英国铁路纪行（2010）

Great British Railway Journeys S01E09

Part 1 Aug. 24, 2025, 4:25 p.m.

1840年，一位英国人彻底改变了出行方式
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain.
他名叫乔治·布拉德肖
His name was George Bradshaw,
其铁路指南激励维多利亚时代的人们踏上铁轨之旅
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks.
他逐站指引旅行路线、观光景点
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see
与住宿推荐
and where to stay.
170年后的今天，我将沿着这本古老指南
Now, 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length and breadth of the country
横跨不列颠进行四次长途旅行，探访布拉德肖笔下的遗存
to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.
手持150年前的布拉德肖铁路指南
Steered by Bradshaw's, my 150-year-old guide
我再次启程北上
to railway travel in Britain,
前往边境地区
I'm headed north again to the Borders.
今日行程：探访卡莱尔边境部族
Today I'll be finding out about the wild Border clans of Carlisle.
这块石碑刻着格拉斯哥大主教对当地家族的诅咒
The stone is the Archbishop of Glasgow's curse on all these families,
因我们祖先恶行累累
because we got up to wicked deeds.
我将闯入一场婚礼
I'll be crashing a wedding.
格特纳格林对你有特殊意义吗？现在有了
Does Gretna Green have a special feeling for you? It does now.
绝对意义非凡过了今天更会如此
It definitely does. After today it will, yes.
还将探访绝密军工厂
And I'll be visiting a top-secret munitions factory.
"魔鬼粥"是什么东西？
What was this thing called devil's porridge?
那是无烟火♥药♥与炸♥药♥的混合物当时主要由女性手工调配
Devil's porridge was a mixture of cordite and explosive, mainly mixed by hand by women at the time.
本周我一直从普雷斯顿北上
All this week, I've been heading north from Preston,
穿越英格兰西部
up the west of England.
此刻正驶入曾无法无天的边境地带
I'm now travelling into the once-lawless frontier country
卡莱尔周边
around Carlisle,
继而进入苏格兰前往柯科迪
before crossing into Scotland and moving on to Kirkcaldy.
今日将停留卡莱尔
Today I'll stop in Carlisle,
接着前往格特纳格林
then carry on to Gretna Green,
终点站格拉斯哥
before ending my journey in Glasgow.
我常乘飞机赴苏格兰
I often visit Scotland, frequently by air,
即便乘火车也匆匆掠过边境
but even when I go by rail, I rush through the Borders.
从未想过驻足探访
I never think of stopping there.
今日我要慢下来领略此地风情
Today I'll be intrigued just to linger and see what's there.
1847年铁路开通时
When the first trains arrived in 1847,
乘客需在卡莱尔换乘
passengers had to change at Carlisle,
使其成为全国最繁忙的车站之一
making it one of the busiest stations in the country.
这座宏伟车站拥有哥特式拱门
This magnificent station, with its Gothic arches
机车铭牌
and with the plaques from locomotives
各线路标识
and different railway lines,
既是维多利亚时代的奇迹
it's a Victorian wonder and a railway museum
也是通往苏格兰的门户
and gateway to Scotland.
卡莱尔的公共建筑都如城♥堡♥般坚固
In Carlisle, even the public buildings are built like castles,
昭示着这曾是战火纷飞之地
suggesting that this has long been a warlike place
悍民聚居之域
with fearsome peoples.
七百余年间英格兰与苏格兰
For over 700 years, the English and the Scots
为争夺卡莱尔城♥堡♥鏖战不休
battled for control of Carlisle and its castle.
直到1745年末次苏格兰起义才被镇♥压♥
It wasn't until 1745 that the last Scottish uprising was put down.
可知卡莱尔建筑为何形似城♥堡♥？
Do you know why the buildings in Carlisle are like castles?
为抵御皮克特人和苏格兰人吧？
Because it was needed to be a defence from the Picts and the Scots, wouldn't they?
皮克特人与苏格兰人
The Picts and the Scots.
那时民风彪悍彪悍？极其彪悍
There were vicious people in those days. Vicious? Very vicious.
厮杀不断没错刀光剑影唉太可怕了
Battling it out. Yeah, battling it out, really, oooh, terrible.
我拜访艺术家戈登·杨
I've come to Carlisle to find out more about its troubled history
探寻边境秘史
from artist Gordon Young.
早啊戈登！早上好
Morning, Gordon! Good morning.
来到卡莱尔真让我惊喜
Do you know, I'm delighted to be in Carlisle.
没想到这座城市如此美丽
I had no idea it was such a beautiful city.
确实是个漂亮城市
I think it's a really bonny city.
这里历经战火
It's been fought over.
争夺战反复上演
It's been fought over time and time again.
两国都宣称拥有主♥权♥
Both countries have laid good claim to it.
苏格兰国王在此加冕
Scottish kings crowned in Carlisle.
英格兰议会曾设于此
An English parliament's been in Carlisle.
战略地位举足轻重
Strategically, it had importance and significance.
效忠英格兰王室吗？不谁占领就效忠谁
Loyal to the English crown, was it? No, loyal to whatever army's in it that particular time.
但还有群人不属于任何一方
