英国铁路纪行（2010）

1840年，一个人改变了英国的旅行方式
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain.
他叫乔治·布拉德肖，他的铁路指南激励维多利亚时代的人们踏上铁轨
His name was George Bradshaw, and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks.
他逐站指引人们该去哪儿旅行、看什么景点、在哪里住宿
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see, and where to stay.
170年后的今天，我将沿着这本指南穿越英国各地
Now 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length and breadth of the country
探寻布拉德肖笔下英国的遗存
to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.
我正在从利物浦到斯卡伯勒铁路之旅的最后一程，手持这本卷边的维多利亚时代手册
I'm on the last leg of my railway journey from Liverpool to Scarborough using this dog-eared Victorian handbook.
迄今为止，它对现代旅行者的指引依然出奇地实用
So far, its pointers have proved remarkably relevant even to the modern-day traveller.
我继续沿着海岸线前行——这对我们这个岛国的遗产至关重要
I'm continuing to travel by the sea, so important to our island of heritage.
现在我将发现布拉德肖指南如何不仅记录英国的昨天与今天
And now I'll discover where the Bradshaw's is a good guide not only to Britain's yesterday and today,
还指引着史前文明
but also to our prehistory.
今天我要在斯卡伯勒拜访一位古老的"本地居民"
Today, I'll be catching up with a very old local in Scarborough.
请问这是那位两千岁的先生吗？
Excuse me, is this the 2000-year-old man?
不，这位其实四千岁了，来自青铜时代早期
No, actually, this one's 4,000 years old. He dates from the early Bronze Age.
我还将探访菲利的渔夫尼茨
I'll be finding out about fisherman Nitz in Filey.
所有图案都有含义：锯齿纹代表绝不能直线走下悬崖
All the patterns have a meaning. The zigzag pattern, you never walk down the cliffs in a straight line.
菱形网纹象征
Then we have the diamond mesh.
渔网？
The nets?
渔网和网眼
The nets, the crop holes.
我还将在本普顿的野生悬崖观鸟
And I'll be bird-watching on the wild cliffs of Bempton.
这里有20万只繁殖海鸟，壮观至极
We've got 200,000 breeding seabirds here, which is just amazing.
这些塘鹅其实是近三十年才来此定居的
Actually, these gannets are a relatively recent colonist, maybe in the last 30 years or so.
我的利物浦之旅即将完成，横穿了英格兰西北部
I've almost completed my journey from Liverpool that took me across the northwest of England,
穿越奔宁山脉并造访历史名城约克
having crossed the Pennines and visited the historic city of York,
经过亨伯赛德后，现正沿东北海岸北上
and having passed through Humberside, I'm now heading up the northeast coast.
今天我将离开滨海布里德灵顿，前往菲利
Today, I'm leaving the seaside town of Bridlington and travelling up the coast to Filey
最终抵达目的地斯卡伯勒
before reaching my final destination, Scarborough.
第一站是本普顿
And my first stop is Bempton.
这里距离东北海岸奇观弗兰伯勒角最近
This is the nearest station to that spectacular feature of the northeast coast, Flamborough Head.
布拉德肖描述其巍峨悬崖高达500英尺
Bradshaw describes its lofty cliffs of nearly 500 feet elevation,
春夏时节栖息着成千上万色彩各异的鸟类
teeming in the spring and summer months with thousands of birds of every hue and species.
观鸟在19世纪末成为流行爱好
Birdwatching became a popular hobby in the late 19th century,
铁路发展推动人们前往海岸观赏壮观的海鸟群落
spurred on by the railways, which brought people to the coast to enjoy the magnificent seabird colonies.
多么震撼的景象啊
Isn't that amazing?
布拉德肖时代，这些高崖吸引着成千上万海鹦和海鸠
In Bradshaw's day, these high cliffs attracted thousands of puffins and guillemots.
