英国铁路纪行（2010）

Great British Railway Journeys S01E08

Part 1 Aug. 24, 2025, 4:25 p.m.

1840年，有个人彻底改变了英国的出行方式
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain.
他叫乔治·布拉德肖
His name was George Bradshaw
他的铁路指南激励维多利亚时代的人们踏上铁轨之旅
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks.
他逐站指引人们旅行目的地
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel,
观光景点与住宿选择
what to see and where to stay.
如今170年过去
Now, 170 years later,
我将沿着四条长途路线穿越英国各地
I'm making four long journeys across the length and breadth of the country
探寻布拉德肖笔下英国的遗存风貌
to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.
手持19世纪的布拉德肖指南
Using my 19th century Bradshaw's guide,
我继续北行进入坎布里亚郡
I'm continuing my journey north into Cumbria,
前往湖区——当年铁路的到来
to the Lake District, where the arrival of the railways
起初引发巨大争议但像维多利亚时代的旅人一样
was, at first, extremely controversial, but like Victorian travellers before me,
我期待着壮丽的风景
I'm looking forward to spectacular scenery.
今日旅程中
On my journey today,
我将探寻维多利亚游客蜂拥至温德米尔的缘由
I'll be finding out why Victorian tourists flocked to Windermere.
罗杰，这布置真精美堪称优雅典范
Roger, what a lovely spread. And this is the height of elegance.
我还要了解肯德尔的风物
I'll be learning a thing or two about Kendal.
请给我肯德尔薄荷糕
Erm, Kendal mint cake, please.
我们不卖♥♥这个！它其实不是糕点
Erm, we don't stock Kendal mint cake! It isn't actually a cake.
太意外了真抱歉！
Well, that has thrown me. I'm so sorry!
我还将探索铁路如何改变农耕生活
And I'll be finding out how the railways changed farming life.
铁路将丰饶物产运往各地销♥售♥
You would bring all that abundance of food to the population to sell.
我认为铁路极大改变了农业
I think railways have changed farming considerably.
我的北上之旅已近半程
I'm almost halfway through my journey north
从普雷斯顿前往苏格兰
from Preston to Scotland.
绕道德特至卡莱尔线路后
After a detour along the Settle to Carlisle route,
我重返西海岸主线
I'm rejoining the West Coast Main Line,
即将跨越边境
before crossing the border,
前往母亲故乡柯科迪
and heading for my mother's home town of Kirkcaldy.
今日我将离开加斯代尔
Today, I'm leaving Garsdale,
横穿坎布里亚郡前往温德米尔
and travelling across Cumbria to Windermere,
再继续前往肯德尔
before continuing to Kendal.
布拉德肖根据游客时间长短
Bradshaw recommends various routes around the Lake
推荐了多条湖区游览路线
District, depending on how much time the visitor has,
我选择了他建议的两日行程
so I'm following his two-day tour, which includes
包含湖上巡游与格拉斯米尔探访
a cruise on the lake and a visit to Grasmere.
湖区最引人注目的就是浓郁的绿意
The first thing you notice about the Lake District is that it is intensely green.
没有丰沛水源就无此景致
And you don't get that colour without a lot of water.
像今天这样的天气
On a day like today, it's tempting to think
在温暖车厢里观赏湖区美景最惬意
that the Lake District is best viewed from the warmth of a railway carriage,
但我必须在温德米尔下车
but I do need to get out at Windermere.
19世纪早期
In the early 19th century,
华兹华斯与柯勒律治等诗人
poets, like Wordsworth and Coleridge,
使湖区深受知识精英青睐
made the Lake District popular amongst the educated elite.
1847年铁路通至温德米尔时
When the railway arrived at Windermere in 1847,
普通民众也开始大量涌入
large numbers of ordinary people began coming here, too.
铁路公♥司♥甚至将车站名
The railway company even changed the name
从伯斯威特改为温德米尔
of the station from Birthwaite to Windermere
以吸引更多游客
to attract more visitors.
我正在寻找布拉德肖盛赞的壮观景色
I'm looking for the view that Bradshaw says is really rather impressive.
"从温德米尔车站望去
"From Windermere Station, the lake appears in view,
"湖中岛屿星罗棋布葱郁林地环绕湖畔"
"with its beautiful islands and grassy, well-wooded fells round its borders."
显然这不是布拉德肖时代的车站原貌
But clearly this isn't the railway station that was here in Bradshaw's time,
我猜原址现在是家超♥市♥
and my guess is that it's that thing that is now, apparently, a supermarket.
老车站就在隔壁
The original station is next door,
布拉德肖和早期游客当年就抵达于此
and this is where Bradshaw and those early tourists would have arrived.
早上好！这里以前是火车站吧？
Morning! I'm assuming that this used to be the railway station, is that right?
这是肯德尔至温德米尔线的终点站
This was the terminus of the Kendal to Windermere line.
建筑很美确实
Lovely building. It is.
属于二级保护建筑我的19世纪指南说
It's Grade II listed. My 19th century guide says when I arrive at Windermere Station,
车站能看到绝佳湖景是的
I will have a wonderful view of the lake. Yes.
新车站看不到这后面能看到吗？
You don't get it from the new station. Any idea of whether I can get it from behind here?
后面也看不到
