主厨的餐桌（2015）

And Mike just said, "I'll do that."
其他所有人都沉默不语 因为他们知道
And everybody else just went quiet because they knew, like,
"你这要求的简直就是不可能的"
"Wow, that's... You're basically asking the impossible."
在我看来
In my opinion,
能飘起来的最佳食材就是糖
the best medium to make things float would be sugar.
所以我便开始拿糖做实验
So I started playing around with sugar.
不同的糖 不同的比例
Different sugars, different ratios,
然后脑海中开始迸出一些
and started to come up with something that
还算说得过去但又没有实际框架的想法
was semi-reasonable, but didn't have any structure.
我可以给糖充气
I could inflate sugar,
但是我无法弄出漂亮的形状
but I couldn't actually get beautiful shapes or anything.
实际上它们的造型惨不忍♥睹
They're actually pretty horrific-looking shapes.
关键的是要让糖处于一个稳定的状态
The key to it was making the sugar stable.
有一次我们用了糖组合
Once we had just a combination of sugars,
加了一些稳定剂 温度适宜时
with some stabilizer, at the right temperature,
糖在充气后形状便稳定住了
it started to take shape
气球飘着穿过整个厨房♥而且也没有爆裂
across the kitchen and it wasn't falling apart.
当我们拽出第一个气球并把其固定在桌上
When we pulled the first balloon and sat it down...
我们感觉就像是 "这是个里程碑式的成就"
we were like, "Okay, this is a monumental achievement."
我对迈克说"这道菜一旦上了菜单
I said to Mike, "As soon as that goes on the menu,
就是永远都是阿利诺餐厅的菜了
that's an Alinea dish forever.
你能接受吗"
Are you okay with that?"
我当时就想"如果这道菜是我为自己所创
I was like, "This would be really cool
那就太好了"
if I had created this for myself."
就仿佛好像 如果我
Like, if I...
或许我应该狠下心来将其作为
or maybe I shoulda held on to this one
日后我自己的保留菜品
for my own repertoire later.
但这道菜现在已经是阿利诺餐厅的了
But this is an Alinea dish now.
所有的主厨都希望因刀工而被众人所知
All chefs want to be known for using a knife.
切割 创作 煎炒烹炸 等等
Cutting, creating, sautéing... doing all of that.
但或许这都不是最重要的
But maybe that's not the most important thing.
也许最重要的是
Maybe the most important thing is
将脑海中的那个小小的想法
taking that idea, that little nugget...
交给其他人去实现
and handing it to someone else.
然后接下来如你所知
And then next thing you know...
有人便拿出了一只糖气球
somebody's holding a balloon.
还有两份涂鸦 现在总共是10份了
...and two Graffiti. That's ten now.
三个两人份 十个四人份 其中一份做素食
Three deuces and a four-top by ten more... One's an OL veg.
我记得手术后从麻醉状态中恢复
I remember coming out of the anesthesia after the surgery,
院方给我做了个活检
where they took the biopsy.
布莱尔医生说"你身上没有癌细胞了"
Dr. Blair said, "You're clean."
我的癌症痊愈了
I was cancer-free.
几周之后 有一天我醒来
A few weeks later, I wake up,
往咖啡里面加了很多糖
dumped a bunch of sugar in my coffee...
一大口下去
took a swig...
我自言自语道"天啊 好甜
and thought to myself, "God, it's sweet!
真的好甜"
It's really sweet."
然后我放下杯子
And then I put the cup down...
看了看 又喝了一口
kind of looked at it, took another drink and was like...
"哇 我能尝出糖的味道了
"Wow, I can taste sugar now.
我的味觉回来了"
It's coming back."
一个月后 我用三个手指夹了一些盐
A month later, I'm grabbing three finger pinches of salt
扔到舌头上
and just throwing 'em on my tongue...
然后发现我能尝到盐的味道了
and then I could taste salt.
味觉逐渐恢复了
It started to come back in waves.
但其实有趣的是
But the interesting thing was...
一切味道交织在一起的那个瞬间
when everything started colliding together.
我们出生之时
When we're born,
感知味道的能力非常有限
we have a very limited ability to perceive flavor.
随着你逐渐长大 你开始能辨别更多的味道
And as you get older, you're able to discern more.
但是你那时太年幼了 无法记住这些味道
But you're so young, you're not able to have that flavor memory.
而且那时也没有聪明到可以弄明白
And you're not intelligent enough, at that point,
那些味道是如何在舌尖交相辉映的
to figure out how all of those things work in synergy.
我在33岁的时候体验到了这一点
I got to experience that as a 33-year-old.
对于我来说这是种启示
To me, it was revelatory.
