英国铁路纪行（2010）

1840年，一个人改变了英国的旅行方式。
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain.
他名叫乔治·布拉德肖，
His name was George Bradshaw,
他的铁路指南激励维多利亚时代的人们踏上铁轨之旅。
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks.
他逐站告知人们该去哪里旅行、看什么景点、住什么地方。
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see, and where to stay.
170年后的今天，我将横跨英国南北东西，
Now, 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length
进行四次长途旅行，探寻布拉德肖笔下英国的遗存。
and breadth of the country to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.
本周我的第一段旅程始于
My first journey this week begins
德比郡峰区辽阔壮丽的原野，
in the gorgeous open spaces of Derbyshire, the Peak District,
以及迷人的小镇巴克斯顿。
and the wonderful town of Buxton.
很快我将深入
Before long I'll be penetrating
英国工业革命的核心地带——
the heart of Britain's Industrial Revolution -
伯顿、德比、伯明翰，探寻那些曾运送
Burton, Derby, Birmingham - and thinking about trains that carried
煤炭矿产与乘客的铁路线，
coal and minerals as well as passengers,
随后前往伦敦周边郡县，
before going on to the Home Counties,
最终抵达首都伦敦。
and eventually to the nation's capital - ending up in London.
沿途我将探索一些隐秘的建筑瑰宝。
'Along the way, I'll be exploring some hidden architectural gems.'
这太庞大了。
It is huge.
规模堪比罗马圣彼得大教堂？比它还大！不！真的！
Are we talking St Peter's Cathedral in Rome? Larger than! No! Yes.
探寻峰区自布拉德肖时代以来的地貌变迁。
Finding out how the landscape of the Peak District has changed since Bradshaw's time.
工业革命——燃煤工业——彻底破坏了沼泽地表。
The Industrial Revolution - the coal-fired industries - basically destroyed the bog surface.
同时重温我童年的怀旧之旅。
And taking a nostalgic trip back into my childhood.
一踏上月台，我就闻到了火车头的熟悉气息。
From the moment I arrived on this platform, I got that scent of railway engine.
我年岁已长，仍记得蒸汽机车牵引的列车，
I'm old enough to remember trains pulled by steam engines
这瞬间把我带回了童年时光。
and it just took me straight back to my childhood.
本周我将全程沿英格兰最早的铁路线之一，
All this week, I'm travelling from Buxton along one of the
从巴克斯顿出发，这条最初为南北货运修建的铁路。
earliest railway routes in England, first built to transport freight from north to south.
每天我都会停靠在布拉德肖指南推荐的
Each day, I'll be stopping at towns and cities recommended
城镇市集，直至终点站伦敦。
by Bradshaw's guide, until I reach the end of the line in London.
今天我将行进前40英里，抵达霍姆莫斯，
Today, I'll be covering the first 40 miles, to Holme Moss
然后穿越峰区，经米勒斯谷抵达马特洛克巴斯。
then on through the Peak District via Millers Dale to Matlock Bath.
第一站是英格兰海拔最高的市集小镇——巴克斯顿。
My first stop is at England's highest market town, Buxton.
18世纪，巴克斯顿因著名温泉崛起为高端度假胜地。
Buxton sprang to life as an upmarket resort in the 18th century, on the back of its famous spa.
富裕游客慕名而来，寻求当地知名泉水的疗效。
The well-to-do visitors came for the curative effects of the famous local spring water.
布拉德肖告诉我，这里有一处喷泉提供巴克斯顿泉水。
As Bradshaw tells me, I will find a fountain which gives us the Buxton waters.
他描述泉水清澈无味。
He says the water is clear and tasteless.
泉水还是温热的。
It's also warm.
布拉德肖称其具有提神效果。
And, says Bradshaw, has a stimulating effect.
我得留意这点。
I must watch out for that.
据说该泉水对痛风和风湿症特别有效。
The water was said to be especially good for gout and rheumatism.
如今，这座被称为圣安井的喷泉仍吸引着寻求疗愈的人们。
Today, the fountain, known as St Ann's Well, still attracts people looking for a cure.
看您接得很认真，装了四升水？
I see you're really going for it, you're filling up...
四升水？
four litres of water?
对健康有帮助吗？
Does it do you good?
