英国铁路纪行（2010）

Great British Railway Journeys S01E20

Part 2 Aug. 24, 2025, 4:25 p.m.

发现它保存得如此完好，你感到惊讶吗？
Were you surprised to find this in such beautiful condition?
是的，太神奇了，因为上面覆盖了好几层油漆。
Yes. It is amazing, because there were quite a few layers of paint over this.
一旦天花板完全修复，
Once the ceiling is fully repaired,
它实际上会被重新覆盖，所以你就看不到了。
it will actually be covered over, so you won't see it again.
至少不会像现在这样。首先会涂一层保护涂层，
Not like this, anyway. It's covered firstly in a protective coat,
这样它就能一直保存，
so that it's always there,
然后涂一层膨胀涂层防火，
then in an intumescent coat to make it fireproof,
之后会有艺术家回来重新绘制，
and then we have artists coming back in to repaint it all,
最终它会重获新生。
so it will eventually come back to life.
所以有点像失而复得。
So, it's a bit like Lost and Found.
这家酒店曾服务于最富有的旅行者。
The hotel catered for the wealthiest travellers.
每晚14先令，
At 14 shillings a night,
它的房♥间是伦敦最昂贵的之一。
its rooms were amongst the most expensive in London.
但随着时间的推移，由于缺乏独♥立♥浴室，
But, over time, the lack of en suite bathrooms
客人逐渐流失，酒店也没赚到多少钱。
drove the guests elsewhere, and it failed to make much money.
这屏风后面有些东西可能会让你有点惊讶。想进去看看吗？
We have got something behind this screen that should surprise you a little. If you would like to go in...
（笑声）
HE LAUGHS
太棒了，不是吗？这些优美的弧形楼梯。
Yeah, it's wonderful, isn't it? The lovely, sweeping staircases.
我以为会让我想起议会大厦，但实际上，
I thought it was going to remind me of Parliament, but actually,
议会大厦里没有任何东西能比得上这座悬浮楼梯的壮丽。
there is nothing quite as magnificent in the parliamentary building as this floating stair.
它就像悬浮在空中，对吧？
It's just floats, doesn't it?
是的。它是从墙壁悬挑出来的，踏板相互交错。
It does. It's cantilevered out from the wall with interlocking treads.
关键是，这座建筑注重的是质量而非数量。
The thing is, what we have got with this building is quality, rather than quantity.
我一路抬头看到天花板……
I'm seeing all the way up to a ceiling...
……繁星点点。
..of stars.
酒店将于2011年重新开业。
The hotel will reopen for business in 2011.
在赶下一班火车之前，我还有最后一处要看。
And, before I catch my next train, there's one last bit I must see.
旅途中我常停下来欣赏铁路时钟，我很喜欢它们。
On my journey I've often paused to admire railway clocks, which I love.
但这个时钟背后有个故事。
But, this one tells a story.
国王十字车站先建，圣潘克拉斯后建。
King's Cross was there first, St Pancras comes later.
它建得异常高。
It's built unnecessarily high.
时钟居高临下俯瞰国王十字车站，
The clock looms down over King's Cross
仿佛在说：“我们更大，我们更好。”
saying, "We're bigger, we're better."
这就是建筑中的商业竞争。
This is commercial rivalry in architecture.
两座车站建在彼此旁边可能很奇怪，
It may seem strange that the stations were built right next to each other,
但在1846年，议会规定
but in 1846, Parliament had decreed
所有通往首都的新铁路线不得进入市中心。
that all new Lines in the capital had to stop short of the centre.
这保护了伦敦市中心的历史建筑，
It protected the historic buildings in the heart of London
并催生了一种革命性的新交通系统——
and resulted in a revolutionary new transport system -
世界上第一条地铁。
the world's first underground.
我即将搭乘地铁，
So, I am about to get on an Underground train,
但不是随便哪条地铁。
but not any underground train.
这是运行在原始线路上的地铁，
One that's running on the original line,
世界上第一条地铁——
the first underground railway in the world -
大都会铁路，往返于帕丁顿和法灵顿之间。
the Metropolitan Railway that ran between Paddington and Farringdon.
它建于1863年，
It was was built in 1863
将乘客从铁路终点站运送到市区。
to bring passengers from the railway termini into the city.
它也是一条通勤线路，
It was also a commuter line,
每天有两班专列为最贫困的工人服务，
with two special trains a day for the poorest workers,
票价是正常票价的三分之一。
charging a third of the normal fare.
如今，大都会线是11条线路之一，
Today, the Metropolitan line is one of 11 routes
每天运送300万人穿梭于城市。
ferrying three million of us across the city every day.
这段线路有趣的地方在于，
What is interesting about this section of line
时不时地，
is that every now and again,
我们会从地下行驶到地面上。
we pass from being underground to being above surface.
这是因为这些早期的铁路线
That's because these original railway lines
并不是在隧♥道♥中挖掘的。
were not dug in tunnels.
挖了一条巨大的沟渠，大部分地方被覆盖起来。
A huge trench was dug and, in most places, it was covered over.
但有些地方留了空隙，因为当时是蒸汽火车，
But, gaps were left here and there because they were steam trains,
需要让烟雾有地方排出。
and there had to be somewhere for the smoke to escape.
“下一站是法灵顿。可换乘国家铁路服务。”
'The next station is Farringdon. Change for national rail services.'
