主厨的餐桌（2015）

两杯柠檬水
Two lemonades.
你弟弟怎么样
And how is your brother?
-什么 -你弟弟
- What? - Your brother.
-你弟弟好些了吗 -好些了
- Is your brother feeling better or not? - He is better.
好了 亲亲
Okay, kisses.
-把电♥话♥给妈妈 -什么
- Put Mom on the phone.- What?
-我说"亲亲" 把电♥话♥给妈妈 -好
- I said, "Kisses," and please put Mom on the phone.- Sí.
-谢谢 -怎么了
- Thank you. - What happened?
没事
Nothing.
他好些了吗 你觉得是因为吃了药吗
Is he better? Do you think it was the medicine?
什么
Excuse me?
你觉得是不是药让他肚子疼
Do you think the medicine gave him the stomachache?
你在厨房♥里吗 我听不清
Are you in the kitchen? Because I can't hear you.
没 我在外面
No, I am outside.
我尽量把离家的时间控制在两周以内
I try not to spend more than two weeks away from home.
孩子们很难接受 因为他们不喜欢
With the kids it's difficult because they don't like it.
我知道他们不喜欢
I know they don't like it.
我也不想离开他们太长时间
I don't like being apart for a long time, either.
这也是我的工作 我
It's just part of my career and I...
我可以抱怨 但我没有
I could complain about it, but I... I don't.
我爱我的工作
I... I love what I do.
我知道为此要付出代价
I know there is a price that you pay for this,
人一生不可能尽善尽美
and you can't have it all in life.
那就面对吧
So just deal with it.
瓦哈卡市 墨西哥
哥们 你迟到了
My man. You're late.
路上不好走
Traffic was bad.
还以为你喝了些梅斯卡尔酒
I thought you were doing shots of mezcal.
没有
No, no.
到了2004年 普霍尔开始成为
By 2004, Pujol was getting to be known
墨西哥城最好的餐厅之一
as one of the best restaurants in Mexico City.
但有些东西还是没到位
But still, something was not right.
有些东西我并没感觉到
There was something that I didn't feel connected to.
当时我大都参照
Most of my references at that point in time
那些开创新式
were these American chefs
美国菜的美国主厨们
that started the New American cuisine.
你会发现我做的菜和那些很像
So, if you saw my dishes, they kind of looked like that,
但很明显我用的是墨西哥食材
but, obviously, I was using Mexican ingredients
因为那是我能找到的食材
because, uh, that's what I had available.
你能行吗
Can you handle it?
里卡多·穆尼奥斯·苏里达是墨西哥知名主厨
Ricardo Muñoz Zurita is a very well-known chef here in Mexico.
某天他跟我说"你是位非常优秀的厨师
One day, he told me, "You're a really good cook,
但你做的不是墨西哥菜
but you're not making Mexican food.
你对墨西哥食材的使用很保守
You're using Mexican ingredients in a very shy way
应该对自己的文化有更好的了解
and you should know your culture better,
作为墨西哥厨师 你有责任做出墨西哥菜"
and you have a responsibility as a Mexican cook to do Mexican food."
我从没忘记这话
And I never forgot that.
普霍尔里的菜并不正宗
What we were cooking at Pujol was not authentic.
一想到墨西哥菜
When I thought about Mexican food,
我最喜欢的就是塔可
I liked eating most tacos,
脆玉米饼 魔力酱和鞋板薄饼
and tostadas, and mole and huaraches.
我为什么开了间餐厅
Why did I have a restaurant
却不供应这些食物呢
that was not serving that kind of food?
当时我就意识到
And at that point, I realized that
我想要新颖
I wanted to be creative,
但同时 我也想遵从
but at the same time, I wanted to be...
自己的内心
true to myself.
在高级餐厅的环境中
In the context of fine dining,
做墨西哥菜永远不够好
cooking Mexican food was never good enough.
墨西哥菜餐厅跟高级餐厅不搭边
There was no fine dining Mexican food restaurant,
很遗憾
and it's sad.
墨西哥城没有墨西哥餐厅就是个悲剧
Not having Mexican restaurants in Mexico City is a tragedy.
现在我们有责任
And now we had a responsibility
以某种方式发起墨西哥菜运动
to generate a Mexican movement, in a way.
当你触及到事物的根源
When you go to the origin of things,
就会有感触
you get connected.
就能明白人们是如何烹饪
And you understand how people approach their cooking.
等你有了那种感触
I think when you have that kind of connection,
就总会回归本源
you always end up going back.