You won't get it from behind here.
真遗憾看来找观景点
Oh, dear. Seems more difficult than I thought to
比预想困难但我会继续尝试谢谢
find a view, but I'm going to keep trying. Thank you.
如果有观景点应该就在这
If there's any view, it's going to be from here.
还是看不到
No, nothing.
这些新建筑挡住了
With all this new building here,
根本看不见湖景
you just can't see the lake.
实在可惜
Which is a pity, really,
否则这里会是英国车站最佳观景处之一
because otherwise this would be one of the great views from an English railway station.
早上好！
Good morning!
您好吗？很好
How are you? I'm very well.
您很面熟啊！见到您真高兴
I recognise the face. Oh! It's lovely to see you.
我在用老指南书是的
I'm using an old guidebook. Yes.
据说车站原可欣赏绝美湖景
Apparently, there used to be a lovely view from the railway station of the lake.
以前确实有早年能看到
Yes, there did. In the old days, there did.
但现在建筑密集...
But it's just the general build-up...
游客增多后车站不得不
because the numbers have increased, they've had to
扩建设施对吧？是的
extend the facilities, haven't they, really? Yes.
这里原本是片空地
I mean, this used to be just a field, over here.
这个停车场？差不多以前很容易看到湖
This car park? More or less. You could see the lake from here, quite easily. Oh.
现在游客量惊人
It's incredible, the number of people that do come here.
您对此怎么看？是欢迎游客
How do you feel about that? Do you welcome the
还是对变迁感到遗憾？
visitors or are you upset at the way it's changed?
我为商户感到高兴
Well, I feel pleased for the business people,
但作为非从业者我们选择避开喧嚣
but, not being a business person myself, we keep out of the way.
铁路进入湖区曾引发巨大争议
The arrival of the railways in the Lake District
was hugely controversial.
当时居民担心自然环境遭破坏
At the time, the locals feared for their beautiful countryside.
150年后
150 years later,
温德米尔已过度开♥发♥
Windermere has indeed become so built-up,
我不得不远离城镇才得见其著名景观
I need to get right out of the town to get a glimpse of its most famous attraction.
终于看到了车站承诺的景致
At last, I've got the view I was promised from the railway station,
温德米尔湖在眼前铺展
of Lake Windermere, spread out before me,
岛屿点缀林岸逶迤
with its islands, with the woodlands coming down to the water's edge
与150年前布拉德肖描绘的画面
and still actually quite recognisable from the picture that appears in Bradshaw's
仍颇为相似
150 years ago.
随着列车带来更多游客
As the trains brought ever more visitors,
铁路公♥司♥开始提供联运蒸汽船服务
the railway companies began to provide an integrated steamboat service
载游客泛舟湖上
to take the tourists across the lake.
维多利亚时代的售票处仍在此处
The Victorian booking office, where you could purchase tickets, is still here,
虽今日已难辨原貌
although it doesn't look much like one today.
请给我杯咖啡好的先生
Could I have a cup of coffee, please? You can indeed, sir.
这里曾是铁路售票处吧？
I believe this building used to be a railway booking office, is that right?
是的 1858年由
Yes, it did, a long time ago. It was built in
肯德尔-温德米尔铁路公♥司♥建造
1858 by the Kendal and Windermere Railway company
租给约翰·加尼特
and leased to a John Garnett,
他是印刷商兼温德米尔邮♥政♥局♥长
who was a printer and Postmaster General for Windermere
负责印制火车票
and he printed all the railway tickets for the steam trains
和湖上蒸汽船票
and for the steamers on the lake.
火车船票都能在此购买♥♥？
So, you could get tickets for a steam train and a
是的
steamboat all from this place? Yes, that's right.
很高兴发现当地人都熟知历史
I'm really pleased. I've found that a lot of people here
这感觉真好
know their local history, it's really nice to know.
一英镑？请付一镑非常感谢
Would that be a pound? Just a pound, please. Thank you so much.
谢谢
Thank you.
你从没告诉过我这事！
You never told me that!
蒸汽船当年风靡一时——这毫不意外！
The steamboats were very popular - and no wonder!
正如布拉德肖所说"必须泛舟湖上"
As Bradshaw says, "The lake itself should be seen from the water,
"方能尽览"
"as well as the shores,
"湖光山色之美"
"to take in all its beauties."
首日行程建议湖上观光
Day one of my Bradshaw mini-tour suggests a trip out on the lake.
维多利亚时期的上流游客常租私人蒸汽船
The most well-to-do Victorian visitors hired private steamboats
边赏景边享用下午茶
to enjoy the views and take afternoon tea
我找到艘仍在运营的古船
and I've managed to find one that's still working.
罗杰！这绝对是我见过最美的船！
Roger, I can't believe it! I have never seen such a beautiful vessel in my life!
很美吧？太棒了！
It is nice, isn't it? It's lovely!
还有蒸汽机的气味和我最近见的火车一样
And, of course, smelling of steam, like all the steam engines I've seen recently.
这才是它们该有的味道
Well, this is how they should smell, isn't it?
继续加煤罗杰！好！