主厨的餐桌（2015）

山丘之王
蓝色山丘证明了农场餐厅可以在曼哈顿的摩天大楼之间发展
乔纳森·戈尔德撰写
他在我们认清自己之前肯定了我们
He defined us before we really knew who we were.
山丘之王
蓝色山丘证明了农场餐厅可以在曼哈顿的摩天大楼之间发展
乔纳森·戈尔德撰写
他在我们认清自己之前肯定了我们
He defined us before we really knew who we were.
他称我们为 从农场到餐桌模式新的缩影
He named us the new epitome of farm-to-table,
农场定位的
他称我们为 从农场到餐桌模式新的缩影
He named us the new epitome of farm-to-table,
以一个农场命名的
他称我们为 从农场到餐桌模式新的缩影
He named us the new epitome of farm-to-table,
以一个农场命名的
一个不惮以
a restaurant that was not shy
以一个农场命名的
当季势在必行的
一个不惮以
a restaurant that was not shy
当季势在必行的
最大程度发掘食物真正的味道的餐馆
about advertising a product that was at the height of its flavor.
当季势在必行的
原始的静谧
最大程度发掘食物真正的味道的餐馆
about advertising a product that was at the height of its flavor.
意外的高雅
最大程度发掘食物真正的味道的餐馆
about advertising a product that was at the height of its flavor.
柔软香嫩
最大程度发掘食物真正的味道的餐馆
about advertising a product that was at the height of its flavor.
微妙的味道
最大程度发掘食物真正的味道的餐馆
about advertising a product that was at the height of its flavor.
永恒的
最大程度发掘食物真正的味道的餐馆
about advertising a product that was at the height of its flavor.
永恒的
我们却仿佛对这一说法并不吃惊
It's not as if that idea was a foreign concept to us.
永恒的
我们却仿佛对这一说法并不吃惊
It's not as if that idea was a foreign concept to us.
我们的蓝色山丘 是以一家家庭农场命名的
We opened Blue Hill, naming after a family farm.
但听到那些评价的人想来这里工作
But people who read the review wanted to work here
是因为这个想法很有发展空间
'cause it was an up and coming idea.
有一点很重要
That was very important,
那就是想要携带信息向前的兴趣层次
the level of interest in wanting to carry a message forward.
肉汤请浇在 额 蘑菇上
Broth for, uh, mushroom here, please.
嘿 再来一个鸡蛋 谢谢
Hey, one new egg, please.
好的 肉汤
Okay, broth, yeah.
很忙吗?
Is that on the go?
23号♥桌两个鸡蛋
Make two eggs going to 23.
正在弄肉汤了 23号♥的鸡蛋
Getting on that broth. Eggs, 23.
上菜 54号♥
Pick up. Uh, 54.
丹...很意识地成为了
Dan... became the voice
"从家庭到农场"运动的代言人
of the "Farm-to-table" Movement very consciously.
他根据节令烹饪
He cooks with the seasons.
用当天的原料做菜
He uses what comes from the farm today.
从农场到餐桌 正是应用当季的食材
Farm-to-table is exactly what's in season right then.
- 一级皮诺酒 - 一级皮诺酒 好的
-First of the Crispino. -First of the Crispino, yes.
从温室到21号♥桌
From the greenhouse to 21.
好的 大厨
Yes, Chef.
只是一种古老的吃法
It's an old way of eating.
我是说 这是我们祖先的吃法
I mean, it's the way our ancestors ate
直到第一台冰箱和航♥空♥运输的出现
until there was refrigeration and air-freight,
但我们却将这种吃法完全颠覆了
but we've completely turned that on its head
从20到21世纪 我们觉得
in the 20th and 21st centuries where we just think,
"世界就是我们的牡蛎
"The world is our oyster.
任何时候我们都能得到自己想要的
We can have everything we want all the time,
味道怎么样都无所谓"
and it doesn't matter how good it tastes."
我们是移♥民♥♥国♥ 当我们初来之时
We're a nation of immigrants, and when we came here,
没人见过如此物博地大
we had abundance like no one had ever seen.
想象一下若是踏足伊甸园
Imagine entering the Garden of Eden.
梦寐以求之物随处可见
You've got everything you could ever dream of.
为何还要费心研究烹饪呢
Why become a culture of great cooking
明明就有取之不尽的
when you have the abundance to
原料做牛排 还有吃之不竭的肉
make steaks and eat tremendous amounts of meat?
但是世上最伟大的
But most of the greatest
美食来自于困境
cuisines of the world came out of hardship.
人们被迫
They were all forced into a
在农业和美景间权衡
negotiation between peasants and a landscape,
而美景也并不会有不竭的供给
and that landscape was not producing the abundance
就如我们所提到的美国的地大物博那般
that we associate with American abundance.