讲个故事：我们曾养过一只瘫痪的腊肠犬。
I'll give you a story. We had a dachshund and it went off its legs.
兽医说无能为力。
The vet said we couldn't do anything for it.
有人推荐这水对风湿有效。
Somebody said that it's good for rheumatism.
我们给狗喂这水后，它竟康复行走，
We thought, we'll get some of this for the dog. The dog's legs mended, and he walked,
又活了五年。
and he lived for another five years.
太神奇了，看来我得再多喝点。
That's fantastic. I'd better have some more, I think.
非常感谢。谢谢。
Thank you very much. Thank you.
巴克斯顿18世纪鼎盛时期的摄政风格建筑大多保存完好，
Many of the Regency buildings from Buxton's 18th-century heyday
赋予小镇庄重典雅的气质。
as a spa town are still in place, giving Buxton a stately and graceful feel.
布拉德肖对巴克斯顿不吝赞美。
Bradshaw is enthusiastic about Buxton.
"坐落于德比郡风景最旖旎的区域，
"Situated in the midst of one of the most picturesque parts of Derbyshire,
新月楼是巴克斯顿的主要建筑。"
"the Crescent is the principle building at Buxton."
"由已故德文郡公爵建造，三层结构，延伸257英尺。"
"It was erected by the late Duke Of Devonshire and has three storeys, and extends for 257 feet."
新月楼建于1780年代初，由建筑师约翰·伍德仿照巴斯新月楼设计。
Built in the early 1780s, the Crescent was a direct copy of the one in Bath, by architect John Wood.
内设舞厅、集♥会♥厅、
It housed a ballroom, assembly rooms,
精品店和时尚酒店，
shops and fashionable hotels,
以及公爵的住所。
as well as a house for the Duke.
巴克斯顿经历摄政时期辉煌后，
After Buxton had had a Regency heyday,
在维多利亚时代再度复兴，建有美丽的市政公园、
it then had a Victorian revival, with a lovely municipal park,
植物园和歌♥剧院。
botanical gardens and an opera house.
这只是个小城镇，却拥有歌♥剧院。
This is a small town we're talking about, and it has an opera house.
太不可思议了。
It's fantastic.
我曾两次造访巴克斯顿歌♥剧院，一次是多年前观看
I've been to the opera house in Buxton twice, once years ago
莫扎特歌♥剧，另一次是去演讲。
for a Mozart opera, and once to make a speech.
1863年铁路通达后，
When the railways reached Buxton in 1863,
这座北方温泉小镇迎来第二次繁荣。
this northern spa town boomed for the second time.
为接待大批新游客，德文郡公爵带头兴建新景点。
To cater for the trainloads of new visitors, The Duke of Devonshire led the building of new attractions.
此后40年间，歌♥剧院、亭园
Over the next 40 years, the opera house, the Pavilion Gardens
和宏伟的皇宫酒店相继落成，
and the huge Palace Hotel all sprang up,
均由巴克斯顿市民自筹资金建造。
funded by the citizens of Buxton themselves.
这些维多利亚时期的景点基本保留原貌，
These Victorian attractions look pretty much as they did
至今仍全年吸引游客前来。
in Bradshaw's time, and still bring tourists to Buxton all year round.
公爵建造的另一地标——非凡的马厩建筑群，主宰着小镇天际线。
Another landmark built by the Duke dominates Buxton's skyline - his extraordinary stables.
这是巴克斯顿最宏伟的建筑之一，
This is one of Buxton's most magnificent buildings, and
布拉德肖记载："这是德文郡公爵的大型马厩。"
Bradshaw says, "These are the large stables of the Duke of Devonshire."
他热衷数据："耗资12万英镑建造。"
He loves to give figures. "Built at a cost of £120,000."
布拉德肖对此颇为震惊。
Bradshaw is quite shocked by that.
相当于如今500万英镑，用于建马厩确实惊人。
£5 million in today's money, for stables, that is quite something.
还有布拉德肖未提及的宏伟穹顶。
And a fantastic dome, which Bradshaw doesn't mention.
真是美轮美奂。
This is really beautiful.
没想到有如此精美的环廊。
I hadn't expected this lovely colonnade, all the way around.
没想到采光这么好，穹顶顶部
I hadn't expected so much light, because the top of the dome
全是玻璃，光线洒满整个穹顶空间。
is completely glass, and light enters all the way around the dome. Oh!
