英国铁路纪行（2010）

这确实是巴克斯顿建筑皇冠上最璀璨的明珠。
It is truly, I think, the gem in the middle of the Buxton architectural crown.
这份自豪当之无愧。谢谢。
Well placed pride. Thank you.
布拉德肖的指南不仅推荐建筑地标——
Bradshaw didn't just recommend local architectural landmarks in his guides -
还收录了大自然最迷人的景观。
he also suggests visiting some of nature's most attractive sites.
这趟车去新米尔斯新城吗？是的。非常感谢。
Does this go to New Mills New Town? Yes. Thank you very much.
现在我将离开巴克斯顿，前往峰区国家公园腹地的霍姆莫斯。
I'm now leaving Buxton to travel on into the heart of the Peak District National Park, to Holme Moss.
布拉德肖对峰区的描述极富诗意。
Bradshaw is at his most lyrical about the Peak District.
他说："德比郡独特的风光展现在我们眼前，
He says, "We have the peculiar scenery of Derbyshire before us.
游客很少能在火车车窗里看到如此壮丽的景色。"
"The tourists will seldom see such glorious landscape from the window of a railway carriage."
"时而可见巍峨群山
"Whilst at one moment the bold hills
"环抱四周，转瞬间蜿蜒河谷
"rise up before us, behind us and on either side, at the next a winding valley
"又展现绵延数英里的迷人画卷。"
"shows us a charming picture stretching away for miles."
1951年这里成为英国首个国家公园。
In 1951, this area became Britain's first National Park.
我要去的黑峰得名于泥炭地貌。
I'm going to the Dark Peak, named after the peat landscape.
我从未在乡村生活过，也从未向往过。
I've never lived in the country and have never wanted to.
我热爱城市，尤其是我居住的伦敦。
I love cities, and love London, where I live.
但当你看到今日这般
But you see the Peak District
晴空万里、阳光普照的峰区，
on a day like today,
开阔而壮美的景象，
sunny and bright and open, and beautiful,
实在令人叹服。
it's fantastic.
为深入荒野，我现在需离开铁路改乘出租车。
To get out on the moors, I now need to leave the railways and take a taxi.
您是接迈克尔·波蒂略的吗？谢谢。
Are you for Michael Portillo? ..Thank you.
这是最美的公路之一吗？没错，右侧可见
Is this one of the prettiest roads? It is, because you've got the reservoirs down here on
串联至谢菲尔德的水库群，直到莱迪鲍尔。
your right-hand side, all the way up to Ladybower, going up to Sheffield.
风光绝美。
You have some absolute beautiful views.
这里如今是全球访问量第二大的国家公园，
This area is now the second most visited national park in the world,
仅次于日本富士山。
after Mount Fuji in Japan.
每年超2000万游客来此欣赏美景。
Over 20 million visitors come here each year to enjoy the scenery.
这与布拉德肖时代形成鲜明对比，当时峰区周边
It's quite a contrast to Bradshaw's day, when the peaks were surrounded
遍布英国最繁忙的工业城镇。
by some of Britain's busiest industrial towns.
景色依旧如布拉德肖描述的令人震撼。
The views are still stunning, just as Bradshaw describes.
'但如今荒野正面临威胁。'
'But the moors are currently under threat.'
你好。
Hello.
是克里斯吗？幸会。是的，很高兴见面。
Are you Chris? Please to meet you, I am, yes. Good to see you.
护林员克里斯·迪恩正带领志愿者团队拯救珍贵的泥炭沼泽。
Park ranger Chris Dean is heading up a group of volunteers trying to save the precious peat bog.
问题在于我们所在的霍姆莫斯是
The problem here is that we're on one of the iconic hills
峰区标志性山丘之一，
of the Peak District, Holme Moss,
正遭受着
and it is one of the places that is suffering
泥炭侵蚀的威胁。
from erosion to the peat.
这些黑色物质隆起就是泥炭？
Where I'm seeing these ridges of dark matter - that's the peat?
是的。中间凹陷处是泥炭消失的区域？大部分已流失。
It is. And the stuff in between is where the peat's disappeared? The peat has largely disappeared.
若以泥炭丘顶部为基准线，下方缺失的
If we drew a line across the top of these peat hags, all the material
都是已流失的部分。
underneath is what we've lost.
