主厨的餐桌（2015）

大厨的
餐桌
第三集
彼得·卡明斯基
美食评论家，《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》
迷迭香
烤蜜桔
香烤
胡萝卜
香烤
水果
岛上|拉布拉达湖，巴塔哥尼亚
巴塔哥尼亚 烤全羊
溪水鳟鱼
佐安第斯南瓜
小屋|加尔松，乌拉圭
布宜诺斯艾利斯|阿根廷
巴塔哥尼亚南部餐厅|布宜诺斯艾利斯
亚历克茜娅·玛尔曼
弗朗西斯的女儿
马铃薯
多米诺
古兰多 (巴塔哥尼亚坑式料理)
古兰多 (巴塔哥尼亚坑式料理)
何塞伊格纳西奥|乌拉圭
蒜香白酒焖
贻贝
盐烤三文鱼
佐蒜泥蛋黄酱
铁板灼煎 瑶柱
安第斯南瓜 佐山羊奶酪
意式蜜汁
烤鸡
我以前经常搭便车从学校回家
I used to hitchhike back home from school.
有个人开着他漂亮的汽车会路过
This man who had a beautiful car would drive by,
所以我等着他
so I waited for him.
我会坐在后座 我那时八岁
I would sit in the back. I was eight.
而且车上总是有一位不同的女士坐在他身边
And there was always a different lady by him.
在搭了那么多便车之后 有一天 其中的一个姑娘
One day after so much hitchhiking, you know, one of the girls
跟我说 "来家里喝杯茶吧"
said to me, "Come home for tea."
当我走上甲板时 正有两位女士
And when I walked onto the deck, there was these two ladies
在裸晒日光浴
taking sun naked.
然后 她们就说 "噢!你来啦
And, you know, they said, "Oh! Here you are.
想要喝点什么?"
What would you like to drink?"
你知道的 她们毫不遮掩
You know, they didn't cover themselves or--
她们是法国人
You know, they were French.
这所有的情景都让我向往着
And all those things made me dream, you know,
大千世界中某处会有那么一片自♥由♥的净土
that there was a very free world somewhere.
所以从很小的时候起自♥由♥就是我最大的向往
So my big draw in life since very young was freedom.
那种让我只信任自己
The freedom of believing only in myself
并且不让自己被任何人领导的自♥由♥
and not letting myself being, you know, sort of, led by anybody.
我想做我自己 我想做自己想做的任何事
I wanted to be my own. I wanted to do whatever I wanted.
由弗朗西斯·玛尔曼掌勺的盛宴
A meal by Francis Mallmann,
不论是在乡间的一次特别活动中
whether it's a special event that he does in the countryside
还是在他的餐厅里
or it's in one of his restaurants,
都从视觉上开始
starts with visual.
当你走进去时 你就会知道自己正处于一个
You enter it and you know you're in some place that's been
在视觉上经过精心策划的地方
orchestrated with a sensual eye.
你会置身于一个精心布置的美丽
You're set up with this beautiful,
充满艺术氛围的场景中
art-directed scene,
然后 忽然之间
and then, bam,
非常浓烈的香味就出来了
really powerful, strong flavors.
对于味道和氛围
He really has perfect pitch
以及人们想要体验的感觉
when it comes to taste, and ambience,
他真的有很完美的把握
and how people want to be made to feel.
他尤其浪漫
He's extremely romantic.
他喜爱色彩
He likes color,
喜好丰盛 喜欢强烈的感官体验
he likes lushness, he likes strong, sensual experiences.
弗朗西斯非常与众不同
Francis is quite different
他并不会被一家餐厅所定义
in that he's not defined by a restaurant.
他经营了若干家餐厅
He has a number of restaurants.
每一家都截然不同
Every one of them is different.
弗朗西斯同样也写书
Francis also does books.
过去的三十年里他写过不少
He's done many of them over the course of 30 years
而且那期间他还一直活跃在电视荧幕中
and he's been on television all that time.
他是拉丁界最大的美食明星
He's the biggest food star in the Latin world.
哪里不同寻常 他的节目就会办到哪里
His shows are set wherever the will-o'-the-wisp takes him.
他真的会走进野外
He really goes out into the wild,
走进遥远偏僻的地方去发现它们
into the far-flung places to discover them
让观众也跟着他一起发掘
and have his audience discover them with him.
要想去弗朗西斯在巴塔哥尼亚的小岛
To get to Francis' island in Patagonia,
得驱车经过一条100英里的土路
you drive 100 miles down a dirt road.
接着便会到达湖岸
Then you get to the shore of this lake
群山屹立在它对岸
and the mountains that rise on the other side.
