主厨的餐桌（2015）

Once I met Massimo and we became friends and started hanging out,
我会约在周六
I would say, on a Saturday,
"嘿 你想和我去看画展吗？"
"Hey, do you wanna go see some galleries with me?"
他说"去画展是什么意思"
And he said, "What do you mean, 'go see galleries'?
你要做什么
What are we gonna do?"
我会带他去看李♥克♥特画展
I would take him to see a Richter show
他就会看着那些画作
and he would look at these paintings
他完全没有欣赏艺术的细胞
and he had no context for what they were or what they meant,
经常是 离开的时候 他说
and often times, he would leave saying,
"好吧 我看不懂 那都是什么"
"Well, I could do that. What is that about?"
我想把他带向世界
I wanted to bring him into this world
因为我觉得一定会有些东西
because I thought that there might be something
他会喜欢和感兴趣
that he found interesting and liked
而且我们有共同语言
and something that we could actually have in common.
是在1997年 我们那时在两年一次的威尼斯展览
It was 1997, we were at the Venice Biennial.
我们走进这座意大利展馆
Walked into the Italian pavilion
全意大利最伟大的艺术家都在这
where you have all these great Italian artists,
但都是老一辈的
but mostly from an older generation...
在亭子下
and in the rafters,
全是鸽子标本
there are all these taxidermy stuffed pigeons,
马西莫说"这些鸽子在干嘛"
and Massimo says, "What are these pigeons doing here?"
然后我们靠近看 我说
And we looked closer and I said,
"其实 那是一位艺术家
"Actually, that's an artist
在组装这些鸽子"
who made that installation of the pigeons."
我们看的越近
And the closer we looked,
就可以看到艺术家还为鸽子上色
you could see that he had also painted them,
其实是 往墙上
literally, pooping on the
还有其他艺术家的作品上排便
walls and on some of the other artists' artwork.
马西莫就好像是
Massimo was like,
"真是天才"
"That is genius!
那家伙太屌♥了
That guy is amazing!
那些鸽子 就像我
Those pigeons, that's like me.
我正试图改变意大利厨房♥
I'm trying to change the Italian kitchen,
但唯一能引起注意的方法是
but the only way I'm going to
我能否爬到顶端
get noticed is if I kind of go up in the rafters
从上面俯视 从某个层面上
and look from above and, in a way,
丑♥化♥在我之前的那一代
deface the generation that came before me.
只有追求那种
Only with that kind of
轰动效应和挑战
sensationalism and that kind of provocative attitude
我才能有所突破
am I gonna be able to break through
为想追求改变的这一代♥开♥辟一条道路"
and open up the doors for another generation of Italian kitchen."
于是他亲身感受那只鸽子的角色
So, he felt part pigeon in his own defiance
感受寻求突破的决心 做了些改变
and his own wanting to break through and do something different.
他说 "我就要做那只鸽子 我就是那只鸽子
He said, "I'm gonna be that pigeon. I'm gonna be up there.
我就要与传统背道而驰
I'm gonna be going against the grain
在波河里逆流而上
and swimming up the Po river and going against the current."
那时开始他真正意识到了艺术的价值
That's when art started to have real value for him.
这么多年以来 艺术
The artwork, over the years,
就这样
somehow kind of made its
走进了厨房♥
way through the back door into the kitchen
而且在他思索菜谱的过程中
and really had a great influence
起着重大影响
on the way he thought through the recipes.
弗朗席斯卡纳 开张时
When we open Francescana,
我先把浓汤饺子盛上去 这是一道经典菜
I would start serving tortellini in broth, the classic.
但是人们就像这样吃饺子
But people, they were eating that tortellino just like this,
"我在吃饺子
"I'm eating tortellini.
是啊 我可以随便去一个餐厅 或者小馆子 随便哪里
Yeah, I can go to the Trattoria or to Osteria, whatever,
反正我在吃饺子"
and I'm eating tortellini."
于是我说 "我们为什么不上一些刺♥激♥的呢?"
So I said, "Why don't we serve something very provocative?"
我盛上来的饺子只有六个 排在一排
I serve tortellini only with six tortellini in one line.
仿佛正在走进汤里
They were walking into the broth.
你能想象人们的表情吗 他们怎么看我们
Can you imagine what the locals, they were thinking about us?
他们想杀了我们
They want me dead.
你知道吗 "你不能毁了祖先的菜谱"
You know, "You cannot mess with Grandmother recipe!"
真正的意大利饺子是一匙十个
True tortellino is ten to a spoonful.
他一匙的饺子都没给我们
He wasn't even giving them a spoonful of food.
但同时 他说"这是六个饺子
But at the same time, he was saying, "Here are six tortellini.
意大利饺子 配浓汤
你得尊重每一个饺子"
You have to respect each one."
意大利饺子 配浓汤
意大利饺子 配浓汤
他们不明白我的用意
They didn't understand what I was doing.
意大利饺子 配浓汤
意大利饺子 配浓汤
你吃一个饺子时 大多数时间
If you eat a tortellino, most of the time,
意大利饺子 配浓汤
意大利饺子 配浓汤
你忽略了享受这道菜的过程
you lose yourself in the process of eating.
意大利饺子 配浓汤
你忽略了享受这道菜的过程
you lose yourself in the process of eating.
我认为
With this dish, I was saying
很多时候 比起传统菜肴
that tradition, most of the time,
菜肴的成分往往受到忽视
doesn't respect the ingredients.
某一段时间内 这六个饺子的留言
At one point, the rumors of the six tortellini,
在摩德纳传开了
they spread in Modena.
最有影响力的评论家
The most important local critic
来到
came to our...
我们的弗朗席斯卡纳,
...our Francescana,
他向我们询问那道菜
and he was asking for that plate.
第二天 当地报纸
The day after, on the local newspaper,
登上了我端着这道菜的照片 像这样
was the photograph of me presenting this plate that was like,
"你能相信他
"But can you believe he was
居然做出这种明胶似的六个饺子吗
serving six tortellini with this gelatin?"
这真是最差劲的描述
It was like the most horrible, horrible description.
我就像 "好啊 你喜欢刺♥激♥
I was like, "Okay, you like provocation
你就要承担责任
and you'll respond like that,
我要毁了你的生活"
I'm gonna make your life worse."
我就开始思考
I started thinking about...
如果重做烤宽面条肯定会更有趣
that could be very interesting, to rebuild a lasagna.
做一种不用生面团 非意大利面的千层面
Create a lasagna without the dough, without the pasta.
那种嘎吱声 味道和燃烧
That kind of crunchiness and flavor and burning,
就是千层面最棒的部分
it's the best part of the lasagna,
千层面的外观
the surface of lasagna.
我的观念就是
My idea is to serve this
让每个人都来尝尝
and make who comes to taste that corner,
并感受我和我兄弟的经历
to live the experience of me, my brothers,
艾米莉亚的每一个小孩都喜欢我们
every single child in Emilia-Romagna that loves that corner.
因为我们提供最棒的千层面
The best corner of a pan of lasagna.
酥脆