我开始经常去瓦哈卡
I started going frequently to Oaxaca.
对于喜欢吃的人瓦哈卡是个神奇的地方
Oaxaca is a magical place if you like eating.
那有多种多样的菜肴
It has a diversity of cuisines.
我去瓦哈卡的时候 发现了各种魔力酱
When I went to Oaxaca, I discovered different kinds of mole.
有红魔力酱 还有
These red moles and these
黄魔力酱 我之前从没想到过
yellow moles that I had never even imagined.
我意识到"我们有这些伟大的传统
I started to realize that "Hey, we have these great traditions,
各种奇妙的菜肴 神奇的食材
we have these fantastic cuisines, these great ingredients.
我们在餐厅要做的就是
And what we should be doing at the restaurant is
以独特的方式处理这些食材
using those products in a unique way,
创造不同 并以某种方式保存文化"
that can be different and can preserve, in a way, our culture."
我觉得
I think the dish that
安立奎会在烹饪史上留名的
Enrique will go down in culinary history for,
最大的功劳是他的魔力酱这道菜
above all others, is his take on mole.
我们今天知道的魔力酱有点像
Mole, as we know it today, is a little bit of a mélange
西班牙和本土墨西哥的大杂烩
of Spanish and native Mexican.
魔力酱是用巧克力
It's made with chocolate and
坚果以及其他所有食材做成
with nuts and then all kinds of other ingredients.
当我了解到安立奎为魔力酱做的准备时
When I heard about Enrique's preparation of that mole,
真是太难以置信了
it... it was just so incredible.
在酿酒中 那被称为索乐拉方式
In winemaking, that's called the solera style,
会用上一些原来的酒
where you have some of the old wine...
然后加入新酿的酒
and then you introduce the new wine to it.
我觉得这么做很神奇
I think with this, it's amazing
因为做这种酱就用到了同样的理念
because he makes this sauce using kind of that same idea.
酱得以升华 赋予了活力
That sauce evolves and it's this living thing.
我在墨西哥城的时候
When I was in, uh, Mexico City,
在那里待了有453天
I think it had been going for 453 days.
他说里面估计有一百种食材
He said there's probably a hundred ingredients in there.
那是非常复杂的酱料
It's a very, very complex sauce,
比你能想到的任何经典法国酱料都复杂
much more complex than any classical French sauce you could name.
在盘中间以正圆的形式盛上来
And he serves it on a plate in a perfect circle.
而在正圆的中间
And in the middle of the perfect circle,
就像牛眼睛 点上了另一种魔力酱
like a bull's eye, is a new mole.
非常棒 很有冲击感
It's so good, it's so intense,
很复杂又很简单
it's so complex, and yet it's so simple.
想想看 这是想象力
And you think about it, it's a triumph of...
战胜了技巧
imagination over technique.
在我看来魔力酱之母这道菜【求校】
That mole madre was, for me...
一直都是我的心头所爱
was one dish that has always stuck with me
因为
because it was, um...
真的很让人震惊
really surprising to get
能在这样的餐厅吃到这种主菜
the main course in a restaurant like this
而其实只是酱汁而已
and it's just, basically, a sauce.
如果这种酱汁处理不当
Imagine, like, that sauce is not seasoned perfectly,
或是酱汁中用的香料不对
or something is off with that sauce.
那就全都呈现在盘子中了
That's all there is on the plate.
当时你就知道这背后有个大厨
At that time, you really know that there is a chef behind it
非常有信心 很清楚自己在做什么
who is very confident, who really knows what he is doing.
我一开始做墨西哥菜 一切就都变了
Once I was cooking Mexican food, everything changed.
我不再按照《法国洗衣店餐厅食谱》烹饪
I was no longer cooking from The French Laundry Cookbook.
而是按照自己的标准烹饪
I was cooking from my own references.
安立奎找到了自己的方法
Enrique found his way of approaching
烹饪从小吃到大的食物
the food that he had grown up with,
他的方法是墨西哥餐厅里主厨不曾用过的
but in a way that no chef had in a Mexican restaurant before.
安立奎无疑将现代因素融入了墨西哥菜
Enrique is unquestionably modernizing Mexican cuisine.
但他融入现代因素的方法并非
But his way of modernizing, instead of saying,
"摒弃旧事物 展望未来"
"Get rid of the old stuff and let's look to the future,"
而是"保留旧事物
is, "Let's keep the old stuff.
保留旧事物中优秀的部分"
Let's keep what's really good in the old stuff."
这种借助过去的食物
It's a new approach to...
给食物注入未来因素的方法很新