主厨的餐桌（2015）

我喜欢邀请一大帮吉普赛厨师
I like to have a band of gypsy chefs.
我们叫他们玛埃斯特兰萨 一个很美丽的西班牙词语
We call it maestranza, which is a beautiful word in Spanish.
玛埃斯特兰萨的意思是"在你身边帮助你的人"
Maestranza means "The people who are around you helping."
听起来很浪漫
It's very romantic.
年复一年 你创造出一个和你一同工作的团队
Over the years, you create a team that works with you,
对你知之甚详
who know you very well
也知道你所追求的梦想
and know what the dreams are.
我们是一个...
We are a team that...
不断辗转的团队
rolls constantly.
我们今天在这里烹饪
We are cooking here today,
下个礼拜我们可能就会是在纽约街头
next week we'll being cooking in the street in New York.
总有一份力量推动着我们坚持下去
There's an energy that rolls with us.
外界的人们被其吸引
People from the outside get attracted to it.
我不喜欢接收有经验的厨师
I don't like taking chefs who have any experience.
我们从各个餐厅接纳那些
We take young apprentices in all the restaurants
没有任何烹饪经验的学徒
who have never cooked anywhere
教导他们
and we teach them.
十个人之中会有一人成为领导者 实干家
So out of 10, there is one who becomes a leader, the doer.
这就是我最欣赏的精神
That's a spirit I like in my team.
我很享受和整支队伍一起工作的快乐
I love the joy of working with all the team.
我需要跟他们快乐的相处
I need to be happy with them.
工作越是艰苦
There has to be a festive
就越需要我们在其中发现乐趣
feeling about the hard work we're doing.
我最喜欢的事情之一
也经常跟弗朗西斯说的
就是我们可以在新鲜的自然环境中工作
因为我们在自然中工作
我们的工作环境总有风的陪伴
有雨的滋润
也有雪的问候
弗朗西斯有一种力量能使别人
实现想法 同时也完成着他自己的梦想
这向我很好的诠释了一切皆有可能
这就是我愿意继续跟他一起工作的原因
我们已经喝了三瓶酒了
"你可曾在置身旷野 踟蹰徘徊?
"Have you wandered in the wilderness,
或是在绵延群山之中驰骋狂奔?
have you galloped over the ranges,
你可曾头顶骄阳 漫步旱地?
have you roamed the arid sun-lands through and through?
或是在山间平台 细细琢磨?
Have you chummed up with the mesa?
你知道它的脾性和变化吗?
Do you know its moods and changes?
没有的话 请倾听自然的声音 它在呼唤着你
Then listen to the Wild, it's calling you."
我出生在布宜诺斯艾利斯 随后搬到了巴塔哥尼亚
I was born in Buenos Aires and we came to Patagonia
因为我的父亲找到了一份在原子能中心的工作
because my father was offered a job in an atomic center.
他是个物理学家
He's a physicist.
那就是我童年的起点
That's where my childhood started,
在巴塔哥尼亚中部的巴里洛切
in Bariloche, in the middle of Patagonia.
我13岁时被一段音乐打动
I got hit by this wave of
就此改变了我的人生
music when I was 13 and that changed my life.
有一天 一家子澳大利亚姑娘转学到了我们学校
One day, a family of Australian girls moved into the school.
四个姑娘开始放门基乐队的音乐
The four of them put on a record of The Monkees,
然后站在桌子上开始跳舞
and they started dancing on top of a low table.
天哪 我从来没见过这景象! 我从来没听过那音乐
God, I never had seen that! I never heard that music.
那是我第一次在血液深处
That was the first time I felt in my blood,
在我的血管中 灵魂中感受到
in my veins, in my soul
这世界正在发生着什么
what was happening in the world.
在那段音乐 那段舞蹈震撼到我之后
After that music hit me and that movement hit me,
我知道那是唯一能让我感兴趣的东西
that was the only thing that interested me.
于是我离开了学校
And I left school.
我父亲完全不能理解这场
My dad didn't understand very much at all, really,
上世纪六十年代末到七十年代
the revolution that happened
发生在年轻人身上的革命
in the late '60s and '70s with young people.
他完全不能理解我们的留长发 花衬衫
He just didn't understand our long hairs, our flower shirts,
粉色条纹裤子
our striped pink pants,
还有带跟的靴子
our boots with heels.
他认为这些有关摇滚的一切都是灾难
He thought that this rock-and-roll thing was a disaster.
他完全接受无能
He couldn't cope with it.
但是我很执着于我的自♥由♥
But I was very stubborn about my freedom.
我会晚上躺在床上
I was able to lie on my
想象着我需要的一切
bed at night and dream about what I wanted.
我知道我就是我 我知道我应该为我自己而做决定
I knew that I was myself and that I had to decide for myself.
