英国铁路纪行（2010）

Great British Railway Journeys S01E04

Part 3 Aug. 24, 2025, 4:25 p.m.

All the windows up here would be iced up,
完全看不清外面
you wouldn't be able to see out of them.
船长依靠除雾窗驾驶船只安全航行
The skipper relied on his clear view screen to steer the ship to safety.
这是加热窗每分钟旋转
It's a heated window and it spins round at
3000转所以始终清晰
3,000 revolutions, so it's permanently clear.
船长会连续数小时透过这里
So, the skipper would spend hours just looking through here and using
用探照灯观察前方肯你想念大海吗？
his searchlight to see what is ahead of him. Do you miss the sea, Ken?
非常想念 22年从厨房♥最底层
I do, very much. 22 years coming from the bottom rung in the galley,
一路奋斗到这个位置
all the way up to reach this stage.
我可以很坦然地说我愿意重来一次
I could quite happily say that I would do it all again.
但赫尔的拖网捕鱼时代即将终结
But Hull's trawling days were coming to an end.
1970年代初冰岛人开始严格保护渔业资源
In the early 1970s, the Icelanders became fiercely protective of their fish stocks.
他们袭击在其海域捕捞的
They attacked British trawlers scooping fish from
英国拖网船引发"鳕鱼战争"
their waters in what became known as the Cod Wars.
冰岛人的炮弹在拖网船钢板
'The Icelanders' shells had plunged holes through
留下孔洞有些位于吃水线以下
'the trawler's steel plates, some of them below the water line,
有段时间船身严重下沉
'and at one stage she had settled low in the water.'
结果英国拖网船被实施配额限制
As a result, quotas were imposed on British trawlers, limiting their catch.
赫尔127艘拖网船缩减至仅剩6艘
Hull's fleet of 127 trawlers was reduced to just six
产业崩溃
and the industry collapsed.
如今赫尔的码头再次繁忙起来
These days, Hull's docks are busy again.
这是英国增长最快的货运港口
It's the fastest growing cargo port in Britain,
但现在的货物是斯堪的纳维亚木材而非鱼类
but now it's dealing in Scandinavian timber rather than fish.
继续旅程前我要在此过夜
Before I continue my journey, I'm going to spend the night here,
布拉德肖指南为我找到了绝佳住处
and my Bradshaw's Guide has found me a great place to stay.
太方便了酒店就在车站里
How wonderfully convenient, my hotel is in the station.
请给我半品脱苦啤酒
Can I have a half of bitter, please?
过去这里曾接待过许多尊贵客人
'In the past, it's provided a bed for some very distinguished clients.'
这家酒店名为皇家酒店
This hotel is called The Royal
纪念维多利亚女王和阿尔伯特亲王1854年下榻于此
in honour of the fact that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed here in 1854.
我钟爱这类经典铁路酒店
I love these classic railway hotels.
这家甚至保留了火车站拱门
This one even has the arches of a railway station.
位置绝佳为疲惫旅人提供应得的休憩
Perfectly positioned to provide for the weary traveller a well-earned rest.
现在我要离开赫尔沿北海海岸前往布里德灵顿
'I'm now moving on from Hull, up the North Sea coast to Bridlington.'
令人惊讶的是布拉德肖描述了海岸侵蚀
Somewhat surprisingly, Bradshaw's describes the coastal erosion.
"东赖丁的整个海岸线
"All this coast of the East Riding is in the
正处于变化过程中海水不断侵蚀陆地"
process of change, the sea gaining on the shores."
可见当时维多利亚时代的人
So, back then, the Victorians were already
已在担忧悬崖坍塌
worried about the cliffs crumbling away.
但他们绝对预料不到
But one thing they could never have expected
北海鳕鱼会有枯竭的一天
was that the North Sea could run out of cod.
我迫切想向气候专家约翰·平纳加
I'm keen to find out from climate expert
了解真实情况
John Pinnegar, what the real situation is.
多年来变化很大
Over the years there have been many changes,
赫尔已非昔日渔港
obviously Hull isn't the fishing port it used to be,
部分源于政♥治♥因素
some of that's to do with politics, to do with
被逐出冰岛海域等
being driven out of Icelandic waters and so on.
能得出环境变化的结论吗？
Can you draw any kind of conclusions about environmental change?
普遍认为鳕鱼正像多数物种
There's a general thought that cod are
一样向北迁移
moving northwards, as with most species.
过去25年移♥动♥了约40至400公里
Between about 40 kilometres and 400 kilometres over the last 25 years.
有暖水物种迁入我们寒冷水域吗？
Is anything moving from warmer waters into our colder waters?
很有趣我们开始看到更多
It's very interesting, we starting to see a lot more
暖水物种通常生活在
warm water species, that we normally associate with
地中海比如红鲻鱼凤尾鱼还有鲈鱼
the Mediterranean, things like red mullet, anchovy, and also sea bass.
鲈鱼商业捕捞的北界在约克郡
Sea bass have their northern limit to the commercial fisheries in Yorkshire here,
不过北方小渔民也能捕获
although they're caught further north by small fishermen.
英国约有2.5万小渔民定期捕捞鲈鱼
There's around 25,000 small fishermen in the UK that regularly fish for sea bass.
英吉利海峡鲈鱼数量过去十年翻了两番
Sea bass numbers in the Channel have quadrupled over the last ten years.
或许英国公众不必过分担忧
So maybe the worry for the British public is not
鱼类绝迹
so much that we're not going to have any fish,
而是需要改变口味
but that we've got to change our tastes.
比如从鳕鱼转向鲈鱼
We'll have to move from, say, cod to sea bass.
