主厨的餐桌（2015）

I need to conquer the same thing in India.
橄榄对于西班牙人来说
Olive, for a Spanish,
相当于酸奶对于印度人的意义
is very equivalent to what is yogurt to Indian.
尝尝这个
Try this.
酸奶就是我们的母亲酱汁
Yogurt is our mother sauce.
就像日本的出汁 泰国的鱼露
It's like a dashi. It's like a fish sauce to Thai.
我们会把酸奶添加到甜品
It's... it's something that we use in our desserts,
菜肴 咖喱 和饭里面
to our courses, to our curries, to our rice,
甚至用来供奉神明
and we even offer to the gods.
酸奶在印度十分重要 充满象征意义
It's a very important, symbolic thing in India.
很不错
Very good, man.
当我见到球化橄榄时
When I saw the spherified olive,
心里便想道 "我何不做一道球化酸奶呢"
I thought, "Why don't I do the spherification of a yogurt?"
我到便利店买♥♥了酸奶
I went to 7-Eleven. I took the yogurt.
回家将褐藻胶溶入酸奶中 再加入少许盐
I made an alginate bath in my home, mixed a little bit of salt,
搅拌均匀 尝试做出球化酸奶
just whipped it, and started trying to do the spherification.
酸奶中含有的钙立刻和褐藻胶发生反应
The calcium from the yogurt immediately reacted with the alginate.
在烹调过程中形成一层胶质
It started cooking and they form a gel.
成形的胶囊将所有味道都封锁在里面
It encapsulates the whole flavor inside it.
你只要在五分钟后
And all you got to do, in five minutes,
把它捞起来 像个泡泡一样
is take it out, like a bubble,
然后用纯净水冲洗干净表面
and then wash it in clean water to clear the flavors.
再放到勺子上冷却
And put it on a spoon and chill it.
这就是这道菜的魅力
This was the seduction of the dish.
我知道自己有了革新印度料理的标志菜式
And I knew that I had my symbol of progressive Indian cuisine.
酸奶大爆♥炸♥
嘠贡 革新印度料理
我很兴奋
I was so excited.
我到这里来 我喜欢这个地方
I came here. I loved the place.
整个餐厅都是我亲自设计的
I planned the whole restaurant.
每一样都那么完美
Everything was perfect.
嘠贡
我们本来打算在四月开业
We were supposed to open in April.
结果遇上了曼谷的多事之秋
Then Bangkok had its own troubled times.
曼谷街头充斥着政♥治♥抗♥议♥示♥威♥活动
All Bangkok was under a political protest.
掌权的人和反对派发生冲突
The ones who were in power and the ones who were not in power,
影响了整个区域
the opposition, had taken all this whole area.
我们餐厅的工人也参与了抗♥议♥示♥威♥
The laborers in our restaurant were part of the protest.
有一天我回去时
One day, I came back here,
看到有人在制♥作♥火箭
saw people making rockets
用的是我买♥♥来装♥修♥用的五金
from hardware that I bought for the construction.
那些管子是从我餐厅拿的
The pipes were from my restaurant.
我还能闻到烧焦的橡胶味
And I could smell rubber being burned.
我的房♥子彻底遭到了破坏
My house was completely broken down.
我们的梦想破灭了
My dreams were just crushed.
我眼看就要失去一切
I was on the brink of losing everything.
我们等这些负面影响消退
We waited for the negativity to go away,
到九月才开业
and September we entered the restaurant.
我们本该在四月就开业 已经晚了四个月
We were supposed to open in April. We lost four months.
所以起初 我没有做我想做的菜式
So, initially, I didn't cook what I wanted to cook.
我制定了菜单 有烤鸡 咖喱 馕饼
I had my menu. Chicken tikka, curry, naan breads.
我什么都煮 因为我还没做到收支平衡
I cooked everything because I had not break even.
我面对的第一个挑战是回本
The first challenge I had was to get our money back.
我想要每晚都能安心入睡
I wanted to sleep peacefully every night,
知道自己不欠任何人
that I don't owe anyone.
然后发生了一场灾难
And then there was a disaster.
2月21日那天 我失去了我的哥哥
On the 21st of February, I lost my brother.
我十分震惊
I was shocked.
那段煎熬的日子
Those are tough days of your life where you...
是生活丢给你的考验
your commitment is being proved.
他去世了 而你却不能出席他的葬礼
He passes away and you can't attend his funeral.
你留在这里 因为你的餐厅正处于关键时期
You're back here because your restaurant is suffering.
我哥哥在离世前给每个人都留了言
My brother, he wrote messages for everyone before he goes.
给我的是 "我的明星弟弟
It says, "My celebrity brother...
别难过
don't feel sad.
