我离开佐治亚州时 怅然若失
When I left Georgia, there was a piece of me that was missing.
可能是那阳光 抑或是那沼泽
Maybe it was the sun, maybe it was the marsh,
也许 是那新修剪的青草味
maybe it was the smell of cut grass.
有什么在召唤着我
Something was calling me.
然后 当我回到黄金海岸
And then to come back to the Golden Coast,
与那些人 那片土地连结
and connect with the people and the land,
我开始感觉 有东西开始充盈着我的灵魂了
there's something started to fill my soul.
我想 当一个人决定回乡时
I think that there's a sense of pride and a sense of peace that happens
便会感觉自豪而宁静
when you decide to come back home.
当我行经萨凡纳时
When I walk through Savannah,
没有比这里更适合
there's no better place
追忆过往精神的圣地了 因为那些精神就在此处
to think about the spirits of the past, because they're here.
一走进"灰调"餐厅 你立刻就会明白
When you walk into The Grey, you immediately understand
此处正唤起往日岁月的光辉
this is a place that is evoking the spirit of times past.
餐厅位于吉姆·克劳主义时代一个隔离的汽车站的附近
The restaurant lives in a formerly segregated Jim Crow-era bus station.
"灰调"言行合一 "我们有这段过往 这段历史
What The Grey does is it says, "We have this past, we have this history,
这就是我们的方向" 这是一场积极向前的对话
and here is where we're going." It's a forward-moving conversation.
南方食物情感热烈
Southern food is so charged,
尤其是黑人烹饪的南方食物
particularly when it comes to a black person cooking that food.
在南方 "黑人烹饪"意味着
"Black cooking" in the South means
眉豆 虾 玉米和炸鸡
black eyed peas, shrimp and grits, fried chicken.
玛莎玛·贝利向萨凡纳展示了这些没事
Mashama Bailey has shown Savannah that,
对 你们可以赞美这些传统美食
yes, you can celebrate these traditional dishes,
但我们更能推动它发展
but we can push it, too.
我们可以扩展其疆域
We can expand.
当你看到"灰调"的菜单
When you look at The Grey's menu,
有黄瓜冻汤 食客或许会讶异
you might be surprised, seeing cucumber gazpacho.
殊不知 黄瓜产自南方
But, guess what? We grow cucumber in the South.
如果把黄瓜
If you want to blend cucumber
混在美味的本地香料和夏季番茄中
and mix it with these delicious local herbs and summer tomatoes,
就成了一道南方菜
that's a Southern dish.
玛莎玛所为的美妙之处
What's so beautiful about Mashama
在于她能表达一切
is the extent to which she can express everything
从她在法国所学的白桌布式精致饮食
from white-tablecloth fine dining that she studied in France
到佐治亚州萨凡纳的南方黑人传统
to the Black tradition of the South in Savannah, Georgia.
她的食物构筑了这一桥梁
Her food embodies that kind of bridge.
她正在创作自己的特色美食
She's crafting a personal cuisine of her own,
所以她的食物能引起共鸣
and that's why it resonates.
来到萨凡纳
When you come to Savannah,
就来到了一座充满南方传统的城市
you're in this city that's steeped in Southern tradition.
他们热爱过往
They love the past.
这里有电车环游
There are trolley tours,
人们身着殖民时代衣装
people dressed up in colonial attire.
造访者如愿以偿
People come down and they wanna see that.
他们想看到"灰调"的黑人♥大♥厨炸鸡的场景
They want the black chef at The Grey restaurant to be frying chicken.
我认为那是种侮辱
I just find that to be a slap in the face.
那不是萨凡纳的美食佳品
That's not the best that Savannah has to offer.
要放香肠吗
Should we put the sausage in there?
要 让它都吸收进去
Yeah, let it go soak all the way through.
-好 -你想放几袋
- Yeah. - How many you wanna put in there?
就这三袋 要打开吗
Just the three. Wanna open them up?
不错 我等下给你
That's a good idea, and I'll give them to you.
好
Yeah.
我知道 很香 对吧
I know. It smells good, right?
此处的非洲裔美国人历史
African American history in this area
源远流长
is so rich.
看起来不错
Oh, these look nice.
这些传统和食物
These traditions and food,
是有关历史和传统的保留与传承
it's about the storytelling and preserving heritage.
每当一群人聚于桌边
Whenever you get a bunch of people at a table,
你就能了解身边的人
you learn about the people at that table.
年轻人能了解长辈
The young folks learn about their elders.
学习他们的文化 聆听往日的故事
They learn about their culture and listen to stories about the past.
我觉得自己有责任
I feel this responsibility
通过我的食物教育大家
to educate people through my cooking.
来了
There you go.
天哪
Oh, my God.
