主厨的餐桌（2015）

What do you want?
诺姆叔叔当时在餐厅里当厨师
Uncle Norm worked at the diner as a cook.
他就是那种痞子叔叔
And he was the bully uncle.
你永远都不知道他什么时候是在开玩笑
You never knew when he was trying to pull a prank
什么时候是来真的
or he was being sincere.
那时候我们店里有酸黄瓜
So, we had these pickles.
他就抓一把薯条
He would grab a bundle of French fries
然后把酸黄瓜裹在薯条的外面
and wrap the pickle around the French fries,
一股脑塞进嘴里
and he would pop one in his mouth.
这一幕恰巧被我看到了
And I happened to see him.
我脑子里就想
In my head, I'm going,
"我是想引我也这么做 这样就能嘲笑我了"
"He's doing it so that I do it, so that he can laugh at me,"
当时我差不多就是这么想的
is basically what I was thinking.
我又想 "管它呢 我要试试"
I go, "All right. Let me try it."
于是我便非常嫌弃地尝了一口
Reluctantly, I took a little bite,
结果非常好吃 我就觉得
and it was delicious. And I go,
"这种吃法听上去很可怕 也挺恶心的"
"That sounds terrible. It sounds gross.
可为什么 为什么尝起来这么好吃呢
Why does it... why does it taste good?"
他就一点一点地给我解释为什么会这样
He went through the steps of explaining why it worked.
这种搭配包含了淀粉 脂肪 酸味 咸味
You have starch, you have fat, you have acid, you have salt.
各种口感相互平衡 就在那一刻 我爱上了烹饪
Everything balances. And at that moment, i fell in love with cooking.
而且不仅仅是料理本身
And it wasn't about physical cooking.
对我来说还有对好奇心的满足
For me it was about curiosity,
以及摆弄各种东西
it was about toying with things.
大约16岁那时 我会用一块橙子皮
When I was probably 16, I would garnish a Western omelet
和一段欧芹来装饰西式煎蛋卷
with an orange twist and a sprig of parsley or something.
而我爸则会说"你这完全是浪费时间
And my dad would be like, "You're wasting your time.
食物只要热腾腾而快速的端上桌就行了"
Food just needs to be hot and fast."
他常识中的料理没有任何表达元素
There was never any elements of expression,
讲述元素 或者艺术元素
or storytelling or art...
对于我爸来说 料理只不过是为了养家糊口
To my father, it was nothing more than a paycheck.
我认为料理不应局限于
I thought there has to be something more than
西式煎蛋卷和汉堡
Western omelets and hamburgers.
我想知道你能否让客人第一眼看去被欺骗到
Well, I wonder if you were able to trick people.
-好的 -如果有一片橙子切片的轮廓
- Right. - It'd be cool if there was a silhouette of...
-在下面肯定会很棒 -是的
- an orange slice under there. - Yeah.
把这道菜端到客人面前之时
And it was dropped in front of somebody,
关键细节工作室|芝加哥伊利诺伊州
他们会穿过菜肴朝底部看去
and they would look through that
然后说"原来下面还有橙子啊"
and say, "Oh, well, there's an orange under here."
于是他们把盘子端起来
And then you would lift it and...
又发现其实并不是橙子 而是别的东西
it wasn't an orange. It was something else.
如果我们能让食物以图案的形式
That would be interesting, if we can have
呈现在盘子上 那就非常有意思了
the food actually play off of the pattern in the piece.
那样我们基本就能打造出一个
Then we can basically build a pattern that
你只会认为是装饰的图案
you wouldn't necessarily read as anything other than a decoration.
那样的话确实很巧妙 没错
That could be really neat. Yeah.
能够以食物惊艳世人是一种非常有趣的动力
It's a fun dynamic to be able to surprise people with food.
这一直都是我们的追求
That's always the thing for us.
每一次都有一点小变化
At every turn, there's, like, a little twist.
现在这道菜 开始的时候菜码非常小
For this current course, it started tiny.
它的灵感源自于一个能够
It was the idea of a centerpiece
引发话题作为谈资的中♥央♥装饰品
that's evocative and produces conversation,
然后最终 它也成为了大餐的一部分
and then, ultimately, it becomes part of the meal.
这样你就得到了一道美观与实用结合的菜肴
Now you have something that is both beautiful and functional.
然后按照这个想法我们又思考到
So then we take that idea and we just go,
"我们在一次完整的用餐体验中
"How many times can we do that
可以做多少次这样的尝试呢"
in the course of the meal?"
我们取出了所有厨具并物尽其用
We took all the tools out of the belt and we used them all.
你觉得这道菜不过是一堆燃烧着的木头
You have what appears to be just a pile of wood on fire.
有点引人入胜的神秘感
There's a sense of intrigue and mystery there
因为你不知道为什么要有火
because you don't really know why the fire is there.
我们故意让你认为
Then we trick you into thinking
之所以有火 是因为你可以拿
the fire is there so that you can take the pine branches off
串有鳗鱼和李子的松树枝放在火上烤
with the unagi and the plum and warm it up.