因为从来就没有出现过问题
That was never a problem here,
所以我们不会去弄那些
and so we didn't adopt
费时费力 却不那么让人垂涎的肉
the more difficult, less-coveted cuts of meat
或是多样化的谷物蔬菜 因为没有必要
or varieties of vegetables and grains because we didn't need to.
这真是我们历史的悲哀
That's a real tragedy of our history.
你手上拿着如今的美国菜系菜单
You have the recipe for what is American cuisine today,
但它却算不上真正的菜系
which isn't really a cuisine.
不那么好的食材充斥其中
Not great ingredients in large abundance,
这就是... 这就是故事的全部
that's sort of... that's the story.
你们是怎么解决的? 你们怎么避开这个问题的?
How do you get out of that? How do you get away from that?
丹对此的看法是
What Dan has understood is,
不管你的技术有多先进
it doesn't matter how good your technique is,
如果你的食材不够好 你就做不出好的食物
if you don't have good ingredients, you can't make good food.
我可不是激进份子
I'm not an activist. You know,
我不会把这一点印在我的名片上
I wouldn't put that on my business card.
但我逐渐理解
But what I've come to understand,
却还没发现
and I have yet to find
有什么例子违背了这一点
any example that flies in the face of this,
当你追求最好的味道时
that when you are chasing after the best flavor,
其实是在追求最好的食材
you are chasing after the best ingredients,
而当你求最好的食材时
and when you're chasing after the best ingredients,
其实是在寻找好的耕作方式
you are in search of great farming.
蓝色山丘农场|伯克郡，马塞诸塞州
我的奶奶常常谈起
My grandmother often talked about
70年代蓝色山丘动人的美丽
the mesmerizing beauty of Blue Hill Farm in the 1960s.
太阳静静悬在天空 太美了
With the sun over here, this is beautiful.
每到夏天 我最喜欢的就是呆在农场
Every summer, all I wanted to do was be at the farm.
我还记得在田野里努力的劳作 而且时间很长
I remember working really hard in the fields, really long hours,
要扛一捆捆很重的干草 放进谷仓里
and lifting heavy bales of hay and loading them into the barn,
但我觉得自己很享受这一过程
and I found it very exhilarating to be a part of that.
这是一种有目标导向的工作
It's very purpose-driven work.
我记得大概花了 呃
Remember it took, like,
三周的时间吧 就这么一项工作 两块地
three weeks to do just this, these two fields.
我奶奶接手农场的时候
When my grandmother took over the farm,
她就知道得在草地上养奶牛
she understood that you needed to have cows on the land
这样草地就可以通过牛身上得到营养
to get the nutrients from the cows
进而长出好的草 最后才能得到好的干草
and produce good grass, which ended up being good hay.
但她去世后
But when she died,
整整二十年我们没有
we had 20 years of no animals
在草地上养过一只动物 但每年都会收干草
on the land and a yearly haying operation...
结果 我们只能看着蓝色山丘农场产值大幅度缩小
and we ended up seeing a wholesale decline in Blue Hill Farm.
大家都觉得 这里再不会有牧场了
There was a sense that there wasn't gonna be pasture,
再也不能回到记忆中那样了
it wasn't gonna look like anything we had remembered,
如果我们什么也不做
if we didn't do something.
我和我兄弟想的是
My brother and I were thinking,
"我们该怎样才能守护好我奶奶想要守护的
"How do we preserve what my grandmother wanted to preserve,
也就是这块开阔的景观呢
which is open landscape,
我们怎样才能该让农场 让这片乡村风景有所产出呢
and how do we make the farm and the landscape productive?"
我们需要的是动物
What was needed was animals.
因此 奶制品是很好的切入点
And so, dairy was a great way to think about that.
而如果我想要优质奶 我就要支持
And if I want great milk, I have to support
牧场的不断改善
the continuing improvement of the pasture.
嗯 现在我们就从养鸡着手了
Well, now we're in the chicken business.
因为有什么好方法能
Because what better way
分解奶牛粪肥
to break up the manure from these dairy cows
并且让其四处分散? 鸡
and spread it in the fields? Chickens.
好 如果开始养鸡
Okay, we're in the chicken
我们就会有很多鸡蛋
business and we're getting lots of eggs.
但现在有个很严重的问题 其实到处都是问题
But there is a serious problem, as there always is,
就是入侵的森林
with encroaching forest.
我们被郁郁葱葱的森林包围着
We're surrounded by dense, thick forest
并且这些森林在不断地试图向着这片田蚕食
that continually wants to encroach on the field.
我们该怎么退林还耕呢? 山羊
And so how do we push it back? Goats.
山羊会吃掉这些奶牛不吃的荆棘
Goats will eat this bramble, the things that cows won't eat,
这样 突然 我们也有了山羊产业