主厨的餐桌（2015）

经营阿利诺餐厅早期 我们就意识到
Early on in Alinea, we had this realization that...
可以从其他领域
there's other disciplines
汲取灵感
that we can draw on for inspiration.
我们会去画廊
We would go to art galleries
在那里你会看到这些巨幅艺术作品
and you would see these giant-scale pieces of art.
这种时候我总会说
And I would always say,
"我们何不用在那样的作品上摆盘呢"
"Why can't we plate on that?"
让我懊恼的是 作为主厨
It frustrated me that, as chefs,
我们的创作空间
we were limited to scale
其实是被餐具制♥造♥商束缚了
that was determined by plate manufacturers.
为什么就没有一块餐布是可以完全被吃掉的呢
Why not a tablecloth... that we can eat off of?
为什么一定要用叉子或者勺子就餐呢
Why do you have to eat with a fork or a spoon?
为什么食物一定要盛在盘子或者碗里呢
And why does it have to be served on a plate or in a bowl?
我们为什么不能做出一些创新呢
Why can't we come up with something new?
我们试图推♥翻♥餐厅的每一种元素
Every element of the restaurant we try to
并进行彻底地创新
break down and go,
"这就是它的最佳呈现方式了吗
"Is this the best way it could exist,
还有没有更好的诠释方法了"
or is there a better version?"
至于规则
Rules?
管他什么规则 随心所欲 无招胜有招
There are no rules. Do whatever you want.
主厨的餐桌
第二季第一集
芝加哥 | 伊利诺伊州
冷冻液氮
我学厨的时候
So when I was in culinary school,
格兰特被评为《美食与美酒》最佳新晋厨师
Grant was named one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs,
我的厨艺导师觉得"这简直就是胡扯"
and my chef instructor was like, "This is bullshit."
他被格兰特某一道菜的描述激得勃然大怒
He was so incensed by the description of one of Grant's dishes
弗朗西斯·拉姆
詹姆斯·比尔德奖获奖美食评论家
那段话是这么写的 你用沸水冲泡迷迭香
where you pour boiling water into
以使其香味在用餐时弥散席间
rosemary to get the rosemary scent while you eat.
他说"这是我听过的最做作的做法了
And he's like, "That's the most pretentious thing I ever heard.
如果你想用迷迭香
If you want rosemary,
把它作为调料加到菜里就行了"
you put it in the damn dish."
然而 这么多年白驹过隙
And you know, fast-forward however many years later,
现在我来阿利诺餐厅用餐
I'm at Alinea,
菜品被摆在枕头上呈到你面前
and you put a dish on a pillow,
香气从枕头中散发出来
and there's a scent coming out of the pillow,
每次你用餐刀切这道菜
and every time you cut into the dish,
都会从中飘出阵阵香气
and there's a little puff of the scent.
我就觉得"这是魔法 这简直是魔法"
And I'm like, "This is magic. This is magic."
阿利诺餐厅 芝加哥|伊利诺伊州
米其林三星
世界最佳餐厅第26名
2015年度圣培露世界50佳餐厅
我实在想不出还有其他哪家餐厅
I really can't think of another restaurant where,
是当我和别人分享用餐体验时
when I tell people about the experience of it,
连怎么进门都不想告诉他们的
I don't even wanna tell them how you get into the place.
因为就连步入阿利诺餐厅
Because even the experience of walking into Alinea
都让觉得人天旋地转 怪奇无比
is disorienting and weird
有点不舒服 但确实挺神奇的
and kind of uncomfortable, but kinda magical.
你推开门
You open the door
映入眼帘的是似乎长达100英尺的走廊
and it looks like a hallway that goes on for 100 feet.
可差不多刚走进去八步
And maybe eight steps into it,
走廊一侧的门就开了
a door to the side of the hallway just opens.
你就觉得"等等 剩下的走廊哪去了"
You're like, "Wait, where was the rest of the hallway?"
然后你定晴一看 才发现是视觉错觉
And you look, and it's an optical illusion.
但回想起来 也就是从这开始你意识到
But in retrospect, it's also this thing where you realize...
他们绝对会让你神魂颠倒
they're totally gonna mess with you.
他们绝对会颠覆你的思维
They're totally gonna screw with your brain.
而且不论你在那里待多久
And for ever-how-long you're there,
你永远都不会知道接下来会有什么惊喜
you really don't know what's gonna happen.
格兰特给他自己
The questions that Grant asks himself are so unlike
提出的问题
the questions that
跟我认识的任何其他主厨都不一样
any other chef that I know have asked themself.
他问自己的都是"我能让那东西漂起来吗"
He's asking himself questions like, "Can I make that float?"
或者"我能让它隐形吗"
or, "Can I make that invisible?"
又或是"我能在客人眼皮底下把食物藏起来吗"
or, "Can I hide this food in front of the guests?"