千层面
因为我们提供最棒的千层面
The best corner of a pan of lasagna.
酥脆

千层面
于是他们
So they tried to
酥脆

千层面
酥脆

千层面
想要将弗朗席斯卡纳除名
kill the name of Osteria Francescana,
因为他们觉得
because, I think...
我在侮辱创意
I was poisoning ideas,
我在毒害新一代
I was poisoning the new generation,
我在毁掉祖先的菜谱
I was poisoning the Grandmother recipes.
他只是想
What he was looking for, more than anything,
发起一次谈话
was to initiate a dialog
但却受到阻挠
and that was met with a lot of resistance.
头五六年里 万事艰难
The first five, six years was really, really, really tough.
马西莫的顾客从坎帕多
Massimo's customers from Trattoria del Campazzo
来到弗朗席斯卡纳
came to Osteria Francescana,
但都不想点马西莫发明的那道菜
but no one really wanted the plates that Massimo was serving.
在摩德纳这样的城市 大家还没有准备好
In a town like Modena, people weren't ready
人们并不一定喜欢这样的厨房♥
and people didn't necessarily want that kind of kitchen.
那种互动创造出很多能量
That interaction created a lot of energy.
摩擦和抱怨
The friction, complaining,
甚至是提出疑问 或者哄笑着离开餐馆
or even asking questions, or leaving the restaurant and laughing,
"哦 波图拉 瞧瞧他在干嘛"
"Oh, Bottura, look what he's doing,"
他恰恰需要这种激励