英国铁路纪行（2010）

英格兰制♥造♥。英格兰制♥造♥。
Made in England. Made in England.
这让你自豪吗？当然。这正是我们乐见的。
Does that make you proud? Oh, yes. That's what we like to see.
谢谢。再见。再见。
Thank you. Bye. Bye.
这样的企业实属罕见。
It's incredibly rare to find a business like this.
不仅由同一家族经营超过200年，
Not only has the same family run the company for over 200 years,
员工也世代相传。
but the employees stay generation after generation.
一个家族依靠单一产业代代维生的生活方式已近乎绝迹。
A family supported by one industry, decade after decade, is a way of life which has all but died out.
先生们好。
Hi, gentlemen.
现在我将离开克伦福德，沿铁路线继续前行15英里前往德比。
I'm now leaving Cromford, and travelling another 15 miles down the railway line to Derby.
下午好。请出示车票。
Good afternoon. Tickets, please.
非常感谢。
Thank you very much.
几点到德比？
What time into Derby?
14:22。
14:22.
非常感谢。谢谢。再见。
Thank you very much indeed. Thank you. Bye-bye.
我对德比不太熟悉，但将其与重工业联♥系♥起来，
I don't know Derby very well, but I associate it with heavy industry,
航♥空♥发动机和铁路车辆制♥造♥。
with aero engines and the manufacturer of rolling railway stock.
但我很期待，因为布拉德肖对我将入住的酒店赞不绝口。
But I am looking forward to it, because Bradshaw raves about the hotel where I'm going to stay.
他通常只用一行字描述酒店，但这里写道：
He normally only gives a hotel one line but here he says,
"能推荐这样的场所令人欣慰，
"It is gratifying to be able to refer to an establishment like this,
"它当之无愧享有最高声誉。
"which deservedly enjoys the highest reputation.
"具备家的所有舒适，且不遗余力
"It possesses all the comforts of a home and there is no lack of the spirit necessary
"提供一切能赢得顾客青睐的服务。"
"to provide, to the fullest extent, everything which can recommend it to its patrons."
你难免好奇这里发生过什么，因为下文还说：
Then you have to kind of wonder what was going on here, because it goes on to say,
"由查特菲尔德夫人卓越经营。
"It is conducted in the most able manner by Mrs Chatfield.
"堪称英格兰顶级酒店之一。"
"And it may claim to rank amongst the first hotels of England."
恐怕查特菲尔德夫人已不在人世，但我依然充满期待。
Well I am afraid, Mrs Chatfield won't be there any more but I'm looking forward to it nonetheless.
前往德比的乘客请注意，列车将于14:24发车。
..Derby, please note our departure time is scheduled for 14:24.
再见。谢谢。
Bye. Thanks.
查特菲尔德夫人的酒店就在那里，
There's Mrs Chatfield's hotel right there, which is
这并不奇怪，因为它本就是铁路酒店。
not surprising, really, because it is a railway hotel.
实际上是英国第二家铁路酒店。
It is actually the second one ever built in Britain.
为方便旅客，酒店下方建有隧♥道♥，
It was so convenient for the passengers that they built a tunnel underneath
行李可直接从车站运抵酒店。
so that the baggage could be taken directly to the hotel from the station.
与我同住过的还有维多利亚女王这样的贵宾。
And I am in very distinguished company because Queen Victoria once stayed here.
米德兰酒店1841年开业，是伦敦以外首批铁路酒店之一，
Opened in 1841, the Midland Hotel was one of the first railway hotels outside London
仅限头等舱乘客使用。
and was reserved exclusively for first-class passengers.
所幸如今入住既不需要昂贵车票，也无需贵族血统。
Thankfully today, you don't need an expensive ticket or blue blood to stay here.
你好。
Hello.
你好。办理入住，迈克尔·波蒂略。
Hello. I'm checking in, please. Michael Portillo.
好的。请在此签名。非常感谢。
Yes. Would you just like to sign there for me? Thank you very much.
我要先去参观景点，
I am going to go off and see some of the sights
暂时不上楼入住，但你们知道我已到达。
so I'm not just going up to the room at the moment but you know that I'm here anyway.
只有铁路公♥司♥有实力建造豪华酒店。
Only the railway companies could afford to build luxury hotels.
