主厨的餐桌（2015）

配鳟鱼干和腌万寿菊
现在它不完全只是冰岛的一道传统美食了
Not at all as the dish in Iceland,
碱灰鹌鹑蛋
配鳟鱼干和腌万寿菊
碱灰鹌鹑蛋
配鳟鱼干和腌万寿菊
但是当我发现这道菜的特殊时刻时
but I can clearly see the
碱灰鹌鹑蛋
配鳟鱼干和腌万寿菊
碱灰鹌鹑蛋
配鳟鱼干和腌万寿菊
但是当我发现这道菜的特殊时刻时
but I can clearly see the
我能清楚地看到这其中的联♥系♥
link to that particular moment when I found that.
碱灰鹌鹑蛋
配鳟鱼干和腌万寿菊
我能清楚地看到这其中的联♥系♥
link to that particular moment when I found that.
传统的美食想要存续
The only way for traditions in food to be kept alive
必须顺应时代的变化
is to let them adapt.
因为 如果你只是把它们保存在博物馆里
Because, if you keep them in museum,
它们终将消亡
they will eventually die out.
呃 我们今晚有14个人 12个人要留下来为早餐做准备
Uh, we have 14 tonight, and 12 is staying for breakfast.
分为两人四组 三人两组
It's two companies of four and three companies of two.
今天没有客人出现过敏现象
No allergies... today.
可以吗
Okay?
呃 今晚的菜单
The, uh, menu tonight.
有一道新菜 我们叫它粥
It's a new dish, and we call it V?lling.
我们要尽可能地多做
We're going to do as many
这些新菜
of these new dishes as we feel where we can.
但是没有办法做这些菜 我们将要去做之前做过的菜
But if we can't do them, we're going to do the old
因为我们之前已经练习过了
because we have prep for them.
就像麦克 他已经准备过大概有15道菜了
Look at Mike, he has, like, prepped for 15 services.
有时我会想一个问题 如果我们的烹饪是”季节性的“的话
I sometimes get the question if our cooking is seasonal.
这样真的非常有趣
And I think that is really intriguing,
因为在二月份这个季节有什么呢?
because what's seasonal here in February?
什么都没有 你知道 在这个季节 这里一片萧条
Nothing, you know, nothing grows here.
但是从菜单上看 我们依然有许多蔬菜可供应
But we have a lot of vegetables on the menu still.
尽管它们并不新鲜 而且是去年秋天采摘的蔬菜
And they're not fresh. They're from last autumn,
并以某种方式贮存下来
and they've been stored in some way,
这样对菜品来说就会增加其复杂的层次感
and that adds layers of complexity to the dishes.
当你处在冰天雪地 一片昏暗之地时
To choose to be hyper-seasonal, and hyper-local,
选择以超季节性 超本土
and just use what's there, when you're covered with
的料理方式 同时又仅仅是就地取材
and you're in pitch blackness,
对于一个大厨来说 这就是一个疯狂而极具马格斯风格的自杀式任务
is a kind of crazy, Magnus-style suicide mission for a chef.
我曾介绍过世界上一些储存食物的方式
I got an introduction to the world of preserving foods,
因为其中有一部分储存技术在我小的时候见识过
because some of the techniques were used when I grew up.
如果你想要在三月份吃到马铃薯
If you want to have potatoes in March,
那么 这时你最好在八月份就将它们收割起来
well, then you better harvest some potatoes in August
并且把采摘后的马铃薯放入你的地窖
and put them in your root cellar.
这都依赖于你储存的方式
That's just how you do it.
在某种程度上 这种方式战胜了季节所带来的局限性
In a way, it's about kind of defeating the seasons.
接着我了解许多能有效帮助我们餐厅
Then I saw that many of these old techniques
保存食物的古法 他们在保存食物的同时
for preserving food really worked well for the restaurant,
地窖|法韦肯
保存食物的古法 他们在保存食物的同时
for preserving food really worked well for the restaurant,
地窖|法韦肯
也呈现了一种与众不同的风格
because it produced a different style,
地窖|法韦肯
地窖|法韦肯
在食物中产生一种完全不同的... 感觉
a completely different kind of... something in the food.
地窖|法韦肯
地窖|法韦肯
在食物中产生一种完全不同的... 感觉
a completely different kind of... something in the food.
地窖|法韦肯
因此 我们着手开始搜寻
So we started just researching
地窖|法韦肯
更多关于储存食物的特殊技术
more and more about these particular techniques.
地窖|法韦肯
更多关于储存食物的特殊技术
more and more about these particular techniques.
腌渍肉类 例如 做成熟食
Curing meats, for example, like charcuterie.
采摘根类蔬菜 将它们藏于地窖中
Picking root vegetables and storing them in your root cellar.
用浓盐水腌渍黄瓜 或者
Brining cucumbers, or...