就好像 作为一位主厨 我的整个世界都变了
To me, it was like... my whole world just changed, as a chef.
我被一股
I was on fire with...
此前从未有过的能量点燃了
an amount of energy that I think I've never had before...
因为我获得了第二次机会 而我也不想再搞砸
because I got a second chance and I didn't want to screw it up.
蜜桃配卡瓦起泡酒 罗勒 墨累河盐
西班牙餐前小吃五重奏
虹鳟鱼子配甜豌豆 橄榄油 洋甘菊
涂鸦 配胡萝卜喷漆 野生蕈菌
黑松露大爆♥炸♥
培根配奶油糖汁 苹果及百里香
羔羊肉配续随子叶 葡萄 橄榄
芝士蛋糕配抹茶 浆果 木槿
热带水果配朗姆酒 香草 卡菲尔青柠
康复之后 我担心人们会仅仅因为
After I got better, I was concerned that people were gonna
我经历了这次充满讽刺的健康危机
only know who I was because I had this...
才知道我是谁
ironic health scare.
我被贴上"没有味觉的主厨"的标签
I was labeled, "The chef that couldn't taste."
但是现在我们有机会打破一切
But now we have the opportunity to make a very solid break
从头开始
and start again.
每个人都有感受自己真真切切或者的需求
There's a need to feel alive in anybody.
而格兰特的感受方式
And the way that it works for Grant is that,
就是不断地尝试 尝试
he works at something, works at something,
再尝试 然后进行创造
works at something, creates it...
他说"我要现在做出完全迥异的改变"
He goes, "Oh, now I need to go do something radically different."
而创新
And new is a way
就是他推动自己不断向前的方式
of feeling like he's propelling himself forward.
浮木
托罗罗配黄油
狗爪螺
烤肉叉 香鱼/鳗鱼
日式
海带卷
北海道黄油
日式海盐
数独游戏
想象一下如果你有一整面覆盖着帆布的墙
Imagine if you have a wall covered with canvas
我们在上面泼洒酱汁
and we threw sauces on it.
然后他们来
And then they came up
用勺子把酱汁刮下来
and scrape the sauces off with their spoon, right?
我们不会真那么做的
We wouldn't do that.
但可不可以用这种方式去思考呢
But is there a way to think about it like that?
有好几次我们看着他
There have been times where we've literally looked at him
他说"把那些菜都丢掉
and he's been like, "You know what? Scrap all those dishes.
所有都扔掉" 你就会想
Just get rid of them all." And you're like,
"这挺好啊 你这 为什么要都扔了"
"This is good. What are you... Why are we getting rid of this?"
跟他在一起 总是在不断探寻
With him, there's always the hunt for, like,
"怎样摆盘更酷
"What's the cooler plate?
怎么摆盘更好 什么食材更好
What's the better plate up? What's the better ingredient?
达到怎样的境界更好
Where's the better place to go?
怎样做更好"
What's the better thing to do?"
如果你这样做呢
What if you went like this?
让烟点着
Get the smoke going
然后把鸡尾酒基酒倒进去 这就...
and then pour the cocktail base and it would just...
-那 那就是个新的醒酒器了 -没错
-That... that should be the new decanter. - Exactly.
-那应该就作为新的醒酒器 -说真的 是的
-That should be the new decanter. - Seriously. Right.
我们讨论创作 讨论革新
We talk about creativity and we talk about innovation.
这俩样便是格兰特工作的核心所在
That's at the core of what Grant does.
我们因此而崇拜他 视他为传奇
We wanna lionize him and romanticize him for that.
但是创作和革新
But you can't be creative and you can't be innovative
是伴随着风险的
without being risky.
这也是件既有趣又危险的事情
That's the thing that's also so interesting and so dangerous.
因为他们这十年来完成了非常多的成就
Because now they've done so much for ten years on.
你要怎样做才能一直推陈出新
What can you keep doing that's new,
而且依然被人们所喜爱呢
that people will still like?
而你会不会在寻求创新的过程中
And will you destroy yourself or destroy your reputation,
毁掉自己或者毁掉声誉
or destroy the restaurant as a business...
甚至是毁掉餐厅的生意呢
in the pursuit of doing something new?
你怎么知道会不会这样呢
How are you gonna know?
你怎么知道是否会成功呢
How are you gonna know if it's gonna work?
这个布局的整体思想就是
The whole idea with this layout is to...
让这个房♥间像变色龙一样
make this a room that is like a chameleon.
这就是我们一直讨论的问题
I mean, this is what we've all been talking about.
我们将在一月份关掉餐厅进行翻新
We're closing the restaurant in January to renovate,
而且 很显然 会利用停工这段时间去学习
and, obviously, use that downtime to learn
和创造新技术以及新的服务风格