主厨的餐桌（2015）

which do nothing.
它们就待在那儿 同样消耗着大量的谷物
They just stand there, also eating vast amounts of grain
越长越快
to grow as quickly as
最后长到了一个很大的体格
possible so that they reach a really big size.
他们被喂成了
And they're fed into
一大坨肉怪兽
becoming these sort of living monsters of meat.
这是绝对毫无用处的
It's enormously ineffective.
我想正是这点激发了我
I think that that was kind of what triggered the idea
想要以奶牛肉为餐馆的原材料
of using the dairy cow in the restaurant.
因为将它们分开饲养看上去很愚蠢
Because it just seems stupid to do the way it's done now.
我们买♥♥的第一头奶牛 有着非常浓烈的味道
The first dairy cow that we bought, it had a depth of flavor
它与我之前用的普通牛肉不同
and things that I didn't find in ordinary beef.
事情就在这个时候开始变得非常有趣
And that was when it started to turn really interesting.
奶牛一生的绝大部分时间都在吃草
The dairy cow that has mostly eaten grass during its life
散养在一个大牧场
from a nice farm where they are allowed to pasture,
他们的肉会有更浓郁的味道 更多的质感
you will have much more flavor, you will have much more texture,
也会得到更多的天然脂肪
and you will also have much more natural marbling.
当你发现自己有了这个新的想法
It's very exciting when you kind of hit that moment
那一瞬间是很令人激动的
where you realize that you're onto something,
你意识到这个认知就是摆在那儿
when you realize that there is knowledge that's just
却没有人去用它
lying there in the open, it's just that no one is using it.
麦克? 嗯?
Mikey? Yes?
-可以端菜了 -好
-Pick up. -Yep.
能够真正了解创作 和技术
To create true understanding of produce and technique,
是个漫长的过程
it's a long process.
并且大部分的主厨并不把这一点当做自己的职责
And most chefs don't even think about that as the chef's job.
这没有什么建设性 实际上是非常懒
And that's not very constructive, it's actually very lazy.
我认为对任何高级餐厅来说
I think for any restaurant like this,
不仅是接受事物的本身很重要
it's very important to not just accept things the way they are,
而且实际上
but to actually...
接受让你着迷或者有兴趣的事物也很重要
Like, the things that you are intrigued by or interested in,
或者是进行实际的调查 去问问题
that you actually go and investigate.
比如 "这里有什么?" "为什么是这样的?"
Like, "What's there?" And, like, "Why?"
如果它不合理
And if it doesn't make sense,
怎样可以让它变得更好?
how can it transform to become greater?
-好 -你能把这里稍微清理一下吗?
- Yep. -Will you clean this up a little bit?
-好 好 当然 -谢谢
-Yeah, yeah, for sure. -Thank you.
乐意效劳
Gladly.
米亚 那个蘑菇酱... 嗯?
Mia, for the mushroom sauce... Yeah?
我们可以多加一点桦木糖浆进去
We can have a little bit more of this birch syrup in it,
或许还可以加一点盐
and maybe a little bit more salt.
-就一点点 -好的
-Just a little bit. -Yeah.
我会注意厨房♥里发生的每一件事
I notice everything that happens in the kitchen.
我会注意每个小细节
I notice every little single
因为我在这里就是要提高它的
details because I was there to develop them.
营业后例会|法韦肯
大体上 非常棒
Overall, pretty good.
营业后例会|法韦肯
营业后例会|法韦肯
不是什么魔力之夜
It wasn't one of those fantastic evenings.
营业后例会|法韦肯
就是一个普普通通的夜晚
It was just a very ordinary evening.
营业后例会|法韦肯
营业后例会|法韦肯
就是一个普普通通的夜晚
It was just a very ordinary evening.
营业后例会|法韦肯
就是一个普普通通的夜晚
It was just a very ordinary evening.
营业后例会|法韦肯
营业后例会|法韦肯
但是
But, like, good.
营业后例会|法韦肯
营业后例会|法韦肯
呃... 这个 我不喜欢
Um... this, I don't like.
营业后例会|法韦肯
呃... 这个 我不喜欢
Um... this, I don't like.
没有人问过我能不能在那里切胡萝卜片
No one asked me if it was fine to do carrot flakes there.
啊 嘉士伯 我不知道你是不是觉得可行
Uh, I don't know, Jesper, if you okayed it,
但我觉得这个举动绝对太疯狂
but I think it's an absolutely crazy decision because it's like,
你怎么能想出
how can you come up with
让腌制的咸味
the idea to exchange the
和新鲜的胡萝卜味道混合的想法?
flavor of cured saltiness with fresh carrots?
