主厨的餐桌（2015）

这是三种不同的鱼
Yeah, they're three different fishes.
是帕布达鱼
Oh, wow! This is pabda fish.
这是一种鱼 一种河鱼
Pabda is a fish. It's a river fish.
只有中间一条直骨 脂肪很厚
So it's got one little bone in the center, lot of fat.
他们煮的时候放黑孜然调味
Okay, and then they cook with this black cumin,
一点姜黄都不放
with literally no turmeric.
他们煮木豆时不喜欢放姜黄
They don't like putting turmeric to dal.
所以看起来是淡黄色
That's why it's so light yellow.
当提起印度食物时
When you think of Indian food,
人们通常想到咖喱鸡 印度馕
you think chicken tikka masala, you think the naan bread.
格瑞玛·阿罗拉
嘠贡 副厨
世界闻名的印度菜差不多就这些
That's what's known world over. That's about it.
但其实还有很多
But there's so much more.
你看这些脂肪
Look at the fat.
印度有28个邦
There are 28 different states.
每个邦里
Within each of those states,
都有一百种不同的烹饪方式
you have 100 different kinds of cooking.
五花八门
It is so varied.
印度料理有30到36种菜系
When you look at India, our cuisine has 30 to 36 cuisines itself,
随着地域的变化而截然不同
completely different to the geography.
但万变不离其宗的是咖喱
But then they all become a curry.
咖喱这个词来自英国
Curry came from British, the word.
他们把所有带汤汁的料理统称为咖喱
They named anything that was saucy or soupy a curry.
我们的语言里没有"咖喱"这个词
In our own language, there's no word called "Curry."
我母亲就不知道什么是咖喱
My mom doesn't know what is a curry.
我们将入侵的文化纳为己有
So what we have done is taken any invasion that has happened...
比如英国 再之前是莫卧儿帝国
the British, before the British was the Mughals...
他们改变了整个国家的烹饪方式
they have actually changed the cuisine of the country.
太不可思议了
This is amazing.
咖喱鸡是印度料理的代表 对吧
Chicken tikka masala symbolizes Indian food, no?
我很喜欢吃咖喱鸡
I love my chicken tikka masala.
但这并不是印度本土料理 是英国人发明的
It was not even Indian. This is a British invention.
英国人引入了茶
British brought us tea.
两百年前 我们没有茶
Two hundred years back, we didn't have anything called tea.
我们只喝酸奶
All we did was drinking yogurt as lassi.
连馕和烤饼都不是印度的
Even the naans, the breads, were not Indian.
而是来自波斯
They are actually Persian.
我们向世界描绘的印度并不准确
We have portrayed a wrong picture of India.
这都怪我们自己
It's our own fault.
我们安于将印度菜停留在亲民料理
We've kept Indian food as comfort food,
所以印度厨师至今未能登峰造极
and that's why Indian chefs have not excelled.
这些就是脂肪
This is the fat.
大家普遍有一种心态
There is a mentality that
认为印度料理出不了世界级的厨师
Indian cuisine doesn't produce serious chefs.
但嘠贡正在改变这一点
But that's what Gaggan is changing.
不管奶里加了多少水 酸奶都会...
And whatever water the milk had, the yogurt had...
他超越了许多顶尖大厨
He's pushing past those best sellers.
他希望向世界展现真正的印度菜
He wants to show the world what Indian food really is.
这不公平
That's not fair.
想都别想 他要吃掉了
Don't even think about it! He'll eat it!
不要
No!
-对 -芫荽
- Yeah. - Coriander?
-加点盐 -别放芫荽
- A little bit of salt. - No coriander.
人们通常不会将印度菜和试味套餐联♥系♥起来
People don't normally associate Indian food with tasting menus.
我从没见过有试味套餐 全部都是点菜式
I'd never been to a tasting. It's always been à la carte.
然而嘠贡让我们了解到
And we've learned with Gaggan,
印度菜出奇地适合以试味套餐形式呈现
Indian food is surprisingly well-suited to tasting menus.
餐单 你们知道要准备多少餐单
Order! You know how many orders coming.
我要两人份 五人份 七人份分开
I want two people, five people, seven people.
不要十五人份一起准备
Don't make 15 together.
先出两人份 好了再换五人份
You just give two, ready. Five, ready.
-明白了吗 -明白
- Is that okay? - Yes.
-我这样下单行不 -行
- Am I okay to order with that? - Yep.
我要求你们达到这个水平
And that's the quality I expect from you guys.
都没问题吧 一起说"没问题"
Are we okay? Are we saying "Yes" Together? Yes?
-没问题 -谢谢 爱你们
- Yes. - Ah, thank you. I love you all.
菜单的第一部分是快速开火
The first part of the menu is a rapid-fire.
