主厨的餐桌（2015）

我记得小时候
I remember when I was little
我会看着爸爸
I would watch my father.
他总是满怀激♥情♥
He was always very passionate.
总是兴奋而自得
Always happy and excited.
我喜欢爸爸做的事
I liked what my dad did.
我记得给炉子生火的情景
I remember lighting the pit.
记得树叶的气息
The smell of the leaves.
父亲会切开一个橙子...
My father would slice an orange...
"张嘴"
"Open your mouth!"
他会挤出橙汁
And he'd squeeze the orange.
我记得宰羊的场景
I remember the slaughter of the lambs.
我喜欢学切羊头 学剥皮
I liked learning to cut off their heads, to skin them.
这些于我而言 是无比美好的回忆
Those are some very beautiful memories for me.
我仍在传承这些习俗
I'm still rooted in those customs.
但我已离家多年
But it's been many years since I've been home.
移♥民♥都非常能体会这样的故事
Immigrants know this story all too well.
这是家的故事
It's a story of family.
分离的故事
Of separation.
这正是我想要改变的状况
And this is what I would like to change.
我不怕破而后立
I'm not afraid to break something to make it better.
烤羊是墨西哥中部非常传统的菜肴
Lamb barbacoa is a very traditional dish from Central Mexico.
制♥作♥难度极大
It's very difficult to prepare.
在墨西哥找到好烤羊已经很难了
It is difficult enough to find good barbacoa in Mexico.
所以 当"好胃口"列出
So, when Bon Apptite issued
全美十佳餐厅时
its ten best restaurants in America list
有一家费城烤羊餐厅上榜...
and there was a barbacoa restaurant in Philadelphia...
十分令人震惊
It's a crazy idea.
当你见到克里斯汀娜准备烤肉时
When you see Cristina preparing the barbacoa,
你会明白 她绝不是
you can see that this is not somebody
碰巧成为一个卖♥♥肉的屠宰手的
who's just happened upon a butcher life and sell meat,
她做这一行已经有了经年的历史
It's somebody who has been doing this for a long time.
她使用的是家族世代
She is using the same techniques
传承下来的烤肉技艺
that have been with her family for generations.
我吃过墨西哥卷饼
I've had tacos before,
我吃过很好吃的墨西哥卷饼
I've had good tacos before,
但是 能做出这么美味
but to produce a taco so delicious,
让我魂牵梦萦的墨西哥卷饼的 我的感觉就是 "哇哦"
it just bugs my mind. I'm like, "Wow!"
克里斯汀娜成功地将她的能量注入到她的食物中
Cristina has managed to infuse her energy into her food.
这才是她的写照
That's who she is.
但是 克里斯汀娜·马丁内兹不仅是个主厨
But Cristina Martinez is more than a chef.
克里斯汀娜是非法入境的
Cristina is undocumented.
克里斯汀娜得以改变自己的境遇
Cristina was able to change her circumstances
成为移♥民♥的发声者
and become an advocate for immigrants.
因为她公开自己的移♥民♥身份
By saying that she is an immigrant so publicly,
使得自己随时都可能身处险境
she is at risk all the time.
想象一下 你自己经营一家餐厅
Imagine owning your own restaurant
而你随时可以被逮捕
and at any moment you could be arrested,
你所努力的一切可能会从你身边被夺走
and everything you've worked for could be taken from you.
这就是克里斯汀娜的生活的现实状况
That's the reality of Cristina's life.
我家乡是墨西哥卡普胡克
My hometown is Capulhuac, Mexico.
以烤羊之都闻名
It is known as the capital of barbacoa.
烤羊的传统由来已久
Barbacoa is a tradition that began a long time ago.
我的家族从一开始就在制♥作♥
My family has made it from the beginning.
烤肉需要高超的技艺
Barbacoa is highly technique-driven.
我不知道是不是有很多人
I don't know if a lot people think about
这样看待墨西哥食物或者烤肉
Mexican food or barbacoa that way.
但是 确实是这样
But it is.
谈论美食的魔法和神秘确实很让人愉快
It's lovely to talk about the magic and mysticism of the food,
但是 制♥作♥这些美食却需要大量艰辛的工作
but it's a lot of hard word
需要投入大量的时间
and a lot of time is invested.
传统方法是在坑里烤
Traditionally, you make barbacoa in the pit.
用木炭烘烤是最好的烤羊方式
Cooking in coals is the best thing for food.
烤羊用的是羔羊肉
The barbacoa is made of lamb.
