英国铁路纪行（2010）

So, Manchester now is full of modern buildings, skyscrapers and so on.
你觉得如何？我喜欢这种...
What do you think of those? I like it, cos it's like...
新旧建筑交融的景象
a diverse mix of old buildings and new buildings, and some of them, like,
能清晰看到城市变迁轨迹
you can see how Manchester's changing over the years. Like, you've got cobbled streets
市场街的石板路与希尔顿酒店比邻而立
in Market Street and then next to it, you've got the Hilton Hotel and everything, so it's really different.
时代更迭的脉络一目了然
You can see the timeline of how everything's changed.
你对现在的曼城有何看法？
What do you think of Manchester now?
我一直喜欢这里
Oh, I always liked Manchester.
这是座不断变化的城市对吧？但依然讨喜
It's a changing city, isn't it? Yeah, but I still like it.
新旧曼城哪个更好？
So what's better - the old Manchester or the new Manchester?
总要顺应时代发展嘛
Well, you've got to go with the times, haven't you?
曼彻斯特最繁忙的皮卡迪利车站确实与时俱进
Manchester's busiest station, Piccadilly, certainly did move with the times.
皮卡迪利站全无维多利亚站的老派魅力
Manchester Piccadilly has none of the Victorian old-world charm of Manchester Victoria.
这里设计得像航♥空♥航站楼
This has been made to look like an airline terminal.
彰显"精致、通透、崭新"的特质
This says, "I'm classy, I'm glassy and brand new."
我将南行探寻铁路推动的另一项纺织业传奇
I'm heading south, to find out about another textile success story for Manchester driven by the railways.
布拉德肖指南记载丹顿镇有多家"制帽厂"
Bradshaw's guide tells me that Denton, towards which I'm headed now, has several "hat manufacturies"
当时这个3500人的村庄
as he puts it. Denton then was a village of about 3,500 people.
现已成为大曼彻斯特区的一部分
I think now, I'm going to discover it's pretty much been absorbed into Greater Manchester.
谢谢
Thank you.
19世纪这里有90家制帽厂
In the 1800s, there were 90 hat factories around here,
雇佣了近40%的人口
employing almost 40 per cent of the population.
软呢帽据传诞生于此
It's claimed the trilby hat was born here,
但汽车的出现几乎摧毁了这个行业
but the hat industry was all but killed off with the arrival of
车厢提供了遮风挡雨的功能
the motor car. It provided shelter from the elements,
人们不再需要帽子
so hats were no longer needed.
费尔兹沃斯是仅存的几家制帽厂之一
Failsworth Hats is one of the few hat factories left,
经理凯伦·特纳将为我定制丹顿软呢帽
and manager Karen Turner is going to make me my very own Denton trilby.
你是凯伦吗？
Are you Karen?
是的！很高兴见面
Oh, I am, yes. Hi! Nice to meet you, Michael.
久闻制帽历史
Lovely to see you. I keep hearing about the history of hats.
先测量头围
So we'll just measure round your head, just above the ears at the
最宽处58厘米，即7又1/8英寸
widest point, which is 58cm, which is a seven and one eighth in imperial.
这个尺寸很实用
Oh, seven and one eighth. Useful to know. I'm often being asked that, yeah. That's it.
我们从帽坯开始制♥作♥
This is what we start off with.
这是兔毛压制的毡坯
This is what we call a hood, and it's made from rabbit hair,
纯兔毛压制
felted rabbit hair. Nothing else, just felt and...
手感柔软
It's nice and soft. Yeah.
古老的机器
Ancient-looking machinery.
几十年来都没变过
I suppose this hasn't changed very much in many decades.
有些可能已使用
No, not at all. This machinery's probably, what...?
80年？甚至更久
How old do you think? 80 years old perhaps.
Some of it's even older, yeah.
这是蒸汽定型吗？
Now, you seem to have put that into a steam chamber. Is that right?
蒸汽软化很关键
Yeah, steam is really important.
正在软化材质
The steam is softening it now.
我查阅的150年前指南记载着
Abracadabra... I've been following a guide book
曼彻斯特周边的制帽业
150 years old that talks about the hatters around Manchester.
工艺与当年差异大吗？
Would the process be very different 150 years ago?
主要区别在于
Probably not, no. The only difference might have been that, whereas
现在直接使用帽坯
we start off now with a hood, they will have
当年需从兔毛开始制♥作♥
actually bought in rabbit hair and made the hoods themselves,
工序更为繁琐
which was even more labour-intensive.
布拉德肖时代用汞分离兔毛制坯
In Bradshaw's time, mercury was used to separate the rabbit hair from the hide to make the felted hoods.
许多工人汞中毒出现精神异常
Many hat workers suffered from mercury poisoning, with symptoms like erratic behaviour and dementia.
"疯如帽匠"的典故由此而来
It's said that the expression "mad as a hatter" came from that.
经过反复蒸汽定型
Back to my hat. After much more steaming, stretching
我的帽子即将完工
and setting of its shape and size, it's almost complete.
现在进行内衬缝合
So, now we're going to line the hat in,
想试试完成最后步骤吗？
and perhaps you'd like to have a go at this to finish the hat off?
我总把胶水弄得到处都是
I'd be worried to have a go, because when I make construction kits,
I always manage to get the glue everywhere.
不错嘛！帽子基本完成了
Er, not bad, Michael! But this is very nearly a completed hat.
It is very nearly, yeah, yeah.
帽檐压低些
Pull the brim down your nose.
再歪戴出俏皮角度
And at a jaunty angle.
非常合适
That's it, yeah, yeah. Very good.
好了？很完美
Is that it? Yeah, very nice.
太感谢了
Thank you very much.
