主厨的餐桌（2015）

不仅仅是为了满足土壤的需要 也是为了满足我们自己的需要
not just to feed the soil, but also to feed us.
看起来好像不管你往哪走 黑麦都是很重要的作物
It seems like everywhere you turn, rye is such an important crop.
对的 没错
Yeah, that's right.
如果人们多吃一些黑麦
How much would it help you
多生产一些制品给市场
if people were eating more
这对你种植黑麦会有多大的帮助?
rye and creating more of a market for your rye?
会有很大帮助
It would help a lot.
我愿意给农民一些经济援助
I'd like to give an economy to the farmer.
我愿意激励农民
I'd like to give an incentive
来种植更多的轮作作物
to the farmer to grow more rotation crops.
在你们面前的是意大利肉汁烩饭类的食物 但不同于大米
In front of you is a risotto of sorts, but instead of rice,
- 你们有更多多样的豆类和谷类食物 - 谢谢
-you have a variety of legumes and grains. - Thank you.
而这就是具有挑战性的地方
And that's the challenge here.
我们如何把这些事情联♥系♥统一起来 我们怎样找到一种既能庆贺哈德逊大峡谷
How do we put the pieces together and celebrate the Hudson Valley
而又能支持良性的农业和良好的农事种植?
in a way that supports good agriculture and good farming?
所以这就是我们接下来要做的
So that's what we're after.
我希望想出一种方法能够建立人们的期许
I wanna think about ways to upend people's expectations
而这种走钢丝式的做法还是有点紧张
and there's a little bit of tension on the high wire act.
嘎嘎 我的花在哪
Gaga, where are my flowers?
我以前在一位厨师戴维 布莱手底下工作过
The chef I used to work for, David Bouley,
他总说 "如果你从没有失败的可能
always said, "If you're not about to maybe fall,
那么你就没有真正工作过
then you're not really working,
你没有真正地烹饪 你没有真正进行创作"
you're not really cooking, you're not really creating,"
而我对此深信不疑
and I believe in that.
快点 我们得动起来了!
Come on, we gotta move!
我喜欢紧张的氛围
I like the tension.
我认为紧张的氛围下
The tension is where I
你可以真正成就一些激动人心的东西
think you can really achieve some excitement.
够了 它放那就会煎着 哥们儿
That's it. That'll cook while it's sitting in there, man.
就像... 快点 哥们儿 你不用非得-- 就--
That's like... Come on, dude. You don't have to-- Just--
这样够了 熟了 熟了
That's enough. It's cooked. It's cooked.
当我20多岁的时候
When I was in my early 20s,
我得到了在一个巴黎叫
I got an internship at a
依热城♥堡♥餐厅的实习机会
restaurant called Michel Rostang in Paris,
而我最终被灌输了这种精确
and I ended up getting inculcated
和法式烹饪的思想
in this rigor and the history of French cooking
以及关于食物的传统和对品质的迷恋
and the tradition around food and the obsession with quality,
我觉得这就是我的想法开始萌生的时候
and that's when the bug, I think, hit.
准备两份农夫的盛宴
Ordering Farmer's Feasts for two.
两个西红柿 两只龙虾
Two tomatoes. Two lobster.
两只鸭子 最后 两只猪
Two duck. Ending, two pig.
好的!
Yes!
所有保守派法国大厨都脾气很大
All French chefs of the old school had huge tempers.
我从这些经历中学会了很多
I've adopted from those experiences,
但那种脾气 我并不引以为豪
a temper that I'm just not proud of at all.
这是什么?
What is this?
是我用鸡做的食物
Just the one I made with chicken.
好吧 算了吧 把它扔了 哥们儿
Well, forget it. Throw it away, man.
别再留恋了 全部都扔掉
Just forget it. Throw the whole thing away.
你知道 毫不留情地冲厨师叫
You know, to shout at cooks mercilessly,
并不是取得成功的好方法
it's not a good way to be successful.
我知道这个 但是我就是有这种脾气
I know that, but I do have a temper,
那种很差的脾气 而且会让我后悔的那种
and a really bad one and one that I regret.
它看起来就像 就像... 它看起来好像大便
It looks like, just... It looks like shit.
看看你♥他♥妈♥的状态
Look at your fucking station.
我可以很轻易地说 "那个 看看我过去的事情
It's easy for me to say, "Well, look at my history.
这就是我学的语言"
It's the language that I learnt."
从某种程度上来说 我是这么认为的
And to a certain extent, I believe that,
但我的确需要好好想想这个
but I really do have to think about this
因为我不想成为那种那种让人敬而远之
because I don't wanna be the kind of chef that intimidates
还举止很...
and acts in a way that's, uh...
你懂的 就是很让人讨厌的
you know, that's just abhorrent.
就是这样 让人讨厌的
That's all, it's just abhorrent.
所以... 我在努力改正
So... I'm working on it.
