主厨的餐桌（2015）

很难想象我是怎么决定成为一名厨师的
It's hard to imagine how I decided to become a chef at all.
我1982年在新西兰长大
Growing up in New Zealand in 1982,
电视节目里没有大厨
we don't have chefs on television,
杂♥志♥里也找不到有关厨师的文章
we don't have articles written in magazines about chefs,
报纸上更是连美食相关的专栏都没有
we don't have columns in newspapers written about food even.
我成长于这个又小又孤僻的社区
I grew up in this tiny, little isolated community
连个邻居都没有
with hardly any neighbors.
去最近的邻居家也需要15分钟的车程
Well, the nearest neighbor was a 15-minute drive away.
当你家没有电子游戏机
When you don't have video games,
甚至十岁前连台像样的电视机都没有的时候
and you don't have proper television until you're 10 years old,
你就必须要去发掘一些
you have to find all these
能给你带来欢乐 让你发挥创造力的事物
other things to give you joy and to be creative.
当我14岁时
When I was 14,
我在一对兄妹开的小餐厅里做工
I got a job in a small place run by a brother and sister,
餐厅的名字叫停时咖啡店
called the Time Out Cafe.
透过厨房♥墙上开的小窗
From the little cutout in the wall of the kitchen,
我可以看到餐厅内的景象
I could see into the dining room,
看到顾客都在享用我烹饪出的美食
and I could see the customers eat my food.
那种感觉真是无法用语言来形容
It was the most incredible feeling.
我为之沉迷
I was hooked.
舒尔瑞
本·
本集主演
餐桌
大厨的
第五集
墨尔本|澳大利亚
还记得当我第一次来到阿提卡的时候
I can remember the first time when I went to Attica.
我也是绞尽脑汁地在思考
It was like trying to, sort of,
托尼·谭
美食专栏作家，《澳洲美食旅行者》
我也是绞尽脑汁地在思考
It was like trying to, sort of,
这地方到底有什么特别之处
work out what is so special about the place.
托尼·谭
美食专栏作家，《澳洲美食旅行者》
这地方到底有什么特别之处
work out what is so special about the place.
它并不魅力四射
It's not glamorous.
不时还可以听到道路上的公车
Every once in a while, you can hear the neighborhood bus
我是说真的 公车驶过的声音
literally, sort of, driving by.
当你来到一间世界顶级的餐馆
And to eat in a place that is world-class,
你更期待它像好莱坞一样炫目惹眼
you expect something that's a little bit more like Hollywood.
阿提卡是一间小餐馆 价格也不贵
Attica is a small restaurant. It's not an expensive restaurant.
马特·普勒斯顿
评审，2013年世界50家最佳餐厅
阿提卡是一间小餐馆 价格也不贵
Attica is a small restaurant. It's not an expensive restaurant.
马特·普勒斯顿
评审，2013年世界50家最佳餐厅
就坐落在墨尔本城郊处
It's in a suburban part of Melbourne,
马特·普勒斯顿
评审，2013年世界50家最佳餐厅
马特·普勒斯顿
评审，2013年世界50家最佳餐厅
好像和整个世界都格格不入
on, you know, the wrong side of the world.
马特·普勒斯顿
评审，2013年世界50家最佳餐厅
好像和整个世界都格格不入
on, you know, the wrong side of the world.
三份猪肉 一份鸡肉 两份鱼 还有...
There are three pork, one chicken, two fish, then...
二十七号♥桌 猪肉和一份鸡肉
Twenty-seven, pork, one chicken.
有鸡肉做好了吗 好了
Have one chicken ready? Ready.
这里很小 也不是很亮堂
It's small, it's dark.
你一定很费解 这...
You kind of go, "Wait a second,
不可能是全世界最顶级的五十间餐厅之一
this shouldn't be a... top 50 restaurant in the world."
五份马铃薯
Five potato.
丹尼 请准备四份鸡蛋
Four egg, please, Danny.
能给我们拿个大点的碗 好吗 丹尼?
Can we get some slightly larger bowls, please, Danny?
收到
Yeah.
看看本 他并不是你心目中明星大厨的形象
You look at Ben, he's not your celebrity chef,
那些和超模约会
your supermodel-dating,
开着法拉利 穿着帅气皮夹克的明星大厨
Ferrari-driving, leather jacket-wearing chef.
那么问题来了
Question that's asked,
这样一个小餐馆
"Is this small restaurant
真的有能力比肩全世界最顶级的餐厅吗?
as good as the best restaurants in the world?"
如果是问我 我会说
And the answer is, for me,
阿提卡是世界上值得让我穿洋过海
Attica would be one of 20 restaurants
去拜访的二十家餐馆之一
that I would travel to visit if I didn't live here.
