主厨的餐桌（2015）

People are going to think you don't like going to school.
但那是事实呀
But that is actually true.
我从烹饪学校毕业后
By the time I graduated from cooking school,
对自己的烹饪技术很满意
I was happy on how I was cooking.
感觉掌握的技术够开一家餐厅了
I felt I... I knew enough to open the restaurant.
我就回到了墨西哥
So I went back to Mexico,
我的父母会邀请些朋友过来
and my parents would have friends over,
我就开始做晚餐
so I just started making dinners.
他们都会说"太美味了"
They were like, "Oh, this is delicious."
我就说"是啊 我想开家餐厅"
I'm like, "Yeah, I'm trying to open a restaurant."
当时有人投资了大约三千美元
There were people that were investing, like, $3,000.
我就这样凑到了钱 使出浑身解数
That's how I got the money. I showed my best.
普霍尔在2000年五月六日第一天开张
The first day we opened Pujol, it was May 6th, 2000.
那天是什么情况
So what happened that day?
什么情况 没什么情况
What happened? Nothing happened. Uh...
几个朋友过来了
A few friends came over...
什么情况都没有
but there was nothing going on.
没有下单 没有收益 什么都没有
No. There's no papers, no interest, no anything.
我还以为自己挺棒 于是开了餐厅
I thought I was doing great, and then you open a restaurant,
却根本吸引不到四个客人来餐厅
and you can't even get four people in the restaurant.
就像被狠狠地打脸了
It was just like a big slap in the face.
我记得普霍尔旁边当时有家超大的海鲜餐厅
I remember there was this huge seafood restaurant next to Pujol,
门前停满了汽车 我常常走出去心想
and there was lines of cars, and I used to go out and say, like,
"我到底哪里没做对"
"What the hell am I doing wrong?"
因为我知道我的食物质量更好
'cause I knew my food was better quality.
开餐厅的时候 你从没想过会失败
When you open a restaurant, you never think you're gonna fail.
等你开始失败了 人们就开始慌张
And when you start failing, people start panicking.
有时候我就想或许该关掉普霍尔
At some point, I thought maybe I should close Pujol.
真是天底下最痛苦的滋味
It's the worst feeling on Earth.
霍奇米尔科 墨西哥城 墨西哥
一天 我突然走进厨房♥
Just one day, out of nothing, I walked into the kitchen,
每次我不在的时候
and every time they had...
他们都会放音乐
they had music on when I was not there.
等我一进去 他们就关掉了
And I walked in and they turned it off.
我对他们很严格
Uh, I was tough on the guys
我一直不停地督促他们
and I was, like, pushing and pushing and pushing.
时不时还冲他们吼叫
Every now and then, I shouted,
我觉得作为厨师 有些事必须做
and I thought that, as a cook, you needed to do certain things.
需要遵循特定的技巧
You needed to follow certain techniques.
如果在做蛋黄酱
And if you were doing a mayonnaise,
就有做蛋黄酱的方法
there was this way of making a mayonnaise,
而那是正确的方法
and that was the right way.
要想做优秀的厨师 就得那样做
And if you were a good cook, you needed to be like that.
我意识到自己看得太重了
I realized I was taking it too seriously.
我去上过烹饪课
I went into cooking 'cause I
年轻的时候从中获得了很多乐趣
had a lot of fun doing it when I was a teenager,
我也爱跟朋友分享
and I love sharing with my friends.
有时我会忘记
At some point, I forgot about it, uh...
太执迷于做出真正高水准的食物
I was too obsessed trying to produce really high-quality food,
就会忘记其中的乐趣
and I forgot about having fun.
我觉得墨西哥人喜欢玩乐
I think that Mexicans love to have a good time...
如果要在墨西哥开餐厅
and if you're gonna have a restaurant in Mexico,
那就得反应出这点 人们爱玩乐
you need to be a reflection of that, no? Of people having fun.
悠闲懒散 享受生活
Being laid-back and enjoying life,
像享受食物那样享受烹饪
and enjoying cooking as much as you enjoy eating.
于是第二天 我走进厨房♥
So the next day, I walked into the kitchen,
就说"开着吧 没事"
and I said, like, "Yeah, you can leave it on. It's fine."
气氛一下就变样了
That just changed the whole dynamic.
一旦厨师享受烹饪
Once the cooks were enjoying their work,
他们的水平就会好很多
they performed much better,
从此以后我们的客人越来越多
and that is when we started to get more and more customers.
食品柜里有什么香料
Which spices do we have in the pantry?
有肉桂
We have cinnamon,
八角 孜然 多香果
star anise, cumin, allspice...
还有八角
We have star anise?
-放一些进去 -好 主厨
- Let's throw a couple of those in. - Yes, Chef.
-味道就没那么传统 -好 主厨
- So it'll be less traditional. - Yes, Chef.