在曼谷度过的时光宛如昨日
Time spent in Bangkok was so close.
我此生已无憾
I have done everything I wanted in life.
所以别悲伤 让我走吧
So let me go and be happy.
闯出名堂
Be famous.
让世界知道嘠贡是独一无二的"
Show the world that Gaggan is the only one."
那封信
And that letter...
给了我勇气 我四天后就回来做菜
gave me the strength to come back in four days and cook.
每天不停地做菜
Cook and cook every day.
当你被逼到角落时
You know, when you're pushed to a corner...
别无退路 犹如被茧困住
to the extreme corner, like a cocoon,
你就会打破桎梏 爆发出来
then you explode out of your shell.
五分钟 五分钟 大家休息五分钟
Five minutes! Five minutes! You have five minutes to wind down.
到那时 我已经无所畏惧
By that time, I became fearless.
开工 开工
Pack up, pack up.
我无所畏惧 因为我能做以前想做的事
Fearless because I could do what I wanted to do.
我无所畏惧 因为我想尝试一直想煮的料理
Fearless because I wanted to cook what I wanted.
那种感觉不可言喻
It's an incredible feeling.
如同破茧而出 蜕变成了蝴蝶
Like, out of your cocoon, and you're a butterfly.
有了翅膀 你想飞去哪里都可以
With your wings, you're flying wherever you want.
我能随心所欲地烹饪料理
I was cooking what I wanted to cook.
餐厅大获成功
And the restaurant here became very successful.
大家都很兴奋 在这个环境里
People were really excited. I mean, it was something totally new
这是个全新的尝试 这里有几百家印度餐厅
in an environment where we have hundreds of Indian restaurants
但他们都大同小异
and all of them more or less the same.
嘠贡干得很好
Gaggan nailed it.
亚洲50佳餐厅评选 他每年都上榜
In Asia's 50 Best, he was ranked every year.
他升到了第十名 然后第三名
He climbed to number ten, and then to number three.
于是两年之内
So in two years...
我们收支平衡了
we broke even.
我开始给家里寄钱
I start sending money home.
我妈妈说 "我终于有钱花了"
My mom was like, "Okay, finally, I have some money."
我给她买♥♥了一栋房♥子
I got a house for her.
她以我为傲
She was proud of me.
那段时期 我发现自己很快乐
That was a period when I realized... I was happy.
但我还有野心 想成为全印度最优秀的大厨
But there was an ambition to be the best chef in India...
我还没做到
which I'm not yet.
亚洲50佳餐厅
The Asia 50 Best.
颁奖礼是最令厨师激动的一晚
The award night is the most exciting thing in your life, as a chef,
因为主办方不会事先告诉你排名
because they don't tell you where you are, what is your ranking.
我的餐厅是不是在亚洲名列前茅呢
Am I among the best restaurants in Asia?
我去出席颁奖礼
I go to the awards.
我走进大厅时 有人走近我说
I was entering this hall, and somebody came and told me,
"你今年排名一定会下降
"You! Look, this year, you'll go down.
一定会下降 肯定下降
You'll go down. You'll go down.
等会就知道了 你去年排第三
You'll see. You're number three last year.
今年肯定跌出前三 没你的份"
This year you'll be out. You'll be no more."
我说 "我又没做对不起你的事
I said, "I have done nothing wrong to you.
你为什么那么生我的气"
Why are you so angry at me?"
我跟他说 "享受颁奖礼吧"
I said, "Enjoy the awards."
女士们 先生们
Ladies and gentlemen,
欢迎来到2015年亚洲50佳餐厅颁奖典礼
welcome to Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, 2015.
坐在我们旁边的是一对菲律宾夫妇
And right beside us was this Filipino couple.
那位女士问我 "你是做印度料理的吗"
The Filipino lady comes and asks me, "So you do Indian food?"
我回答 "是的" "我很喜欢吃咖喱"
I said, "Yeah." "I love curries."
我说 "我也喜欢"
I said, "I love, too." Okay.
颁奖典礼开始了 从后往前宣布排名
So the awards started. The countdown begins.
第50名
Number 50.
榜单第50名
...at number 50 on the list,
柬埔寨最佳餐厅是
the Best Restaurant in Cambodia is...
位于暹粒的丹姆纳克宫餐厅
Cuisine Wat Damnak from Siem Reap.
他在人群中起身 大家都为他鼓掌
So they stand up in the center and everybody claps for him.
他上台领奖 然后走回去
The guy brings the award. He goes back.
接着颁下一个 整个颁奖流程很快速
Move on. It's a very fast, rapid-fire award.
第48名是...
And at number 48...
第45名是...
Number 45...
第40名是...
And number 40...
40名的颁完了 我松了口气
Finished the 40s. I'm relaxed.