主厨的餐桌（2015）

印度 加尔各答
在印度 食物就是我们的信仰
In India, food is our religion.
食物有着深厚的根源
There are deep roots in food.
每隔五十公里 食物都有所变化
Food changes every 50 kilometers.
我们为食物而亡
We die for food.
我们爆发过暴♥乱♥
We had riots.
导致暴♥乱♥的原因是穆♥斯♥林♥不吃猪肉
There are riots because the Muslims won't eat pork
而印度教♥徒♥不吃牛肉
and the Hindus won't eat beef.
印度现在实施牛肉禁令
There's a beef ban in the country,
所以喜欢牛肉的人正在抗♥议♥
so those who like beef, they're protesting.
而那些讨厌牛肉的人则表示
And those who hate beef are saying,
"太好了 终于没有牛肉了"
"Wow, finally we don't have beef."
如果这个对食物有深刻认识的国家
And if that country, which has such deep knowledge about food,
不能以真实的面目展现给世界
is not represented in the world at the right levels...
那就是我的耻辱
it's a disgrace to me.
主厨的餐桌
泰国 曼谷
大约十年前 我认识了嘠贡
I met Gaggan about ten years ago
当时他刚从印度搬来这里
when he moved here from India.
我们听说有个20多岁的印度年轻人
We heard about this young 20-something Indian kid
来到了曼谷
who'd arrived in Bangkok
正在做创新印度菜
and was doing something different with Indian food.
所以我们都很想去了解一下
So we were all quite excited to check it out.
第一次是听一个意大利朋友提起的
First heard about it from an Italian friend,
梅森·弗洛伦斯
全球50最佳餐厅 地区主席
他打电♥话♥跟我说 "你绝对不会相信
who called me and said, "You're not gonna believe this.
马路对面有个印度人在做意大利面"
There's an Indian guy across the road doing pasta."
我说 "意大利面吗"
I said, "Pasta?"
他说 "是啊 他真的在煮意大利面"
He said, "Yeah, he's actually doing pastas."
我又问 "然后呢" 想着他应该会批评
I said, "And?" expecting him to, kind of, criticize and whatever.
结果他居然说 "超级好吃"
And he said, "They're fantastic."
跟螃蟹说我爱你
Tell crab I love you.
各位 过来 都过来
Guys? Come on! Come on, guys!
能给我个碗吗 用来装蟹肉
Can I get a bowl please? A bowl to collect the meat.
到嘠贡时 你会发现员工都很国际化
When you arrive at Gaggan, the staff are all very international.
我来教你们怎么给螃蟹剔肉
I'm going to teach you how to make crab meat.
有西班牙人
There's kids from Spain,
印尼人 巴基斯坦人 印度人
from Indonesia, from Pakistan, from India,
来自世界各地
from all over the world.
把壳揭开
Crack it open.
整个厨房♥相当于联♥合♥国♥
In the kitchen, it's a virtual United Nations.
你能感觉到工作氛围很好
You get quite a good feeling.
泰国曼谷 嘠贡
圣培露2015年全球50佳餐厅
第10名
充满了活力
It's a very energetic vibe.
不会太过正式和死板
Not too formal, not too rigid.
在嘠贡吃一顿饭就是一趟旅程 一次冒险
A typical meal at Gaggan is a journey. It's an adventure.
嘠贡做的每一道菜
Everything that Gaggan's doing
都有印度不同地区的文化根源
has roots in different regions of India.
几乎所有菜式都来源于街头小吃
Almost all of it is street-food rooted.
每一道菜都可以找到对应的小吃
You can trace back the courses.
不管那些菜式有多么精致和疯狂
No matter how sophisticated and crazy they are,
它们都源自印度很本土的食物
they're all rooted in something very local, something indigenous.
嘠贡完全改变了我们
Gaggan completely changed what we think we know
对传统印度菜的刻板印象
as being traditional or classical Indian food.
他带领印度料理走向另一个方向
He takes it completely in another direction.
评价十分两极化 我好像从没听人说过
It's very polar. I don't think I've ever met anyone...
"你吃过嘠贡了 怎么样"
"Oh, you ate at Gaggan. How was it?"
"还行吧 挺好的" 从没听过这种回答
"It was okay. It was pretty good." You never hear that.
要么是 "天啊 太好吃了
It was either, like, "Oh, my God. It was amazing.
是我吃过最美味的一顿饭"
It was the best meal of my life."
要么是 "评价过高 他败坏了印度菜"
Or it was, "It's overrated. He's bastardizing Indian cuisine."
他充满激♥情♥
He's very passionate,
尤其涉及食物和音乐时
especially as it relates to food and to music.