用橙和盐腌渍
Marinated with orange and salt.
羊肉 羊脚 羊肚 羊内脏 羊头
The meat, the feet, the stomach, the entrails, and the head.
全都不浪费
There is nothing that goes to waste.
橙子用于去除羊肉的水分
The orange is needed to remove the moisture from the lamb.
我们用龙舌兰叶
We use maguey leaves
给肉增加一点独一无二的苦味
to infuse it with a bitter flavor that cannot be duplicated.
盖住以后 魔法就开始酝酿了
You cover them, and then the magic begins.
等八个小时
You wait eight hours.
你可以看到烤羊在呼吸
You can see how the barbacoa is breathing.
蒸汽升起 味道好极了
Vapors rise, and the smell is incredible.
我从六岁就开始烤羊了
I've been cooking barbacoa since I was six years old.
直到现在 我还在烤羊的过程中感受到魔力
And still, when I'm making barbacoa, I feel something magical.
我由衷地高兴
I rejoice in my heart.
我们在天上的父
Our Father, who art in heaven,
愿人都尊您的名为圣 愿您的国降临
hallowed be thy name. Thy Kingdom come.
愿您的旨意行在地上 如同行在天上
Thy will be done, on Earth as it is in heaven.
我们日用的饮食 今日赐给我们 饶恕我们的罪过
Give us today our daily bread. Forgive our trespasses,
如同我们饶恕他人的罪过
as we also forgive those who trespass against us.
不要让我们陷入诱惑 救我们脱离罪恶
Do not let us fall into temptation. And deliver us from evil.
主 今天...
God, on this day...
我想感谢您
I want to thank you for
赐予的一切美好事物
all the wonderful things you have given me.
让我们的家人以我姐姐克里斯汀娜的名义团结起来
Having our family united in the name of my sister, Cristina.
她虽远在他方 却永远铭记于我们心中
Far from us, but we always carry her in our heart.
吃吧
Let's eat.
周末吃烤肉
Barbacoa on the weekends is
对墨西哥人而言是最棒的事
like the best thing that can happen to a Mexican.
可以吃点沙拉吗
Can I have some salsa?
没有威士忌
Whiskey is missing.
这是周六周日的特色菜
It's a very special dish that you have on Saturdays and Sundays.
与家人共聚
You get together with family.
他们把自己的时间空出来一起团聚
They clear their schedule to be together.
这是生活中重要的一部分
It's an important part of life.
我已经8年没见过家里人了
I have not seen my family for eight years.
我刚到费城时
When I arrived in Philadelphia,
感到悲痛万分 因为我找不到
I was very saddened that I couldn't find
有家乡味道的烤肉
this sense of home that is barbacoa.
所以现在 我正在树立一个榜样
So now, I am setting an example.
我相信食物的力量
I believe food has power.
我烹饪美食 辅之以热爱 力量 和热情
I make my food with love, with strength and with passion.
通过食物 我们找到家
Through food, we can find home.
我与四个兄弟姐妹一起成长
Growing up, I had four siblings.
我们总是一起干活
We were always working together.
但玩得很开心
But we had lots of fun.
我父母总是想给我们最好的
My parents always wanted the best for us.
我们家非常快乐
My family was very happy.
然后 17岁时 我结婚了
And then at 17, I got married.
搬到了丈夫家
And I moved to his house.
他们家也做烤肉
My husband's family also made barbacoa.
他们让我工作
They put me to work.
我总是忙着清理 清洁 再清洗
I was always busy cleaning, cleaning, cleaning.
一切都要干干净净 切好并储存好
Everything had to be cleaned, chopped and stored.
晚上10点半才能睡觉
I'd go to sleep at 10:30 at night.
但早上3点就必须起床
but at 3:00 in the morning, I'd have to get up
因为我要取出烤肉
because I'd have to remove the barbacoa.
那是我的工作
That was my job.
我像个雇员 而不是妻子
I was like an employee, not a wife.
我不能见我的家人
I wasn't allowed to see my family.
当我试着说我不喜欢这样时
When I tried to say that I did not like it,
他开始对我更糟
he started treating me so much worse.
他跟我说"你什么都做不好
He told me, "You're no good at anything.
你一文不值"
You're not worth anything."
他残忍♥地打我
He beat me brutally.
每天打我 反反复复
Hitting me every day. Over and over.
我尖叫
I'm screaming.
他妈妈说"我什么都听不到"
And his mother says, "I don't hear anything."
我再也不是以前的自己
I was never the same again.