again.
哪个？这个？对，就是它。
Which one? This one? Yes. That's it.
"熔炉温度堪比火山，
'The furnaces reach volcanic temperatures.
"用于熔化玻璃原料，然后就可以用吹管收集玻璃液。"
'They're used to make the molten glass, which can then be gathered onto the blowpipe.'
用力吹。
A good, hard blow.
就这样。抱歉。
That's it. Sorry about that.
别全放进去。
Don't put it all in there.
让它...用镊子夹住。
Just let it...get it on to the pick.
重新定中心。
And let it fall on centre again.
瞧。
Voila.
放进窑炉烤到今晚5点熄火
So I put it into an oven until about 5 o'clock tonight when it gets turned off
然后自然冷却一夜
and it's allowed to cool down overnight.
如果玻璃立即冷却会怎样？
What would happen if the glass cooled immediately?
如果直接放着，就会开裂。会吗？是的。
If you just left it on the side, it would just crack. Would it? Yeah.
冷却过程太剧烈了。我真的很享受这个过程。
The cooling process would be too brutal for it. I really enjoyed that.
非常感谢。我非常非常佩服。
Thank you very much. I'm very, very impressed.
说实话，真心佩服。
I've got to be honest, I really am.
五体投地。
Truly impressed.
布拉德肖时代，经码头流通的不只是玻璃
In Bradshaw's time, it wasn't just glass passing through the docks
与大西部铁路合作期间，
Working with the Great Western Railway,
布鲁内尔开♥发♥了国际联运服务。
Brunel developed an integrated international travel service.
乘客可从伦敦乘火车到布里斯托尔，
Passengers could take the train from London to Bristol,
再转乘公♥司♥的蒸汽船继续前往纽约，
then continue to New York on the company's steamship,
即同样由他设计的"大不列颠"号♥。
the SS Great Britain, also designed by him.
嗨，你是汤姆？是的。幸会。你好吗？很好，谢谢。
Hi, you're Tom? Yes. Good to see you. How are you? Very good, thanks.
"渡轮运营商汤姆·阿克森将带我去参观。"
'Ferry operator Tom Axon is taking me to see it.'
从圣殿草地站到跨洋蒸汽船的
How far is it from Temple Meads station to the dock
出发码头有多远？
from which the transatlantic steamers would have left?
到"大不列颠"号♥建造地约一英里多。
Well, there's just over a mile to where the SS Great Britain was built.
1843年，"大不列颠"号♥在大西部铁路船坞建造。
In 1843, the SS Great Britain was constructed in the dockyards of the Great Western Railway.
布鲁内尔的设计是世界首艘蒸汽动力轮船。
Brunel's design was the first steam-powered ship in the world.
他说服管理层投资建造跨洋铁甲巨轮。
He persuaded the bosses to invest in a super ship made out of wrought iron to cross the ocean.
这闻所未闻。
That was unheard of.
马上就能看到"大不列颠"号♥吗？就是那艘。
Are we going to see the SS Great Britain in a moment? That's it there.
"'大不列颠'号♥最初为跨洋豪华客运打造，
'The SS Great Britain was built for the transatlantic luxury passenger trade,
"仅载客252人，分头等舱和二等舱。
'carrying just 252 travellers in first and second class.
"但这项服务并不盈利。
'But the service didn't make money.
"最终被改造成可运送三倍乘客的移♥民♥船，开往澳大利亚。"
'She was eventually converted to carry three times that number on emigrant runs to Australia.'
"大不列颠"号♥是铁制船体，配备螺旋桨，
So the SS Great Britain, it's an iron-built ship, it's got propellers,
但还有六根桅杆。为什么？为了高效。
but it's also got six masts. Why? For efficiency.