除了服务疲惫旅客外，
As well as catering for exhausted travellers,
还创造了大量额外收入，因此铁路终点站很快涌现出众多铁路酒店。
they generated a lot of extra income, so railway hotels were soon springing up at the ends of lines.
铁路为德比这样的小镇带来财富与投资，
The railways brought wealth and investment to small rural towns like Derby,
将其转变为工业中心。
transforming them into industrial centres.
布拉德肖提到德比的铁路车♥库♥，也记载了更古老的产业——
In Derby, Bradshaw mentions the railway sheds but he also mentions an older industry,
1718年建成的英格兰首家丝绸厂。
the silk mill, the first in England, built here in 1718.
外观酷似意大利钟楼。
And it has the look of an Italian bell-tower.
这或许事出有因。
And there could be a reason for that.
英国人原本不擅丝绸制♥造♥，直到约翰·隆贝从意大利北部窃取秘方。
The English weren't very good at making silk until John Lombe stole the secret from northern Italy.
1722年一名意大利工人为复仇杀害了他。
And then an Italian worker, in revenge, murdered him in 1722.
隆贝新获得的纺纱技术很快在该地区普及。
Lombe's newly-acquired spinning technology was soon copied throughout the region.
到1860年代，德比丝绸业蓬勃发展。
By the 1860s, the Derby silk industry was booming.
布拉德肖指南记载："现有约25家丝绸厂。"
Bradshaw's guide says "There are about 25 silk mills at present."
相当于每千余名居民就拥有一家工厂。
That was one mill for just over every 1,000 residents.
由此创造的财富催生了非凡的公益善举，
The wealth they generated led to some extraordinary acts of civic generosity,
包括为德比市建造的新公园。
including a new park for the city of Derby.
布拉德肖记载德比车站附近
And Bradshaw notes that in Derby, not far from the station,
"有座16英亩的新植物园，1840年由劳登设计，
"is the new arboretum of 16 acres laid out in 1840 by Loudon
"约瑟夫·斯特拉特爵士赠予该镇，这份高贵礼物估值1万英镑，
"and given to the town by Joseph Strutt Esquire, a noble gift, estimated at £10,000,
"配有两座伊丽莎白风格门房♥，每周三周六免费开放。"
"with a couple of Elizabethan lodges and entry gratis on Wednesdays and Saturdays."
确实是高尚的馈赠。
A noble gift, indeed.
斯特拉特家族通过纺织业致富后，希望回馈社会。
Having made their fortune in textiles, the Strutt family wanted to give something back.
最初每周免费开放两天，
At first, entry was free two days a week
1882年起全面免费。
but, from 1882, there were no charges on any day.
工人阶级首次能享受原本专属贵族的
For the first time, the working classes could enjoy landscaped open spaces
景观园林空间。
previously the realm of the nobility.
这座公园很美。
It is a lovely park.
地形设计精妙。他塑造了地貌。
It's got beautiful topography. He's shaped the land.
种植了优质树木。
He's put in terrific trees.
装饰着瓮器、喷泉和假山。
He's decorated with urns, fountains, follies.
非常维多利亚风格，非常美丽。
Very Victorian and very, very lovely.
这是黑胡桃树吗？是的。
Is that a black walnut? It is a black walnut.
你一定是乔纳森。你一定是迈克尔。你好。很高兴见到你。
You must be Jonathan. You must be Michael. Hello. Very good to see you.
树木专家乔纳森·奥克斯在植物园持续修复中发挥关键作用。
Jonathan Oakes, a tree specialist, plays a key role in the continued restoration of the arboretum.
这座公园历史悠久。
This park is pretty historic.
它在历史上有多重要？
How important is it in history?
我们认为这是英国首个公共公园，1840年由劳登设计并赠予德比市民。
Well, we think it is Britain's first public park, laid out in 1840 and given to the people of Derby in 1840.
劳登设计的。他是谁？
Laid out by Loudon. Who was he?
劳登是位多产作家、园艺师和景观设计师。
Loudon was a prolific author and a gardener, a landscape architect.
他著有《植物园志》，记载了当时世界上
He wrote a book, Arboretum Botanicum, which explained all the trees and shrubs
所有已知树种和灌木。
that were available in the world at that time.
为什么采用这种景观设计？很特别。
By way, why is it landscaped in the way that it is? That's unusual.
