英国铁路纪行（2010）

这描述是否有些夸张？
A little over the top, perhaps?
虽然现在看起来奇怪，但维多利亚时代的人习惯将
Although it may seem odd now, the Victorians were prone to describing
陡峭的森林景观称为"瑞士风光"。
steeply wooded natural scenery as "Swiss".
这成为旅游文学中的常用术语，当地人也深谙此道。
It became a well-used term in travel literature for tourists, something the locals seem to know all about.
我正遵循19世纪指南书的记载，这里被称为"袖珍瑞士"。
I'm following a 19th-century guidebook which says this is like Switzerland in a nutshell.
拜伦勋爵也这么称呼它，小瑞士。
Byron named it that, Little Switzerland.
拜伦也这么命名过？
Byron named it that as well, did he?
是的。我参考的19世纪指南书说这里像袖珍瑞士。
Yes, he did, yeah. I'm following a 19th-century guidebook, it says it's like Switzerland in a nutshell.
您认同吗？确实如此？您不觉得吗？
Would you agree with that? It is. It is, is it? Don't you think so?
这有美丽的绿色山坡，还有缆车。
Well, it's beautiful green slopes, isn't it? And the cable car.
有趣的是虽处内陆却有海滨氛围。确实如此。
What's interesting about this place, it's got a seaside atmosphere, even though we are inland. Very much so.
所以这是距海岸90英里的"海滨瑞士"风情。
So, a little taste of Switzerland by the sea, even though we're 90 miles from the coast.
马特洛克巴斯确有海滨度假胜地的感觉，
Matlock Bath does have the feel of a seaside resort,
而我在海边时总爱吃冰淇淋。
and whenever I'm at the seaside, I do like to have an ice cream.
早上好。您好。
Morning. Good morning. How are you?
很好，请给我个冰淇淋。
Very well, could I have an ice cream please?
您要哪种甜筒？朗姆葡萄干味的。
Certainly, which cone would you like? A rum and raisin, please.
您喜欢马特洛克巴斯吗？
Do you like Matlock Bath?
非常喜欢，我在此居住近30年。
Yes, I love it. I have lived here nearly 30 years.
我和丈夫游历过意大利多地，
My husband and I have travelled extensively in Italy
仍觉得这里最美。
and I still don't think there's anywhere as nice as this area.
您提到意大利很有趣，因为我参考的
It's funny you should mention Italy, because I'm following
19世纪指南书将这里比作瑞士。
a 19th-century guidebook and it compares Matlock Bath to Switzerland.
可能是拜伦勋爵的比喻。
Yes. I'm not sure if that was Lord Byron that did that.
我们家称这里是"无海之滨"。
Our family, we call it a seaside without sea.
非常感谢。再见。
Thank you very much indeed. OK, thank you. Bye-bye. Bye.
虽然铁路带来了旅游业，但19世纪它更重要的角色是
Although the railways brought tourism to the area, they had a more important role in the 19th century -
将货物运输到全国各地。
to transport freight from here to the rest of the country.
我现在要离开旅游小镇马特洛克巴斯，
I'm now leaving the very tiny resort of Matlock Bath, which was always about tourism,
前往更大的工业城市马特洛克。
for the much bigger Matlock, which was a city of industry.
最后一段旅程将前往6英里外的罗斯利，在马特洛克换乘。
For the last leg of my journey I'm heading just six miles away to Rowsley, changing trains at Matlock.
一踏上这个月台，
From the moment I arrived on this platform,
我就闻到火车头的特殊气味，
I got that scent of railway engine,
那种直冲鼻腔的独特气息。
that special stench that goes right up inside your nostrils.
我年纪够大还记得蒸汽机车，这瞬间让我回到
I am old enough to remember trains pulled by steam engines, and it just took me straight back
童年时光。
to my childhood.
另一样唤起回忆的是这种通道式列车，
The other thing that's really bringing back the memories is this sort of corridor train,
60年代及更早时期的典型车型。
which was so typical in the '60s, and long before that.