别把锅弄那么大声响 好么? 对 好的
Don't bang the pots, okay? Yeah, okay.
别他妈把锅弄那么大声响
Don't bang the fucking pots.
他去哪了?
Where is he?
准备贵宾套餐
Ordering VIP ticket.
两个西红柿 两只龙虾 两份鹅 两份奶油培根意大利面
Two tomato, two lobster, two goose, two carbonara,
两份羊羔肚 还有 最后 两份猪肉尝盘
two lamb belly, and, ending, two pig tasting.
好的!
Yes!
昨天晚上 一个大厨走进来 我们当时很忙
Last night, a chef came in. We were quite busy
我就走开去和他聊了一下
and I hopped off the line to talk with him for a second.
他就这样 "哇哦 兄弟 你还在做饭?"
He's like, "Wow, man. You still cook?"
当时没怎么想就回答说
The off-the-cuff response is,
"我当然在做饭 那就是大厨应该做的"
"Of course I'm cooking. That's what chefs do."
另一件事就是 "他是在说一种观点
And the other thing is like, "He had a point to make.
为什么我还没有建立起
Why haven't I set up two
两个可以真正他们自我运作的厨房♥?"
kitchens where they truly run on their own?"
我的意思是 迈克尔在这儿 还有亚当以及团队里的其它人
I mean, Michael here, along with Adam and the rest of the team,
他们都很棒
they're very good.
有着非凡的天分而且很有自我追求
Extraordinarily talented and driven themselves.
那我为什么还没有
So why is it that I haven't
想出一种程式让自己...
figured out a formula where I've extricated myself...
从每天在餐厅的严厉姿态中解脱出来?
from the daily rigors of the restaurant?
我觉得有一些东西在驱动着我
I think there's something there that's driving me.
这不仅仅是因为我想要推动这个团队
It's not just because I wanna drive the team.
这也很显然是满足我的一些需求
It also fulfills something in me that I need, apparently.
从我有两间很成功餐厅
There's one way to look at my life as really exemplary
的角度来看
in the sense that we have
我的生活可以说堪称典范
two restaurants that have been very successful,
但从另一个角度来看 它也很悲哀
and then there's another way to look at it. It's quite sad.
这份工作中的很多东西是为了尝试去填补某些心里的痛楚
A lot of this work is the attempt to fill some kind of sadness
或者一些在我生活中求而不得的东西
or something that I didn't have in my life that I wish I had.
填补空白
Filling a void.
我不知道一位母亲...
I don't know that a mother...
死在你那个年龄会最终让你永远觉得空虚
dying when you're that age ends up ever getting filled.
我们一直在做很多事情
Are we doing a lot of this
是不是因为我们的生活中有很多空白 而我们在试着弥补呢?
because we had this void in our life we're trying to make up for?
我们开了餐厅
We build a restaurant.
总有一种无意识的想法 比如
There's always this unconscious thought of, like,
"谁会来这间餐厅呢?"
"Who's gonna come into the restaurant?"
所以 这么说来 创建一间餐厅
So is building a restaurant
是一种带我们的妈妈重返餐桌的方式
a way to get our mother back to the table,
可以这么说吧
so to speak... you know?
那可能是一部分...
That could be part of it...
我们的生活不就是去填补一个又一个空白么?
Isn't our life one attempt to fill a void after another?
我不知道我是不是会成功 但我很努力地在尝试
I don't know if I'm succeeding or not, but I'm trying hard.
谁又知道这些东西
Who knows where this stuff
源于哪里又去向何方... 我不知道
originates and where it ends and... I don't know.
这儿有一辈子的时间来搞清楚
There's a lifetime to work out here.
蓝色山丘农场|伯克郡，马塞诸塞州
我大概13年前开始耕作
I started farming about 13 years ago.
我想知道更多关于食物和它从哪里来的事情
I wanted to know more about food and where it comes from.
所以我买♥♥了一些肉鸡 而且它在那儿长大的
So I bought some meat chickens and it sort of grew from there.
美国农民的平均年龄
The average age of the American
肖恩·斯特顿
农场主，蓝色山丘农场
美国农民的平均年龄
The average age of the American
是在60多岁 大概这个岁数
farmer is in the 60s or something like that,
肖恩·斯特顿
农场主，蓝色山丘农场
肖恩·斯特顿
农场主，蓝色山丘农场
这有点可笑
which is a little bit ridiculous.
肖恩·斯特顿
农场主，蓝色山丘农场
这有点可笑
which is a little bit ridiculous.
最艰难的挑战总是
The toughest challenge is always gonna be
怎样去做 什么是对的 还有 哪些好吃
how to do what feels right and what tastes good
这不仅仅是关于底线的问题
and isn't just about the bottom line.
我们有这样的很好的牛奶营运在进行
We have this great milking operation going,
然后突然 农场里出生了一些雄性牛
and suddenly, we have males born on the farm.
它们可能没弄懂你
They may go right past you.
现在 我知道什么是肉用小牛