山势渐高
And those mountains go up,
如果想从山坡的另一面下 你就会到达智利
and if you would go down the opposite slope, you'd be in Chile.
所以它可以说是阿根廷的尽头
So it's the very end of Argentina.
然后你登上一艘阿帆 就是一个充气艇
And you get in an Avon, an inflatable craft,
再花一个小时穿过这个湖
and you go an hour across the lake.
就会到达这个湖心小岛
And then you get to this little island in the middle of a lake.
我曾到过许多地方 此处最为偏僻
There's no place more remote that I've ever been on Earth.
我觉得我对巴塔哥尼亚的情感
The feeling of Patagonia, I feel,
是扎根在内心最深处对家的感情
is my deepest rooted feeling for home.
我7岁时第一次来到巴塔哥尼亚
I arrived to Patagonia age seven,
那一刻我就爱上了它
and I fell in love with it.
爱上这片土地是一个很长的过程
It's a land that you learn to love very slowly.
慢慢的 你会开始理解它的轻风 它的暴雨...
You start to understand its winds, the storms...
以及它的孤独
the solitude.
一旦你理解了它的样子 你便会开始爱上它
And once you understand how she is, you start to love her.
我们曾住在巴塔哥尼亚的一个偏远房♥子里
We lived in a faraway house in Patagonia
和我的兄弟与亲人们住一起
with my brothers and my family.
当时火对我们的家至关重要
And our house was ruled by fire.
热水装置
The heating of the water and
以及房♥间的取暖装置都靠火
the heating system of the house was with fire
有点像我们现如今在这个美丽的小岛上的情况
and that's a bit what we have now here on this beautiful island.
仿佛重返了童年时代
It's going back to those times of childhood.
我是一名厨师
I'm a cook that uses cooking
我用厨艺来传达这种生活方式
to send this message of a way of living.
我常常在偏远的地方烹调 在野外用火做饭
I'm always cooking in remote places, in the wild with fires.
所以我的方式就是离开你的座椅
So my message is get out of your chair,
离开你的沙发 离开你的办公室
of your sofa, of your office
走出去
and go out.
对 就那里
还有那里
那里
当你用火来烹饪时
When you cook with fires,
当你生火时
when you build a fire,
与做♥爱♥有几分相似
it's a bit like making love.
它可以很凶猛很强烈
It could be huge, strong.
也可以从灰烬中和小块煤炭里慢慢升腾
Or it could grow very slowly in ashes and little coals.
这就是火的最美的所在
And that's the biggest beauty of fire.
它的力量从至弱到至强
It goes from zero to 10 in strength,
在这之中
and in between zero and 10,
有这些不同的火焰
you have all these little
和不同的方法烹饪供你利用
peaks and different ways of cooking with it
它也可以非常柔软 非常脆弱
and it's very tender and very fragile.
奥古斯丁 你那边还好吗?
还好
如果有情况发生 就丢下这破玩意儿 让它烧就行了
别担心
弗朗西斯喜爱烧过的东西
Francis loves burned things.
并不是要烧焦的 就是烧过的
Not carbonized, just burned,
然后就可以得到这种被人们称为美拉德(一种化学反应)外壳的美妙东西
so it's just got this wonderful, what they call Maillard crust.
在其他餐厅会害你被解雇的东西
What would get you fired in another restaurant,
反而会让弗朗西斯对你的技艺着迷
will make Francis fall in love with your technique.
当你烤东西 或者用煎烤盘煎东西的时候
Whenever you grill or you cook something in a griddle,
必须对初次接触心怀敬意
you have to be very respectful of that first contact.
假设这是块牛排 我这样看着它
If this is a steak for me and I look at it
然后说 "好吧 这块牛排要煎九分钟"
and I say, "Well, I'm gonna cook it for nine minutes."
我会把牛排搁锅里 煎六分钟
I'll put it there, leave it there for six minutes
然后在最后三分钟时候翻个面
and then turn it for the last three,
因为煎牛排时候会发生的是
because what happens is that,
当你把牛排放到烧热的烤盘表面上时
when you put it in a surface which is hot,
牛排马上会粘住受热的表面
the first thing it does, it's gonna stick to it.
但是渐渐地 牛排表面会形成一层脆脆外壳
But slowly it will make this crusty layer
于是你就可以在不损坏牛排形状的前提下移♥动♥它
and you will be able to move it without breaking it.
我不赞成粗暴地对待食物
I don't believe in flip-and-flopping food.
你必须尊重你所烹调的食物
You have to respect what you cook.
当在室外给大型聚会烹饪时
When we cook outside for big parties,
我通常会带很多帮手
I usually have a lot of staff.