对于格兰特来说 创意就是明知不可能而为之
For Grant, creativity means doing something that's impossible,
进行别人从未见过的全新的创造
and has never been done and is new.
我觉得他们创立阿利诺餐厅时
I think really what they did when they built Alinea
是从基础开始着眼考虑的
was start from the very bottom and think about...
"顾客用餐体验的每个要素都是什么
"What is every element of a restaurant guest experience?
以及我们如何去对其加以改变"
And how can we change it?"
以此为基调他们达到了这样的境界
What they've done is
把餐厅里的一切看起开以及感觉起来
make something that looks and feels enough like a restaurant
都让你觉得自己是在用餐
for you to think that what you're doing is having dinner,
但实际上 你拥有的是一次可以自己决定
when in reality, you're having an experience
是在用餐还是身临剧院
that you can decide is dinner or theater,
或是尽情表演 或是接受治疗 亦或
or performance or therapy, or, you know...
你离开餐厅外的平凡走进这光怪陆离
whatever the hell you walk away
所感受到的或者想到的任何思绪的体验
from feeling and thinking about it.
我需要中♥央♥装饰品传菜员 12人传23道
But I need centerpiece runners, 12 by 23.
-这些玉米准备好了吗 -好了 主厨
- You ready for these corn? - Yes, Chef.
我要的传菜员呢
Okay, where's my runner?
开始摆放中♥央♥装饰品 主厨
Walking the centerpieces now, Chef.
我这就叫传菜员过来 主厨
I'll get you corn runner, Chef.
这个世界上的顶级厨师都知道
The leading chefs in the world know that
他们自己可以做出美味的佳肴
they can make delicious food.
所以 我们必须得更进一步
So, we have to take it a step further.
在阿利诺餐厅
At Alinea,
我们实际上是想尝试创造一种体验
we're actually trying to curate an experience.
我想让客人感到惊奇
I want the guest to have a sense of wonderment.
"接下来会是怎样呢"
"What's gonna happen next?"
而不是让他们觉得"我知道接下来会怎样"
They shouldn't go, "I know what this is gonna be like."
他们应该期待出乎意料之外的惊喜
They should expect the unexpected.
我觉得外界一直对我们都有一些误解
There's always been a bit of a misconception, I feel, that...
认为我们是在试管里和培养皿里培植食材
we are growing things in test tubes and petri dishes.
而实际上 作为负有责任感的厨师
Actually, we're sourcing
我们是在不停汲取中创新
as responsible chefs.
于是 我们从创造一道美妙的菜肴开始
And so, we're starting with a fantastic product,
不断对其进行改进和完善
and then we're twisting it along the way.
我们自己抛出一个个挑战并迎难而上
We throw out those challenges, where we go,
"我们有这么美好的食材
"We've got this beautiful thing.
怎样才能既保持它的完整性
How can you uphold this integrity,
又让其变成从未有人见过的其他存在形式呢"
but make it look like something... nobody's ever seen before?"
我们可以采取不同的切法
We can cut it different ways,
我们可以把它做成浓汤 可以搅拌发泡
we can purée it, we can foam it.
或者 我们可以让它改头换面
Or, we can make it look like something else.
所以核心思想就是
And so the idea was...
如果某样东西看着像是草莓
what if something looks like a strawberry
但实际上却是番茄呢
but it actually is a tomato?
以及让某样东西看着像是番茄
And have something that looks like a tomato,
但尝起来却是草莓
but it tastes like a strawberry.
它是番茄吗 它是草莓吗
Is it a tomato? Is it a strawberry?
这就是一种心理游戏
It's kind of a mind game.
我可以给你一片面包和一个番茄
I can give you a slice of bread and a tomato,
草莓还是番茄
你吃了会觉得"哇 真好吃"
and you could eat it and go, "Wow, it's delicious."
你还可以品尝一下这道"草莓还是番茄"
And you can have the tomato/strawberry course
配上裸麦粗面包屑 你就会觉得
with pumpernickel crumb, and you can go...
-新点单 两道 -"哇 真是太好吃了 而且
- Order in, two. -..."Wow, that's delicious, and...
这道菜真是太酷了"
that's really cool."
这才是我们要达到的目的 不是吗
That's what we have to do, right?
否则的话 我就给你一片面包和一个番茄
Otherwise, I just give you a slice of bread and a tomato,
你会觉得 "我凭什么花五百美元来吃这个呢"
and you go, "Why am I paying $500 for this?"
对吧
Right?
这是你点的面包
So this is a bread--
炸薯条 以及蒜茸蛋黄酱
French fries for you, garlic aioli,
-然后是两个普通套餐 -是我的吗
- then two of the regulars... - Me?
-你点的什么 -汉堡
- What did you get? - The hamburger.
我四岁半的时候
I was four and a half
我父母开了他们的第一家餐厅
when my mother and father got their first diner.
我在餐厅里度过的时间比家里还要多
I spent more time in a diner than I did in my actual house.
你想点什么