英国铁路纪行（2010）

1840年，一个人改变了英国的旅行方式。
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain.
他叫乔治·布拉德肖，他的铁路指南激励维多利亚时代的人们踏上铁轨之旅。
His name was George Bradshaw and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks.
他逐站指引人们去哪里旅行、看什么景点、住什么地方。
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see and where to stay.
170年后的今天，我将横跨整个国家进行四次长途旅程，
Now, 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length
探寻布拉德肖笔下英国的遗存。
and breadth of the country to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.
我正在完成从斯温顿到彭赞斯的铁路之旅。
I'm now completing my rail journey from Swindon to Penzance.
布拉德肖指南为我提供了
My Bradshaw's Guide has given me
维多利亚时代英国的珍贵视角。
a valuable Victorian perspective on Britain.
今天我想深入探索康沃尔的过往，
Today I want to look deep into Cornwall's past, delving
不仅追溯其历史，还有埋藏地底的宝藏。
not only into its history but also into treasures buried in the earth.
今天我将朝圣佩兰金沙。
Today I'll be making a pilgrimage to Perran Sands.
我在寻找失落的圣皮兰教堂，但它似乎又消失了。
I'm looking for the lost church of St Piran but it seems to have got lost again.
它确实存在，就在这块花岗岩下。
It is, but it is here, right under this granite rock.
我将探访康沃尔最后运营的锡矿。
I'll be exploring the last working tin mine in Cornwall.
你会明白康沃尔矿工身材矮小的优势。
You can see the advantages of being a small Cornish miner.
这通道在岩石钻机出现前就存在。
The thing was put in before rock drills, actually.
当时只能手工钻孔爆破。
This had to be hand drilled and then blasted.
我还要在赫尔福德河采集牡蛎。
And I'll be harvesting oysters on the Helford river.
太令人兴奋了！多么惊人的景象！
That really is exciting. What an amazing sight!
笼子里装满了袋装牡蛎。
That is a cage absolutely full of bags of oysters.
没错。
That's right.
本周我的旅程一路向西。
All this week my journey takes me west.
从斯温顿上车至今，我已行驶
And since catching the train at Swindon, I've already travelled
250多英里，穿越萨默塞特和德文郡。
over 250 miles, passing through Somerset and Devon.
最后一段旅程将抵达最南端，
The final stretch will take me about as far south as you can go,
到达彭赞斯崎岖的海岸线。
to the rugged coastline around Penzance.
今天我从圣奥斯特尔出发，经特鲁罗
Today I'm leaving St Austell, and heading through Truro
前往雷德鲁斯和圣艾夫斯。
to Redruth and St Ives.
然后横穿至赫尔斯顿，
I'm then crossing over to Helston,
最终抵达目的地。
before reaching my final destination.
第一站是特鲁罗。
My first stop is Truro.
这是距离狂野的佩兰金沙最近的火车站。
It's the nearest railway station to a very wild piece of Cornish countryside called Perran Sands.
这片神奇地貌拥有英国最大的沙丘群。
This amazing landscape has some of the largest sand dunes in Britain.
1835年沙丘分开时露出
I'm here because in 1835 the sand parted to reveal
一座古老教堂，令布拉德肖着迷。
an ancient church and Bradshaw was mesmerised.
他写道："我们来到佩兰金沙..."
He writes, "We come to Perran Sands...
"可见一座圆形剧场和圣皮兰古教堂遗址，
"where may be seen an amphitheatre and the remains of an old church of St Piran,
"这座不列颠古建筑已被流沙掩埋数世纪。"
"an ancient British edifice which had been covered by the shifting sands for centuries."
后来证实这不仅是康沃尔最古老的教堂，
It turned out not only to be the oldest church in Cornwall
也是英国最早的基♥督♥教遗址之一。
but one of the earliest Christian sites in Britain.
不久后，铁路开始运送朝圣者
Before long, the railways were transporting pilgrims
和游客来见证圣皮兰教堂的奇迹。
and sightseers to witness the wonder of St Piran's.
但显然它又消失了...
But evidently it's disappeared again...
希望当地居民安吉拉·彭罗斯能帮我找到它。
I'm hoping local resident Angela Penrose can help me to find it.
安吉拉你好。你好，迈克尔。
Angela, hello. Hello. Michael.
多么宁静美丽的地方。很美对吧？
What a lovely, tranquil spot. It's beautiful, isn't it?
我在找失落的圣皮兰教堂。
I'm looking for the lost church of St Piran.
