主厨的餐桌（2015）

给我们供应优质漂亮的番茄
and he sells us these beautiful tomatoes.
如果你把玉米面饼吃掉了
So what you're eating on top of the taco,
那塔可上面的东西就好比任何高级餐厅
if you take the tortilla off, can become a plated dish
供应的精致菜肴
in any fine dining restaurant.
传下去
Pass it.
好吃
It's good.
太好吃了
So good.
好吃
It's good.
-好吃吗 -好吃
- Good? - Yeah.
多亏了杵臼里剩下的香料
Thanks to those spices that were left over in the molcajete.
我和阿莱格拉认识快二十年了
Allegra and I met almost 20 years ago, I think.
我们没算过 我觉得没必要
We are not counting. I don't think you should count.
这属于秘密
That's part of the secret.
高中的时候她一个人住
And in high school, she lived by herself,
我就开始给她做饭
so I started to cook for her.
我开始烹饪 只是为了取悦阿莱格拉
So I... I started cooking, just trying to impress Allegra,
然后发现自己很喜欢烹饪
and I... I just realized I loved it.
于是开始给朋友烹饪
And then I started cooking for my friends.
很有意思 因为我得逛一天市场
It was fun because I'd get to spend a day in the market
然后回来 烹饪 放点音乐
and then come back, cook, play some music.
跟我朋友连着做了几个周末的晚饭后
Like, after a series of weekend dinners with my friends,
就火起来了 事实上
it got so popular that, actually,
朋友的父母辈
the father or the parents of my friends
就来参加年轻人
went to the parties...
举办的派对了
held by teenagers.
当时我就开始考虑以烹饪为职业
That was the moment I started to think about cooking as a career.
要聊到食物
When we're talking about food,
墨西哥这个国家有很多反差
Mexico is a country with many contrasts.
墨西哥极贫又极富
Mexico is extremely rich in its poverty...
在饮食上正是如此
and I see that in food.
如果你"没得可吃"
When you have "Nothing to eat,"
那只能有什么吃什么
you have to eat anything and everything.
瓦哈卡 墨西哥
几年前 我跟亚历山卓·瑞兹去了瓦哈卡
A few years ago, I went to Oaxaca with Alejandro Ruiz.
我们想去瓦哈卡沿海地区
We wanted to visit the coastal part of Oaxaca.
我们第一站去了特基拉
And we... the first stop was in Tequila.
那有个咖啡农场 还有个叫罗伯托的人
So it's a coffee farm. There's this guy named Roberto.
他是做酱汁的 用杵臼做
He was making a sauce. You know, molcajete.
路途很远 我都要饿死了
And I was starving because it was a long trip.
我直接跑去厨房♥
Directly, I went to the kitchen
找东西吃 于是看见了罗伯托
to grab something to eat and I saw Roberto.
他在做酱汁 我就吃了些
He was making the sauce and I ate it.
简直是我这辈子最难忘美妙的时刻之一
And that's one of the most beautiful moments of my life
因为我尝到了切叶蚁的味道
because I discovered the taste of chicatana ants.
味道很特别 我当时就爱上了
It's a very particular taste, and I just fell in love with it.
是我这辈子
It was one of the most
吃过的最美味的东西
delicious things I've ever tasted in my life.
切叶蚁是飞行蚁 当墨西哥南部
Chicatanas are flying ants, and they come out with the first rain
下过第一场雨后 它们就会出现
that happens in the southern part of Mexico.
所以一年就只有
So four or five days,
四五天能吃到切叶蚁 之后就没了
you have chicatanas in the year, and that's it.
我觉得这就是奢侈的定义
To me, that's the definition of luxury,
因为美味只能维持四天
because you can only have it for four days
而且只有特定的地方才有
and it comes from a very specific place.
这就是我说的"反差"的含义
That's what I mean by the contrasts.
如果一直都有食物吃
If you have food available all the time,
估计就不会吃切叶蚁了
you probably wouldn't have eaten chicatana ants.
如果不是饿得慌 估计就不会吃虫子了
If you weren't hungry, you probably wouldn't have eaten worms.
但正是由于贫困 我们才发掘到美食
But by that poverty... we found things that are delicious.
小玉米配切叶蚁蛋黄酱
等我高中毕业之后
By the time I... I was finishing high school,
我就知道自己想学厨师
I knew I wanted to cook.
我告诉我的朋友时 他们都说
When I told all my friends, they told me, like,
"你疯了吧 那只能当兴趣"
"You're crazy. It's a hobby."
而且墨西哥人往往觉得
Also, in Mexico, in general, there's this thing about
律师 建筑师和医生是理想职业
licenciados and arquitectos and doctores
就好像在食物链最顶端
being, like, higher on the food chain
而厨师 木匠
and cooks and carpenters and
还有管道工则处在食物链低端
plumbers being in the lower part of the food chain.
