主厨的餐桌（2015）

首先你会回想 你以前就热爱美食吗
You know, first, you go back and think, like, were you a foodie?
还是因为当了厨师才变成美食爱好者
Or you just become a foodie because you're a chef?
但接着我就想起我对食物的记忆
But then I realize my memories about food.
你们这种萎叶有甜的吗
Do you have sweet betel like this?
在印度有甜的 很好吃
In India, we have a sweet one. It's very delicious.
我们没有那种
No, we don't have that here.
好吧 要这个
印度 加尔各答
很小的时候
At a very young age,
我就知道自己不擅长读书
I realized that I couldn't understand studying.
我小时候考试经常不及格
And I would always flunk school, like, from a very young age.
以前有所学校的老师很喜欢体罚学生
There was a school where the teacher used to be very abusive,
会用藤条打学生
used to beat people with a cane.
我总是想起他说
And I would always go down to the memory that,
"你要挨打了 你要挨打了 你要挨打了"
"Oh, you'll be caned. You'll be caned. You'll be caned."
我当时真的很害怕
And I was so scared.
我不想见到那个爱体罚的老师
I didn't want to see that abusive teacher.
我非常顽皮 很爱冒险
I was extremely naughty, extremely adventurous.
我会真的回学校
So I would actually go to school,
假装要进教室
and I'd pretend I'm going inside,
然后逃走
and I would run away.
学校在动物园后面
The school was behind the zoo,
所以我总是到动物园去
so I would always go back to the zoo.
园区里有个人卖♥♥咖喱角
And then, there was this guy who used to sell samosas
就在墙上开了个洞
from a hole in the wall.
他不是动物园里合法的摊贩
He was not a vendor legally inside the zoo.
但我记得他会伸手出来
But my memory is that his hand would come out,
我就会把钱递给他 然后拿到咖喱角
I would give him the money and I would get my samosas.
我从没见过他
I never saw him.
所以我连他长什么样都不知道
So I don't even know his face.
人们说孩子的性格会随着年龄增长逐渐养成
They say that you grow as a kid, your character develops then.
我就是这样变成一个热爱美食的人
That's how I became a foodie, actually.
印度人有两种命运
There are two lives in India.
一种是含着金汤匙出生
One, you're born with a golden spoon.
如果你没有那种好家世 就要挣扎求存
If you are born somewhere below that, there's a struggle.
从你在医院降生 离开母亲身体的那一刻起
The sudden moment you're out of the womb of your mom, in the hospital,
你父亲就要争夺医院的床位
your father must have fought for the hospital bed.
我就是来自这种家庭背景
And my background is a similar one.
有些时候过得很艰难 因为我很穷
There were times that were difficult... because I was poor.
我父亲很穷 我母亲也很穷
My father was poor. My mom was poor.
我小的时候 我父亲经历过大起大落
When I was young, my dad had these waves.
某一年他生意很兴盛
One year he would do amazing, good business,
但转眼间 就会衰落
and then, suddenly, there were downfalls.
我还记得大学二年级那年
I remember, the second year of my university,
我父母住在租来的房♥子里
my parents were living in a rented house.
有一天我收到家里寄来的信
I get a letter from my family.
我的母亲写道
My mom literally wrote that,
"我不住在房♥子里了 因为没钱交电费"
"I am not staying in the house because there's no electricity."
电费是175卢比 相当于4美元
Electricity was 175 Indian rupees, which is four dollars.
如果他们连4美元都没有
If they didn't have four dollars,
我不知道他们当时有多拮据
I don't know what they were going through.
我离家很远 非常远
I was away. Far away.
我父母确保我受到良好的教育
My parents made sure that I had a proper education.
但同时 我的家人却流落街头
And, at the same time, my family literally was on the streets.
我看到那封信时 我...
When I saw that, I... I just...
我难过得哭了 不能自已
Tears came out of my eyes. I couldn't control.
我觉得很羞愧
That was very shameful.
在印度 由于大众受教育程度不高
In India, because the society is not very educated,
他们看重你的身份
they look at what you are,
你有身份时他们就会接受你
and they accept you when you become something.
那天我决定"我一定要成为全印度最好的厨师
That day, I thought that, "I have to be the best chef in India.
我想当最厉害的
I want to be the best.
我一定要出人头地
I have to really do well
确保我的父母再也不必过那种生活"
and make sure my parents don't go through it."
看好了 这个
Okay, look. Now, this is...
-合格吗 不 -合格
- Select, no? - Yes.
合格 你看
Select. Okay, so you see...