信不信由你，它就在这里，就在这块花岗岩下。
Believe it or not, it's here, right under this granite rock.
它是被流沙自然掩埋的。
It has covered naturally by the sands.
整个沙丘区会移♥动♥。六世纪时，圣皮兰从爱尔兰来到
This whole area of dunes shifts and in the 6th century, St Piran came from Ireland.
佩兰波斯的岸边，建造了小礼拜堂
He arrived here on the shores of Perranporth. He built his little oratory
近千年间这里一直是活动和朝圣中心。
and for almost 1,000 years, it was a centre of activity and pilgrimages.
1835年他们是挖掘出来的，还是沙子又移走了？
In 1835, did they dig it out or did the sand shift back again?
我们认为是流沙移♥动♥显露的。
It was revealed, we think, by shifting sands.
后来威廉·米切尔进行了挖掘。当时非常轰动
Then William Mitchell excavated it. There was great excitement
因为这是英国大♥陆♥最古老的基♥督♥教四壁建筑之一。
because it was, it is, one of the oldest Christian four-walled edifices in the mainland of Britain.
但到1970年代，教堂再次被流沙淹没。
But by the 1970s, sand was overwhelming the church once more.
当地人被告知最经济的保护方式是重新掩埋。
The locals were advised that the most cost effective way to preserve it was to bury it again.
地下的遗迹有多重要？
How important is what's underneath?
对康沃尔人意义重大，因为圣皮兰
It has great significance for the Cornish because St Piran,
是锡矿工的守护神，关联着整个工业经济史
he was the patron saint of tin miners and it connects to all this industrial and economic history
和19世纪流散到墨西哥、美国、智利、
and the diaspora, the Cornish miners, who in the 19th century
南非的康沃尔矿工群体。
had to go off to Mexico, the States, Chile, South Africa.
这确实意义非凡。
It really has a significance.
它是康沃尔身份的一部分。
It's part of the Cornish identity.
康沃尔人将圣皮兰铭记于心，我现在前往
The Cornish took St Piran to their hearts and I'm now heading to Truro,
与他渊源最深的城市。
the city most closely associated with him.
布拉德肖时代，这里是锡贸易中心。
In Bradshaw's day, it was the centre for the tin trade.
铁路的出现让特鲁罗繁荣起来。
Truro flourished with the emergence of the railways.
许多新铁路专为锡矿铺设。
Many new tracks were laid to serve the tin mines.
金属得以快速运输，促进产业发展。
The metals could be carried quickly around the county, helping the industry to grow.
布拉德肖指南描述特鲁罗："康沃尔矿业之都
Bradshaws guide says of Truro, "It's the mining capital of Cornwall
"遍布铸造厂、冶炼厂、陶器和锡作坊...
"covered by foundries, blast houses, pottery and tin works...
"出口前金属需经压印。
"The metal is stamped, previous to being exported.
"锡锭运往地中海，锡块销往东印度群岛。"
"Bar tin is sent to the Mediterranean and ingots to the East Indies."
19世纪锡价上涨时，特鲁罗日益富裕。
When the price of tin went up in the 19th century, Truro became increasingly wealthy.
吸引商贾银行家建造豪♥宅♥，成为时尚居住地。
It attracted merchants and bankers who built grand houses, transforming it into a fashionable place to live.
但如今尽管特鲁罗依然宏伟，却不见锡的踪迹。
But today, even though Truro remains grand, I've nowhere seen a hint of tin.
你好，你是特鲁罗人吗？当然是。特鲁罗还和锡有关联吗？
Hello, are you from Truro? I most definitely am. Is Truro still associated with tin?
现在不多了。康沃尔的财富曾来自锡矿。
Not so much now. Of course, the money in Cornwall came from the tin mines.
17世纪时巨额财富...
Huge amounts of money... in the 17th century.
可惜现在没有了。
Unfortunately, now, no.
那现在特鲁罗的经济支柱是什么？旅游业。
So, what's Truro's economy based on now? Tourism.
警官，你在特鲁罗工作？
Officer, you work in Truro?
是的。你觉得这城市怎么样？我爱特鲁罗，很棒。
Indeed, yes, yeah. What do you think of the city? I love Truro. It's great.
没有锡矿了？我觉得所剩无几了。
No more tin? I don't think there's an awful lot more tin around.
他们试图重开南克罗夫蒂矿，但除此之外没了。
They are trying to open South Crofty but otherwise, no.
自从来到康沃尔，"锡"字总被人提及。
Ever since I arrived in Cornwall the word tin has been on people's lips.
