英国铁路纪行（2010）

Great British Railway Journeys S01E13

Part 1 Aug. 24, 2025, 4:25 p.m.

1840年，一个人改变了英国的旅行方式。
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain.
他名叫乔治·布拉德肖，他的铁路指南
His name was George Bradshaw and his railway guides
激励了维多利亚时代的人们踏上铁轨。
inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks.
他一步步告诉他们该去哪里旅行，
Stop by stop he told them where to travel,
看什么，住在哪里。
what to see and where to stay.
170年后的今天，我将进行四次长途旅行，
Now 170 years later I'm making four long journeys across the length
走遍全国，看看布拉德肖的英国还剩下什么。
and breadth of the country to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.
使用我19世纪的布拉德肖指南，
Using my 19th Century Bradshaw's guide,
我继续乘火车前往西部乡村。
I'm continuing my rail journey into the west country.
今天我将首次抵达英格兰南海岸。
Today I will reach England's south coast for the first time.
这里的气候、海湾和海滩使其成为
Its climate, its bays, its beaches have made it
自维多利亚时代以来游客的磁石。
a magnet for tourists since Victorian times.
但其战略位置、港口和小湾
But its strategic position, its harbours, its inlets
在此之前的几个世纪里对英国的防御至关重要。
have made it vital for Britain's defence for centuries before that.
今天我将探索为什么托基
Today I'll be discovering why Torquay
对维多利亚时代的病人如此有吸引力。
was a magnet for Victorian invalids.
这里有3000英里的大西洋。
You've got 3,000 miles of Atlantic Ocean.
来自大西洋的清新空气。
Nice, clean air coming in off the Atlantic.
这对肺部疾病有好处。
That's good for your lung disorders.
我将在美丽的达特河口捕捞鲑鱼。
I'll be fishing for salmon on the beautiful Dart estuary.
我告诉你，尼克，这些城市的手
I tell you, Nick, these city hands
这辈子都没干过这样的活！
have not done work like this in their lifetime!
我还将了解英国第一种本地货币。
And I'll be finding out about Britain's first local currency.
你在超♥市♥购物……
You shop in the supermarket...
80%的钱第二天就离开了托特尼斯。
80% of that money leaves Totnes the next morning.
这种货币无法离开托特尼斯。
This is the currency that can't leave Totnes.
我的旅程已近半程，
I'm almost half way through my journey
从斯温登沿着大西部铁路前进。
from Swindon along the Great Western Railway.
这条通往萨默塞特、德文和康沃尔的线路
This line to Somerset, Devon and Cornwall
为新的旅游业开辟了道路。
opened the way for a new tourism industry.
探索完英国里维埃拉后，
After exploring the English Riviera,
我将前往线路终点的彭赞斯。
I'll head to the end of the line at Penzance.
下一段旅程，我将从韦斯顿超级马雷
For the next leg of my journey, I'm travelling from Weston Super-Mare
向南前往托基，再沿达特河口上行至托特尼斯。
south to Torquay before heading up the Dart estuary to Totnes.
今天，我的第一班火车将带我沿着美丽的南德文海岸前行。
Today, my first train takes me along the beautiful south Devon coast.
这是大西部铁路最难修建的路段之一，
It was one of the hardest sections of the Great Western Railway
但为火车乘客提供了最壮观的景色。
to build, but has resulted in the most spectacular views
for the train traveller.
布拉德肖指南对这段景色赞不绝口。
Bradshaw's guide is ecstatic about this view.
“这段铁路因沿途展现的壮丽景色
"This part of the line is invested with additional interest from
而格外引人入胜。
"the magnificent scenery which opens up on each side as we proceed.
“沿途每一英里都展现出独特的
"There is scarcely a mile traversed which does not unfold some peculiar
“如画魅力或新特色，
"picturesque charm or new feature of its own
“令人眼花缭乱，陶醉于美景之中。”
"to make the eye dazzled and drunk with beauty."
当太阳从左侧升起时，
And as the sun rises to my left,
我完全明白指南的意思。
I know exactly what the guidebook means.
铁路设计师伊桑巴德·金德姆·布鲁内尔
The railway's designer, Isambard Kingdom Brunel,
曾希望将线路建在内陆更远处，
wanted to construct the line further inland,
但被迫沿着海滩线修建。
but was forced to follow the line of the beach.
这意味着需要在悬崖上开凿五条隧♥道♥，
It meant boring five tunnels through the cliffs
并修建四英里的海堤来保护铁轨。
and building four miles of sea wall to protect the tracks.
这是一项非凡的工程成就，
It's an extraordinary engineering achievement,
但并不总能阻挡海水。
but it doesn't always keep the water at bay.
铁路线沿海而建意味着
The fact that the railway line was built along the sea means that
我们有如此美妙的景色，但也意味着
we have those wonderful views, but it also means
铁路线会遭受风暴和海浪的冲击，
that the railway line gets pelted by storms and by spray
如果水位继续上升，情况只会更糟。
and if water levels go on rising it can only get worse.
当铁路于1848年延伸至托基时，大西部铁路
When the line reached Torquay in 1848, the Great Western Railway
开始将其推广为度假胜地。
began promoting it as a holiday destination.
它立即受到维多利亚时代游客的欢迎，
It was an immediate hit with the Victorian tourists
托基逐渐发展成为一个繁华的度假地。
and Torquay grew into a bustling resort.
其主要吸引力之一是温和的气候。
One of its main attractions was the mild climate.
我的布拉德肖指南甚至将其与法国南部相比，称：
My Bradshaw's Guide even compared it to the south of France, saying,
“托基被形象地描述为英格兰的蒙彼利埃。”
"Torquay has been described somewhat characteristically as the Montpellier of England."
但今天我们仍这样认为吗？