铁路穿过峰区最美的风景。
The line passes through some of the prettiest scenery in the Peak District.
布拉德肖记载，
According to Bradshaw,
德比郡"美景如画。
in Derbyshire, "The exquisitely beautiful prevails.
"高耸岩壁与雄奇峭壁，林木葱郁，壮丽高原与圆润山丘。
"The lofty rocks and bold crags, richly wooded, the magnificent uplands and rounded knolls.
"德文特河、怀伊河、多夫河等银带般的溪流穿行于
"The sweet valleys intersected with silver streams such as the Derwent, the Wye, the Dove,
"甜美山谷间，构成绝美画卷。"
"are comprised in one beautiful picture."
19世纪时，这是米德兰铁路伦敦至曼彻斯特繁忙线路的一部分。
In the 19th century, this line was part of the busy Midland Railway route from London to Manchester.
如今这是仅存的运营段，
Today, it's the only part of the line still open,
承载着日间游客和蒸汽火车爱好者，比如司机罗杰·哈利特。
and carries day-trippers and those who love steam trains, like driver Roger Hallett.
幸会。罗杰，我是迈克尔·波蒂略，您好吗？还不错。
Pleased to meet you. Roger, Michael Portillo, how do you do? Not so bad.
您开火车多久了？
How long have you been driving the engines?
约15年。您是志愿者吗？
About 15 years, now. You're just a volunteer, are you?
是的。您一定很热爱这份工作。
Yeah, just a volunteer. And you really love it, I bet.
当然，这太棒了。
Yeah, absolutely, it's brilliant.
我常对父亲说，若我年长些定会直接加入铁路系统。
I often said to my father, if I had been slightly older, I would have gone straight onto the railways.
我们小时候都梦想这个。正是。
That's what we always wanted to do when we were kids. Exactly.
太棒了。感谢您让我搭乘。不客气。
Wonderful. Thank you very much for the ride, by the way. No problem.
谢谢，很平稳。再见。
Thank you, very smooth. Bye-bye.
罗杰将我送到白峰腹地斯坦顿荒原附近的罗斯利。
Roger's dropped me off at Rowsley, near Stanton Moor, in the heart of the White Peak.
白峰得名于当地石材。
It takes its name from the local stone.
在这个以采石场闻名的地区，
In this area which is famous for its stone from quarries,
水运时代需人工装车再转运驳船，成本极高，
in the days of water transport, this stuff had to be manhandled onto carts and then on to barges,
只能就地使用。
which is incredibly expensive, so it could only be used locally.
但铁路使石材得以运往
But with the railways, the stone from the quarries could be taken
利物浦、伦敦等英国各地。
to Liverpool, to London, all over Britain.
这里的石材开采加工史超2000年，
The stone here has been mined and worked for over 2,000 years,
但19世纪铁路开通后采石业迅猛发展。
but the quarries expanded rapidly in the 19th century, when the railway arrived.
德比郡石材突然可以销往各地。
Suddenly, Derbyshire stone could travel anywhere.
工业革命带来财富，城镇扩张需要更多德比郡石材。
As the Industrial Revolution brought wealth, the towns grew, needing more and more Derbyshire stone.
伦敦最宏伟的建筑也采用这种石材，
It found its way into some of the grandest buildings in London,
包括纳尔逊纪念柱和特拉法加广场。
including Nelson's Column and Trafalgar Square.
罗斯利附近的哈登庄园建于12世纪，
Near Rowsley, the 12th-century manor Haddon Hall was built
近期修复也使用了德比郡石材。
with Derbyshire stone, which was also used in its recent restoration.
石灰岩、砂岩和粗砂岩至今仍在此开采。
Limestone, sandstone and gritstone are all still quarried here.
除用于新建筑外，还被雕刻成
As well as being used in new buildings, they're also carved
永恒纪念碑。
into perpetual memorials.