还有回声效果。
And I've got an echo.
回声。
Echo.
回声。
Echo.
如今这里是大学校区，阿德里安·布朗是校友。
Today, the building is a university campus and Adrian Brown is a former student.
难以置信这座巨厦曾是马厩，更难以置信马厩会有穹顶。
I can't believe this huge building was a stable, and I can't believe that a stable has a dome.
实际上最初1790年建造时并无穹顶。
In fact, it didn't. The original building, as a stables, was created in 1790.
人们会惊讶地发现，近一个世纪后第七代公爵与建筑师罗伯特·里彭·杜克
People can be a little surprised to learn that it was nearly a century later before the building acquires
才为建筑加冕了这座穹顶。
the dome, thanks to the efforts of the 7th Duke and his architect, Robert Rippon Duke.
就在穹顶建造期间，发生了泰桥惨剧。
Just as he was creating this dome, the Tay Bridge disaster happened.
1879年12月末的暴风雨中，76人丧生。
76 people died during the storm in later December of 1879.
泰桥事故对穹顶建造产生重大影响。
The Tay Bridge disaster was to have a huge impact on the building of the dome.
冬季暴风雨之夜，通往邓迪的泰桥突然坍塌，
One night during a violent winter storm, the railway bridge across the Tay to Dundee suddenly collapsed.
使用还不到两年。
It was less than two years old.
工程师发现桥梁因铆钉与孔洞
Engineers discovered that the bridge had failed because the rivets weren't
未对齐而在狂风中断裂。
lined up properly with the holes and had sheared off in high winds.
担心穹顶采用相同工艺建造，
Fearing that the same methods were being used to build the dome,
建筑师罗伯特立即叫停工程。
Architect Robert Rippon Duke immediately halted work.
罗伯特担忧的是穹顶结构与
What Robert Rippon Duke was concerned about was the fact
泰桥极为相似——都是铸铁结构，
that the construction of the dome was very similar
通过螺栓铆接在石基上。
to that of the Tay Bridge, in that it was a cast-iron construction,
我能看到这些螺栓铆钉。
bolted and riveted to a stone base.
维多利亚时代这种结构的组装方式，
I can see the bolts and rivets.
虽要求精密公差，但螺栓孔未必完全吻合。
The way in which the Victorians would have bolted a structure together like this,
此时需强行插入螺栓——当时称为"漂移入栓"。
it was made to tight tolerances, but nevertheless, the bolt holes didn't necessarily coincide.
有些螺栓需加热至赤红软化状态，
In that case, the bolt had to be forced, or as the Victorians called it, drifting in the bolt.
再锤击就位。
The bolts in some cases were heated up to almost red heat, so they
罗伯特赶回工地叫停施工，
became molten, almost plastic in their nature, before they were then hammered into place.
拆换所有螺栓，重新钻孔组装，
Robert Rippon Duke came rushing back to the building and stopped work.
确保130多年后建筑依然坚固。
He had all the bolts taken out, the holes re-drilled where necessary.
谢天谢地，潜在灾难得以避免。
Then the whole thing was put back together again,
确实如此。
with the effect that 130-odd years on, the building is extremely sound.
这次教训改变了维多利亚时代的建造方式，
So thank goodness - potentially, a second disaster was averted.
促成诸多工程奇迹。
Correct.
穹顶重560吨♥，
The lessons learned changed the way the Victorians built,
跨度达145英尺。
and helped them achieve some incredible feats of engineering.
规模宏大——堪比伦敦圣保罗大教堂？
The dome weighs 560 tonnes,
更大？真的吗！罗马圣彼得大教堂呢？
and spans 145 feet.
更大？不...等等，确实更大！
It is huge. What are we talking, St Paul's Cathedral in London?
我始终怀揣着这份惊叹与自豪——
Larger than. Larger than?
巴克斯顿拥有世界最大
Yeah. St Peter's Cathedral in Rome?
且最具建筑美感的穹顶之一。
Larger than. No. Yes!
我始终怀揣着这份惊叹与自豪——
I still have that sort of sense of wonder, and also great pride,
巴克斯顿拥有世界最大
that Buxton has got one of the largest domes in the world,
且最具建筑美感的穹顶之一。
and architecturally, one of the most attractive domes in the world.