这就是我想分享的萨凡纳一角
That's the part of Savannah that I want to share.
-好吃 -真好吃
- That is good. - That's delicious.
很甜
It's sweet.
我们会清干净的
We'll clean 'em up.
哇 这就像...
Oh, this is like...
不错
It's good.
我在萨凡纳长大
I grew up in Savannah.
我妈妈生我的时候19岁
My mom was 19 when she had me,
我们住在黑人区的一个两居室公♥寓♥里
and we had a little two-bedroom apartment in a black neighborhood.
作为萨凡纳的小孩 在这里能感觉到自♥由♥
As a child in Savannah, there was just a sense of freedom here.
孩子们在门廊上 大门打开
There were kids on stoops and doors were open,
大家能会奔跑着拜访彼此
and everyone would just run to each other's houses.
和朋友在门廊上打牌
And you'd play old maid on the porch with your friends.
在太阳下玩了三四小时后
After playing for three, four hours out in the sun,
就会去邻居家买♥♥一种小冰棍
you would go to your neighbor's house to purchase these little Popsicles.
我们叫做"激淋" 它名副其实
We call them "thrills," and it's exactly how it sounds.
吃一根就能激动不已
It's thrilling to get a thrill.
然后我会回家 坐在桌边吃晚饭
And then I would come home, sit around the table and have dinner.
我奶奶会在家
My grandmother would be there.
做一锅玉米
And she would have a pot of grits on
然后用铸铁锅煎鱼
and then she would have fish frying in the cast iron.
她没什么钱
She didn't have a lot of money,
但她的烹饪手法很大方
but the way she cooked was tremendously generous.
烹饪是她向我们表达爱意的方式
Cooking was a way that she just let us all know how much she loved us.
那是我人生中无比诗意的时光
And that was a very poetic time of my life.
我发现 许多关系的核心
I found that the heart of many relationships
都与餐食相连
is surrounded by a meal.
这真的坚定了我对生活的观点和我的人生追求
It really cemented what I think life is and what I want out of life.
玛莎玛在成长过程中
When Mashama was growing up,
目睹了白人街区和黑人街区的
looking at the differences between the white neighborhood
天壤之别
and the black neighborhood,
世道不公
the scale wasn't balanced.
要工作只能去工厂打工或者当帮佣
Opportunities were to work at a factory or being the help.
我们必须去有更多机会的地方
We had to go somewhere where there were more doors open.
我11岁那年 我们搬到了纽约市
When I turned 11, we moved into this middle-class
一个中产非裔美国人住♥宅♥区
African American neighborhood in New York City.
那里有很多医生 律师和会计师
There were a lot of doctors and lawyers and accountants.
我父母一直在工作
My parents were working all the time.
不工作时他们就去上学
When they weren't working, they were going to school.
他们的全部追求就是那个美国梦
All they wanted was that American dream.
他们每走一步 每做一次牺牲
Every move that they made and all of their sacrifices
都是为了能过上好一点的生活
was so they could live a little bit better.
但食物就在被牺牲的行列中
But one thing that was sacrificed was food.
在家乡 总有食物香气 即使在午间也是如此
Back home, it always smelled like food, even in the middle of the day.
但是在纽约 工作和上学比烹饪更重要
But in New York City, working and school was more important than cooking.
今时不同往日
It wasn't the same.
我觉得失去了一部分自我
I felt like there was a piece of me that was missing.
我特别渴望回到南方
I longed to be back in the South.
南方有大量的劳动力
There's a huge labor force in the South.
他们早上出工的时候
And when they go out in the morning,
想要吃一顿扛饿的
they want a meal that is going to sustain them.
嗯 糖浆放在盒子里了 黄油也是 行吗
Yeah, there's syrup in the box and your butter, as well, okay?
祝你今天顺利
Enjoy the rest of your day.
发明牛肝和粗玉米粉这道菜 就是这个原因了
That's why beef liver and grits was invented, why it was born.
人们需要丰富的蛋白质来提供能量
You have this really rich protein that boosts your energy.
粗玉米粉非常朴实
You have grits that are very humble.
是南方早餐的精髓
It's a quintessential Southern breakfast.
几年前 我们在考虑
A few years ago, we were thinking about doing something
新年前夜做一顿超越以往的饭
for New Year's Eve that was really over the top.
我在法国非常喜欢的食物之一 就是鹅肝酱
One of the things that I loved in France was eating foie gras.
我就在那个时候 我突然顿悟
And that's when I had this epiphany.
不用牛肝和粗玉米粉 做个鹅肝粗玉米的料理怎么样
Instead of doing beef liver and grits, why not do a foie and grit dish?
正是这个想法 让南方食物摇身一变
It was really this morph of something Southern
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