英国铁路纪行（2010）

Great British Railway Journeys S01E08

Part 3 Aug. 24, 2025, 4:25 p.m.

但早在他之前华兹华斯就反对
But before him, William Wordsworth had opposed
铁路进入湖区
the railways coming to the Lake District
认为这将招引劳工工匠
on the grounds that it would bring labourers and
与底层商贩
artisans and the humbler class of shopkeepers
涌入湖区漫游
to ramble in the Lake District.
如今确实人满为患
It's certainly busy today,
讽刺的是恐怕正是这位诗人
and the irony is that probably no-one did
用田园诗篇
more to attract huge crowds to the Lakes
引来了最多游客
than the poet with his idyllic verses.
"我孤独地漫游如一朵云"
"I wandered lonely as a cloud
"高高飘过峡谷山巅"
"That floats on high o'er vales and hills
"突然我望见金黄的水仙"
"When all at once I saw a crowd
"在湖畔林间摇曳..."
"A host of golden daffodils..."
这般诗作令人心驰神往
Poems like that one made people long to visit the Lake District.
作为铁路时刻表之父
As the father of the railway timetables,
布拉德肖只是指明路线
Bradshaw just told them how to get there.
无铁路处他推荐公共马车
And where there were no trains, he told you about the omnibuses.
"往格拉斯米尔四、五英里"
Coaches run to Grasmere, being four or five miles
"沿途林木葱郁风景绝佳"
amidst fine trees and beautiful scenery.
出人意料格拉斯米尔至今仍较宁静
Surprisingly, today Grasmere is still relatively tranquil.
全村专注旅游业尽是酒店餐馆
The village is pretty much devoted to tourism, it's all hotels and restaurants,
但景致依然迷人
but it is still very, very pretty.
这是格拉斯米尔圣奥斯瓦尔德教堂
This is the church of St Oswald of Grasmere
布拉德肖提及威廉·华兹华斯
and Bradshaw mentions that William Wordsworth
与夫人长眠于此
and his wife are buried in the churchyard.
我且寻访一番
So, I will try to find them.
此处每块墓碑都刻着"华兹华斯"
Ah, here every headstone bears the name "Wordsworth".
威廉、多萝西...
William, Dorothy...
读着《水仙》长大的人
Having more or less been brought up on William Wordsworth's Daffodils,
见此安息处不禁动容
it's very moving to see the place where they rest.
他们与格拉斯米尔密不可分
They were so completely associated with Grasmere.
可谓让湖区闻名于世
Really made the Lake District famous, I suppose.
两日游♥行♥程中布拉德肖
As part of my two-day tour, Bradshaw
推荐了几处过夜之所
recommends a few places to stay for the night.
"湖畔酒店、天鹅旅馆、红狮客栈
He says, "Lake Hotel, Swan Inn and Red Lion
及数家体面民宿
are also several respectable lodging houses,
"皆在格拉斯米尔"
"all at Grasmere."
所幸其中一家仍在营业
Fortunately, one of them is still open for business.
您好！迈克尔·波蒂洛办理入住
Hello! Michael Portillo checking in, please. Yes, sir.
门外有华兹华斯的诗句...是的
I saw the quote from Wordsworth outside... Yes.
你们与诗人渊源颇深？
Do you have a strong Wordsworth connection?
他和妹妹曾住鸽舍...没错
We do. His sister and himself used to live at Dove Cottage... Yes.
距此步行十分钟诗人常溜来
..which is literally a ten-minute walk and he
天鹅旅馆用早餐
used to sneak out for breakfast to The Swan.
真的？千真万确
Really? He did.
太棒了早餐仍美味？当然
Fantastic. Breakfast still good? Absolutely. Eight
早八至十点持续供应
till ten for breakfast, served straight through.
次日享用诗人同款早餐后
And fortified with a Wordsworthian breakfast the next morning,
我继续踏上旅程
it's time to head off on the next leg of my journey.
将离开温德米尔前行八英里进入山区
I'm leaving Windermere and travelling eight miles down the line into the Fells.
湖区不只有湖光水色
The Lake District isn't just about lakes, not just about water.
前往肯德尔途中布拉德肖记载
I'm on my way to Kendal now and Bradshaw comments that,
"居民从事地毯、毛纺、亚麻籽、精纺
"The population is engaged in carpet, woollen, linseed, worsted,
"木屐、梳子、线轴、鱼钩、皮革、绳索、毛线及大理石等行业"
"clog, comb, bobbin, fish-hook, leather, rope, woollen cord and marble works."
对周边乡村亦着墨甚多
He has a lot to say about the surrounding countryside, too.
"河流流经的山谷相当肥沃
"The valleys through which the rivers flow are tolerably fertile
"东北部有大♥片♥耕地"
"and in the northeastern quarter, there is a considerable tract of cultivated land."
自布拉德肖时代以来乡村风貌
It seems that neither the countryside nor the
与习俗皆变化不大
customs have changed much since Bradshaw's day.
指南通常会注明各地赶集日
Bradshaw's guide normally tells you, for each place, which day is market day.
他那个年代肯德尔每周六赶集
In his times, market day in Kendal was on Saturdays.
今天恰逢周六——
Today is Saturday -
集市就在眼前！
and here is the market!
我对肯德尔的唯一了解就是薄荷糕
And the only thing I know about Kendal is that it's famous for its mint cake.