布拉德肖指南自1839年起每月出版。
Bradshaw guides were published monthly from 1839 onwards.
它们没有标注日期，所以需要一些侦探工作
They're not dated, so you need a bit of detective work
才能确定某一版的年代。
to discover the age of any particular edition.
这是布拉德肖的伦敦地图。
This is Bradshaw's map of London.
有趣的是，我现在乘坐的线路，
What's interesting is the line I'm travelling at the moment,
帕丁顿到法灵顿之间，并没有显示。
between Paddington and Farringdon, isn't shown.
这张地图一定早于1863年。
This map must be before 1863.
当然，伦敦的大部分郊区也没有显示。
And, of course, much of London, the suburbs, isn't shown here at all.
但中心区域，西区和金融城，
But the central bit, the West End, the City,
从这张150年前的地图上依然清晰可辨。
these are absolutely recognisable from a map that is 150 years old.
第二天，我要去一个需要早起的地方。
The next day, I'm heading somewhere that requires a very early start.
现在还没到早上五点，
It's not yet five in the morning
我穿过伦敦空荡荡的街道，
an I've walked through deserted streets of London,
来到一个地方，
and I've come across a place
这里却热闹非凡，充满喧嚣。
that is absolutely humming with activity and noise.
这是史密斯菲尔德市场，
This is Smithfield Market,
一座肉市，建于布拉德肖指南出版的时代，
a meat market built around the time that Bradshaw's guide was published,
从外观上看，
and looking, to all intents and purposes,
就像一座意大利风格的维多利亚火车站。
like an Italianate Victorian railway station.
布拉德肖这样描述这座新市场：
Bradshaw says of the new market,
“长631英尺，宽246英尺，占地3.6英亩。”
"It's 631 ft long and 246 wide and covers 3.6 square acres."
但史密斯菲尔德市场的特别之处在于它直接连通
But what made Smithfield Market exceptional was the direct link
新建的地下铁路。
from the building to the brand new underground railway.
早上好，艾伦。你好吗？早上好，先生。
Morning, Alan. How are you? Morning, Sir.
“艾伦·埃兰德是一位传统的市场商人。”
'Alan Elland is a traditional market trader.'
你在这里工作多久了？
Have you worked here long?
在市场40年了。40年？是的。
On the market, 40 years. 40 years? Yes.
最早的时候，我其实不在这里工作。
In the very early days, I wasn't actually working here.
现在停车场的位置以前是铁路系统。
Where the car park is was a railway system.
主要的运输方式是铁路。
And the main transport was rail.
地铁站彻底改变了市场。
The underground station transformed the market.
在此之前，动物在现场屠宰，
Before that, animals were slaughtered on site
环境非常肮脏。
and conditions were filthy.
但有了火车，肉类可以在其他地方屠宰，
But with the trains, the meat could be slaughtered elsewhere
快速运到城市。
and transported quickly to the city.
市场环境因此改善。
The market cleaned up its act.
我小时候常来这里，看到那时的景象，
I used to come up as a little child and see it all
你简直无法想象当时的样子。
and you can't believe what it was like then.
就是那么……
It was just so...
热闹而有活力。
buzzing and lively.
史密斯菲尔德是肉类的中心，这一点毫无疑问。
Smithfield was the hub of the meat industry. There's no doubt there.
对我这样的新人来说，现在看起来已经很热闹了。
To a new comer like me it seems pretty buzzy anyway.
是的，但方式不同。变化有多大？
Well, it is, but in a different way. How much has it changed?
显然这是一座维多利亚建筑，这部分没变。
Obviously it is a Victorian building and that's unchanged.
变化很大。大约十年前进行了升级。
Dramatically. About ten years ago it was upgraded.
这部分一样，但店铺内部，
This part is the same but the shops,
十年前发生了巨大变化。
the interiors, dramatically changed ten years ago.
以前都是开放的，现在，
Everything was open and now,
你会发现，这里都是冷藏的。
well you'll find out, this is all refrigerated.
但基本流程，我想，还是一样的。
But the basic process, I guess, is the same.
肉类来自英国各地，是吗？
Meat is coming from all over Britain, is it?
是的。人们一大早就来这里采购？
Yes. And people are coming here bright and early to buy it?
是的，理念是一样的。
Yes, the idea is the same.
我们接收肉类，切割，加工。
We get the meat, cut it, process it.
进来，出去。
It comes in, goes out.
“我猜还有一件事从布拉德肖时代起就没变过。”
'There's another thing I'm guessing hasn't changed since Bradshaw's day.'
早上好。早上好。
Morning. Morning.
“几乎看不到女性。
'There's barely a woman in sight.
所以我费了很大劲才找到这两位。”
'So I've had to look hard to find these two.'
早上好。你好。早上好。
Good morning. Hello. Good morning.
早上好。你们起得真早。
Morning. You're up bright and early.
（笑声）
SHE LAUGHS
你们看起来不像是专业买♥♥肉的。
You don't look like professional meat-buyers.
是给自己买♥♥吗？是的。
Are you buying for yourselves? Yes.
为什么这么早来史密斯菲尔德买♥♥肉？
Why have you come down so early to buy meat at Smithfield?
她要办派对。
She's having a party.
我看到你们地上的袋子了。
I can see your bags on the floor.
你们真是大采购啊，对吧？
You're really going for it, aren't you?
你们几点起床的？
What time did you have to get up?