在秋天收集野味肉
harvesting game meat in
并把它封冻住 留作冬天使用
the autumn and freezing it for the winter.
这些无需花费脑力
It's kind of a no-brainer.
就像在说 好吧 我是被训练来料理食物的
It's like, "All right, so I'm trained to cook.
人类所实践过的这些方式事实上都非常有效
All these things that people did are actually really effective.
我可以用我这些旧日食材
I can take my old ingredients and...
完成一桌新日的料理
make them into a modern meal."
结果就是食物变得富有活力和精彩起来
The result is a food that's vital and wonderful,
并且之后去做这样的事便更加得心应手
and that he's then got the chops to do stuff with.
有趣的地方在于在餐厅去转化和使用这些
What's interesting is to interpret and to work with techniques
不怎么常见的技术
that aren't used commonly in restaurants,
并逐渐改善菜品
and to gradually improve dishes into
止于至善
as close to perfection that you can ever come.
配风味蘑菇
干酪派
-塔西 你在哪? -来了
- Tacy, where are you? -Yeah.
这些盘子要擦干净
There are plates to be cleaned here.
那里 海韦现在正在摆盘的那儿
There. The one Hewin is plating right now.
-米亚 你的手干净吗? -嗯
-Your hands nice and clean, Mia? -Yes.
看起来还不错 是吗?
That looks about right, right?
我开始上料理学校的时候
When I started cooking school,
我幻想着 你知道
the dream was to have, you know,
就是去开一家这个星球上最伟大的餐厅
the greatest restaurant on the planet.
我想了许多怎样去实现这个梦想的方案
How to achieve that was something that I thought a lot about.
麦克
Mikey.
从料理学校毕业后
After cooking school,
我去了一个
I went somewhere where I
我当时觉得会是好得多的地方
thought it was going to be so much better.
对我而言 那就是巴黎
And in my case, that was Paris.
你去法国学习料理
You go to France to be trained,
那里是一个拥有传统料理的国度
and there's a tradition of it,
很残酷 也很精彩
and it's brutal, and it's brilliant.
它可以假设你的料理配方
It presupposes a knowledge of your ingredients
并以一种别人从没试过的方式制♥作♥出来
and what to do with them that nobody else has.
这不意味着你要有创造力
It doesn't mean that you're gonna be creative,
不意味着你要了解
it doesn't mean you're gonna know...
那些你将要学习的新食谱
That you're gonna come up with new recipes.
不意味着你一定会成功
It doesn't mean you're gonna be a success,
但是你会拥有
but you have the tools.
你在其他地方无法获得的工具
And you can't get 'em anywhere else.
我刚到法国时 我是不会说法语的
When I went to France, the fact that I didn't speak French,
这导致我很难找到一份工作
it naturally led to difficulties finding a job.
我四处投简历
I handed out resumes
几乎巴黎的每个饭店我都投了简历 比如--
to every restaurant in Paris almost, like to--
所有的三星级饭店 所有的二星级饭店
All of the three stars, and all of the two stars,
还有许多一星级的 但是几乎没有给我回复的
and many of the one stars also, and few of them even called back.
那段日子真的非常 非常艰难
That was very, very difficult.
离我住所非常近的地方
Pretty close to where we lived,
那儿有一家饭店
there was this little place
是一星级的 叫做安坦思
that had one star then, called L'Astrance.
它的回复是我最后的生机
It was kind of a last call
在我想要放弃并回到瑞典之前
before giving up and going home to Sweden.
我走进去 和大厨帕斯卡打了个照面
I went in there, and I met the chef, Pascal.
我做了自我介绍 我把简历交给他看
I introduced myself, I handed him my CV,
然后我问他是否能给我一份工作
and I asked if he had a job for me.
然后... 他没有明确地说我被雇用了
And... he didn't have a job, basically.
但他也没有明确地说 "不 我们不会留下你"
But he didn't say specifically that, "No, you cannot be here."
他只是没有说 "好" 罢了
He just didn't say "Yes."
他的一字之差 以至于我
That was a mistake by him in the
第二天我又回到这餐厅找他 还有
sense that I went back there the day after also,
接下来两周 几乎每个早晨我都来找他
and almost every morning for a couple of weeks.
我估计他都厌烦我
I guess he grew tired of me
打扰到他清晨的雪茄时光了吧
disrupting his morning cigarettes.
所以他就请我到厨房♥里...
So he invited me into the kitchen...
然后我在那儿一呆就是几年
and I stayed there for a few years.
我在安坦思餐厅学到的最重要的事情就是
The most important thing that I learned from L'Astrance was
一盘菜永远比不过一盘创作
the dish will never be better than the produce.
在好和绝妙之间是有差别的
The difference between good and fantastic,
你会惊讶 许多厨师是看不见这区别的
you would be surprised how many chefs don't see that difference.
大家伙准备好了没? 好了
Are you guys ready for us? Yes.