主厨的餐桌（2015）

and one that was sort of redefining how we think about bread.
我想"如果我要学烤面包
I figured, "If I'm gonna learn how to bake bread,
那我就去最好的地方"
I wanna go with the best."
我开车到洛杉矶
Drove down to LA and showed
然后出现在她门前 请求她给我份工作
up at her door and just begged her for a job,
我就是那样进去的
and that's how I got in there.
但我真的一点都没有天赋
But I was really not talented at all.
我不是个好的烘焙师 有这么一个大客户
I was not a good baker, and there was a big account,
我搅拌了1300磅的迷迭香棉团
and I mixed 1,300 pounds of rosemary dough.
但就在那天
But for this particular day,
我忘记在材料中加入盐了
I forgot to add the salt in the recipe.
我还记得看着
I just remember looking
烤箱里的面包一点点膨胀
into the ovens and we saw this bread going up,
然后就像是音乐会中乐声渐强或者其他的什么类比那样
and then just like as if the crescendo of a concert or whatever,
突然它们都塌下去了 变得像披萨一样...
they all fell flat like pizza...
就在那刹那 我在想"我的天呐"
and just in that one moment, I was like, "Jesus, man."
南希就在那 正在和经理说话
Nancy was there, talking to her manager,
她说"我不能让这个孩子毁了我的生意"
and she was just like, "I can't let this kid ruin my business."
那是我第一次被炒鱿鱼
It was my first time I ever got fired from a job,
所以通过那一次我收获颇丰
so I learned a lot through that.
当南希 西弗敦开除他的时候 对他来说成为了挑战
When Nancy Silverton fired him, it became a challenge.
"让我想想怎样做出最好的面包"
"Let me figure out how to make the best bread."
这个太棒了
This one is amazing.
所以...
So...
问一问 太他妈棒了我是说 太棒了
Smell that. Fucking beautiful. I mean, beautiful.
当我们想到西方文明
When we think of Western civilization,
你会发现它是源于小麦的
you start to realize it was built from wheat.
谷物占据了农业的65%
Grains represent 65% of our agriculture.
蔬菜和水果占6%
Vegetables and fruits are about 6%.
我们吃小麦吃的比什么都多
We eat more wheat than just about anything.
但问题在于我们吃的不是真正的全麦
The problem is that we don't eat true, whole wheat.
我们吃的是无生命的去壳的麦子
We eat wheat that's dead and denuded.
所以它能保存很久 能够长时间贮存
So it'll last. It's shelf stable.
它肯定没有味道的一部分原因
Part of the reason that it has absolutely no flavor
是因为农业企业追求的是
is because agri-business is looking for crops
大厨的餐桌 第二集
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
是因为农业企业追求的是
is because agri-business is looking for crops
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
是因为农业企业追求的是
is because agri-business is looking for crops
大厨的餐桌 第二集
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
大厨的餐桌 第二集
能够在运送过程中长♥期♥保存
that can last a long time in
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
大厨的餐桌 第二集
或者能在你的冰箱中长♥期♥保存的作物
travel or last a long time in your refrigerator.
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
大厨的餐桌 第二集
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
大厨的餐桌 第二集
他们不追求味道
They're not looking for flavor.
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
大厨的餐桌 第二集
他们不追求营养
They're not looking for nutrition.
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
大厨的餐桌 第二集
大厨的餐桌 第二集
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
他们不追求营养
They're not looking for nutrition.
m 16 2 l 3 8 l 12 8 l 12 6 l 16 6 m 33 -5 l 37 8 l 42 8 m 29 -12 l 21 -12 l 24 -10 l 24 6 l 23 8 l 30 8 l 25 -5 l 27 -10 l 31 -10 m -15 -5 l -23 8 l -7 8 m -9 -12 l 12 -12 l 2 -8 l 2 -4 l 13 -9 l 15 -7 l 2 -1 l 2 2 l 16 -4 l 16 -2 l 2 4 l 1 6 m -11 -24 l 15 -24 l 15 -22 l 1 -22 l 1 -16 l 11 -16 l 11 -19 l 25 -19 l 28 -15 l -11 -15 m -20 -22 l -24 -15 l -20 -15 m -26 -12 l -21 -12 l -32 6 l -33 6 l -33 8 l -39 8
他们不追求营养
They're not looking for nutrition.
他们不追求营养
They're not looking for nutrition.
真正不幸的是 在这一切的过程中
The real disaster is that in all of this,
我们失去了小麦的味道 还遗失了所有对健康有益的部分
we lost the taste of wheat and we lost all the health benefits,
而就我们大量食用的东西来说
and for something that we eat so much of,
这的的确确是一场真正的不幸灾难
it's really a true disaster.
如果我们要改变食品体系
If we're gonna change the food system,
我们就必须要改变我们种植和食用小麦的方式
we have to change how we grow and consume wheat.