但我要你们都做到的是 认真对待食物
But one thing I want you all to be, is serious with food.
因为那就是我们的信仰
Because that is our religion.
他深受前卫摇滚影响
He was bred on progressive rock,
平克·弗洛伊德 齐柏林飞船
Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin.
他想要把摇滚的精神融入到菜式里
And he wanted to take that and put it on a plate.
他喜欢开玩笑逗乐别人 他非常有趣
He's a joker. He's a comedian. He's a really fun, playful person.
很有幽默感
It's very tongue-in-cheek.
他给菜起名叫"伟哥" "酸奶大爆♥炸♥"
He's got a dish called Viagra, Yogurt Explosion,
"谁是杀羊凶手"
Who Killed The Goat?
不会过于严肃 趣味十足
It's not too serious. It's quite fun and playful.
他独创一格
He's done something completely different.
从没有人尝试过
I don't think anyone did
他对印度食物所做的那些改革
anything close to what he's done with Indian food.
这是革命性的创新
It's totally revolutionary.
格瑞玛 你对味道的印象是什么
Okay, what is... What is, Garima, your memory of taste?
你的印象是什么
What is your memory?
"Chatpata"
Chatpata!
这个词有对应的英文吗
Is there an English word for chatpata?
-就是这个 -你知道吗 就是这个
- Yeah, that's it. - You know? That's it.
就是我们印度人说的"鲜味"
It's our Indian umami.
"Chatpata"是印度语的鲜味
Chatpata is umami for India.
其实就是四味的平衡
Yeah, which is actually a balance of four things.
"Chatpata"包含四个味道
You know, chatpata is a four "S."
甜 咸
Sweet... salty...
这支笔擦不掉的吗 该死
Is it a permanent marker? Oh, fuck.
-糟了 -糟了 好吧
- Oh, shit. - Shit. Okay.
都是你的错
Dude, that's your problem.
甜 咸 酸 还有
Sweet, salty... sour and...
辣
spicy.
这就是"chatpata"
This is the... This is chatpata.
就是我们说的鲜味
This is umami for us.
我年轻的时候
When I was young,
别人跟我说 印度菜做不成高级料理
I was told that Indian food cannot be fine dining.
那让我很生气 真的很生气
And that would piss me off. Completely piss me off.
印度料理十分亲民省事
Indian cuisine is very good at comfort level.
我们的玛莎拉烤鸡
Our chicken tikka masala, in the end,
配上馕就非常美味了
tastes fantastic with the naan bread.
当亲民料理已经如此深入人心
When the comfort food is so good...
人们的观念便很难被改变
it's very difficult to change people's perception.
这就是印度厨师表现不突出的原因
And that's why Indian chefs have not excelled.
他们从来没做过高级的印度菜
They never served proper, good Indian food.
因为他们没有追求极致
Because there was no finesse.
他们永远达不出法国大厨所烹调的
They never served how a French chef
蔬菜杂烩那般的精致度
would serve a ratatouille.
咖喱是现做的 按单定制 必须这样
The curry is fresh. Made to order. That's it.
如果平克·弗洛伊德能写出一首20分钟长
I felt if Pink Floyd can make a 20-minute song
还那么好听的歌♥
and make it sound good,
那我也能做出二十三道印度菜肴
then I can make Indian food, 23 courses,
且只有一道是咖喱
without serving more than one curry.
这是一个挑战
That's a challenge.
我所接受的挑战
That's the challenge I take.
曼谷是街头小吃汇聚的都市
Bangkok is one of the capitals of street food.
人行过道全部
The space where you need to walk
被小吃摊档霸占
is taken over by the street food.
我们连走路的地方都没了
We don't have any pavement space left.
一天中的任何时段
You can find almost everything
你都能在街上找到各种食物
on the street at every hour of the day.
拉面 面条 云吞 鸭肉 炒饭
A ramen, a noodle, a wonton, a duck, a fried rice,
炒粉 玉米片 三明治 汉堡等等
a pad thai,a nacho, a sandwich, a burger...
在曼谷 想吃什么随时都能买♥♥到
Anything in Bangkok, 24 hours, you'll get it.
这里的美食行业蓬勃发展
The food scene here is just booming.
有一些很棒的集市
There's some amazing markets.
这些集市最繁忙的时段是午夜后
The peak hours for these markets are after midnight.
有无数的鲜花 小吃
It's just an amazing array of flowers and street food,
香料 无所不有
spices, everything under the sun.
最辣的辣椒是哪一种
这种
尝一下吧
看起来不会太辣
好辣
的确很辣