根源在于纺织业排放的污染物
The reason for that is that the soil was quite badly acidified
导致土壤严重酸化。
by the atmospheric pollution from the textile industry.
可追溯至19世纪？确实如此。
Going all the way back to the 19th century? Yeah, absolutely.
您提到的遗产铁路线当年都靠燃煤列车运行。
You are talking about heritage railway journeys, which were all powered by coal-fired trains.
那时整个工业体系都依赖煤炭驱动。
At that time, there was a massive industry, all powered by coal.
工业革命实质上摧毁了沼泽地表，
The Industrial Revolution basically destroyed the bog surface,
因为许多植被相当脆弱。
because a lot of those plants are quite delicate.
虽然有些植物能在酸性环境生长，
While there are plants that grow in an acidic environment,
但像这样酸性过强就会彻底灭绝。
if it gets too acidic, as here, it just wipes them out completely.
所以酸雨导致泥炭上无法再生草本植物？
So, that is effectively acid rain, and then that stops these grasses growing back on the peat again?
土壤酸度接近柠檬汁水平，
It is basically down to the pH, the acidity of lemon juice,
属于极强酸性，我们必须改良土壤
so it is extremely acidic, so we have to do something about that,
才能恢复植被覆盖。
so we can get vegetation back on these areas.
土壤受损严重导致植被无法自然再生。
The soil is so badly damaged that the vegetation can't grow back.
裸♥露♥的泥炭经风雨侵蚀逐渐流失。
The peat lies exposed to the elements and is gradually eroded away.
待土壤经过降酸处理后，
Once the soil has been treated to reduce acidity,
克里斯团队计划种植50万株棉草等穴盘苗。
Chris and the volunteers are aiming to plant 500,000 plug plants, such as cotton grass.
修复工程将覆盖35平方公里区域。
The work will continue until 35 square kilometres are covered.
既能防止泥炭流失，又能促进新泥炭形成。
It should protect the peat from erosion and encourage more of it to be produced.
真是热火朝天。确实如此。
A hive of activity. It is, it is.
今天来了不少志愿者。
You've got quite a lot of volunteers out here today.
我们注重培养年轻人，因为长远来看
We like to involve young people, because they are
他们才是最终受益者。
the ones who are eventually going to benefit from this, in the long term.
克里斯计划2015年前完成首期工程，
Chris aims is to complete the first phase of work by 2015,
动员包括志愿者在内的数百人参与。
using hundreds of people, including volunteers.
这是什么工具？这是穴植器，
What are you using? These are dibbers
需要插入土中挖出植穴。
and we have got to push them in the ground and make a hole.
我能试试吗？给，这把沾了泥。
Shall I have a go? Yeah. You've given me a nice dirty one.
应该没问题。有什么诀窍？
Should be all right. Any tips?
有时土质很硬需要用力下压。
Sometimes it's quite hard so you've got to push quite hard.
确实够硬。
Oh, you're not kidding.
拔出时也要左右摇晃
And it's hard to get it out, so you might want to wiggle it a bit
才能顺利取出。
before you take it out.
用力摇晃...
A good wiggle...
啊。糟糕。
Ah. Oh.
不该挖这么大洞吧？
I'm not meant to make a big hole like that, am I?
苗该放这里吗？
Right, should it go in there?
理解为何工程耗时了，但这很重要。
I can see why the work could take a while, but it's important.
泥炭侵蚀会释放二氧化碳加剧全球变暖。
As the peat erodes, it releases CO2 into the atmosphere, contributing to global warming.
每株植物扎根都将帮助封存土壤中的二氧化碳。
As each plant takes root, it will help to lock the CO2 in the soil again.
干得好，非常感谢。您的...
Well done, thank you very much indeed. Oh, here's your...
工具叫什么？穴植器。
what was it called? Dibber. Dibber.
沾泥的穴植器！没错。
A dirty dibber! Yeah.
每代人都承载着祖先的遗产。
Every generation lives with the legacy of its ancestors.
我们正在处理工业革命遗留的
We are dealing with pollution caused by the Industrial Revolution
污染问题，承担着前人无法预见的后果。
in previous centuries, living with consequences that were unforeseeable.
所幸破坏正得到修复。
But at least the damage is now being repaired.
峰区依然如布拉德肖时代般令人魂牵梦萦。
And the Peak District is still hauntingly beautiful, much as it was in Bradshaw's day.
