英国铁路纪行（2010）

Great British Railway Journeys S01E20

Part 1 Aug. 24, 2025, 4:25 p.m.

1840年，一个人改变了英国的旅行方式。
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain.
他名叫乔治·布拉德肖，
His name was George Bradshaw,
他的铁路指南激发了维多利亚时代人们乘火车旅行的热情。
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks.
他一步步告诉他们该去哪里旅行，
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel,
看什么，住在哪里。
what to see, and where to stay.
170年后的今天，我将进行四次长途旅行，
Now, 170 years later, I'm making four long journeys
穿越这个国家的各个角落，
across the length and breadth of the country
看看布拉德肖的英国还剩下什么。
to see what remains of Bradshaw's Britain.
我现在正从巴克斯顿到伦敦的铁路旅程的最后一段。
I'm now on the last stage of my rail journey from Buxton to London.
我发现我的维多利亚时代布拉德肖指南为我提供了有用的指引，
I've found my Victorian Bradshaw's guide has given me useful pointers
让我了解那些我几乎不熟悉的地方的人和事。
to people and places of interest in locations that I hardly knew.
现在我很好奇它是否也能为我照亮
Now I'm intrigued to see whether it can also light up for me
这个我生活了一辈子的首都。
the capital where I've lived all my life.
在今天的旅程中，
On my journey today,
我将参观全国最宏伟的铁路酒店之一。
I'll be visiting one of the country's grandest railway hotels.
小时候，我以为女巫住在这里。
When I was a child, I believed that the witches lived in here.
这里又黑又脏，对小孩来说真的很吓人。
It was so dark and dingy, and very scary, actually, as a child.
我将前往伦敦市中心最古老的市场之一。
I'll head to one of the oldest markets in central London.
他们对你好吗？
Do they behave nicely with you?
他们守规矩吗？
Watch their P's and Q's?
有时候，不总是。
Sometimes, not always, no.
如果你是单身，你会玩得很开心。
If you were single, you would have a good time.
（铃♥声♥）
BELL RINGS
我还将发现自布拉德肖时代以来，首都发生了哪些变化。
And I'll be discovering how the capital has rung in the changes since Bradshaw's day.
（钟声）
BELL CHIMES
这一周我一直在从巴克斯顿出发，
All this week I've been travelling from Buxton
沿着英格兰最早的铁路线之一旅行，
along one of the earliest railway routes in England,
这条铁路最初是为了从北到南运输货物而建的。
first built to transport freight from north to south.
我在布拉德肖指南推荐的城镇停留，
I've stopped off at towns and cities recommended by Bradshaw's guide,
现在我即将到达伦敦。
and now I'm reaching London.
今天我将抵达圣潘克拉斯，
Today I'll be arriving at St Pancras,
乘坐全国第一条地铁线到史密斯菲尔德，
taking the country's first underground line to Smithfield,
最终到达我最熟悉的伦敦地区——威斯敏斯特。
ending up in the part of London I know best - Westminster.
布拉德肖的指南这样描述伦敦：
Bradshaw's guide says of London,
“英国大都会汇聚了人类生活中最庞大的人群，
"The British metropolis contains the largest mass of human life,
“艺术、科学、财富、权力和建筑辉煌，
"arts, science, wealth, power and architectural splendour
“这些在人类已知的历史中前所未有。”
"that exists or ever has existed in the known annals of mankind."
简而言之，这就是维多利亚时代的自信——
There in a nutshell you have Victorian self-confidence -
维多利亚时代的浮夸。
Victorian bombast.
在布拉德肖的时代，圣潘克拉斯
St Pancras, in Bradshaw's time,
是通往世界上最强大城市的门户。
was the gateway to the most powerful city in the world.
英国统治着一个庞大且不断扩张的帝国，
Britain ruled over a massive and growing empire,
而伦敦是其核心。
and London was at its heart.
圣潘克拉斯是一座经典的维多利亚车站，
St Pancras is a classic Victorian station
但我到达的地方是最近才建成的。
but where I'm arriving has only recently been built.
这是巨大的新泰晤士联线车站，
This is the vast new Thames link station,
深藏在圣潘克拉斯国际车站下方。
deep beneath St Pancras International.
霓虹灯和电子标志，
And with its neon lights and its electronic signs,
丝毫没有暗示我们上方维多利亚时代的辉煌。
it offers no hint of the Victorian splendour above us.
一版布拉德肖指南这样描述：
One edition of Bradshaw's guide describes that as,
“米德兰公♥司♥庞大而宏伟的终点站，
"the vast and magnificent terminus of the Midland Company,
“超越了其他所有车站，屋顶宽240英尺，高150英尺，
"eclipsing every other, having a roof 240 feet across and 150 feet high,
并配有一座华丽的酒店。”
and faced by a splendid hotel."
今天爬上车站，它依然如此令人振奋。
And climbing up into the station today, it's every bit as inspiring.
作为一个伦敦人，我对圣潘克拉斯的修复感到非常兴奋，
As a Londoner, I felt really excited at the restoration of St Pancras,
这座车站曾一度面临拆除的威胁，
a station that once was threatened with demolition,
如今已恢复了昔日的辉煌。
which has now been restored in all its glory.
我想象着布拉德肖指南出版时人们的兴奋，
I think of the excitement they felt at the time of Bradshaw's guide,
一座又一座蒸汽时代的巨大教堂
as one after another of these massive cathedrals to steam
在城市周围拔地而起，
was built around the ring of the city,
彻底改变了城市景观，也改变了人们的生活。
revolutionising the cityscape, and transforming people's lives.
伦敦的终点站通常设计用来容纳铁路运输的货物。
A London terminus was often designed to accommodate what its railway transported.
通往圣潘克拉斯的线路运输啤酒，
The line to St Pancras carried beer,