我希望食客被食物射中
I want people to be shot with food...
近距离被击中
at a point-blank range.
在他们觉察之前就征服他们
You kill them before they even realize it.
你来到餐厅 下好单的那一刻
That moment you arrive, the moment your orders are placed,
第一道菜就连上三碟
your first order comes with three plates.
然后 再上三碟 接着再上三碟
Again, three more plates. Again, three more plates.
都是一口能吃完的分量 比如"鸟巢"
These are bites like the Bird Nest,
这道菜看起来像鸟巢 但是是素食
which looks like a bird nest but is completely vegetarian.
"坚果袋" 大部分食客会把袋子撕开
The Nut Bag, which most people tear.
"我要吃里面的坚果" 其实袋子也能食用
"Ah, let me eat the nut." No. Edible plastic bag.
直接放进嘴里 就会在口腔里爆开
Just put it in the mouth, and it gives you a little explosion.
我希望头十道菜
I want my first ten dishes
他们在25分钟之内就吃完
to be finished in the first 25 minutes.
然后步调会慢下来
And then you take the pace slow.
他带食客踏上非比寻常的美食之旅
He just takes people on this incredible journey
尝遍印度各个地区的口味
to all regions of India.
羊肉 羊肉 羊肉 羊肉 羊肉
Lamb! Lamb! Lamb, lamb, lamb.
菜单上有一些常规菜式
There's a few standard things that stay on the menu,
但还会不断推出
but there's constantly new things coming
令人惊喜的新菜式
that are really surprising.
比如有被他称为印式鹅肝酱的这道菜
You get what he calls Indian foie gras,
其实是羊脑 是印度的一道珍馐
which is goat brain, which is a delicacy in India.
他经常跟食客介绍说这是印式鹅肝酱
He often introduces it as Indian foie gras,
等他们吃完了才告诉他们其实是什么
without telling people what they're eating until they've had it.
然后给大家揭晓惊喜 你刚刚吃的是羊脑哦
Then it's a big surprise. You've just had some lovely goat brain.
最后 知道每个食客
Eventually, knowing that everybody,
潜意识里
somewhere in the back of their head,
都想尝尝
has that desire to have a good
美味的咖喱和新鲜烤好的馕饼
curry and some good freshly-baked naan bread,
于是他就送上这道菜
he delivers that.
他自己煮咖喱 但他等到用餐快结束时才煮
He does the curries, but he does them at the end of the meal.
接近尾声时才上咖喱
They come out much, much later.
他喜欢吊人胃口
He does things to be provocative,
不断给大家带来惊喜和满足
and will continue to surprise people and satisfy people.
让顾客思考厨师做了什么
It's very difficult to make
是很困难的事情
your guests think about what you have done.
如果你尝了我的23道菜套餐 你就会思考
If you take my menu of 23 courses, you are getting to think.
一旦让顾客开始思考
And once you make them think,
他们就会明白印度料理也是非常了不起的
they'll understand that Indian food can be incredible.
-能让我搅拌一下吗 -这会违反规定
没关系啦 你在怕什么
好吧
你瞧 画8字来搅拌会更均匀
看到我怎么画8字了没
这样搅拌就不会烧糊了
不会焦掉 只要画8字来搅拌
我辞去那份工作后 回到家里 心想
When I left that job, I came back home and I thought,
"结束了 我已经失去对烹饪的激♥情♥了
"This is it. I'm losing my passion.
我该如何是好 离开这一行吗"
What do I do? Should I quit cooking?"
然后我遇到一个人
And then, I met a guy
他跟我说 "我们来承办餐饮吧"
and he said, "Let's do industrial catering.
你很会煮菜 我们可以承办餐饮"
You are a good chef. Let's do industrial catering."
于是我开始工作
So I started working.
我们开了个工厂 类似食物工厂
We opened this factory, food factory kind of a thing.
那个给了我们梦想的人
The man who gave us the dreams,
他是我的搭档 结果他跑了
he was my partner and he ran away.
那简直就是灾难
It was a disaster.
我就是个大笨蛋
I was a fool.
结果我有一年没接到任何生意
So I was without any business for one year.
我的贷款翻了一倍 两年后变成三倍
My loans became double. And then it became triple for two years.
曾有一天 我接到价值15卢比的一个订单
There was a day that I had got an order for 15 rupees.
我要送咖喱鸡和米饭
I had to deliver chicken curry and rice
给必胜客的员工
to employees of Pizza Hut.
一个曾是新一代厨师里最优秀的人
A chef, who was once the best among the new breed of young chefs,
竟然要为了生活给必胜客送外卖♥♥
was delivering to Pizza Hut to sustain life.
我很痛苦
I was suffering.
但我哥哥帮我克服了人生那段低潮期