主厨的餐桌（2015）

像大多数雅姆兰的小孩一样 我在大自然中成长
Like most kids in J?mtland, I grew up close to nature.
总是在野外捕猎 钓鱼
Being outside, hunting, fishing,
奇美的自然风光随处可见
surrounded by fantastic natural beauty.
但当你日日身在其中
When you're exposed to it every day,
你会开始对这一切视若无睹
you get blind to that after a while.
我从没想过自己有可能在这里真正地
I never thought it was going to be possible to actually
定居下来 并且做着一份
live life here and work with
自己选择的工作
the profession that I had chosen,
做高端的 餐饮工作
a very, very high-end, very ambitious cooking.
要知道这里以前并没有什么高级餐厅
'Cause there were no such restaurants here.
和其他年轻和富有雄心的厨师们一样
I did what, I think, many other young, ambitious chefs do.
我那时搬出了父母的家 去了烹调学校学习
I moved out of my parents' house and went to cooking school.
我们坐在那 马格斯进来问我们
昂德和安琪·尼尔森
马格斯的父母
我们坐在那 马格斯进来问我们
昂德和安琪·尼尔森
马格斯的父母
可不可以让他去阿尔的料理学校学习
昂德和安琪·尼尔森
马格斯的父母
可不可以让他去阿尔的料理学校学习
我们告诉他
这里正好有间不错的料理学校
他说 但是我想要去的那间学校是最好的
而且只想去那间学校
所以...
阿尔料理学校|阿尔，瑞典
那这就是我们所谓的 "名人堂"
So this is our hall of fame, we call it.
阿尔料理学校|阿尔，瑞典
那这就是我们所谓的 "名人堂"
So this is our hall of fame, we call it.
主要介绍那些取得特殊成就的学生
It's students that's done something special.
他在这里 马格斯
Here's Magnus. Magnus.
他来这里的第一天时还只是一个瘦小的男孩
The first day he came here, he was so small and tiny,
而且 你知道的 他有点害羞
and, you know, a little bit shy.
罗塔·阿斯芙姆
马格斯在烹饪学校的导师
其实他只是在静静等待着蜕变
And he was just waiting to climb out of himself.
罗塔·阿斯芙姆
马格斯在烹饪学校的导师
其实他只是在静静等待着蜕变
And he was just waiting to climb out of himself.
他是一个发明家 他想要尝试出不同的调味方式
He was an inventor. He wanted to try out spices.
原本应该是咸的 他却弄成甜的
Sweet when it was supposed to have salt
而原本应该是甜的 他却调成酸的
and sour when it was supposed to be sugar instead.
任其自♥由♥发挥
There was no limit at all.
但我们只是说 哦 好吧 马格斯 等一下 再等一下吧
And we just, "Oh, well, Magnus, wait, wait a bit.
你真的确定要这样做吗? "哦 试一下嘛" " 好吧"
Are you sure about that?" "Oh, let's try it." "Okay."
如果给他无聊 墨守成规的食谱
When he was given boring, traditional recipes,
你不能改变那些食谱 因为人们就是这样写的
you can't change them because the recipe says like this.
但他一点也不喜欢因为他--
He didn't like that at all because he was--
那些墨守成规的食谱使他窒息 你能看出 那些食谱真的让他喘不过气来
It was choking him and you could see it, it was choking him.
和他一起去学校的人说
The people who went to school with him, they say,
哦 马格斯 我绝不会想到
"Oh, Magnus, I wouldn't-- I would never have thought
他愿意费那么大劲来做一个法韦肯这样的餐馆
that he should go all the way to make a place like F?viken.
他为什么能在山的另一头如此成功?
How come he succeed on the other side of the mountain?
什么是他做得到 而我们不能的呢?
What is he doing so well that we don't do?
他知道什么我们不知道的呢?
What does he know that we don't know?"
答案在于 那些人依照食谱做菜
The thing is, they read cookbooks.
但马格斯不是 他从不看食谱 他创造食谱
But Magnus, he doesn't read cookbooks. He creates.
酒渍 海扇
对于大部分事情来说 "新" 并不总是好的
New is not always better, as with almost anything.
但是饮食文化有趣的部分
But what's interesting with food culture,
同时也有点令人恐惧的部分的
and also a little bit scary,
是过了这个村
is that the second you stop practicing,
就没有这个店了
it tends to die out really quickly.
只需要经过一代人
After one generation,
用双手去亲自♥制♥作的技能
you will have no one left
就可能消失
who knows how to do something with their hand.
经过三代之后
And after three generations,
唯一剩下的也只有照片 或者是类似的东西
the only thing that's left is the photos or something like that.
你没有办法回到过去 去了解
And you can't go back and understand
1000年前的人们是怎样料理食物的
how someone did something 1,000 years ago with food
你能看到
like you can with
雕刻 或画作 或者随便什么得以存留的东西
sculpture or painting or whatever it might be.