如今这里也是英格兰最大塘鹅栖息地
These days, it's also home to England's largest mainland colony of gannets,
由皇家鸟类保护协会管♥理♥员♥伊恩·肯德尔密切监测
closely monitored by RSPB site manager Ian Kendall.
这地方太美妙了
What a fantastic site.
难以置信对吧？绝对震撼
Incredible, isn't it? Absolutely incredible.
锯齿状的断崖上密密麻麻停满鸟儿
That jagged, broken cliff with the birds lined along it.
我正遵循19世纪布拉德肖指南的描述探访弗兰伯勒角
I'm following this 19th century guide, Bradshaw, and he talks about Flamborough Head.
指南记载这里春夏季节鸟类云集
It has teeming with birds in spring and summer.
现在它们从春季待到十月初
Right, well, they're here spring and summer, but they're here right through to early October.
塘鹅养育幼鸟需要很长时间
I mean, these gannets take a long time to rear the young,
所以会停留到仲秋时节
and so they're here right through, well, mid-autumn, I guess.
它们食量惊人吧？
And they're voracious eaters, aren't they?
小时候狼吞虎咽就会被说"吃相像塘鹅"
I remember when I was a kid, if I was wolfing my food, I was accused of eating like a gannet.
确实如此，它们是最优秀的猎手
Yeah, absolutely, that's it. I mean, they are really, really good hunters,
每天要消耗大量食物
really, really good feeders, and they take matters and matters of food,
因此这个栖息地规模逐年扩大
and that's why the colony here is growing from strength to strength every year.
虽然塘鹅数量庞大
And am I right in thinking that even though you've got this huge number of gannets,
但其实只占鸟类总数的小部分？
they're actually a small minority of your total bird population?
没错，这里有20万只繁殖海鸟
Yeah, we've got 200,000 breeding seabirds here, which is just amazing.
现在还有偷鸟蛋的问题吗？
Do you have any problems these days with egg stealers?
那是维多利亚时代的大问题
No, that was the Victorian era, that was a real big issue during them.
当时采蛋人会攀崖盗取海鸠蛋
The climbers, as they were, used to go over these cliffs harvesting guillemot eggs.
有年他们偷了3万枚蛋
I think one year, though, they harvested 30,000 eggs.
这种做法显然不可持续
That was obviously never going to be sustainable,
《海鸟保护♥法♥案》正源于此
so I think the Seabird Preservation Act started right here,
禁止这种不计后果的偷蛋行为
and that stopped that process of just taking all those bird eggs
without any thought for the welfare of the bird.
我相信乔治·布拉德肖绝不会犯这种恶行
I like to think that George Bradshaw would never have been guilty of such a heinous crime.
当然不会
Sure not, I'm sure not.
采蛋人把鸟蛋当纪念品出♥售♥
The climbers would sell the eggs for souvenirs,
但多数被当地人食用
but most were stolen to be eaten by local people.
庆幸采蛋人已绝迹
Thankfully, the climbers have gone,
但观鸟者仍坚守在悬崖上
but the birdwatchers remain a firm fixture on the cliffs.
你觉得海鸟特别吗？
Do you think seabirds are special?
特别是塘鹅，它们美妙绝伦
I think they're absolutely wonderful, especially the gannets.
它们的生活方式令我着迷
The life of the gannet, the life they live, the way they live,
始终如此
and the way they are absolutely fascinates me and always has.
最吸引你的是什么？
What is it about their lifestyle that fascinates you?
终身一夫一妻制 永远守着同一个巢
Well, the fact that they mate for life, they have the same nest for life.
它们喂养幼鸟的方式
The way they bring up their young, they're feeding them,
投喂大量鱼获 彼此依偎
so much fish, they look after them, and the way they are together.
凶猛猎手却如此温柔相待
For such a fierce hunting bird, they're so gentle with one another,
相亲相爱的画面令人动容
and they're so loving, it's wonderful to see.
它们真的不换巢穴？
They have the same nest, do they?
