英国铁路纪行（2010）

Phew! Just made it.
利物浦至曼彻斯特铁路开通时的欢庆气氛
Well, the party atmosphere of the opening of the Manchester to Liverpool railway line
被布拉德肖所称的"一起不幸事件"彻底破坏
was pretty much spoilt when, at the opening ceremony, there was what Bradshaw called...
"尊敬的威廉·赫斯基森先生遭遇惨剧"
"a lamentable accident to the Right Honourable William Huskisson".
赫斯基森时任贸易委员会主席，内阁成员。
Huskisson was President of the Board of Trade. He was a member of the Cabinet.
开通仪式上他被
And at the opening ceremony, he was hit
史蒂芬森的"火箭号♥"撞击受伤。
by Stephenson's Rocket and he was injured.
人们将他抬上火车
They loaded him onto the train.
送往我即将抵达的埃克尔斯
They took him to Eccles, where I'm headed now.
最终不治身亡，成为全球首位
But he died, and so a cabinet minister became the first...
铁路事故遇难的内阁大臣。
railway fatality anywhere in the world.
终点站埃克尔斯位于利物浦-曼彻斯特线另一端。
My last stop is Eccles, towards the other end of the Liverpool to Manchester line.
这段铁路充满工程创举
This stretch of railway is full of engineering firsts,
比如乔治·史蒂芬森建造的桑基高架桥。
like the Sankey Viaduct, built by one George Stephenson.
期待探访埃克尔斯，布拉德肖写道...
Well, I'm looking forward to Eccles, because Bradshaw says...
"这个小村庄风景如画"
"this little village is prettily situated
"坐落于厄尔韦尔河北岸"
"on the northern banks of the Irwell
"周边遍布绝佳徒步路线"
"and environed by some of the most picturesque rambles".
听起来令人神往。
It sounds charming.
风景步道往哪走？
Which way for the picturesque rambles?
哎呀！21世纪的埃克尔斯已今非昔比。
Whoops! The 21st century caught up with Eccles.
1860年代前，埃克尔斯只是几间农舍组成的小村落。
Up to the 1860s, Eccles was barely more than a few cottages.
但当世界首条客运铁路穿村而过
But when the world's first passenger railway was routed through it,
村庄的命运就此改变。
the village's fate was sealed.
很快被吞并成为曼彻斯特郊区。
It was soon swallowed up into the suburbs of Manchester.
如今仍有些许绿地点缀其间
There are still some patches of greenery left,
比如广阔的沃斯利庄园。
like the vast estate of Worsley Hall.
庄园始建于16世纪，维多利亚时期改建
The hall dates back to the 16th century, but was re-modelled
最终变成了酒馆。
in Victorian times and eventually turned into a pub.
布拉德肖指南称其属于"著名的布里奇沃特公爵"。
My Bradshaw's guide says it belonged to "the celebrated Duke of Bridgewater".
酒馆告示显示老宅已焚毁
So, the notice in the pub tells me that the old hall burnt down
其历史主人对工程学颇有研究。
and its historic owner had a great interest in engineering.
明日我将探索布拉德肖
So, tomorrow, I shall explore what was for Bradshaw
仅次于铁路的另一大热情所在——运河。
a passion almost as great as railways, that is to say canals.
布拉德肖早年绘制英国运河地图
Bradshaw started his life mapping Britain's canals,
后转向铁路，因此运河发源地沃斯利令他格外关注。
before he moved on to railways, and so Worsley was of great interest to him as the birthplace of the canal.
布拉德肖指南关注所有伟大工程。
Bradshaw's guide is interested in all great feats of construction.
此处记载："已故埃尔斯米尔伯爵继承了著名"
It says of this spot, "The late Earl of Ellesmere inherited the vast estates of the celebrated
"布里奇沃特公爵的广阔领地，工程师布林德利在此首开地下运河"
"Duke of Bridgewater, for whom Brindley, the engineer, first made the subterranean canals here.
"运河深180英尺"
"They supply the coal mines below, at a depth of 180 feet,
"蜿蜒18英里连通煤矿"
"and wind in and out for about 18 miles."
