主厨的餐桌（2015）

The gelatin from the cooking liquid starts melting in my hand.
我意识到 由于我的体温 这种固态
I realize this solid is turning into a liquid
转化为了液态
because of my body temperature.
我便想到"我需要把它进行足够的冷却
In my head, I'm going, "I need to get that really cold
这样就可以包进面皮里了"
so that I can manipulate it into pasta."
固体在面皮中转化成液体
The solid becomes a liquid inside the pasta,
然后我们就得到了与众不同的新菜品
and now we got something completely different.
我做到了 把它放在我的砧板上
I made it, put it on my cutting board,
用勺子一压
and took a spoon and crushed it.
鸭油就喷薄而出
And the duck liquid just came spreading out.
它炸开了
It exploded.
那么这得是怎样的一种爆♥炸♥般的味道呢
And what is explosive flavor?
很明显必须得用松露
And it just became obvious that it had to be truffle.
于是我开始思考"这做法还能玩出什么花样呢"
And I started thinking, "What more can come of this?"
如果这就是你所做菜肴的特点
What if this was the nature of your cuisine...
这些有趣的花招是着眼于使人惊奇
were these interesting plays on surprise
以及口感和香味吗
and texture and aroma?
一位厨师看见我这么创作
One of the cooks saw me create it,
他走过来对我说"托马斯不会让你做那个的"
and he came up to me and said, "Thomas won't let you serve that."
这个需要定义
It became pretty clear to me
自己想要怎样去烹饪的想法变得愈加清晰
that I needed to define how I wanted to cook.
为了实现这个想法
In order for me to do that...
我必须得离开法式洗衣房♥餐厅
I had to leave The French Laundry.
我必须摆脱规则的束缚
I had to leave those confines of the rules.
黑松露大爆♥炸♥
在特里奥餐厅我第一份担任主厨
Trio was my first job where I was in charge.
在那里我真正迈出了一大步
That's where I really started to hit a stride,
也是在那里我遇见了尼克
and that's where I met Nick.
我妻子和我那天去特里奥餐厅吃饭
My wife and I went to dinner at Trio.
这间餐厅位于芝加哥郊区
This was in suburban Chicago.
突然间 这道
And all of a sudden, there was this,
尼克·可可纳斯
阿利诺餐厅共同持有者
令人惊艳 漂亮 优雅
like, amazing, beautiful, elegant
而且重要的是 非常美味的菜肴从厨房♥中端出
and, importantly, delicious food coming out of the kitchen.
我问服务员 "什么情况"
And I said to this waiter, "What's going on?"
他说"来了位在法式洗衣房♥餐厅工作过的大厨
He said, "We got this kid from The French Laundry,
他简直让我们大开眼界"
and he's blowing our minds."
那是当时世界上最好的餐厅
It was just the best restaurant in the world at the time,
只是无人知晓
and nobody knew it.
有天晚上我走出厨房♥询问他"用餐体验如何"
I went out there one evening and said, "How was everything?"
他看看我说道
He looked at me and he goes,
"如果你想开一间属于自己的餐厅的话
"If you ever want to open a restaurant of your own...
我愿意帮助你"
I would like to help you."
对于我来说 特里奥是一间各种条条框框
At Trio, I came into a preexisting restaurant
已经形成了的餐厅
that had these limitations.
而借此机会 我可以建立自己的风格
With this opportunity, I could establish my style.
四天之后 清晨五点半
Four days later, at 5:30 in the morning,
我收到了格兰特的邮件 文中写道
I got an email from Grant that said,
"如果你是认真的 我想要跟你谈谈"
"If you're serious, I'd like to talk to you about this."
我叫醒我的妻子 告诉她
I woke my wife up and said,
"我们将和格兰特一起开一家餐厅"
"We're gonna build a restaurant with Grant."
-开工吧 注意细节 -好的
- Let's go! Break it down. - Yeah!
我当时专注于寻找一个可以用来当标志的图标
I was fixated on finding a symbol that we could make a logo out of.
一天深夜上网搜索的时候
There was this late-night googling session,
我找到了这个叫阿利诺的符号♥
and found the... the alinea symbol...
然后我看了看定义
and then looked at the definition.
它的意义和我的理念完美契合
It was this perfect meaning.
一列满载新思维的列车就此出发
The beginning of a new train of thought.
这间餐厅的整体美食哲学
The whole philosophy of the restaurant
将会是 "这是新的...
is going to be, "This is new...
这也是新的 而这又是新的 还是新的"
and then it's new again. And it's new again. And it's new again."
咱们把反扒插在这吧 行吗
Here, let's plug the anti-griddle in over here, okay?
对于我来说 这就是
To me, it was like,
"这会是一年种的一个有趣的插曲
"Hey, this will be an interesting interlude for a year.