我很讨厌人们觉得厨师不算个职业
I hated the fact that cooking was not seen as a profession.
那是人们出于需求不得不干的活
It was just something that people did out of necessity.
当时我的偶像是让·乔治和丹尼尔
Back then, my idols were, uh, Jean-Georges and Daniel,
以及所有在纽约有餐厅的主厨
and all these chefs that had restaurants in New York
他们都拿到了《时代周刊》评的四星
and they were getting four stars from the Times.
我就开始查纽约的培训学校
So I started looking at schools in New York.
我不在乎他们的想法
I didn't care what they thought.
我对自己的决定很满意 我会坚持下去
I was happy with my decision and I was gonna pursue it.
我到了烹饪学校后非常快乐
Once I was in cooking school, I was so happy.
我对烹饪技巧
And I was passionate about
以及嫩煎技巧非常感兴趣
technique and passionate about sautéing,
我仿佛成了
and I became, like,
烹饪机器
this machine of cooking,
我超越了自己
and I was outperforming myself.
一天都没落下
I didn't miss one day.
并以优异成绩毕业 就像
I graduated with honors. It was, like...
这就是我所热爱的 做起来感觉很奇妙
It was what I liked, so I just felt incredible doing it.
两年前 安立奎邀请我和我妻子去厨房♥
Two years ago, Enrique invited my wife and I down to the kitchen.
他们在以最快的速度制♥作♥玉米面饼
They were making tortillas as fast as they could.
他给了我们每人一份
And he gave us each one...
撒了些盐 每个上面也挤了些青柠汁
and he sprinkled some salt and put a squeeze of lime on each one,
就卷起来 这样吃掉了
and we just rolled it up and ate it like that.
那是我这么多年吃过最美味的东西
It was one of the best things I had all year.
味道特别棒 非常美味
It had so much flavor, so much delicacy.
他提取出了精华
He did this kind of extraction,
释放出了纯粹的味道
of getting to the essence of flavor.
墨西哥菜的精髓和灵魂就是玉米
The heart and soul of Mexican cuisine is corn.
玉米种类没有上千 也上百了
There are hundreds of varieties of corn, if not thousands.
问题在于 考虑到效率利益
The problem is, in the interests of efficiency,
许多古老的传统种类都被淘汰了
many of the old traditional varieties are being phased out.
这些无疑是墨西哥菜的精髓所在
And these are absolutely essential to Mexican cuisine.
对我来说我用来
To me, the risk is losing
烹饪的那些奇妙食材都可能丢失
these amazing ingredients that I can cook with
然后只能找到一种玉米
and just being able to find one kind of corn.
转基因玉米
GMO corn,
是没法♥正♥常运行的
it's a consequence of the
农业系统的产物
agricultural system that is not working.
之前人们的后院里就种着玉米
Corn used to happen in the backyard of people's houses, no?
并不是单一作物
And it was not a monoculture.
属于被称为栽培地的耕作体系
It was part of a farming system called milpa.
栽培地属于前西班牙农业系统
Milpa is a pre-Hispanic system that,
开拓出来种植玉米
uh, was developed to grow corn...
在这个系统中
where, uh, there's a system
各种植物互利共存 共同影响
of plants that co-exist and work together.
玉米从土壤中吸收大量氮
So the corn will draw a lot of nitrogen from the soil,
豆类又会释放出去
and the beans will put it back.
毫无浪费 一切都被利用上了
There is no waste. Everything gets utilized.
种子蕴含许多智慧
Seeds carry a lot of knowledge.
每当想到玉米 就能想到玉米成熟
If you think about corn and you think about all the time
所花费的漫长时间
that it took to become corn,
遗憾的是 在过去六七十年里
it's just a pity that in the last 60, 70 years,
我们可能毁掉了所有这些智慧
we can destroy all that knowledge.
我一直相信美丽的东西
I've always believed that when something is beautiful,
都该加以呵护
you should take care of it.
农民可以利用栽培地养活不同的玉米
With milpa, farmers can keep those different kinds of corn alive.
我不想听着太诗意 我不相信这玩意儿
I don't wanna sound too poetic. I don't believe in that stuff.
但栽培地就像恩赐 大地给予的恩赐
But milpa is like a gift, a gift that the earth gives you.
玉米壳蛋白霜配甜玉米慕斯
去拿你的书包
Go get your backpacks.
-什么 -不要
- What? - No!
要 去把鞋穿上
Yes. And go put on your shoes.
不不不 不不不
No, no, no, no. No, no, no, no, no.
别人会以为你不想去上学