英国铁路纪行（2010）

1840年，有个人彻底改变了英国的旅行方式。
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain.
他叫乔治·布拉德肖，他的铁路指南激励维多利亚时代的人们踏上铁轨之旅。
His name was George Bradshaw and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks.
他逐站告诉人们该去哪里旅行、看什么景点、住在哪里。
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see and where to stay.
如今170年过去，我将沿着他的足迹展开四次长途旅程，
Now, 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys across the length
横跨整个英国，探寻布拉德肖笔下不列颠的遗存。
and breadth of the country to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.
手持19世纪的布拉德肖指南，我继续从德比郡前往伦敦的旅程，
Using my 19th-century Bradshaw's Guide I'm continuing my journey from Derbyshire to London,
途经英格兰工业中心沃里克郡，
passing through the industrial heartland of England, in Warwickshire
再进入田园风光的白金汉郡。
and on into rural Buckinghamshire.
这本指南总能带我找到至今犹存的地标与人物，
My Bradshaw's has often been a reliable guide to places and people that still exist.
但今天或许会有例外。
But maybe there will be an exception today.
有座城市在布拉德肖指南中备受推崇，却鲜少出现在现代旅行手册里。
One city is highly recommended in Bradshaw's but scarcely features in modern guidebooks.
它就是考文垂。
It's Coventry.
今天的旅程，我将重温考文垂大轰炸的历史。
On today's journey, I'll be reliving the Coventry Blitz.
当时能清晰辨认德国飞机的声响。
You could pick the sound of the German planes up.
它们的引擎发出"嗡嗡"的低沉轰鸣。
Their engines were - vumm, vumm - a humming, humming noise.
我还将在艾尔斯伯里惹些小麻烦。
I'll be ruffling some feathers in Aylesbury.
您的家族经营这行很久了？
Your family has been in the business a while?
有记载的始于1775年。不！绝对是世代传承。
1775, that we know of. No! Absolutely, continuously.
我将聆听铁路如何在二战期间拯救数千生命的故事。
I'll hear how the railways saved thousands of lives during World War II.
这是当时疏散人群规模最大的车站。
This was the largest station where the evacuations took place from.
至今不知当年如何挤上正确的列车。
How we found our way on to the right train I'll never know.
本周我一直从峰区的巴克斯顿出发，
All this week, I've been travelling from Buxton in the Peak District,
穿越中部工业区，前往伯明翰。
through the industrial Midlands, towards Birmingham.
这条南向铁路由土木工程师罗伯特·史蒂芬森于1837年修建，
The line south was built by civil engineer Robert Stephenson in 1837
是最早连接布拉德肖时代帝国之都伦敦的
and was one of the first intercity lines
城际线路之一。
to the great imperial city of Bradshaw's era, London.
今天我从伯明翰郊外的伯恩维尔继续南行，
Today, I'm continuing south from Bournville on the edge of Birmingham
前往考文垂、艾尔斯伯里谷地，最终抵达沃特福德。
to Coventry, the Vale of Aylesbury and on to Watford.
这条线路自布拉德肖时代已历经巨变。
The line has seen many changes since Bradshaw's day.
我手持19世纪旅行指南，
I'm following a 19th-century guidebook
其创始人布拉德肖是个技术狂热者，他痴迷科技创新。
and the man who started it, Bradshaw, was really crazy about technology. He loved technology.
我想他看到您的电子设备会兴奋不已。
I think he'd really be very, very excited by your information.
他是首个整合所有列车时刻表的人。原来如此。
He was the first person to put together all the timetables. Right, OK.
您现在把时刻表装在这个小盒子里带着乘火车。
The idea that you've got them in a little box travelling on a train.
我们以前得随身携带厚重的老式时刻表，
We used to have to carry the old timetable with us
这么大，这么厚。非常笨重。
which was that size, that thick. Obviously very thick and heavy.
您现在有电子版布拉德肖了。没错，电子版。
You've got an electronic Bradshaw. An electronic Bradshaw, yeah.