这样那我们干嘛不直接拿一块腌制好的胡萝卜呢?
Like, why don't we take a piece of pickled carrot then?
不同于其他有创意的职业
Unlike other creative professions,
在高级餐厅烹饪
cooking at a very high level in a restaurant,
意味着你没有第二次机会
it means that you get no second chances.
好 第一个托盘 最重要的
Okay, first tray, prioritized.
我要来点蟹肉咯
I've got some crab coming.
我不能走到我的顾客面前说
I can't go to my customer and say that, you know,
"今天的蟹肉不怎么好 但是很抱歉
"Crab wasn't very good today, but, you know, sorry about that.
要是你想吃好的蟹肉 那就下次来吧"
You'll have to come back here to have that crab again."
行了 准备好端起
Okay, be ready to pick up.
今天的蟹肉非常漂亮
Very nice looking, the crab today.
第三个托盘中最后两个盘子里的奶油
A little bit too much cream on the two last plates,
稍微有点多了 对
on the third tray. Yeah.
我是说 一切都必须完美
I mean, everything has to be perfect.
米亚·博尔兰德
厨师，法韦肯
我是说 一切都必须完美
I mean, everything has to be perfect.
米亚·博尔兰德
厨师，法韦肯
只要你把你的工作做好 这也不算太糟
As long as you do your job properly, it's not too bad.
米亚·博尔兰德
厨师，法韦肯
只要你把你的工作做好 这也不算太糟
As long as you do your job properly, it's not too bad.
-这个可以减半 -好的
-I think half of it then. -Yeah?
-继续做剩下的 -好
-And then continue cooking the rest. -Yeah.
在法韦肯 厨房♥的结构
The way the kitchen is kind of structured at F?viken,
是有一点儿反传统的
it's a little bit backwards.
在很多大饭店
In many big restaurants,
有一帮实习生在干择菜之类的活儿
there is a bunch of trainees doing all kinds of leaf picking,
在厨房♥准备区
and then the mise en place
也是层层递进的
gets filtered up through layers of people.
结果呢 就是
Finally it ends up on the
像我这样的厨师站在那里做最后的摆盘装饰
pass where people like me stand and plate.
可是在原始阶段的烹调却没有保障
So there is no accountability for the lower end of the hierarchy.
这奶油非常漂亮
Very nice looking, the cream.
你已经开始切了吗?
Have you started cutting?
-开始切了 麦克! -是
-Start cutting. Mikey! - Yes.
加油
Come on.
大家做得真棒
Fantastic cooking, people.
在这里 我们烹饪时的情况完全不同
And then here, we've done it the other way around.
我们会有一个人
So we'll have one person
来宣布事宜以及控制上菜的事
announcing everything and controlling the service,
我们还会让人跟他一起
then we'll have, on the pass with him,
我们让实习生
we'll have the trainees,
那群最没有经验的人在准备区
the people that are the least experienced.
我们会让最有
And we'll have the most
经验的厨师在后面 进行烹饪
experienced cooks in the back, actually cooking.
这种方法的好处在于
It's much better to have
摒除了全面层级制度可能忽视的问题
no filters until they arrive on the pass,
让大家一开始就要学着
and then having actually doing
把自己的职务做到完美
their things perfectly from the beginning instead.
现在?
Now?
看起来好湿 是吧?
我会... 呃... 解决它
你是不是真空保存了?
永远不要真空保存肉
我们之前不是谈过这个问题 不是吗?
彼得?
你有没有一个是没真空保存的?
没有
应该放在这儿 你知道的 在格子柜上 对吧?
对
马格斯父母的家|奥斯塔思德，瑞典
现在看这些照片真好玩 时光飞逝呀
马格斯父母的家|奥斯塔思德，瑞典
马格斯父母的家|奥斯塔思德，瑞典
没错
马格斯父母的家|奥斯塔思德，瑞典
没错
这些照片拍得挺完美的
我们正在雅尔博餐厅吃自助餐
1980年代经典的瑞典圣诞大餐
是的
我从来没想过在我长大之后
I never thought I was gonna live here
还会居住在这里 我喜欢-- 不对
when I'd grown up. I like-- No.
我不应该说我喜欢
I shouldn't say that I liked
从小到大居住在这里 因为事实上我并不喜欢这里
living here growing up, because I didn't.
额...
Uh...
我是勉强地居住在这里
I tolerated living here.