主厨的餐桌（2015）

I think it's compelling.
于是我开始考虑在就餐体验中引入各种气味
I started thinking about involving smells into the experience.
我们如何在调味过的食物中加入香味呢
How do we insert seasoning food with aroma?
-西蒙 -什么事 主厨
- Simon? - Yes, Chef?
枕头准备得怎么样了
How are the pillows?
枕头都准备好了 主厨 随时可以取用
Pillows are good, Chef. Ready to go.
我有一个从阿姆斯特丹回来的朋友
I had a friend come back from Amsterdam,
他给我看了一种雾化器
and showed me, uh, a vaporizer.
我们开始在雾化器中
We started filling the chamber
装入各种拥有浓烈香气的物质
with all kinds of these really strong aromas,
这样我们就能把香气封装进枕头里
and we were able to take that aroma, encapsulate it in a pillow,
把枕中的香味作为一道菜呈上餐桌
and have that flavor a dish at the table.
在一家情感世界和感官世界
In a restaurant where you are working in the emotional realm
同等重要的餐厅里工作
as much as you're working in the sensory realm,
气味就是将两个世界直接连接起来的桥梁
scent is gonna be the bridge between the two that's most direct.
每个人都经历过第一次约会时初次
Everyone has that moment where they smell that first perfume
在对方身上闻到的香水或古龙水味道的那个时刻
or that first cologne that your, like first date wore.
你立刻就记住了那个味道
And you remember it instantly.
无论你身处何方 多大年纪
It doesn't matter where you are, how old you are.
你立刻就记住了那个味道
You remember it instantly.
当他们把香气运用到料理中
When they play with aroma,
他们就把一顿饭变成了一场真正的情感体验
they turn a meal into a truly emotional experience.
我们把烹饪中夹杂的情感作为调味品
We treat the emotional component of cooking food as a seasoning.
你往料理中加盐 加糖 加醋
You add salt, you add sugar, you add vinegar...
加入留恋
you add nostalgia.
如果你能感动顾客 那我们就进入了新的境界
If you're able to move people, we're moving on to something else.
那就不仅仅事关美食了
It's not just about food.
不仅仅事关餐厅或者前来用餐
It's not just about a restaurant or eating dinner.
就变成事关在此之上的情感了
It's about something more.
以豆之名 豆蔻香枕梦繁蔬
(2006)
离开特罗特的餐厅之后
After leaving Trotter's,
我翻看了一本《葡萄酒观察家》的杂♥志♥
I was paging through a Wine Spectator magazine.
在书最后面有一小段
And way in the back, there was a little paragraph
是关于一家开在扬特维尔
about this new restaurant
名为法式洗衣房♥的新餐厅的
that had just opened in Yountville called The French Laundry.
法式洗衣店
我读了之后便对自己说"我想到那里工作"
I read it and I said, "You know, I wanna work there."
我便去了那里 走进前门
I go out there, walk in the front door
第一眼见到的是位正在拖地的瘦高个
and the first person I see is some lanky guy mopping the floor,
我就问主厨是否在店里
so I literally ask if the chef's in.
他说
And he said...
"我就是托马斯"
"I'm Thomas."
这跟查理的管理方式大相径庭
It was such a departure coming from Charlie's, management style,
整个厨房♥里只有他一个人 还亲自拖地
to some guy that was the only one in the kitchen, mopping the floor.
1996年10月28日 我开始在那里工作
I started October 28th, 1996.
托马斯那年获得了詹姆斯·比尔德
Thomas had won James Beard Best Chef:
加利福尼亚州最佳主厨奖
California that year.
第二年他获得了全美最佳主厨奖
The next year he won Best Chef: United States.
感觉就像是自己在跟大♥师♥并肩工作
It felt like I was rubbing shoulders with the master.
我想成为托马斯·凯乐那样的主厨
I wanted to be Thomas Keller.
于是我全身心投入到学习如何像他一样烹饪
And I was super dedicated to learning how to cook like him.
分♥析♥厨房♥中发生的一切
Everything is analyzed.
这样做完美吗
Is it perfect?
如果不完美的话 怎样才能使其完美
If it's not, how can we make it perfect?
我充满激♥情♥地追求着完美
I just became passionate about the pursuit of perfection.
在那待了一段时间之后
After being there for a while,
我觉得自己可以做到像他一样思考了
I felt like I could think like him.
于是我便自创了这道鱼子酱哈密瓜
So, I come up with this caviar and cantaloupe melon dish.
我还记得当我把这道菜放在他面前
I remember putting it in front of him.
他尝了尝 微笑道 "真的很好吃"
He tasted it, smiled, and said, "That's really good."
对于一位年轻的厨师来说
For a young cook,
这种褒奖把你的自信心提升了一个层次
that puts your confidence at a level that's just--
仿佛那一刻你是所向披靡的
You're invincible at that point.
然后他说 "你知道接下来会发生什么
And then he said, "You know what's gonna happen.
我们会把这道菜加进菜单中
We put this dish on the menu...