在阿根廷的科尔多瓦有一种烹饪方法
There is a technique in the province of Córdoba in Argentina
把一块肉包在泥巴里
where you wrap a piece of meat in really cream mud
然后放进木头搭的烤炉里
and then you put it in a wood oven.
这是一种非常非常古老的料理方式
It's a very, very old technique of cooking.
如果你绕着湖走上一圈
Here, if you go all around the lake,
你会找到这种超棒的粘土
you find this beautiful, beautiful clay.
我想 "天哪
I thought, "God, this
这粘土一定是用来烤鱼的完美材料"
clay must be very good to cook a fish in it."
当粘土变热 很热很热之后
When the clay starts to get hot, really hot,
鱼里的湿气会试图从中蒸发出来
the humidity of the fish will try to leave that space,
但因为鱼被严严实实的包裹着 所以湿气无法蒸发
but it can't because it's completely encased.
于是你就得到了史上最棒的清蒸鱼
So what you get is a most beautiful steamed fish,
我喜欢烤得有点点生
and I like to cook it slightly raw...
让它不会熟得太过
so it's not overdone.
没有比把鱼烤得太过更心酸的了
There's nothing more sad than an overcooked fish.
你可以多烤一会儿 这样鱼肉和刺就会完全分离了
You can cook it longer and it will just completely detach.
但是我觉得烤鱼的美妙之处就在于其微温的
But I think that the beauty is it's lukewarm
烹饪过的鱼肉但仍然粘在鱼骨上
and it's cooked but still attached to the bone
因为这样你就可以在吃的时候
because you feel all the
感受到鱼的品质
quality of the fish when you eat it then.
我开了我的第一家餐厅
When I started my first restaurant on my own,
当我十九岁的时候
I was 19.
当时我做的阿根廷菜
I was doing some recipes of Argentina.
我有一些书 你懂的
And I had some books, you know,
都是很棒的关于烹饪的书
I had some very good books on cooking
我一直都在研究这些书...
and I was always trying to learn and that...
我想这就是吸引我去法国的原因吧
Mostly that was what attracted me to France.
我读到的都是关于法国的
Everything I read was about France.
所有那些的法国食谱 佐料
All the French recipes, the ingredients,
龙嵩叶(调味香料) 马德拉白葡萄酒
and the tarragon, and the Madeira wine,
都是我在巴塔哥尼亚很难找到的
things that were very difficult for me to find in Patagonia,
但是我开始幻想这些
but I started dreaming about them
想着我可以去法国 真正接触 品尝 烹饪法国菜
and I wanted to go and touch them, taste them and use them.
于是我决定去法国
And I decide to go to France.
我本以为我可以
I thought that I would
直接跑到法国 敲开一扇门
arrive in Paris and I would knock on the door,
然后主人会说 "好的 请进
and somebody would say, "Yes, please come in.
我们会教你怎么做菜"
We're gonna teach you how to cook."
但是我哪儿都没找到工作
But I didn't achieve to work anywhere,
你知道的 我找不到 我在哪都找不到一份工作
you know, I couldn't. I couldn't get work anywhere.
所以我决定给所有法国的
And then I decided to write a letter
米其林三星餐厅写一封信
to all the three-star restaurants in France,
那时候... 一共有21家
which in that year it was... There were 21 of them.
令人惊讶的是所有的餐厅都回复了
And incredibly enough all of them answered.
有些拒绝了我 但也有些同意接受我
Maybe many of them said no, but many of them said yes.
我开始在所有这些聘用我的三星餐厅工作
And I started working in all these three-star restaurants.
弗朗西斯非常幸运
Francis was very lucky
这种赌博般的方式
in the way he was able to parlay that
让他得以为最棒的三星厨师工作
into working for some of the greatest three-star chefs.
在法国顶级的餐厅里工作
Working in the great restaurants of France,
让弗朗西斯学到技术
the thing that Francis learned was technique.
尽管他的烹饪方式与精致相去甚远
Even though he uses these very primitive methods of cooking,
他的技术仍旧
the techniques are very much
深受远在欧洲的法国餐厅的影响
influenced by the great French restaurants of Europe.
我曾对法国的文化和食物
It was a very passionate love affair
抱有这种强烈的热情和激♥情♥
with the culture of France and its food.
是
Sí.
过来 埃洛伊莎
- 过来 宝贝 - 爸爸?
维妮娜 我和她有个女儿
Vanina, with whom I have a daughter,
但我们不住在一起
we don't live together.
一个月中我们大概有十天呆在一起 这样挺好的
We spend about 10 days of the month together, which is very nice.
我们也都很喜欢这样的相处方式 我们不想住在一起
And we both love it. We don't want to live together.
爱情是生活中最复杂的东西
Love is one of the most difficult things in life.
当然也是最美妙的
Certainly the most beautiful one.
别把杯子摔了啊
再来一次
现在我们来喝一小口
不