还有另一个影响我旅程的重大变化。
There is another big change that's affecting my journey.
19世纪时，铁路线如蛇般蜿蜒穿越荒野运输客货。
In the 19th century, train lines snaked across the moors carrying people and freight.
布拉德肖当年可从巴克斯顿乘火车到马特洛克，如今该线已停运。
Bradshaw could have caught the train from Buxton to Matlock, but the line is now closed.
现已成为每年数万人使用的骑行步道。
It's become a cycle and walking trail used by thousands of people every year.
布拉德肖描述这条沿怀伊河穿越米勒斯谷的路线
Bradshaw described the route, passing through Millers Dale along
是"德比郡最雄奇的河谷之一，
the River Wye, as, "One of the most stupendous valleys in Derbyshire,
"遍布最非凡的岩峰与狂野奇景。"
"which contains a succession of some of the most remarkable tors and wild picturesque views imaginable."
"堪称绝佳的旅途，
"It is, in fact, a magnificent ride,
"四季皆壮丽非凡。"
"sublimely grand at all seasons."
虽然荒野风光绝美，
Though that moor was very beautiful,
但寒风凛冽，
it was cold and it was windy,
我又饿又累。幸好布拉德肖总会推荐酒店，
and I am hungry and I'm tired. Luckily, Bradshaw always recommends hotels,
他1802年推荐的这家至今仍在营业。
and there's one here today that he recommends, founded in 1802.
看起来相当气派，正是享用牛排和安睡的好地方。
It looks pretty grand, exactly the place for a steak and a comfortable bed.
你好。
Hello.
晚上好，先生。
Hello, good evening, sir.
迈克尔·波蒂略，办理入住。
Michael Portillo, checking in.
欢迎光临新浴场酒店。
Welcome to the New Bath Hotel.
非常感谢。
Thank you very much indeed.
酒店最初接待来马特洛克巴斯泡温泉的富裕游客。
The hotel was originally for well-to-do visitors coming to Matlock Bath to enjoy the spa waters.
地下室还保留着维多利亚时期的温泉浴池。
There is even an old Victorian spa bath in the basement.
希望其他管道系统已经更新。
Let's hope the rest of the plumbing's been updated.
真漂亮。确实。房♥间很不错。
Beautiful. It is. Ah, and the room is good.
精美的四柱床。非常感谢。
Lovely four poster bed. Thank you very much indeed.
我先换下靴子再用晚餐。谢谢。
I'm going to kick off my boots and then come down to dinner. Thank you.
峡谷美景尽收眼底。
And there, indeed, is the gorge.
与巴克斯顿相似，马特洛克巴斯最初以温泉吸引游客。
Matlock Bath, like Buxton, originally attracted visitors to its thermal springs.
1840年铁路开通后，这里开始效仿
But when the railways arrived in 1840, it began to model itself
布莱克浦和绍斯波特等大型海滨度假胜地。
on the bigger seaside resorts like Blackpool and Southport.
开设游乐场、炸鱼薯条店，甚至发展出
It opened funfairs and fish and chip shops, and even developed
年度灯光秀传统。
its own annual illuminations.
如今仍是日间游客的热门目的地，
Matlock Bath is still a popular destination for day-trippers
每年吸引数十万游客，或许布拉德肖能解释原因。
with hundreds of thousands arriving every year, and perhaps Bradshaw can explain why.
布拉德肖对马特洛克巴斯的描述充满诗意。
Bradshaw is poetic about Matlock Bath.
"无疑是德比郡最甜美的温泉胜地，坐落于马特洛克谷底。"
"Unquestionably the sweetest and most charming of the Derbyshire spas, it's at the bottom of Matlock Dale."
"狭窄的峡谷中，石灰岩峭壁如怀特岛昂德克利夫般层叠，
"A narrow defile, the rocky limestone sides of which are piled up in the manner of the Undercliff
"但覆盖着茂密的松树、冷杉、紫杉和黄杨等耐寒树木。"
in the Isle of Wight, but covered with a profusion of pine, fir, yew, box and other hardy trees."
"马特洛克巴斯的景致精致绝伦，
"The scenes through Matlock Bath are exquisitely beautiful
"堪称浓缩版的瑞士风光。"
"and may be compared to Switzerland in a nutshell."