这些都完美 完美 完美 完美
It's like, perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect.
垃圾 淘汰
Shit, out.
完美 完美 完美 完美 完美
Perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect.
完美 完美
Perfect, perfect.
垃圾 淘汰
Shit, out.
-明白吗 -嗯
- Is that okay? - Yeah.
完美 完美 完美 完美 垃圾
Perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect, shit.
这个不合格因为这一边没炸透
This is shit because this side is not fried.
这边炸透了 但这边没有 尝尝
This side is fried, but this is not. You see? Try.
我学烹饪的第三年
In the third year when I was cooking,
我成为所有学生中最拔尖的
I became the best among the students.
我在印度一个非常知名的餐厅找到了工作
I got a job at this really famous restaurant in India.
我只是学徒 但我的薪水很丰厚
I was only training, but I was given a very good salary.
当时觉得自己得到了最好的工作
I thought I had the best job.
那六个月里满满都是烹饪
The six months was all about cooking
教学和吸收知识
and teaching and understanding.
那就是我的热情所在
That was my passion.
那里有个厨师负责做印度炒饭
There was this guy who used to make biryani.
就是米饭和鸡肉炒在一起 但真的很好吃
Biryani is rice and chicken together. But it was incredible.
我想跟他学做炒饭
I wanted to learn biryani from him.
我早上八点就到餐厅
I used to come 8:00 in the morning.
我中午十二点才开始上班
My shift starts at 12:00 in the afternoon.
但我早上八点就回去 帮他烫好厨师制♥服♥
I would come 8:00 in the morning, iron his chef coats,
帮他从洗衣店取制♥服♥回来
bring his chef coats from the laundry,
每晚把他脏了的制♥服♥拿去送洗
take his stinking chef coat every night...
帮他擦亮皮鞋
polish his shoes,
每周送他一瓶朗姆酒
bring a bottle of rum on a weekly basis.
放75克洋葱籽
Seventy-five grams of onion seeds.
一个月后 他说 "好吧
After one month, he says, "Okay.
我会教你怎么做 从头到尾教会你"
I'll teach you how to make it completely, from the start to end."
400克洋葱
Four hundred grams of onions.
他一步步教我
He taught me. He taught me.
"这样煮米饭 这样处理鸡肉
"This is how you boil the rice. This is how you do the chicken.
每个细节都没漏掉"
This is every detail."
接着他忽然说
Then, in a split second, just...
"能帮我拿牛奶过来吗" 我就去拿牛奶
"Can you bring the milk for me?" I went, brought the milk.
他从口袋里掏出粉末
He took the, uh, powder out of his pocket.
是很特别的混合香料
It was a special spice blend.
这是他家的祖传秘方 他添加到炒饭里
It was his family's blend, and he put it on the stock.
然后整个味道都变了
And the whole flavor changed.
我问他 "那是什么"
I asked him, "What is that?"
他说 "我死都不会告诉别人"
His answer was, "This will go to my grave."
我恨他
I hated him.
我告诉他 "你是厨师界的耻辱"
I told him, "You're a disgrace to the chef."
他摁着我的头 押着我去见我的老板
He took my head. He took me to my boss.
他说 "你训练的这些厨师学徒
He said, "These guys, who you train as educated chefs,
完全不懂得何谓尊重"
they don't know how to respect."
我当时哭了 觉得很难堪
And I was crying. I was embarrassed.
我当着一百个人的面被粗暴地对待
I was physically manhandled in front of 100 people.
酒店里有很多故事
There were so many stories in that hotel.
我们听说过有学徒被踢打
We would hear stories that some trainee chef has been kicked,
被掌掴 被推搡
somebody has been slapped, somebody has been pushed.
简直是地狱 我受不了了
It was a disaster. That was the end.
就在那天 我辞职了 之后再也没回去过
That day, actually, I quit it. And I never went back.
那个环境里充斥着仇恨
There was so much hate in that environment.
那些人内心充满怨愤
There was so much frustration in those guys.
他们拿我们出气
They took out all their frustration on us.
我讨厌这样 我无法接受
I just hated it. I couldn't... I couldn't accept it.
我现在已经实现了当年的目标
I have what I wanted.
这就是我当年想完成的梦想
This is what I dreamed at that time of life.
但我不觉得这是我想要的
But I don't think this is what I want.
当时的现实和我理想中的烹饪大相径庭
I couldn't accept what was reality of cooking...
我无法接受
and what I was thinking as cooking.
它们是截然不同的两个世界
They were two different worlds.