糕点架真精美！谢谢！
Lovely looking cake stand! Oh, thank you!
请来份肯德尔薄荷糕
Erm, Kendal mint cake, please.
我们不卖♥♥这个它其实
Erm, we don't stock Kendal mint cake, it isn't
不是糕点而是糖果容易混淆
actually a cake, it's quite confusing, it's a sweet!
太意外了！真抱歉！
Well, that has thrown me! I'm so sorry!
我专程来买♥♥薄荷糕！
I've come to Kendal for Kendal mint cake!
我们有很多其他美食！确实
We've lots of other things! You certainly have.
本地特产湖区茶点面包...
We do the Lakes tea loaf, which is local, erm...
湖区茶点面包？听着不错
The Lakes tea loaf? Yes. Oh, that sounds like it.
是这个吗？对看起来很诱人
Is that this thing here? That's that one there. That looks lovely.
耐储存深受登山者欢迎
It'll last for ages. We sell a lot to walkers, when they're going up the Fells.
切一片尝尝果料丰富
Cut a slice of that, there's lots of fruit in it.
保证让你登顶无忧！绝对
Guaranteed to get you to the top of the highest hill! Absolutely.
就要这个太好了非常感谢！
OK, super. That's the one for me. Righty-ho, thank you very much, thank you!
布拉德肖时代铁路不仅改变
In Bradshaw's time, the railways transformed our
城市也重塑了乡村
cities. But they also changed the countryside
与农耕方式
and farming, too.
生鲜食品首次能运往全国
For the first time, fresh food could travel all over the country.
原本只供应本地市场的农场
Farms that once supplied only their local
突然面向全国
markets suddenly became national enterprises.
西尔菲尔德农场的戈特家族亲历这些变迁
At Sillfield Farm, Peter Gott's family has lived through those changes.
彼得！你好
Peter! Hello.
我穿了雨靴你好啊
I've got my wellies on. How'd you do?
很高兴见到您幸会
Very nice to see you, sir. Nice to meet you.
把它们赶回去！
Get 'em back!
*吹口哨* 稳住！
HE WHISTLES Steady!
他们饲养赫德威克羊
They've been farming the local breed of
已有数百年历史
Herdwick sheep for hundreds of years.
如今彼得与牧羊人伊恩·格里斯代尔合作
Today, Peter works with shepherd Ian Grisdale.
*吹口哨*
HE WHISTLES
干得漂亮伊恩
Fantastic work, Ian, fantastic.
一分钟就赶齐了？差不多！
What did that take, about a minute to round them up? Something like that, yes!
年轻就是优势啊！
When you've got youth on your side, it helps!
铁路曾是农产品运往城市
At one time, the railways must have been the
的唯一途径
only way to get produce from here to the cities.
要么铁路要么马车后者太慢
Well, it was either that or horse and cart, and that's a bit slow.
铁路打开了乡村大门
Yeah, railways opened up the countryside.
连市场都是铁路公♥司♥建的
Even markets were owned by railway companies.
巴罗因弗内斯市场现造核潜艇
We have a market in Barrow-in-Furness where they build nuclear submarines.
旧市场就属铁路公♥司♥所有
And the old market was owned by the railway company.
沿着坎布里亚西海岸
And, of course, coming down the west coast of Cumbria,
铁路将丰饶物产运往各地
you would bring all that abundance of food to the population to sell,
彻底改变了农业
and I think railways have changed farming considerably.
城市扩张中铁路满足生鲜需求
As cities grew, the railways satisfied the mass demand for fresh food.
农场规模扩大高度专业化
Farms became bigger and highly specialised.
20世纪中叶农业进入工业化
By the mid-20th century, land was being farmed on an industrial scale.
如今彼得等农户加入
Now, Peter's farm and many like it are part
"慢食运动"
of something called the "slow food" movement.
回归小规模
They're going back to a way of farming that's smaller-scale
传统农耕方式
and based on local traditions.
这是湖区特有羊种
These are a designer sheep that belong in the Lake District.
全英独一无二
Nowhere else in the country will you find this type and style of sheep.
关键是风味独特
What's important is that the flavour's different.
记住食如其主
And don't forget, you are what you eat.
它们食用山区传统草本植物
But they're eating old-fashioned herbage in the Fells.
在岩间跳跃堪称
They hop from crag to crag, probably the
英国版岩羊
nearest thing you'd get to a mountain goat,
塑造了湖区牧场生态
and, of course, they've created that grazed environment in the Lake District.
没有这些牲畜
If it wasn't for the animals we farm,
这里将荆棘丛生
we would end up with gorse and bushes
无法登山
and you wouldn't be able to get on top of the mountains.
哇从没想过这点
Wow. I had never thought of that.
如今牧场青翠如茵
If you think about it, farming today and the grazed
的田园风光
environment, the lush green patchwork of fields we see,
都是牧民放牧的成果
has been brought about by the farmers who are grazing that environment.
城里人眼中的自然乡野
What we townies think of as being the natural look of the countryside