他会为此欣喜若狂。
He'd be thrilled.
布拉德肖时代到考文垂约需30分钟，
It would have taken about 30 minutes to get to Coventry in Bradshaw's day,
当时列车时速约60英里。
on trains travelling at around 60mph.
惊人的是，如今耗时几乎相同。
Surprisingly, it takes about the same time today.
"下一站：考文垂"
'The next station will be Coventry.'
"下车的乘客请检查随身物品"
If you're leaving the train here, just check to make sure you've everything with you.
"下车时请注意站台间隙..."
'Do take care as you step from the train onto the platform...'
哨声不断。到站了，该下车了。
A lot of whistling going on. That's it. That's me.
[提示音] 谢谢，再见。
DOORS BEEP Thank you. Bye-bye. Bye.
从伯明翰到伦敦的整条铁路线上，
All along the railway line, from Birmingham to London,
遍布着1960年代重建的车站。
you have these stations that were rebuilt in the 1960s.
起点伯明翰新街站，终点尤斯顿站，中间的考文垂站，
Birmingham New Street at one end, Euston at the other end and Coventry in the middle.
这些巨型玻璃盒子般的建筑，记得60年代时
These enormous glass boxes and I remember in the 60s being
我曾为这种前卫建筑深深震撼。
very impressed by this brave new architecture.
如今它们难免显得过时，
Inevitably, they now look old-fashioned
但没有什么比"昨日未来"更快成为老古董。
but nothing dates faster than yesterday's view of the future.
如今的考文垂已非旅游热点，
These days, Coventry isn't really on the tourist trail,
或许因为二战轰炸摧毁了太多城市遗迹。
probably because so much of the city was destroyed during the blitz of World War II.
这里与令布拉德肖惊叹的考文垂已截然不同。
It's a very different Coventry from the one that so impressed Bradshaw.
他写道："这座古城最先引人注目的是精美的尖顶"
He says the fines steeples are the first to strike one in this old city.
"后街随处可见古老的山墙房♥屋"
Many old fashioned gable houses are to be found in the backstreets.
这正是朱迪斯·达兰特记忆中的考文垂。
That's the Coventry that Judith Durrant remembers well.
您少女时代生活在这里。
You were a girl in Coventry.
那时的城市什么样？
What was the city like then?
美极了。到处都是古建筑，
The city was beautiful. A lot of old buildings.
街道铺着鹅卵石。
The streets were all cobbled streets.
我尤其记得市中心那些美丽的教堂建筑，
I remember all these old beautiful buildings and particularly the churches in the centre.
考文垂的三座尖塔...
The three spires of Coventry...
还有大教堂本身。
and the cathedral itself.
考文垂本质上是座14世纪的中世纪城市，
Coventry was an essentially medieval city built in the 14th century,
当时是英格兰第四富裕的城市，
when it was the fourth wealthiest city in England
但1940年的那个夜晚改变了一切。
but one night in 1940, it was changed forever.
对您和家人而言，1940年11月14日那晚如何开始？
For you and your family, how did the night of November 14th 1940 begin?
起初如常。我们...
It began as a normal night. We...
警报很早就响起了。
The sirens did sound early.
大约晚上七点，
I think it was probably about 7 o'clock
我们正准备就寝。
but we were then being prepared to go to bed.
像往常一样直接躲进防空洞，
We just went straight into the shelter as a normal night
但后来发现那注定是个不寻常的夜晚。
but as we found out later, it was not to be a normal night.
那晚德军发动了代号♥"月光奏鸣曲"的空袭行动。
Instead it marked the start of a German bombing operation called Moonlight Sonata.
能清晰辨认德国飞机的声响。
You could pick up the sound of the German planes up.
它们的引擎——"嗡嗡"——
Their engines were - vumm, vumm -
持续低鸣。
a humming, humming noise.
立刻就能听出不是英国飞机。
So you knew instantly that they were not English planes.
你能听见...
You could hear the...
炸♥弹♥下坠的呼啸声。
the bombs whistling down.