你能真正地看到一块雕刻于古希腊时代的大理石板
You can actually look at a marble block carved in ancient Greece,
并且你可以看出它是怎样被制♥作♥的
and you can see how it was done.
但是没有任何来自古希腊的腌制火腿可以
But there aren't any cured hams from ancient Greece
配面饼
格罗斯
蘑菇
但是没有任何来自古希腊的腌制火腿可以
But there aren't any cured hams from ancient Greece
格罗斯
蘑菇
配面饼
保存下来以供我们研究它是怎样被加工完成的
that are still there to show us how that was done.
格罗斯
蘑菇
配面饼
格罗斯
蘑菇
配面饼
这就是饮食文化的特殊之处
It makes food culture very special,
格罗斯
蘑菇
配面饼
这就是饮食文化的特殊之处
It makes food culture very special,
因为它也是我们所拥有的
because it is also the most
最重要的文化现象
important cultural manifestation that we have,
因为人人都要吃
'cause we all have to eat.
对于大多数人来说 北欧饮食只有
For most people, I think that Nordic food is,
像渍鲑鱼片和鲱鱼
it's like gravlax and herrings,
还有露馅的三明治以及其他的一些类似的食物
and open-faced sandwiches and stuff like that, which it is.
但是那只是我们饮食文化中非常小的一部分
But that's a tiny, tiny, tiny, little part.
有许多被流传下来的料理方式
A lot of the things that are passed,
它们有的变得愈加出挑 有的则逐渐被遗忘
they are becoming extinct or getting forgotten.
我的工作就是用一种人们可以真正理解的方式
My job is to keep the original alive
去保存和还原那些料理方式
in a way that people can actually understand.
我的出版商问我 可不可以从家庭料理的角度
I was asked by my publisher if I couldn't do...
去写一些有关于北欧饮食的东西
a documentation on Nordic food, from a home perspective.
比如人们在他们的日常家庭生活中
What people actually eat in
都吃些什么 为什么会有这样的饮食方式 这种饮食方式从何而来
their homes and why, and where it comes from.
地理上的范围
It's a region that spans from
是从芬兰以东到格陵兰以西
Finland in the east to Greenland in the west,
在这一范围之中其实存在巨大的多样性
and there's so much diversity and so many different things.
于是我开始为我的书做调查
I started doing research for the book.
转遍了整个北欧地区
So I traveled around in the Nordic region
采访调查 研究食谱
to interview people and to search for recipes,
在饮食领域里发现和记录
and to find and document
各种和饮食相关的文化现象
cultural occurrences within the realm of food.
旅行中我发现许多
There are so many things that I found during these trips
我之前不知道的事情
that I didn't know existed,
但却在一定程度上影响了我现在在餐厅所做的工作
that has in some way influenced what we do now in the restaurant.
大厨的餐桌 第六集
但却在一定程度上影响了我现在在餐厅所做的工作
that has in some way influenced what we do now in the restaurant.
但却在一定程度上影响了我现在在餐厅所做的工作
that has in some way influenced what we do now in the restaurant.
大厨的餐桌 第六集
大厨的餐桌 第六集
我们现在有一道菜
There's one dish that we do,
大厨的餐桌 第六集
就是把一个小鹌鹑蛋放在灰中翻滚
which is a little quail's egg rolled in ash.
大厨的餐桌 第六集
大厨的餐桌 第六集
这就是我在冰岛发现的制♥作♥方法
And that comes from something that I found on Iceland.
大厨的餐桌 第六集
大厨的餐桌 第六集
这就是我在冰岛发现的制♥作♥方法
And that comes from something that I found on Iceland.
这就是我在冰岛发现的制♥作♥方法
And that comes from something that I found on Iceland.
这就是我在冰岛发现的制♥作♥方法
And that comes from something that I found on Iceland.
在春季的时候 他们会把收集到的野鸭蛋
In the spring, they will take wild ducks' eggs
裹上灰并放到盒子里
and they will put them in boxes, which they fill with ash.
这些烟灰是他们从传统的烟熏房♥
The ashes, they get from cleaning
的底部清出来的
out the bottom of the traditional smoke houses,
燃料则来源于一种晒干的羊屎
which are fueled with sheep's shit, dried sheep's shit.
这种碱性灰能够用来腌蛋
And this sort of alkaline ash, it cures the egg a bit.
有点像亚洲某些地方制♥作♥的皮蛋
Like a 1,000-year-old egg would have been done in Asia somewhere.
这实在是太令人惊奇了
And it was just so fascinating.
他们依然保持着这些传统
They still maintained these traditions.
因此我到了那 发现了它
So I went there, I found it,
我去尝这道菜 并把记录下来留作写书之用
I ate it, and documented it for the book.
并在两年之后把它放入我的菜单中
And two years later, ended up on the menu.
碱灰鹌鹑蛋
配鳟鱼干和腌万寿菊
并在两年之后把它放入我的菜单中
And two years later, ended up on the menu.
碱灰鹌鹑蛋