土丘设计能营造私密感，
The mounds are there to give a sense of privacy,
让丘后的人察觉不到你的存在。
so people on the other side of the mound don't necessarily know you're there.
使空间显得更开阔。
It makes the place look bigger and feel bigger.
确实别具一格，对吧？
It really is strikingly unusual, isn't it?
如今我们已习惯景观花♥园♥，但劳登的设计在当时具有革命性。
Today we're used to landscaped gardens but Loudon's design was revolutionary at the time.
蜿蜒小径、装饰花坛和独♥立♥树木的布局，
The winding paths, ornamental flower beds and isolated trees
旨在教育民众认识植物标本。
were designed to educate people about plant specimens.
他甚至还做了标签，这个创意后来被邱园效仿。
He even labelled them, an idea later copied by Kew.
这里是作为休闲场所还是教育基地？
Was this meant to be a place of leisure or a place of education?
这正是有趣之处。
Well, this is the interesting thing.
捐赠者斯特拉特希望打造放松娱乐的场所。
The benefactor, Strutt, wanted a place where people could relax and enjoy themselves.
但科学家劳登想要一个具有
But Loudon, the scientist, wanted a garden, a collection,
科学教育意义的植物园，
somewhere that was scientific and educational,
因此两者必然达成了某种妥协。
so, inevitably, there was some kind of a compromise between the two.
非常感谢，再见。
Thank you so much and bye-bye.
在那个宗教与责任感具有强大影响力的时代，
In an age when religion and a sense of duty were powerful influences,
许多像斯特拉特家族这样的企业家将部分巨额财富用于公益。
many entrepreneurs like the Strutts spent part of their massive new fortunes for the public good.
19世纪下半叶，
During the second half of the 19th century,
信托、慈善机构、基金会和志愿者项目如雨后春笋般涌现。
trusts, charities, foundations and volunteering programmes all sprang up.
那是慈善事业的黄金时代。
It was a golden age of philanthropy.
与维多利亚女王共处一个屋檐下后，
Having shared a roof with Queen Victoria,
我现在要离开德比前往伯顿，
I'm leaving Derby now and going to Burton,
啤酒之乡。
the home of brewing.
布拉德肖说："约翰·巴利科恩爵士的伟大基业位于特伦特河斯塔福德郡一侧。
And Bradshaw says, "The great seat of Sir John Barleycorn is on the Staffordshire side of the Trent.
"巴斯、阿尔索普和沃辛顿是这里的啤酒巨头，
"Bass, Allsopp and Worthington are the chief ale kings here
"随处可见成片的酒桶。
"and acres covered with barrels and casks may be seen.
"大量淡啤酒出口至热带地区，
"Vast quantities of pale ale are exported to tropical climates
"也被国内口渴的人们当作滋补饮品。"
"and drunk by thirsty souls at home as a tonic."
真令人期待。
So there is something to look forward to.
1b站台。
Platform 1b.
准时发车。
On time.
今天最后一段旅程将从德比向南行进11英里抵达伯顿。
The last leg of my journey today takes me, from Derby, another 11 miles south to Burton.
德比站出发的乘客请出示车票。
Tickets and passes from Derby station to your destination.
我就在城里，快下来吧。
I'm in town, come right on down.
你今天状态不错！
You're in good form today!
天天如此，先生！谢谢先生。非常感谢。
Tous les jours, monsieur, tous les jours! Merci, monsieur. Merci bien.
铁路线对工业发展至关重要，
The railway lines were critical to the growth of industry
但水也是工业革命诞生的关键因素。
but water was also instrumental in the birth of the Industrial Revolution.
既用于驱动工厂，也助力伯顿成为工业重镇。
Used to power mills and factories, it also helped put Burton on the industrial map.
伯顿的全称当然是特伦特河畔伯顿。
The full name for Burton, of course, is Burton-on-Trent.
特伦特河的水质对布拉德肖也很重要。
And the water of the Trent was very important also to Bradshaw.
他指出酿酒商一反常态使用硬水而非软水。
And he notes that the brewers, contrary to common usage, used hard water, not soft water.
我对此很感兴趣。
So I shall be intrigued to find out about that.
"特伦特河畔伯顿——国家森林门户"
"Burton on Trent. A Gateway to The National Forest."
一走出伯顿车站就能感受到
As soon as you come out of Burton station you can tell that this town