But do we regard it that way today?
你好。嗨。抱歉打扰你们。
Hello. Hi. I'm sorry to trouble you.
早上好。你好。早上好。
Good morning. Hello. Good morning.
我看到你们有个海滩小屋。是的。
I see you have a beach hut. We do.
是的。你们一年中有几个月在海边？
We do. How many months of the year are you on the beach?
从四月开始，一直到现在的九月。
It starts in April and it goes on till now, September.
四月到九月对英国来说是个不错的季节，对吧？
April to September is a pretty good season for England, isn't it?
是的。你们觉得托基的天气特别好吗？
Yes, it is. Do you think Torquay has exceptionally good weather?
我觉得是的。是的，我想是的。
I think it does. Yes, I suppose so.
今年夏天又挺多雨的……
We've had quite a wet summer again...
不幸的是……像大多数地方一样，但我觉得我们还算不错。
Unfortunately. ..like most people, but I think we do as well as anybody.
比东南部的朋友们温和多了，对吧？
It's a lot milder than our friends in the south-east, isn't it?
我很有兴趣从气象学家大卫·布雷恩那里了解，
I'm interested to discover from meteorologist, David Braine,
托基是否真的如此特别。
whether Torquay really is special.
早上好，大卫。早上好，迈克尔。
Morning, David. Morning, Michael.
我们在一个阳光明媚的日子见面。
We meet on a lovely, sunny day.
很美，不是吗？为什么托基气候这么好？
Beautiful, isn't it? Why does Torquay have such a wonderful climate?
主要是因为它的地理位置吗？
It's largely due to the geography, where it is?
它朝东，这意味着一年中大部分时间都受到良好庇护，
It faces east, which means most of the year, it's well sheltered
这里的气候几乎是西南部最好的，
and the climate here is, pretty much, one of the best
正因如此。
in the south-west because of it.
由于温暖的天气，大西部铁路
Because of the warm weather, the Great Western Railway
开始将这片海岸作为“英国里维埃拉”推广给游客。
began to promote this coast to tourists as The English Riviera.
在某个特别的银行假日，
On one particular Bank holiday, 20,000 people
托基车站一天内通过了2万人。
passed through Torquay station in a single day.
多亏了铁路，它已成为一个主要度假地。
Thanks to the railways, it had become a major resort.
但除了当日往返的游客，布拉德肖特别推荐它
But day trippers apart, Bradshaw recommended it
适合病人疗养。
specifically for the sick.
维多利亚时代的人非常关注健康，
The Victorians were really quite obsessed about health
托基被视为病人疗养的绝佳之地。
and Torquay was regarded as a terrific place for invalids to come.
这个地方对病人特别有益吗？
Is this place especially good for people suffering from illnesses?
我会说，“是的。”考虑到
I would say, "Yes." There's a lot going for it, bearing in mind
维多利亚时代空气污染严重，这里有很多优势。
in Victorian times there was a lot of air pollution.
大城市和工业区空气污染严重，
The big towns and the industrial areas have a lot of air pollution,
空气中很多颗粒物，患有肺部疾病的人
a lot of particulate matter in the air and those that suffer from pulmonary disorders,
因空气中的烟雾和气体而备受折磨。
really did suffer because of it, because of all that smoke and gas in the atmosphere.
来到海边，首先呼吸到清新的空气，
You come to the seaside and you get clean air to start with
气候也更温和。
and you've also got a more temperate climate.
所以，如果他们患有风湿病，
So, if they were suffering from rheumatism,
来到这个地区就不会经历寒冷的冬天。
when they came to this area they wouldn't have those cold winters.
同样，老年人时，夏季的高温可能是个问题。
In the same vein, when you get elderly, the heat in the summertime can be a problem.
因此，这里因此成为一个非常受欢迎的地方。
So, it was a really popular location because of that.
我想这让维多利亚时代的人越来越
I suppose that led the Victorians to become more and more
关注气候和天气，并做了一些记录。
interested in climate and weather and to make some recordings.
例如，这里声称冬季气温
For example, it's claimed in here that the winter temperature
华氏46度，比埃克塞特高五度。
of 46 degrees Fahrenheit is five degrees higher than Exeter.
这是真的吗？
Is that true?
我只能查看第一次世界大战以来的记录，
I can only look at the records going back to the First World War
我看了，冬季气温相差一度左右。
and I've looked and the winter temperature is about a degree or so difference.
这里稍微暖和一些。
It is slightly warmer here.
一度摄氏度？是的，一度摄氏度。
A degree centigrade? Yes, a degree centigrade.
两度他的单位。没错。
Two of his degrees. That's correct.
但不是五度他的单位。
But not five of his degrees.
五度有点夸张了，我想。
Five is a bit much, I would think.
下一段旅程将带我穿过里维埃拉的其他度假地，
The next part of my journey takes me through other Riviera resorts
乘坐佩恩顿和达特茅斯蒸汽火车。
on the Paignton and Dartmouth steam railway.
任何喜欢铁路的人
Anybody who likes railways
都认为真正的火车是蒸汽火车。
thinks that the real thing is a steam train.
我坐过几次蒸汽火车，听说
I've been on a few steam trains and I'm told
这条线路非常特别。
that this line is exceptional.
听说无论我之前对蒸汽旅行的看法如何，
I've been told that whatever I thought before about steam travel,
今天我将发现新事物。
I'm going to discover something new today.
我现在要去前面见那些做着我小时候
I'm now going up the front to meet the guys who do what I think
许多男孩梦想做的事情的人。
many boys dreamed of doing, certainly when I was young.
那就是铲煤
That is to say shovelling the coal
和驾驶火车头。
and driving the engine.
出发前能聊两句吗？