我通常喜欢在做菜时
So, usually, what I like to do is, uh,
想想自己想怎么吃
think of how I like to eat uh, when we create a dish.
比如 菜单上的鸡肉菜肴
So, for example, the chicken dish that's on the menu,
碳水化合物含量太高
it's too high on carbs,
所以我想减轻菜单上的碳水化合物含量
so I want to do something that is lighter for the menu.
因为我们不想做得太传统
Uh, because we don't want it to be too traditional...
我不想做出我祖母会做的菜
I don't want to do the same things my grandma did.
我们要做的就是改变香料的使用
Uh, what we're doing is we're changing the spice.
我喜欢茴香 因为好消化
Uh, I like anise because it's digestive.
等吃完饭后 会感到舒服轻松
So, at the end of the meal, you should feel nice and relaxed.
你怎么不想做你祖母做的菜
Why don't you wanna do what your grandma did?
因为她已经做过了 对吧
'Cause she already did it, man. Right?
我们这里关心的不是传统
We're not that concerned about traditionality here.
更关心有新点子 厌倦某道菜
It's more about getting new ideas and getting tired of a dish.
有时候我看到一道菜 就像
No? Like, sometimes, I see a dish and it's, like,
"我创作这道菜时到底在想什么"
"What the hell was I thinking when I created this?"
我不再喜欢了
No, I don't like it anymore.
我想创造新菜品 我只是厌倦了
I want to move on, or I... I just simply get sick of it.
每次我到这 都想更改菜单
And so, every time I'm here, I try to change the menu.
我们一直在变 我总是改变想法
We're always changing. I always change my mind.
我喜欢改变 我不喜欢死守计划
I like changing. I don't like to stick to a plan.
高档法国餐厅在客人用餐结束后
Fancy French restaurants, after a meal,
会推着盛着法国白兰地
will wheel a cart around to the table,
阿马尼亚克酒和苹果白兰地酒
full of cognacs and Armagnacs
以及其他餐后酒品绕餐桌一周
and calvados and all of these after-dinner drinks.
在普霍尔也会这么做
So there's an equivalent at Pujol,
只是全都是梅斯卡尔酒
except the bottles are all mezcal.
梅斯卡尔酒跟龙舌兰酒味道很像
Mezcal is very similar to tequila,
但龙舌兰酒是用一种龙舌兰酿制
but tequila is made from one variety of agave.
梅斯卡尔酒是有多种不同的龙舌兰酿制
Mezcal is made from many, many different varieties of agave.
多数梅斯卡尔酒都是在小农场酿制的
Most of the mezcal is made by small farmers.
你能品出龙舌兰生长地的特色
You get the individuality of the area in which it's grown.
某种程度上是墨西哥未被揭晓
It's, uh, kind of an example, in a way, of the unknown,
未得到充分赏识的多样性的例证
or unrealized, under-appreciated diversity of Mexico.
这就是
Here is the beginning of
酿造大杂烩的开始
the production of the Ensamble,
会混合上六种不同的龙舌兰
which is a blend of six different agaves.
是考虑到原厂地而设计的
It was designed thinking of the origin.
你怎么想出要要做混成品
How do you come up with the blends?
其一是按照品种和种类分出来
One way is separating by species, by variety.
其二是挑选特定的某块地
The other is selecting a specific land area,
然后把所有成熟的龙舌兰放进去
and processing all mature agaves on it.
把各种混合一起 却被同一片土地联♥系♥起来
So you mix varieties, but they are linked by a common land.
都在同一个地方生长
They all grew in the same place.
用产品展示地域特色的想法
The idea of a product being able to showcase the terroir,
而该地域连接着土地和人♥民♥
which is the union between the land and the people...
如果用食物就能做到
If we are able to do that with food,
我觉得这想法挺赞的
I think it's a pretty cool idea.
我们渴望这么做
And we aspire to do that.
龙舌兰要二十到十五天才能成熟
Agave plants take about 12 to 15 years to mature.
到时就可以砍下植物
At that point you can cut the plant,
进行加工 然后送来这里酿成梅斯卡尔酒
process it and bring it here to transform it into mezcal.
-时间创造奇迹 -对
- Time makes wonders. - Yes.
也让人衰老
It makes us old.
-我宁愿老去也不想做个傻子 -是啊
- I'd rather be old than a dumbass.- Sí.
最近我经常出差
Lately, I've been traveling a lot for work.
阿莱格拉能理解 但孩子们就比较棘手了
Allegra understands it, but with the kids it's more difficult.
喂 喂
Hello? Hello.
宝贝 亲爱的
Hi, love. Hi, sweetie.
奥尔多想跟你打招呼
Aldo wants to say hello.
好 让他接电♥话♥吧
Okay, put him on the phone.
爸爸
Hi, Daddy.
宝贝 你肚子疼了吗
Hi, love. Did you get a stomachache?
-疼 -你喝了什么
- Yes. - What did you eat?