是马克吗？迈克尔，您好！是我。幸会。
Are you Mark? Michael, how are you? I am. Good to see you.
石匠马克·伊顿从事德比郡石材加工逾30年。
Stonemason Mark Eaton has been working with Derbyshire stone for over 30 years.
马克，您在这里做什么工作？
Tell me, Mark, what do you do here? What is all this about?
我从当地采石场选取
I bring in the raw block
适合特定项目的原石。
from local quarries, suited for the particular job I'm working on.
主要专注修复工作。
My main focus is on restoration work.
德比郡石材有何特别？
What makes Derbyshire stone special?
耐久性极佳，是建筑用的上乘材料。
It's the durability of it. It's a very good stone for construction, for building purposes.
耐风化，使用寿命长。
It ages well, it wears well, and it does last a good long time.
虽然采用新技术开采，
Although new technology is used to quarry the stone,
但加工技艺仍如150年前布拉德肖时代。
many of the techniques used to work it are as they were in Bradshaw's day 150 years ago.
这里有块石料。
Got a piece of stone over here.
我该怎么做？我已画好基准线。
What do I do? Right, I've set a line around here to work upon.
需要塑造出
Just to form
前沿轮廓。
the leading edge.
想试试吗？好的。
Would you like to have a go at that? Yeah, let me have a go at that.
角度放低些，别凿太多。
OK. Quite a low angle, try not to take too much off.
学徒需至少三年才能雕刻复杂纪念碑。
It would take an apprentice at least three years to learn to carve an intricate stone memorial.
这是高度专业化工作，我肯定需要更久。
It's highly specialised work, and would certainly take me much longer.
我很谨慎。
I'm being quite cautious.
没关系。就这样，角度再陡些。
That's OK. That's it. A little bit steeper again.
这需要极强的专注力吧？
You must need unbelievable powers of concentration on this.
工作时不会发短♥信♥吧？
You're not sending text messages while you are doing this, are you?
绝对不会。
No, not at all.
谢谢，我真的很享受。这是难得的体验。
Thank you, I really enjoyed that. A real privilege to do it, actually.
我意识到自布拉德肖时代以来这里变化巨大——
I realise how much has changed here since Bradshaw's day -
蒸汽机车不再穿行乡间，受损地貌正逐步修复。
steam engines no longer chug across the countryside, and ravaged landscapes are slowly being repaired.
但在我周围，如德比郡石材等行业中，
But all around me, in industries like Derbyshire stone, the massive changes introduced here
约两百年前的巨变影响延续至今。
almost two centuries ago can be traced right up to the present day.
这些喷吐烟雾的火车头将工业革命带到
These smoking railway engines brought the Industrial Revolution
包括峰区在内的偏远地区。
to even the remotest parts, including the Peak District.
它们给山区带来污染，同时也为德比郡采石场
They brought pollution to the hills but they brought opportunities, too,
创造了机遇。
to the stone quarries of Derbyshire.
如今蒸汽机车已成怀旧符号♥。
Now the steam engines are just nostalgia.
明天的旅程将探访世界上最古老的运营工厂。
On tomorrow's journey, I'll be visiting the oldest working factory in the world.
英格兰制♥造♥。这让你自豪吗？
Made in England. Made in England. Does that make you proud?
当然，这是我们乐见的。
Oh, yes, that's what we like to see.
我将探寻都市生活的避世之所。
I'll be finding escape from busy city life.
我们认为这是英国首个公共公园，建于1840年。
We think it's Britain's first public park, laid out in 1840.
还将揭秘伯顿啤酒被誉为最佳的原因。
And I'll be discovering why Burton's beer is said to be the best.
桶内熟成两周，酒馆存放一周。
Two weeks conditioning in the cask, a week in the pub.
十分钟喝完。你喝得真慢。
And ten minutes to drink. You're a slow drinker.
伯顿啤酒。
Piva Burtonski.