现在这道菜就是托马·斯凯乐的了
this is now a Thomas Keller dish
你再也不能做这道菜了
and you'll never be able to do it again.
这样你能接受吗"
Are you okay with that?"
我非常自负地
Very arrogantly...
笑着说
I laughed, and I said...
"我还有许多奇思妙想
"Plenty more ideas where that came from.
就把这道菜加进菜单中吧"
Let's put it on the menu."
半个辣椒仔 或者其他什么味道
百合
桃子
木耳 鸡尾酒
蘑菇 调味冰
除了在尺寸上做文章
Is there a way to expand,
还有其他拓展方式吗 比如时间
instead of scale, time?
我们从未在时间上做过尝试 对吗
We've never explored time really, right?
你们是不是跟不上我的思路了
Did I lose you?
那是史提芬霍金鼓捣的东西
That's some Stephen Hawking shit.
如果我们从每道菜品中各取出一个组成部分
Let's say we take one component from all courses
然后将它们融合成最后那道甜点
that we then use to make the final dessert.
你在这顿大餐中品味到的所有风味
All of the flavors that you just experienced in the meal...
都会在最后这道甜品中再次呈现
would be represented in the final course.
这就需要彻底地...
It'd just require an entire...
你得规划好整个菜单
You'd have to plan the entire menu.
我们基本上得从头做起
We would literally start all over.
迈克和我的对话是这样的 我说
Mike and I have this conversation where I go,
"日复一日千篇一律让我感到很无聊"
"Doing the same thing over and over again feels boring to me."
然后他说
And then he'll say, "Well,
"如果你看看预约单就会发现
if you look at the reservation sheet...
今晚来的所有客人
none of the guests that are coming in tonight
此前都未曾来过这间餐厅
have ever been to this restaurant before.
所以对于他们来说这一切是全新的"
So for them it's all new."
我说"没错 但是 对于我们来说呢"
And I go, "But, yeah, but... what about us?"
每天晚上 我们都会看看我们的菜单
Every night, we'll look at our menu.
仿佛"这份菜单上的菜我们做了有三个月了吧
It's like, "Oh, we've been doing this for three months.
是时候推陈出新了"
It's time for that to go."
有时候 灵感就来自于此
And sometimes the process just starts from that,
迈克·巴加尔
阿利诺餐厅 行政主厨
来自于我们就盯着菜单看的那一晚
on a night we just look at the menu.
这是个绝对疯狂的思维过程 但却非常必要
Absolutely crazy thought process, but it's completely necessary.
下一站 | 阿利诺姐妹餐厅
到底什么才是重要的
What is important?
是招牌菜吗
Is it... a signature dish?
不 是开一家有自己美食哲学的餐厅
No, it's about having a restaurant with philosophy,
把创意作为第一要务
where the creativity is the priority.
我们本可以创造出一份最伟大的畅销菜单
We could have created a greatest hits menu...
但我想 如果我们那样做了
but, I think, if we do that,
就会掉进与创意背道而驰的陷阱中去
we fall into that trap of... almost counter-creativity.
我觉得周三晚上
I don't think Wednesday night,
我们并不会呈上前所未有的最好的一餐
we're gonna put out the best meal that we've ever put out.
但我们认为重要的是意识到
But I think it's important to recognize the fact that...
我们是在推陈出新这个事实
we're putting out different meals.
对于我来说 用餐体验的进化更为重要
To me, the evolution of the experience is almost more important.
托马斯·凯乐无疑是位不断超越自我的先锋
Thomas Keller was certainly pushing boundaries and avant-garde.
但我总想更进一步
But I was always wanting to go a little bit further.
他意识到了这一点并对我加以鼓励
And he recognized that and encouraged it.
他安排我去斗牛犬餐厅工作一周
He arranged for me to go work at El Bulli for a week.
费伦·阿德利亚 世上最伟大主厨的
炼金术奇迹与超然主义烹饪的真实事迹揭秘
作者 迈克尔·帕特尼迪
当我走进斗牛犬餐厅
When I walked into El Bulli,
费伦做的第一件事就是把我带到就餐区
the first thing Ferran did was put me in the dining room...
招待我吃了一顿饭
and fed me a meal.
席间有如玻璃般半透明的意式烩饭
There was translucent risotto that looked like glass.
还有会在你离开时跟你挥手的乳胶手套
There was a latex glove that waved at you as you left.
我感觉自己像是在火星上
It felt like I was on Mars.
费伦像是在说"这不仅是为了满足你的口腹之欲
Ferran was like, "This is not only meant to satisfy you here.
同时也是为了刺♥激♥你的思维"
It's meant to stimulate you here."
当我回到法式洗衣房♥餐厅之时
And when I came back to The French Laundry,
我异常兴奋地开始了自己的探索之旅
I was just super excited to go down my own path of exploration.
我当时在卷意大利肉饺 我挑了一条油封鸭腿
I was rolling agnolotti, and I pick up a leg of duck confit.
烹饪产生的凝胶开始在我手中融化