确实英国人食用鱼类
Absolutely. In Britain, we're fairly restricted in the fish
范围有限英格兰南部尤其偏爱鳕鱼
that we tend to eat, so particularly in the south of England, people prefer cod.
或许得习惯食用
Maybe they'll have to get used to eating
鲈鱼红鲻鱼和更多凤尾鱼
sea bass and red mullet and more anchovy.
还有海鲂等都是美味
Other things like John Dory, as well, all of which are very nice to eat,
南方人常吃但本地传统上没有
and people eat them further south, but not traditionally here.
改吃鲈鱼吧！情况本可能更糟
Let them eat sea bass! It could be worse. It could be a lot worse.
谢谢约翰专程前来再见
Thank you, John. Thanks for making the journey. Bye-bye. Bye.
这一定是铁路网中
This must be one of the most beautifully kept,
维护最好最美丽的车站之一
one of the prettiest stations on the network.
您好！我想说这个车站和小卖♥♥部太美了
Hello! I just wanted to say what a beautiful station, what a beautiful buffet this is.
确实运转良好
It is, it works very well.
这是沿线乃至全国维护最佳的车站之一
It's one of the best kept stations on the line, if not in the country.
可以说是全国最佳
I would say possibly in the country.
这样保持很多年了吗？
Has it been like this for many years?
大约23年前由玛德琳·克鲁克
It started off approximately 23 years ago
开始经营她是我的前任
by a lady called Madeleine Crook, who was the proprietor before me,
最初只有几盆花
and she started off with a couple of tubs of flowers,
逐年发展成现在这样
and over the years, it's got to what it is now.
很多人进来称赞"真漂亮"吗？
Do many people come in and say, "Congratulations, this is really lovely"?
确实很多是的
A lot of people do, yeah.
非常感谢
Thank you very much.
布拉德肖被布里德灵顿迷住
Bradshaw was captivated by Bridlington.
他写道："这个迷人的度假胜地位于约克郡海岸
He says, "This attractive resort lies on the Yorkshire coast,
"但在弗兰伯勒角转向西的海岸线处
"but at that point where the line turns westward from Flamborough Head
"然后向南弯曲形成
"and then sweeping round to the south forms
一个宽阔的海湾名为布里德灵顿湾"
a capacious bay called Bridlington Bay."
布拉德肖时代布里德灵顿是西约克郡
In Bradshaw's day, Bridlington was a holiday spot
乘火车而来的产业工人的度假地
for industrial workers arriving by train from West Yorkshire.
如今仍是热门目的地无论是想钓鱼
It's still a popular destination, whether it's a spot of fishing
还是在海湾宽阔沙滩上度过午后时光
you're after, or an afternoon on the wide sands of the bay.
这里也一直是渔港和赫尔一样
'It's always been a working fishing port, too, and just like Hull,
渔民必须适应北海的变化
'its fishermen have had to adapt to changes in the North Sea.'
海鲈鱼专家弗兰克你好啊
Frank the sea bass man, how are you?
当地渔民弗兰克·鲍威尔现在只在布里德灵顿水域作业
'Local fisherman Frank Powell now casts his nets only in Bridlington waters.'
我喜欢你的交通工具
I love your transport.
嗯很适合这工作
Yes, well, it's all right for the job, yes.
我们出发吧渔网快干了
Anyhow, let's be going, because the net's drying out,
这种阳光下鲈鱼状态不好走吧？
and in this sun, the bass won't be very good. Let's get on, shall we?
他找到更可持续的潮汐捕鱼法
He's found a new, more sustainable way to fish, using the tide.
渔网从海滩延伸到水中
His nets stretch from beach to water.
涨潮时鱼群会困在网中
When the tide comes in, the fish lodge in the net.
到了迈克尔
Here we are, Michael.
退潮时弗兰克逐个收网
'Then at low tide, Frank moves from net to net to collect the catch.'
又一条鲈鱼海鲈鱼
Another bass for you. A sea bass.
好漂亮的鱼真美
A lovely fish. Beautiful.
银光闪闪的肥美鲈鱼
A beautiful, silvery, fat fish.
所以你的渔网从海里延伸到海滩？是的
So you have a net which runs from the sea, up the beach. Yes.
海里那部分怎么办？
What about the bit that's still in the sea?
我们得涉水过去迈克尔
We have to wade out there, Michael.
你穿着防水裤你要过去吗？
Well, you're dressed for it. Are you going out there?
我要去你也得去 - 我给你准备了防水裤好吧
I am, and so are you - I've got a pair of waders for you. OK.
不用鱼钩不耗燃油非常环保
'With no hooks and no engines, it's eco-friendly,
也不存在过度捕捞风险
and there's little danger of overfishing,
每次捕获量都很小
'as only small numbers are caught at a time.'
所以你得把整张网拉上来？
So you have to pull it all the way out, do you?
对就这样一直拉
Yeah, you just keep going like this.
直到拉完为止那边有收获吗？
All the time, until you come to the end. Did you find anything out there?
没有今天鱼群都在近岸处
No, that's it. Most of the fish today have been up the beach.
你一直用这种方式捕鱼吗弗兰克？
Have you always fished like this, Frank?
不我毕业后先在赫尔深海拖网船工作
No, I started off on trawlers from Hull, deep sea ones, when I left school.
1974年鳕鱼战争后赫尔渔业崩溃
When Hull collapsed in '74 after the Cod War, I
我就搬到布里德灵顿继续捕鱼
moved to Bridlington and carried on fishing there.
介意我先上岸弄干衣服吗？
Would you mind if I go ashore and dry myself?
当然不介意！去吧不过别被渔网绊倒
Certainly not! Go on, then, but don't fall over on this net.
你这种鲈鱼捕捞需要许可证吧？
You do this sea bass fishing under some kind of licence certificate?
对我们有鲈鱼捕捞许可证
Yeah, we have a licence for the sea bass.
政♥府♥颁发的许可