然后忽然之间
And then at one point,
就在你吃完其他东西之后
as you're eating your way through all of these other components,
领班会走到桌前 把这堆火端到一边 将其熄灭
the captain will come over to the table, remove the fire...
剥开灰烬
pull apart the fire.
其间 你会看到一块被海带
In the middle, you have a piece of chicken thigh
包着的鸡腿肉
that's been wrapped in kombu...
整个用餐过程中一直在你眼皮底下烤着
roasting in that fire, hidden.
顾客们会觉得"你们居然当着我们的面进行烹饪
They go, "You're actually cooking in front of us.
而我们却全然不知"
We didn't even know it."
这时候他们差不多在半个小时内吃了八道菜
And now they have basically eight courses within a half hour
这八道菜的味道彼此交织在一起
that are all somehow weaved together.
对我来说 最重要的就是让顾客能够有
The thing that's important for me is the guest has...
被惊艳到的那个瞬间
the a-ha moment,
那一刻他们会觉得自己"发现"了什么
where they feel that they've "discovered" something.
就像在圣诞节打开礼物的孩子一样
It's like being a kid and opening the present at Christmas.
直到打开盒盖往里面看去
Until you lift that lid and peer inside,
你才直到盒子里到底装了什么
you don't really know what's in there.
然后谜底揭晓 美味随之而至
And then there's the reveal. And then there's the reward.
一次用餐就是一场魔术表演
It's a magic show.
鸡腿肉 配海带 青椒仔 百合
谢谢 谢谢 晚安 谢谢
Thank you. Thank you. Good night. Thank you.
我还记得学厨的时候
I remember, when I was at culinary school,
废寝忘食地读各种烹饪书籍
I was just ripping through cookbooks.
查理·特罗特的第一本书当时恰好刚出版发行
And Charlie Trotter's first book had just come out.
他把美食带到了一个全新的境界
He was taking food to a new place.
基本上那就是我所受启发的根源所在了
That's ultimately what drew me there.
我是小餐馆和烹饪学校出身的
I was diner and culinary school educated.
所以我能做出一顿普通的早餐
So, I can cook a mean breakfast.
但我当时很年轻很稚嫩
But I was young and green, and...
并不知道什么是精致餐饮
I didn't know what fine dining was.
当我开始在厨房♥里工作
I walked in the kitchen.
发现一切跟我以前所经历的完全不一样
It was nothing like I'd ever experienced.
竞争非常 残酷
It was... cutthroat.
厨师会拆你的台 他们想看你失败
The cooks would sabotage you. They wanted to see you fail.
毫无团队协作可言
There was no teamwork.
而高高在上 站在图腾柱顶端的
And at the pinnacle of this, at the head of the totem pole,
就是查理·特罗特
stands Charlie Trotter.
他是位操纵大♥师♥
He was a master manipulator.
他能够进到你的脑海里
He could get inside your head
让你像个木偶一样 去做他想让你做的事情
and make you move like a little puppet, however he wanted.
你给某人做饭时的那种彼此配合的感觉
Just the idea of the connection that you have when you cook for somebody.
在当时完全没有 这让我感到很枯燥
There was none of that. It felt sterile.
让我觉得热情被一点点剥离
It felt stripped away.
这让我质疑关于烹饪的一切
It made me question everything about... cooking.
可能我做了错误的选择
Maybe I made the wrong decision.
可能我不适合做这个
Maybe I'm not good at this.
我告诉他我要离开
I told him I needed to leave.
他告诉我 如果我走了
He tells me how, if I leave,
这家餐厅不会有我在这里工作过的任何记录
there'll be no record of me ever working at the restaurant.
我将一事无成
I won't amount to anything.
我带着满满的挫败离开了特罗特 质疑一切
I leave Trotter's defeated, questioning everything.
说真的 看看这个
I mean, literally, look at this.
-这个特别棒 -要我再去你家拿点吗
- This one's super cool. - Want me to get more from your house?
-这太酷了吧 -确实很棒
- I mean, look at how, just, cool that is. - That's badass.
-是的 绝对的 -看上去像支铅笔
- Yeah, yeah. Totally. Totally. - It looks like a pencil.
-是的 -你再闻闻
- Okay. - And smell it.
-有点像 -是的 闻起来有点像
- It's, like... - Yeah, it's just like--
-好极了 是的 -是的 棒极了
- ...crazy. Yeah. - Yeah. Awesome.
对于我来说 香味的记忆
For me, aroma's always been incredibly important,
始终是至关重要的
in terms of my memory.
烤火鸡的香味
That scent of roasted turkey...
能立马把我带回了10岁那一年
immediately transports me back to when I was ten years old
与家人共度感恩节的那段时光
on Thanksgiving Day surrounded by family.
香气是种非常强大的东西
That's a powerful thing.
如果你能够捕捉它 驾驭它
If you can capture that, if you can harness that
用它来打造一场绝佳的用餐体验的话
to make a... a great dining experience...
我觉得那将会非常令人不可抗拒