数十年间，千万制帽工人
Over many decades, thousands of workers making headwear for the world
让曼彻斯特名扬四海
helped put Manchester on the map and I lift my hat to them.
你戴帽子吗？现在不戴了
Do you ever wear a hat? No, not any more. I used to.
为什么放弃？
Did you? Yes. And what made you give up wearing a hat?
现在头围变小了！
Er, well, none of them fit me now!
帽子都太大了
They're all too big!
遗憾现代人不戴帽子了吗？
But do you think it's a pity that people don't wear hats any more?
年轻人又开始流行了
Oh, the young ones do, don't they?
软呢帽正回归时尚
They seem to wear these trilby things that are in fashion. Oh, do you think so? Yeah.
看来制帽业仍有希望
So, maybe there's still hope for the hat industry.
现在返回曼彻斯特过夜
Now, it's back into Manchester for my bed for the night.
信赖的布拉德肖指南
And my trusty edition of Bradshaw
带我来到曼城最宏伟的建筑之一
has brought me to one of the most impressive buildings in Manchester.
维多利亚时期
In Victorian times,
实用建筑也极尽华美
even the most utilitarian of buildings were magnificent.
指南写道："波特兰街沃茨新仓库
As Bradshaw's guide says, "For style of architecture and beauty,
"其建筑之美冠绝全城，务必一观"
"perhaps Watts's new warehouses in Portland Street excel all others and ought by all means to be seen."
1858年开业时是全球首家现购自运仓库
When it opened in 1858, it was the world's first cash and carry.
现为保护建筑，幸运的是我的今晚住所
Now, it's a listed building and, luckily for me, my hotel for the night.
建筑仿照15世纪
This building was designed to look like
威尼斯装饰宫殿风格
a highly decorated Venetian palazzo from the 15th century.
宣告"曼彻斯特棉花大亨的权势财富
It was a way of saying, "The cotton barons of Manchester are as powerful and wealthy
"堪比当年主宰欧洲贸易的威尼斯商人"
"as the merchants of Venice were when they dominated trade in Europe.
曼彻斯特的清晨，改造为酒店的仓库内部
Bright new morning in Manchester, and the interior of the warehouse
与外立面同样壮观
that is now my hotel is just as magnificent as the exterior.
难以置信维多利亚人建造如此精美的仓库
It's incredible that the Victorians built warehouses to this quality, but even so, I can't believe that
不过水晶吊灯应是后来添加
the original warehouse had that chandelier.
如今棉业痕迹几近消失
These days, there's not much sign of the cotton industry left, but I'm told that the sweeping,
但这座悬臂式铁制楼梯与廊台
cantilevered iron staircase and balconied stairwell
仍是原始结构
are part of the original warehouse.
自1830年代在此创立公♥司♥出版时刻表以来
Bradshaw's home city has changed dramatically since he set up
布拉德肖的故乡已翻天覆地
his company here in the 1830s, publishing railway timetables.
这条短街曾是他的办公室所在地
In this short street, George Bradshaw had his office once,
如今已无迹可寻
but it's perfectly clear there's no trace of it left now.
我想深入了解这位曼城之子如何整顿
But I'm interested to find out more about this son of Manchester and how it was that he came to bring
各家铁路公♥司♥时刻表混乱无序的局面
order to that chaotic world in which the many railway companies
had uncoordinated and largely unknowable timetables.
他1801年生于曼彻斯特郊外的索尔福德
I know that he was born in Salford, just outside Manchester, in 1801.
作为贵格会信徒参与慈善工作
As a Quaker, he was involved in charity work and would have been a well-known figure amongst
在激进派中颇有名气
the Manchester radicals. A political animal perhaps,
这更引起我的兴趣
which makes him even more interesting to me.
历史学家特雷弗·托马斯是布拉德肖研究专家
Historian Trevor Thomas is an expert on Bradshaw and his railway guides,
其指南多收藏于约翰·瑞兰兹图书馆
many of which have ended up here, at the John Rylands Library.
感觉来到了布拉德肖的圣殿
Nice to meet you. I feel as if I've come to Bradshaw's shrine here.
这是他出生并终老的城市
Yes, I think you're right. This is the city he was born in and lived in all his life.
'他将全国列车时刻表汇编成便携指南的创举'
'Bradshaw's big idea was to gather all the railway timetables for the whole country into one handy guide.'
这就是布拉德肖藏品
And here is the Bradshaw collection.
全是布拉德肖！
Wow. It's all Bradshaw. Bradshaw, Bradshaw, Bradshaw...
规模惊人
Bradshaw, Bradshaw, Bradshaw... And Bradshaw is up here. It's huge.
可能是国内最完整的布拉德肖文献
Yes, it's one of the...probably the best collection of Bradshaw material that there is in the country. Yes.
特雷弗挑选了最早期的版本
Trevor's picked out one of the earliest editions
供我们细览
so that we can take a closer look.
小巧便携的
So, this is very small, clearly intended to go in a pocket.
口袋本
I think it's a waistcoat guide,
可放入马甲口袋
which you could stick easily in your coat pocket,
这是1839年的首版
and this is actually the first edition of 1839.
这是首次将时刻表统一汇编吗？
And this was the first time these timetables had been brought together in one place, is that right?
1839年多人尝试编制时刻表
Er, it's... A number of people were trying to produce timetables in 1839
布拉德肖率先完成
and Bradshaw was the one that won the race
全国统一版本
to produce the first unified national timetable.
这本特别之处在于
And the interesting thing about this particular copy is that it's
前主人从布拉德肖夫人处购得的关联本
an association copy which a previous owner had bought from Mrs Bradshaw.
注释说明铁路彩色线路由
And the note says that the coloured lines of the railways were done by
布拉德肖儿子与孙女绘制