爆♥炸♥骇人，空气中弥漫着粉尘，呛得人无法呼吸。
The explosions were horrendous and you could smell the dust, you could chew the dust.
那是个恐怖的夜晚。
It was a very horrendous night.
这是二战期间英国遭受的最猛烈空袭之一。
It was one of the worst bombing raids on Britain of World War II.
600架飞机持续轰炸六小时，考文垂几乎被夷为平地。
600 planes bombarded Coventry for six hours, by which time most of it had been blown to smithereens.
满目疮痍的城市给您什么感受？
What impression did the devastated city make on you?
太可怕了。
Horrendous.
当然，
Of course,
母亲把我们看得更紧了，
my mother kept us, sort of, closer
因为到处都不安全。
because of everything that was going on.
但我们必须学会适应，继续生活。
But we had to learn to live and we had to readjust.
这场灾难让我们瞬间长大。
It made us all grow up. We all grew up very quickly.
那个夜晚夺走500条生命，成为朱迪斯永恒的创伤记忆。
500 people died on a night that Judith will remember forever.
正如我所说，这些记忆将伴随我终生。
As I say, these memories will be with me for the rest of my life.
您曾穿梭于城市废墟，
You once picked your way through the rubble of the city
如今目睹它重建新生。
and now you see it rebuilt.
您对现在的考文垂有何感受？
How do you feel about what you see now?
我很爱它。很美。
I love it. It's beautiful.
那些旧记忆仍在，
Those old memories are still there
但人总要向前看，
but with everything, you have to move forward
我觉得考文垂很美。
and I think Coventry is beautiful.
真正美丽的是新建的圣米迦勒大教堂。
What is indeed beautiful is the new St Michael's Cathedral.
它融合了14-15世纪被炸毁的老教堂遗迹，
Built to incorporate the ruins of the 14th and 15th century cathedral that was destroyed in the blitz.
象征着考文垂的重生。
It's a poignant symbol of Coventry's rebirth.
地面上镌刻着巨幅文字：
On the floor here in gigantic letters,
"献给上帝的荣耀，
"To the glory of God,
"此教堂毁于公元1940年11月14日。
"this cathedral burnt November 14th AD 1940.
"今于1962年重建"
"Now rebuilt 1962."
一切尽在不言中。
I guess it says it all.
我觉得太棒了。
I think it's wonderful.
新教堂处处体现着对历史的致敬——
I find the new cathedral is full of reference.
这些立柱呼应哥特式风格，
These columns refer to Gothic columns.
屋顶结构延续哥特建筑精髓，
The way the roof is built refers to the Gothic structure.
彩绘玻璃传承哥特艺术传统。
Obviously the stained glass refers to Gothic stained glass.
每处细节都饱含对历史的尊重与追忆。
Full of reference and reverence for what was there before.
最令我惊讶的是，尽管历经六小时狂轰滥炸，
What's come as a great surprise to me though is that despite
数千枚炸♥弹♥的摧残，
the thousands of bombs dropped over those six hours,
今天仍保留着大量中世纪城市遗迹。
there's a remarkable amount of the medieval city that survives today.
现代建筑群中，处处可见当年考文垂的辉煌印记。
Tucked between the new, there are numerous hints of just how impressive Coventry was.
早上好。早啊。
Good morning. Morning.
正在开门营业？是的。
You're opening up, I see. I am, yes.
您在这栋中世纪建筑里做生意。
You trade in this lovely medieval building.
它竟在1940年轰炸中幸存。确实如此。
It somehow survived the bombing of 1940. It did. It did, yes.
街尾还有座圣约翰教堂，
We've also got St John's Church at the bottom of the street
历史可追溯到...英国内战时期。
which goes back to... the English Civil War.
战俘曾关押于此，英语短语"sent to Coventry"（冷落）
The prisoners were kept in there and that's where the term
正是源自这条街尽头的教堂。
sent to Coventry comes from, that church at the bottom of the road.
哈！我感觉这座城市被严重低估了。
Ha! I'm feeling that this is a city that's somehow undersold.