这项工程壮举必定启发了后来的铁路建设者
That prodigious feat of engineering must have inspired the railway builders of later years, and,
而具有讽刺意味的是，铁路最终取代了运河。
ironically, the railways were then to put the canals out of business.
这些地下水道属于
These underground waterways were part of
布里奇沃特运河系统，堪称英国最早运河。
the Bridgewater canal system, arguably the first in Britain.
建造目的是将公爵煤矿的煤炭
They were built to carry coal directly from the Duke's mines
直接运出，省去
at Worsley without going to the expense of
提升至地面的成本。
bringing it to the surface.
这片水塘呈棕橙色
This pool is browny-orange,
说明水源仍来自矿井。
telling us that this water still comes up from the mine.
如今虽看不出什么，但自1761年起
You can't see much now, but from 1761, barges laden with coal
运煤驳船就从那里驶出
would have emerged from there
这片水塘曾是早期工业活动的中心。
and this pool would have been a hive of early industrial activity.
显然，埃克尔斯村自布拉德肖时代已巨变
Clearly, what was the village of Eccles has changed a lot since Bradshaw's guide.
但指南也记载埃克尔斯以蛋糕闻名，这点始终未变。
But the guide also notes that Eccles is celebrated for its cakes, and that hasn't changed at all.
伊恩·埃德蒙森是兰开夏埃克尔斯蛋糕的生产总监。
Ian Edmondson is the production director of Lancashire Eccles Cakes.
您家族制♥作♥埃克尔斯蛋糕多久了？
How long has your family been involved in making Eccles cakes?
始于1920年代，祖父从当地面包店
I suppose it started in the 1920s, when my grandad went round the local
采购蛋糕后用马车运至
bakers' shops buying cakes and then he'd put them on his horse-drawn cart
曼彻斯特街角的杂货店销♥售♥。
and he'd sell them at the local shops on the corners of the streets of Manchester.
后来家族决定自己生产
And then the family decided it would be better if they actually made the cakes,
便开设了蛋糕作坊。能参观制♥作♥过程吗？
so they set a bakery up making the cakes. Can we see how they're made?
当然可以。先看看原料。
Of course, yes. First, I'll show you the ingredients.
这是埃克尔斯蛋糕最重要的原料
As you see here, this is the most important ingredient in an Eccles cake -
顶级品质的葡萄干。
a really, really good-quality currant.
这些沃斯蒂扎葡萄干产自希腊艾吉翁地区
These are Vostizza and they're from a place in Aeghion, in Greece.
标注着"原产地保护认证"
You'll see it says "Protected designation of origin."
就像香槟地区对葡萄品种的保护
Now, this is just like Champagne, where they don't allow another grape to come out of that area.
这里也是同样标准。
Yes. This is the same with here.
品质保证。确实如此。
A guarantee of quality. Yes, it is.
还有砂糖...
And then we've got sugar...
原料很简单：砂糖、更多葡萄干、红糖...
Yeah, just simple ingredients. That's all that's in the product.
红糖。少许盐...
It's sugar, more currants, brown sugar...
盐。以及大量黄油。
Brown sugar. ..a bit of salt...
Salt. ..and lots of butter.
哇！完全是另一个世界对吧？
Wow! It's a whole different world, isn't it?
简直不可思议不是吗？
I know, it's absolutely fantastic, isn't it?
五六十年前这里是什么景象？
What would it have been like here, I don't know, 50, 60 years ago?
六十多年前的制♥作♥方式是
The way they'd have made the cakes 60-odd years ago would have been
在大圆桌上堆起葡萄干
on a big, round table, a big pile of currants in the middle.
每人分块面团
Everyone gets a little bit of pastry,
包成小布袋状
puts it in and then starts folding it into a little dolly bag
用模具定型后装盘
and then knocking it in rings and then putting them on trays.
相比现在效率很低。
So, quite inefficient, compared to how we make them now.
如今全流程自动化生产。
Yeah, because now, it's all coming down the process line.