我将帮助这个神奇小子
I will help this really amazing guy
达成他的一个目标 这是非常棒的一件事"
achieve one of his goals, which is always a great thing."
但我逐渐意识到
But it became evident to me
这远比我想象的要重要的多
that it was more important than I thought it was.
从12岁左右起
He had genuinely believed
他就发自内心地相信
from the time he was, like, 12 years old
他就是要成为这样的人
this is what he was building up to be.
我们把员工集♥合♥到一起 我说
We gather the staff, and I say,
"请每个人都相信一个事实
"Everybody just needs to believe the fact...
那就是我们将要开一家
that we're about to open the best restaurant...
全国最好的餐厅
in the country.
除此之外都是失败"
And anything less will be a failure."
一周后 我们正式开业了
A week later, we opened.
第一晚 我们的餐厅就迎来了
First night, we got the most important food critics
全国最重要的美食评论家们
in the country... in the dining room.
开业第一晚
On night one.
阿利诺餐厅尽善尽美
科幻烹饪在现实的一次惊艳尝试
《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》 2005年5月11日 周三
开业两天后《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》就用
We got three pages in the New York Times
三个版面的篇幅报道了我们
two days after we opened.
下馆子美食专栏 《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》
科幻烹饪尝试走入现实
我接到了全国所有熟人的电♥话♥
I'm getting calls from everybody I know in the country.
"恭喜"
"Congratulations."
全美50佳餐厅
全世界最重要的美食评论家
The most important food critic in the world
全美50佳餐厅
给我打电♥话♥说
called me and said,
"我们将你们餐厅
"We've selected you
格兰特·阿茨在芝加哥阿利诺餐厅蔑视陈规
评为为全国最佳餐厅"
for the number one restaurant in the country."
这简直是工作 兴奋及创意的大爆发
It was an explosion of work and excitement and creativity.
一切都朝着好的方向在发展
Everything's just moving in the right direction.
我体会到了这种扑面而来的满足感
I had this overwhelming sense of gratification
因为我十岁以来的这个梦想
because this dream that was out there since I was ten
终于实现了
had been accomplished.
我还在特里奥餐厅工作时
When I was at Trio,
我注意到自己的舌头上有个小白点
I was noticing a little white dot on my tongue.
如果我吃了什么特别酸的东西或者喝了热咖啡
If I had something really acidic or if I drank hot coffee,
就会很疼
it was painful.
我去看了牙医 他们说
I went to the dentist and they said,
"你28岁了 一天工作18小时
"You're 28 years old, you work 18 hours a day,
压力太大 事业心太强
you're stressed, you're career-driven.
你这是自食其果"
You're biting your tongue."
在我和尼克共同打造阿利诺餐厅之时
During the period where Nick and I are building Alinea,
它仍困扰着我
it continued to be a problem.
我吃不下东西 喝不了谁 连说话都费力
I couldn't eat. I couldn't drink. I could barely talk.
但那段时间我对自己说
But during this whole time I'm going,
"我现在在打造自己的梦想"
"I'm creating my dream right now."
于是这件事就被我忽视了
And so, it just got pushed away...
直到病情严重到了
until the point where it got so bad...
你再也无法忽视其存在的地步
that you just couldn't ignore it anymore.
他当时看上去就像是个海♥洛♥因♥成瘾患者
He looked like a heroin addict or something like that.
他的头发开始变得稀疏
His hair had just started to get thin,
他 他看上去就像是个瘾君子
and he just... he looked like a drug addict.
而他其实一生中从未接触过任何毒品
And this is a guy who never did a drug in his life.
我说"哥们 你会把自己累垮的"
And I was like, "Dude, you're wearing yourself down."
他说"不 就是舌头的问题 我吃不好...
He's like, "No, it's this tongue thing. I can't eat well...
什么的 而且我..."
and all that. And I've got..."
他用口香糖盖在舌头上面
He took gum, and he was putting it over it.
我完全是把他拽到了抛光室
And I literally pulled him into our polishing room,
说"把舌头伸出来给我看看"
like... "Show me your tongue,"
听上去有点那什么 而他说"不
which, you know, sounds... And he was like, "No!
哥们 我为什么要给你看我的舌头"
Dude, why am I showing you my tongue?" You know?
我说"给我看看你的舌头"
I was like, "Let me see your tongue."
他给我看了 我说"天啊
He showed it to me and I was like, "Jesus Christ, like...
你得去看医生
You gotta go to a doctor.
别找牙医了 去看口腔外科吧"
Skip the dentist. Go to an oral surgeon."
我去了口腔外科 做了切片活检
I go to the oral surgeon and got a biopsy.
两天后 医院科室的秘书打来电♥话♥说
Two days later, the secretary at the office called me and said,