但你知道吗 我就住在附近 就在街拐角的地方
But you know what? I live here. It's round the corner.
我为此感到无比自豪
I'm very proud of what it does.
阿提卡
2014年圣佩莱格里诺世界50最
世界最佳餐厅第32名
[墨尔本|澳大利亚]
阿提卡
当你步入餐厅的那一刻
You walk inside the dining room,
2014年圣佩莱格里诺世界50最
世界最佳餐厅第32名
[墨尔本|澳大利亚]
阿提卡
一切的焦点便落在餐桌上
everything is focused on the table,
2014年圣佩莱格里诺世界50最
世界最佳餐厅第32名
[墨尔本|澳大利亚]
阿提卡
2014年圣佩莱格里诺世界50最
世界最佳餐厅第32名
[墨尔本|澳大利亚]
阿提卡
食物在灯光的映衬下熠熠生辉
the light shines on the food.
2014年圣佩莱格里诺世界50最
世界最佳餐厅第32名
[墨尔本|澳大利亚]
阿提卡
2014年圣佩莱格里诺世界50最
世界最佳餐厅第32名
[墨尔本|澳大利亚]
阿提卡
简直就是纯粹的戏剧
It's pure theater.
黄油端了上来 紧接着是面包
The butter arrives, then the bread arrives,
在一切的不经意间
and then before you know it,
这是一种难抵的诱惑
it's like a total seduction
让人品尝一道又一道的菜品
of courses after courses after courses.
你会感觉 这些菜品都被赋予了...
Eating there is like looking at somebody
烹饪者的魂与灵
who has put his soul into the food.
它们在用最曼妙的舞姿在你的味蕾间嬉戏
It plays tricks on your palate in the nicest possible way.
现如今的大厨 已经不仅仅是单纯地在做饭了
A chef these days has gotta be so much more than a cook.
他们运用色彩学 文字 想象 情感
They've gotta use color, language, images, emotion,
赋予食物鲜活的生命
in order to animate what's on the plate.
作为一名作家
And as a writer,
我的工作是试图寻找那些
my job is to try and find
有自己独特见解的人
people who are saying something different,
那些想要表达些什么的人
who've got something to say.
本烹饪的美食如此与众不同
You look at what makes Ben's food special,
因为餐中既有历史 也有故事
there's a history, there's a story,
有关联性 亦有对此地的独特感受
there's a relevance, there's a sense of place.
那么 皮特 这个就是我们的碗
So, Pete, this is gonna be our bowl
我们要让它看上去就像...
that we wanna make it look as if it...
就像刚刚从田野中收来的一样
was just, kind of, cut from the field.
所以我们要在叶片的四周喷些露珠
So, you want that dew on those leaves here,
但不要往中心喷
but we don't want it in the center
那样会冲淡卷心菜的香气 明白吗
where it can dilute the cabbage too much, all right?
实验厨房♥|阿提卡
"波伦亚卷心菜" 开♥发♥阶段
实验厨房♥|阿提卡
好了 下面 我们把菜心放回来
Okay, so, we put these back in here
就好像它从未被取出过一样
like it was never disturbed.
我们就这样端着它给顾客
This gets carried out.
把它直接放到餐桌上 就像这样
We put that straight on the table, like that.
紧接着端上这两只碗
And then those two bowls come out,
但我们还要决定一下更钟爱这两种之中的哪一个
but we'd have to decide on which we prefer out of those two.
在阿提卡 我们只想做忠于我们内心的事
At Attica, we only want to do things that are true to ourselves.
看到这些卷心菜
I had these cabbages
我马上有了种来到波伦亚似的感觉
and then I had these feelings around Bolognese.
它是从我的家庭食谱中延伸过来的
It was a family dish growing up.
我想用制♥作♥波伦亚的技术
I wanted to use that kind of technique
去演变出一些新的东西
of making a Bolognese to make something new
也许它其实与波伦亚并无关联
that didn't actually relate to Bolognese in any way,
但是仍让我为之欣喜的东西
but still made me feel kind of good.
由做波伦亚开始着手
You start by making a Bolognese,
之后 这条路根本行不通
and then, that doesn't really work.
它不够精致 不够美味
It's not refined enough, it's not delicious enough,
之后皮特说 "那么 不如我们来挤压波伦亚
and then Pete says, "Well, why don't we press the Bolognese
只留下它的汤汁怎么样?"
and just use the juice of the Bolognese?"
然后就这样自然而然地发生了
And this happens organically.
我们不再去单纯地复♥制♥妈妈的食谱
We're not trying to replicate our mother's cuisine,
但这里面确实有些情意满满而又令人满足的东西
but there's something that is soulful and is fulfilling.