嗨！嗨。看起来挺复杂。
Hi! Hi. That looks quite complicated.
其实很简单。
No, it's easy, really.
先把四个角往中间折...
Just put all the four corners to the middle...
对。再折边。
Yeah. ..and then the sides.
戴上手套试试？好啊。
OK. If you'd like to have a go, put these gloves on. Yeah, sure.
祝你好运。嗯！外科医生般的手法！四个角...
I wish you luck, anyway. Yeah! Surgeon's hands! So, four corners...
啊！..折向中间。对。然后两边往里...
Aaah! ..into the middle. Yeah. And then fold the side bits in as...
天呐。有点惨不忍♥睹对吧？是啊。
Oh, Lord. Oh, that's a bit of a mess, isn't it? Yeah.
成型后送入
And once they come off the line there,
烤箱烘烤，出炉后送至包装间冷却打包。
they get baked in these ovens, taken out and taken into the packing room for cooling, then packing.
这里能闻到浓郁的埃克尔斯蛋糕香吧？
This is really where you get the strong smell of the Eccles cake, isn't it?
所有原料的香气完美融合。
Yeah, you get that fantastic smell. It's all the flavours coming together of the ingredients.
日产量多少？
How many Eccles cakes are you producing?
约15万个。
We're producing about 150,000 Eccles cakes a day.
算是全英最受欢迎的六大蛋糕之一
In fact, it's probably in the top six most popular cakes.
年产量约四千万个。
That's about, er, 40 million a year, or something.
你说了算！
Yes! I'll take your word for that.
想尝尝正宗兰开夏埃克尔斯蛋糕吗？就等你这句话了。
Would you like to try a real Lancashire Eccles cake? I thought you'd never ask. Yes, please.
香气诱人。
Lovely aroma.
折得真漂亮。
Beautifully folded, by the way.
是你做的吗？
Is it one of yours?
才不是！
No!
嗯，这个...
Mmm, it's...
太美味了。
It's wonderful.
好吃到犯规。你看里面...
It's wicked. It's, erm...
葡萄干排列得多整齐。
Look at the lovely row of currants inside.
尝得出黄油和砂糖吗？
Can you taste the butter and the sugar?
开玩笑？当然！满满的黄油香和砂糖甜。
Are you kidding? Of course I can! Absolutely buttery and sugary.
很高兴了解这款历史悠久的蛋糕。
I'm really pleased to have looked into this very historic cake.
浓缩了几个世纪的历史。
Centuries of history in this cake.
超♥市♥里唯一在埃克尔斯五英里范围内
Yeah, and the fantastic thing about it is that it's the only Eccles cake
生产的正宗埃克尔斯蛋糕。
you'll get in a supermarket that's made within five miles of Eccles.
如假包换。
The genuine article. Of course, yes.
这种美味糕点风靡全国后
The delicious pastries became so popular, they were transported to
通过火车运往各地市场，在站台销♥售♥。
markets up and down the country by train and sold on station platforms.
甚至远销美国和西印度群岛
They were even exported to America and the West Indies
为保鲜还添加了白兰地。
and were laced with brandy to help them last the journey.
但这种保鲜方法惹了麻烦。
But that method of preservation got the cakes into trouble.
看似无害的埃克尔斯蛋糕
The apparently innocuous Eccles cake has been
因与狂欢活动关联，一度被克伦威尔禁止。
associated with merrymaking, so much so that at one time, Cromwell banned the Eccles cake.
19世纪又因添加白兰地惹祸
And it got into trouble again in the 19th century, because they used to put brandy in the cakes,
据说有位火车司机
and it's thought that one railway driver
吃蛋糕醉到跌落驾驶台。
got so drunk on eating Eccles cakes that he fell off his footplate.
此后埃克尔斯周边车站
And thereafter, the sale of liquor and the sale of Eccles cakes
禁售酒精饮品和埃克尔斯蛋糕。
was banned at all the stations around Eccles.
铁路运输的不只是埃克尔斯蛋糕这类商品。
It wasn't only goods like the Eccles cake that the railways transported around the world.