所以车站建在800根柱子上，
so the station was built on 800 columns,
精心排列以便酒桶可以储存在下方。
carefully spaced so that barrels could be stored underneath.
古老的圣潘克拉斯新增了一个极简的现代玻璃延伸部分，
To the old St Pancras has been added a starkly modern glass extension,
为整列欧洲之星火车提供覆盖。
to provide cover all along the quarter-mile length of a Eurostar train.
大家都在谈论维多利亚部分，但你觉得新部分怎么样？
Everybody talks about the Victorian bit, but what do you think about the new bit down there?
很简单，挺好的，很简单。
It's simple, nice and simple.
只有四个站台。
It's only four platforms.
就是完成任务？
It just does the job?
你觉得他们做得怎么样？
And what do you think of the way they've done it?
是个不错的工作场所。
It's a nice place to work.
明亮、干净，希望如此。
It's nice and bright, nice and clean, hopefully.
看起来确实非常干净。
It looks very, very clean indeed.
1868年，这里是世界上最大的封闭空间。
In 1868, this was the largest enclosed space in the world.
圣潘克拉斯的设计旨在超越邻近的车站。
St Pancras was designed to outshine the neighbouring stations.
现代重建同样雄心勃勃，
The modern redevelopment is no less ambitious,
耗资8亿英镑。
at a cost of £800 million.
屋顶被忠实修复，
The roof has been faithfully restored,
铁制品恢复了原来的天蓝色。
with the ironwork in the original sky blue colour.
“而且它依然吸引着人群。”
'And it's still a crowd pleaser.'
看看我身后发生了什么——一个接一个的旅游团，
Look at what's going on behind me - tour groups, one after another,
被带着参观圣潘克拉斯车站。
being shown around St Pancras station.
参观一个车站！
Being shown around a station!
你知道游客上次认真参观英国车站是什么时候吗？
Do you know when tourists last bothered to look around a British station?
那还是在布拉德肖指南的时代。
Back in the time of Bradshaw's guide, that's when.
你不觉得火车站现在成为游客的焦点很神奇吗？
Don't you think it's marvellous that railway stations
现在成为游客的焦点？
are now a focus for tourists?
是的，我很高兴它没有被拆掉。
I do, and I am so pleased it wasn't pulled down as they wanted it to be.
太棒了。
It's wonderful.
你知道是谁救了它吗？约翰·贝杰曼。
And do you know who saved it? John Betjeman.
今天早上从导游那里学到的！
Learnt that this morning from our guide!
在1960年代，车站和酒店
In the 1960s the station and hotel
覆盖着一个世纪的蒸汽旅行留下的煤灰。
wore the soot of a century of steam travel.
它们被列入了拆除计划。
They were scheduled for demolition.
诗人约翰·贝杰曼发起了一场情感运动来拯救它们。
The poet John Betjeman mounted an emotional campaign to save them.
他成功了——就在拆除前十几天，
He was successful - just ten days before demolition day,
车站和酒店被列为保护建筑。
the station and the hotel were made listed buildings.
酒店正在进行一项1.7亿英镑的改造。
The hotel is now undergoing a £170 million transformation.
在它空置期间，
Whilst it sat empty,
它由保安罗伊登·斯托克保护，
it was protected by security guard Royden Stock,
期间他成为了一位充满感情的专家。
during which time he became an affectionate expert.
罗伊登，我记得这座建筑几乎是黑色的。
Royden, I remember this building when it was virtually black.
你认识它多久了？
How long have you known it?
我与这座建筑有联♥系♥大约13年，
I've been connected with the building for about 13 years,
但我一生都认识它。
but I've known it all my life.
小时候，我以为女巫住在这里，
When I was a child I believed that the witches lived in here,
因为它又黑又脏，对小孩来说真的很吓人。
cos it was so dark and dingy and very scary, actually, as a child.
从这里可以看到这些浪漫的细节，
The great thing from here is to be able to see these romantic details
我以前从未从地面上看到过。
that I have never been able to see from the ground before.
是的，这是乔治·吉尔伯特·斯科特爵士的标志，
Yes, this is the signature of Sir George Gilbert Scott,
设计于1865年9月底的三周内。
designed during three weeks in 1865, towards the end in September.
他用三周设计了整个建筑？
He designed the whole thing in three weeks?
三周内他完成了赢得合同的竞赛图纸，
In three weeks he did the competition drawings which won him the contract,
合同于1866年1月授予。
which was awarded in January, 1866.
每个窗户的细节也不同，
You've got different detail on each window as well,
这是大多数人忽略的。
which is something that most people miss.
柱子的柱头不同，
The capitals of the columns are different,
窗户两侧的玫瑰不同，
the roses either side of the windows are different,
拱门周围的设计也不同。
the design around the arches is different.
它不像大多数哥特复兴建筑那样对称。
It's not symmetrical, like most Gothic revival buildings are.
米德兰铁路公♥司♥希望建造
The Midland Railway wanted to build
全国最令人印象深刻的车站和铁路酒店。
the most impressive station and railway hotel in the country.
奢华的哥特风格符合要求，
The extravagant Gothic style fitted the bill,
尽管大部分被隐藏了几十年。
though much of it has been hidden away for decades.
你有哪些历史发现？
What historical discoveries have you made?
很多。这当然是其中之一。
Many. This is one of them, of course.
这个天花板被重新发现了。
This ceiling has been uncovered.
它可能被覆盖了近100年。
This was covered for probably the best part of 100 years.