我真的从来没见过像丹一样的厨师
I've never really met another chef like Dan.
他简直是在永无止境地思考
He's just endlessly thoughtful.
不断的往回追溯 追溯 追溯 再追溯
Taking it back and back and back and back
直到他追溯回土壤中去
until he gets to the soil.
湖景有机谷物农场|彭杨，纽约州
直到他追溯回土壤中去
until he gets to the soil.
湖景有机谷物农场|彭杨，纽约州
如果你把土壤想象成一个银行账户
If you think of soil like a bank account,
湖景有机谷物农场|彭杨，纽约州
湖景有机谷物农场|彭杨，纽约州
我们喜爱的很多作物
many of the crops that we love
湖景有机谷物农场|彭杨，纽约州
都需要极其大量的土壤肥力
require a tremendous amount of soil fertility,
湖景有机谷物农场|彭杨，纽约州
湖景有机谷物农场|彭杨，纽约州
这也就是说 它们需要从银行中进行大笔的提款
which is to say they require a big withdrawal from the bank.
湖景有机谷物农场|彭杨，纽约州
这也就是说 它们需要从银行中进行大笔的提款
which is to say they require a big withdrawal from the bank.
每一次我们进食 我们都是在从这个共有银行中进行提款
Every time we eat, we are withdrawing from a communal bank.
问题是
The question is, "How do
"你怎样能把钱存入这个银行账户?"
you make a deposit into this bank account?"
这两株是黑麦 这个原来是黑小麦(小麦与黑麦的杂交麦)
These two are rye. This was triticale.
你需要把肥力归还回土壤中
You need to return fertility
来得到其它的作物
back to the soil to get another crop.
所以你不能指望着说
So you can't count on the idea
土地会源源不断地让你得到收成
that soil will continue to give you a harvest,
因为它不会
'cause it won't,
除非你使用化学试剂
unless you're using chemicals
就像大部分传统的美国农业那样
like most conventional American agriculture.
有机农场的责任之一
One of the responsibilities of organic farming
就是用非化学试剂的方式归还肥力
is to return fertility without using chemicals.
其实我盟刚刚跨过了这儿的一些东西
Actually, we just stepped over something here.
红酸模(北欧阔叶野草，用以揉擦被荨麻刺伤的皮肤，可止痛)
Red Dock.
红酸模意味着
Red Dock means that there is
这儿的地标缺少可溶性钙
a shortage of soluble calcium in the surface.
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
这儿的地标缺少可溶性钙
a shortage of soluble calcium in the surface.
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
现在 我们的红酸模已经不多了
Now, we don't have a lot of Red Dock,
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
所以我知道这片地有足够的钙质
so I know this field has enough calcium.
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
所以我知道这片地有足够的钙质
so I know this field has enough calcium.
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
其中的一种方法就是轮作
One way to do it is to use rotation crops.
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
种植一些
Plant actual crops
克拉斯·马顿斯
有机农场主
种植一些
Plant actual crops
在土壤中会产生活跃的微生物群体的作物
that create a lively community of microorganisms in the soil
这将会最终转化成
that will ultimately translate
你会品尝到比在贫瘠土壤中
into your tasting something more delicious
用化学试剂种植的作物 更多的美味可口的味道
than a plant grown in denuded soil in chemicals.
你在种大豆 除了黑麦你最喜欢种大豆?
You're planting soy. You're favoring doing it after rye?
- 是的 就我们看到的来说 - 这就是我们看到的
-Yes, based on what we're seeing. -That's what you're seeing.
你品尝不到美妙的味道
You cannot taste great flavor
除非土壤中具有极富活力的生物群
unless the soil's a fully active biological community,
这其中的原理很难解释
and the mechanics of that are difficult to explain.
我花了大量的时间来研究
I've spent a long time researching.
我和许许多多的人了解过
I've talked to a ton of people.
我们能肯定的是 土壤中的生命越多
All we know for sure is that the more life there is in the soil,
你就越有可能创造出独特的风味
the more potential you have for the creation of flavor.
你必须要坚持在这里轮作
You have to stick to the rotation here
因为你必须要有一种作物
because you have to have a
来恰到好处地衔接它之前的作物
crop following its most suitable predecessor.
有机农场必须这么做
Organic farmers have to do it.
她们必须要把肥力归还给土壤
They have to return that fertility back to the soil.
而我们已有的想法认为
And what we've become accustomed to
他们种植这些作物会亏本
is that they're going to plant these crops at a loss
之后他们会用小麦
and they'll make up the
或者其他我们需要的作物来填补这个差额
difference with a wheat crop or a crop that we covet.
我们应该做的是
What we ought to do is
鼓励他们种植这些轮作作物
be encouraging them to grow these rotation crops