终身不换
Yes, the same nest for life.
真不知如何做到的
But goodness knows how they do it.
想象冬季远游归来后
I mean, imagine you've been out for the whole of the winter,
要在这三英里长的悬崖
and then you come back to this cliff site,
准确找到
and the three miles of cliff, and you find the one particular little nest
去年那个小巢
that you've had last year.
实在神奇
Just don't know how they do it. I think it's wonderful.
我很难代入塘鹅的视角
I do find it hard to put myself in the position of a gannet.
不仅要找回旧巢
I mean, not only how do you find your address again,
还得在悬崖上生活数月
but how do you spend months clinging to a cliff edge?
这太不可思议了
It's really extraordinary, isn't it?
弗兰伯勒角附近有两座灯塔
Nearby Flamborough Head has two lighthouses.
白垩塔是英格兰现存最古老灯塔
The Chalk Tower is the oldest surviving lighthouse in England,
建于1674年
dating back to 1674.
1806年新建的灯塔
In 1806, it was replaced by another lighthouse
引起了布拉德肖的注意
that caught Bradshaw's eye.
它首创了恶劣天气预警系统
It pioneered a new system for alerting sailors in bad weather.
布拉德肖提到这座400英尺高的灯塔
Bradshaw mentions this lighthouse at Flamborough Head,
rising 400 feet above the sea.
布拉德肖时代它刚建成不久
It was quite new at the time of Bradshaw's guide,
首次采用红色玻璃反射镜
and for the first time they used red glass on the reflector,
雾中更显眼
a colour that could be better seen in the fog,
形成两白一红的
giving this lighthouse a characteristic signature
独特信♥号♥♥
of two white flashes followed by a red,
该模式后被众多灯塔效仿
a model that was quickly adopted by many other lights.
离开狂野的弗兰伯勒角
From the wilds of Flamborough,
我返回车站继续东海岸的旅程
it's back to the station for the next leg of my journey up the east coast.
下一站是菲利
My next stop is Filey,
布拉德肖指南称其为"现代海滨疗养地"
and Bradshaw's guide says of it that it's a modern watering place.
这本指南成书之时
The guidebook would have been written around the time
正值渔村转型为时尚海滨度假胜地
that fishing villages were becoming fashionable seaside resorts.
我很好奇如今这里
And I should be interested to see today
是以渔业还是时尚著称
whether it's more noted for fish or fashion.
多么可爱的火车站
What a lovely railway station.
完全出乎意料
Very, very unexpected.
精美的维多利亚砖墙 漂亮的屋顶
Beautiful, substantial, Victorian brick walls, lovely roof.
这里当年必定是时髦的度假胜地
It must indeed have been a fashionable watering place.
1846年铁路通车后
When the railways arrived in 1846,
菲利从小渔村扩展为
Filey expanded from a small fishing village
优雅的海滨度假地
to an elegant seaside resort.
对于知情者而言
For those in the know,
这是比喧闹的斯卡伯勒更清净的选择
it was a quieter alternative to its noisy neighbour, Scarborough.
但渔业始终是它的灵魂
But fishing was always at its heart.
1870年这里有100多艘作业渔船
In 1870, there were over 100 working vessels here.
菲利渔民使用东北部特有的
Filey fishermen used special cobble boats
卵石船
that are found only in the northeast.
船身小巧坚固 可直接从海滩下水
Small and sturdy, they could be launched straight from the beach.
杰里米·史密斯是渔夫世家
Jeremy Smith is a fisherman just like his father
使用菲利最后几艘卵石船之一
and uses one of the last remaining cobble boats in Filey.
你好 你好
Hello. Hello there.
从没见过这样的船
I've never seen a boat like this before.
船底是平的
It's got a kind of flat bottom.
平底带隧♥道♥结构
Yes, it's got a flat bottom with a tunnel
螺旋桨就在下面
where the propeller is underneath.