But there was another group that was neither English nor Scots.
在布拉德肖指南里
I hadn't heard of the Reivers living along the border
我才知道边境"盗马贼"的存在
until I read about them in my Bradshaw's guide.
戈登正是他们的后裔
Gordon is one of their descendants.
2001年戈登受托创作这块石刻
In 2001, Gordon was commissioned to make this stone sculpture
纪念被遗忘的先民
as a tribute to his ancestors, a forgotten people.
何为边境盗马贼？
Who were the Border Reivers?
即居住在现代边境线两侧的家族
They were the families that lived either side of what we now acknowledge as the border.
古时边境并非一条细线
The border, centuries ago, wasn't a single strip.
而是在现今边界70英里范围内浮动
It was within 70 miles of what we currently know.
四百年前
400 years ago,
英格兰与苏格兰的边界变动不居
the frontier between the English and the Scots shifted constantly,
争夺领土不休
as they vied for territory.
盗马贼活跃在这片三不管地带
The Reivers operated within that no-man's-land
将无法无天发挥到极致
and took full advantage of its lawless state.
他们是怎样的人？
What kind of people were they?
这里土地贫瘠
Well, it's not good agricultural land.
硬土养悍民
It was hard land with hard people,
他们劫掠奸♥淫♥ 无恶不作
and they were pillaging, raping, robbing, thieving,
盗马贼们杀人越货
the Reivers were bereaving
敲诈勒索当然
and blackmailing and stealing and, of course,
执行英格兰法律会引发战争
to enforce English law would be a war.
执行苏格兰法律也会开战
To enforce Scottish law would be a war,
因为边界何在？
because where's the border?
匪患因此猖獗
Therefore this banditry was in the area.
这就是我们血腥混乱的边境遗产
This was our Border heritage, which was rough, tumble and bloody.
不效忠任何国家
Neither Scottish nor English,
盗马贼只效忠本部落
each Reiver swore allegiance only to his clan.
这些家族姓氏
So these were the families and the family names
源自特定山谷村镇
from specific valleys, towns, villages,
欧文、卡迈克尔、约翰斯顿、尼克松、迪克森
whether it's Irvine, Carmichael, Johnston, Nixon, Dixon,
特罗特、布莱克阿德
Trotter, Blackadder.
还有你的姓氏杨
Here's your name, Young.
对约90个姓氏
Yeah. There's about 90-odd names
被认定为边境盗马贼家族
that are recognised as the families of the Borders, the Reivers.
后裔中不乏名人
There are also some very famous descendants,
如理查德·尼克松与尼尔·阿姆斯特朗
like Richard Nixon and Neil Armstrong.
这块石碑又是什么来历？
And then this stone. What's that about?
这是格拉斯哥大主教对所有边境家族的诅咒
The stone is the Archbishop of Glasgow's curse on all these families,
因我们祖先恶贯满盈
because we got up to wicked deeds.
1525年大主教写下千字诅咒
The Archbishop wrote his 1,000-word curse in 1525,
企图用疾病灾祸惩罚盗马贼的罪行
hoping that disease and misfortune could avenge the Reivers' crimes.
用方言说就是：诅咒他们站卧行止皆不得安宁
As somebody with a good dialect would say, it curses them standand and gangand and sittand and rydand.
诅咒他们的卷心菜诅咒他们的头颅
It curses cabbages, it curses their heads.
堪称史上最全面的诅咒
This is really a pretty comprehensive curse.
足有好几页呢这只是片段
Oh, there's pages of it. This is a fragment.
一小部分而已
That's a fragment.
诅咒内容绵延不绝大主教考虑得相当周全
It goes on and on and on. He was very thorough.
几乎没什么能逃过这强大诅咒
There wasn't many things where he wasn't giving this great curse,
堪称欧洲文学瑰宝
and it is an incredible piece of, I think, European literature,
更不必说苏格兰或北英格兰了
let alone Scottish or northern British.
布拉德肖用古称"沼地骑兵"
Bradshaw refers to the Reiver clans by their ancient name,
称呼这些盗马贼
the Moss-troopers,
他们生活在嶙峋山峦
who lived in a wild landscape of rugged, rocky mountains
与秀丽山谷交织的蛮荒之地
thrown together with beautiful valleys.
许多盗马贼后裔仍居于此
Many Reiver families still live here,
通过戈登的"盗马贼情报网"
and through Gordon's Reiver grapevine,
我得知霍尔班克盖特村有场聚会
I've found out about a party taking place in the village of Hallbankgate.
几百年前这里正是盗马贼势力核心区
A few centuries ago, this would have been the very heart of Reiver territory.
我来体验边境人的热情好客
I've come to sample Borders hospitality,
探寻传说中的沼地骑兵
and to find out how the fearsome Moss-troopers sounded
欢庆时的真实模样
when they were in party mood.
[民谣音乐]
FOLK MUSIC
天呐这些巨型蔬菜太惊人了
Good Lord, an amazing display of giant vegetables.
你们好！嗨最近怎么样？还不错
Hello! Hi. How are you doing? OK, thank you.
这是在比赛吗？
So what - obviously a competition?
村民们竟在举♥行♥温和的蔬菜大赛
Bizarrely, the locals are engaged in a gentle vegetable contest.