但在特鲁罗未见踪迹，我前往更远地方
But having found no trace of it in Truro, I'm moving further afield
寻找曾作为康沃尔命脉产业的遗存。
and find what remains of what was once a vital industry for Cornwall.
希望下一站雷德鲁斯能有收获。
I'm hoping I'll have more luck at my next stop.
到雷德鲁斯要多久？你知道吗？
How long's the journey to Redruth? Do you know?
十分钟。十分钟，好的谢谢。
Ten minutes. Ten minutes, OK. Thank you.
听说雷德鲁斯有座叫南克罗夫蒂的老锡矿濒临重启。
I've heard there's an old tin mine at Redruth called South Crofty that's on the brink of re-opening.
19世纪时，雷德鲁斯周边有300多座矿井
In the 19th century, there were over 300 mines around Redruth
开采锡和铜出口到世界各地。
mining tin and copper to be exported around the world.
布拉德肖写道："此镇重要性几乎全赖其毗邻矿区的中心位置，
Bradshaw writes, "This town derives nearly all of its importance from its central situation with respect
"采矿活动使人口增至原先三倍。"
"to the neighbouring mines, the workings of which has increased the population to treble its original number."
如今只剩一座锡矿幸存。
Today, no tin mine survives except one.
南克罗夫蒂运作400多年，鼎盛时期是康沃尔最高产矿山之一。
South Crofty was worked for over 400 years and in its heyday was one of Cornwall's most productive mines.
是约翰吗？你好迈克尔。
It is John, isn't it? Hello, Michael.
很高兴来到南克罗夫蒂，久仰大名。
It's great to be at South Crofty, I've heard a lot about the mine.
但到1998年，锡价暴跌导致
But by 1998, the value of tin had fallen so low, that South Crofty,
当时康沃尔最后的锡矿被迫关闭。
by then the last Cornish tin mine, had to shut.
如今锡需求增长，这座矿有望再度盈利。
Today, the demand for tin is increasing and there's a chance that the mine could be profitable again.
运营官约翰·韦伯斯特相信复产只是时间问题。
Operations officer, John Webster believes it's only a matter of time before mining recommences.
这里通道都很狭窄对吧？
It is all quite narrow down here, isn't it?
你会明白康沃尔矿工身材矮小的优势。
You can see the advantages of being a small Cornish miner.
这通道在岩石钻机出现前就存在，当时只能手工钻孔爆破。
This thing was put in before the days of rock drills, this had to be hand drilled and blasted.
难以想象在地下工作。
Imagine working underground here.
没有风扇，没有通风。
No fans, no ventilation.
19到20世纪大部分时间，矿工在恶劣条件下开凿出
Throughout most of the 19th and 20th century, miners worked in very tough conditions to create a rabbit warren
纵横交错的隧♥道♥网。
of tiny tunnels crisscrossing under the Cornish countryside.
这里开采的年代，该地区堪称创造力的熔炉。
About the time this was being mined, this area must have been a cauldron of creativity, actually.
诞生了无数发明创造。
The amount of inventions that were made down here is incredible.
约翰，终于能站直太解脱了。
John, it's a great relief to be able to stand up straight at last.
18世纪蒸汽泵的发明催生了
The invention of steam powered pumps in the 18th century
康沃尔采矿业的巨大成功。
created the enormously successful Cornish mining industry.
矿工能更深更快开采，提升矿石产量。
Miners were able to dig deeper and faster, to boost the production of ore.
这项技术还诞生了蒸汽机车
This same technology produced the steam locomotive which
推动铁路成功，进而运输金属矿石。
made a success of the railways, which in turn transported the metal ore around the country.
为什么采矿最终在这里终结？
Why eventually did the mining come to an end here?
他们依赖锡价，而锡价多次崩♥盘♥。
They were reliant on the price of tin and there were a number of tin crashes.
可惜没有其他收入来源，矿井就倒闭了。
Unfortunately, they never had anything else to generate income and the mine collapsed.
随着锡价上涨，重启矿井变得合理。
With the price of tin now rising, it makes sense to try and re-open the mine.
勘测还发现南克罗夫蒂富含其他金属。
What's more, surveys have revealed South Crofty's richness in other metals too.
这些含有铜、锌和锡。
This contains copper, zinc and tin.
这是高品位矿石。约14%的铜，
This is very high grade. This is about 14% copper,
1%的锡和百万分之200的银。
about 1% tin and about 200 parts per million silver.
所以重启矿井非常值得。绝对值得。
So this is well worth bringing the mine back into operation. Absolutely, yeah.